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Destination: Cruise ships; an environmental disaster. Here's a better way to explore Norway


A cruise ship in Norway
Photo by Steinar Engeland on Unsplash

As the title kind of reveals; I'm not much of a fan of cruise ships. Let me elaborate a bit.

Massive quantities of wastewater, encompassing sewage, greywater, and bilge water, pose significant threats to marine life if inadequately treated or illegally dumped. Then there's waste. Cruise ships generate colossal volumes of waste, including plastic and surplus food from their lavish buffets, thereby exacerbating oceanic pollution and jeopardising marine ecosystems. In addition to waste, cruise ships emit a whole lot of harmful substances such as sulfur oxides, nitrogen oxides and carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.


To be frank; Europe's cruise ships together emit just as much greenhouse gasses as a billion passenger cars according to this scientific report. Wait, what? Not to mention the chemical waste being blended with bunkerfuel and used in most sea-going vessels.


Since many visitors to Norway come specifically to admire its extraordinary and rare flora and fauna, it is extra disturbing to think that marine life faces a massive disturbance from underwater noise generated by ship engines and sonar equipment, which disrupts communication, navigation, and feeding patterns of cetaceans such as whales and dolphins. And, a bit less of an obvious problem; the ballast water exchanged by cruise ships can introduce invasive species to new habitats, thereby disturbing indigenous ecosystems.


Despite the existence of international regulations aimed at addressing these issues, enforcement often proves inconsistent. Many cruise ships operate under flags of convenience (e.g., Nassau, Liberia, Panama, Marshall Islands), jurisdictions known for lenient environmental and labor standards, enabling cruise companies to reduce costs and evade stringent regulations. The crew below deck often labour under severe conditions, all so that passengers can indulge themselves abundantly.


I think you've got the nature of my sentiment; I find it rather immoral to book a cruise. But fear not! Instead, I suggest a more environmentally friendly way to explore Norway.


An epic road trip by electric car


For the most breathtaking panoramas far more spectaculair and diverse compared to those you get from your deckchair, the Norwegian Scenic Roads are a must. When planning your itinerary in Norway, it is advisable to follow these routes. Their unique character encompasses rugged coastlines, enchanting deep fjords, and picturesque forests alongside lower-lying areas. Along these routes, you'll find numerous carefully marked stops, often designed by Norwegian architects, offering essential amenities such as restrooms and seating. Each stop is worth a pause, providing either a splendid view or a historical landmark. My top three routes are Varanger, Rondane, and Aurlandsfjellet, though choosing a favorite is nearly impossible.


Norway boasts an incredibly efficient charging network. Almost every petrol station along the highways has multiple charging points. Additionally, every town with over 10,000 inhabitants has several charging stations. If you filter your search on Tripadvisor to show only hotels with EV chargers, you'll find that availability is excellent. Many hotels offer charging facilities in their car parks, allowing you to start the next leg of your road trip with a fully charged electric vehicle after breakfast.


Another significant reason to rent an electric vehicle is the cost of fuel. Currently, petrol costs around 24 NOK per litre (approximately €2 or $2.2). In comparison, petrol in the US costs about $0.90 per litre. Norway has the highest petrol prices in the world, despite being a major oil exporter. The government imposes high taxes on petrol to discourage the use of fossil fuel vehicles, and it has worked. Four out of five new cars sold are electric, making it cheaper to rent an electric vehicle than a petrol car.


Stay at independent and small-scale hotels


Many hotels and destinations in Norway strive to reduce their ecological footprint or even make a positive contribution. The Sustainable Destination label, the only national certification scheme for sustainability in the Nordic region, recognizes destinations committed to improving the environment, local communities, cultural heritage, and the economy. These hotels standout as an example for their sustainable efforts:


Stokkøya Strandhotell: This beach hotel uses almost exclusively local products and encourages mindful consumption of electricity and water.

292 Aurland: This boutique hotel emphasizes sustainability, with self-produced ingredients and a renovation carried out with the environment in mind.

Juvet Landscape Hotel: Known from films such as Ex Machina, this hotel minimizes its impact on the surroundings by using local materials and maintaining low energy consumption.

Energihotellet: This hotel repurposes existing structures and focuses on minimizing waste, with meals prepared from local products.

Trevarefabrikken: This incredibly charming hotel in Lofoten does an amazing job in vitalizing the local community, making excellent use of what was already there and makes excellent use of local resources.

Hotel Svart: Set to open in 2024, this spectacular hotel will be energy-positive, CO2-neutral, and off-grid, aiming for completely waste-free dining.


Eat and drink locally sourced products


A significant source of CO2 emissions is the global transport of goods such as bananas from Costa Rica, dates from Tunisia, and orange juice from Brazil. Therefore, I strongly advocate for buying locally produced goods and food. Hanen, an umbrella organization for food-producing farmers and unique restaurants and hotels, is fantastic for this. They have a handy map highlighting excellent local products, from apple cider and sausages to superb bread. The Hanen logo almost always signifies a worthwhile stop. I recommend downloading the Hanen app before your trip. Many farms also offer accommodation, making it a treasure trove few tourists are aware of. The Hanen logo is also often used by restaurants and hotels that make extra efforts to use locally produced food in their kitchens, making them highly recommended.


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