When you examine the map and peruse the National Scenic Route of Helgeland, an absolute must to drive along, you might begin to realise that the vastness of Norway necessitates making choices. The country is incredibly expansive and teeming with highlights. In this article, I aim to introduce you to Helgeland—a region that I believe is underrated and a splendid alternative to the tourist-saturated Lofoten. By the end of this piece, I hope you will know:
What to expect along the 500km long Helgeland coast
Which highlights should not be missed
The accommodations that make me yearn to return to this illustrious region at any time
What to expect along the Helgeland coast
As mentioned, the Helgeland coast stretches approximately 500km, with the National Scenic Route covering around 400km. This route takes you through a diverse landscape that is spectacular without exception.
Expect dramatic rock formations rising from the sea, stunning islands with pristine white beaches, charming fishing villages, and fantastic hiking opportunities. Whether you are travelling by campervan or prefer camping, this expansive coastal area is well-suited for both. The best part is that few tourists choose this region over Lofoten, making it wonderfully tranquil and unspoiled.
This isn’t because Helgeland is any less spectacular, but because various search engine algorithms assume everyone wants to visit Lofoten, leading to the islands being overrun during peak season. Add to that a slew of influencers who fail to look beyond the obvious, and you have a recipe for mass tourism. So off you go to the Helgeland coast!
Highlights
Islands
The first highlight, in my opinion, is the beautiful islands accessible by ferry. I spent several days on Vega and found it hard to leave. The natural beauty is breathtaking, and there's plenty to do for outdoor enthusiasts. Other islands you shouldn’t miss are Lovund, Dønna, and Herøy. In fact, any island with a ferry connection is worth visiting. Be sure to check ferry schedules in advance. Relying solely on Google Maps might lead you to believe a journey takes three hours, only for it to take a whole day because Google doesn’t account for ferry schedules accurately.
Caves
Torghatten in Brønnøysund is an absolute must-see. This spectacular cave cuts through a mountain, allowing you to walk from one side to the other. The cave itself resembles a cathedral in size, akin to the Sagrada Familia. The climb is via a beautifully constructed staircase, built by a team of Sherpas who used their incredible strength and craftsmanship to create it. Truly impressive. Other must-see caves include Grønligrotta, Øyfjellgrotta, and Setergrotta.
Hikes
The number of hiking opportunities is too vast to describe here. I recommend visiting ut.no for detailed information on the myriad trails available. My personal favourites include:
A hike to Rabothytta, a public cabin managed by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT). It is one of the most spectacular public huts, offering views over a stunning alpine landscape and an awe-inspiring glacier.
The Vega stairs, one of the longest wooden stair constructions in the world. Take a large bottle of water for the climb, and once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Helgeland coast and the fresh breeze from the Atlantic Ocean.
In an era of alarming climate change, environmental activists worldwide hold ceremonies to commemorate the vanishing glaciers. It is a poignant experience to visit a glacier, knowing that future generations might not have the opportunity. Helgeland boasts a superb array of glaciers, including Okstindbreen, Engabreen, Vestre Svartisen, Sulitjelmaisen, and Blåmannsisen. A word of caution: never venture onto a glacier alone or without a guide. Always book a trip with an experienced guide to ensure everyone’s safety.
Food and Drink
Here again, the options are plentiful, so I’ll highlight a few spots where I had the pleasure of dining or enjoying a coffee. These are often places you might drive past, as they aren’t always prominent.
When waiting for the ferry in Forvik (which can take 20-30 minutes), have a coffee at Forvik Handelsstedet. They roast their own coffee beans. I had a coconut latte-drinkety-winkety that was incredible. The coffee shop itself is a blend of craftsmanship, nostalgia, and coastal romance. They also offer accommodation and serve a local specialty, boknafisk!
For a delightful lunch, visit Helgeland Kolonial in Sandnessjøen. It’s the cosiest and best spot for lunch or dinner. I had a fantastic fish soup and had to return the next day for some delicious paninis to take on my hike to Rabothytta. They also serve Villbrygg, an excellent non-alcoholic Norwegian drink, which speaks volumes about their taste.
In Brønnøysund, while looking at the crystal-clear sea, you might see a large school of fish. Northern Norway boasts some of the best fishing waters in the world, and much of this fish is on the menu at Svang, an excellent restaurant with outstanding dishes and service.
To Elise from Marius is a must-visit for gourmet food enthusiasts. It is arguably the best restaurant along the entire Helgeland coast. Though I couldn’t indulge due to budget constraints, critics agree that this restaurant is a destination in itself and critics are always right...
Additionally, I recommend keeping the Hanen map handy. Hanen is an organisation representing food-producing farmers and agritourism. These farms often have fantastic shops offering high-quality products. If you see the Hanen logo during your road trip, it’s almost mandatory to stop and explore.
Accommodation
Choosing where to stay depends greatly on the type of holiday you aim for. Given the vastness of the area, it’s challenging to provide recommendations for every category. Nonetheless, here are five diverse accommodations that I would gladly return to at any moment in time:
Lovund Hotell: A tiny island known for its large puffin colony, breathtaking surroundings, and unique island life. The rooms offer stunning views of the rugged coastline, making it hard to believe it's real. The hotel itself is world-class, with excellent service and a superb breakfast.
Sjøgata in Mosjøen: This area takes you back to when it was an isolated trading post. The perfectly preserved wooden houses and warehouses are historical treasures. Some of these charming houses, as part of Kulturverkstedet, are available for stays, and Mosjøen serves as an excellent base for exploring the mountains and nearby glaciers.
Base Camp Vega: A must-stay for outdoor enthusiasts. You’ll stay in rudimentary birdhouses with breathtaking views of the azure sea and towering rock formations. It’s the perfect base for exploring the UNESCO-protected beauty of Vega.
Støtt: Possibly one of the most unique accommodations along the Helgeland coast. This location is steeped in local culture and history, making a lasting impression. It’s also a kayaking paradise.
Helgeland Havhus: For an immersive Helgeland experience, consider the Havhus. Imagine a modernistic floating island surrounded by beautiful flora and fauna. Here, your heart rate drops immediately as you inhale the fresh sea air in the morning. This unique accommodation is in high demand, so book well in advance!
As this was just a beginners guide, I hope I managed to convince you to consider Helgeland before falling for the beaten tracks of Lofoten. Believe me, Helgeland offers an array of experiences that rival those of the famed Lofoten, with the added benefit of tranquillity and the absence of massive crowds. Go, go, go!