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- Destination: why Norway is perfect for solo (female) travelers
Let me start by saying that it is quite an absurd given that it's 2023, and a popular search term on google is; "Can I travel safely as a solo woman to *Destination*?" With that said I will dive straight in with a small introduction. Over the past eight years, I've spent an incredible amount of time immersed in the great outdoors, often in solitude. For some, the idea of venturing into the wilderness alone with a hefty backpack may seem intimidating. However, I found myself feeling much safer and more comfortable than in any bustling city, primarily due to the absence of large crowds. The individuals you do encounter share many of the same thoughts as you do, as they too are there for the very same reasons. Often enough, I crossed paths with fellow travelers who had been exploring solo for days on end, both men and women. In this article, my aim is to particularly encourage women to venture out on their own in Norway. In my modest (and male) opinion, this is why Norway is perfect for solo (female) travelers: Norwegian society ranks among the most egalitarian in the world. The gender equality gap is remarkably low, creating a safe environment for women. While there is still work to be done in closing the gender pay gap and addressing the last vestiges of a fading patriarchal system, significant strides have been made in terms of equality principles. Moreover, there exists a strong social cohesion. People are oriented towards helping one another and keeping an eye out for each other's well-being. You might not immediately sense this as you stroll through a typical Norwegian street, as Norwegians seem rather focused on their privacy. Nevertheless, that social cohesion is undeniably present. Except for a few major cities, the likelihood of being harassed against your will as a woman here is incredibly low. Another crucial piece of information for you, the female outdoor enthusiast, is the existence of something known as the "Mountain Code" in Norway, adhered to by almost every self-respecting lover of the outdoors. These rules are as follows: Plan your trip and inform others of your whereabouts. Adapt your trip according to your abilities and conditions. Pay heed to weather and avalanche warnings. Be prepared for inclement weather and cold, even on short trips. Carry necessary equipment to aid yourself and others. Choose safe routes. Recognize avalanche-prone terrain and uncertain ice. Use a map and compass. Always know your location. Turn around in time; there's no shame in it. Conserve your energy and seek shelter if necessary. When you realize that everyone adheres to these rules, you suddenly feel even safer. You know that people are looking out for themselves and for others. This is also reflected in the fact that, once you're out in the wilderness and encounter someone, it's more the rule than the exception to strike up a conversation. It might start with some small talk like, "Lovely weather, isn't it?" But it serves primarily to inform each other about your origins and destinations. This is an extra safety measure. By doing so, you leave traces in an area, making it much easier to be located in case of an unfortunate incident like a broken ankle. I've mentioned in previous articles that the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) maintains an extensive network of trekking cabins. In these cabins, there's a guestbook where you note the date of your arrival, where you're from, when you're departing, and your destination. To inspire you to embark on solo adventures, I'd like to recommend a fantastic series that aired on national TV (NRK) a few years ago. This series follows a group of absolutely amazing young women who film themselves while embarking on wilderness adventures. Not only are they amazing characters, they also provide you with a ton of really good advice on how to prepare for your endaveour. If you download NORD VPN you will be able to watch the series "Eventyrjenter" from pretty much anywhere. I've seen the series at least twice!
- Destination: Kruttverket; how a gunpowder storage facility became Oslo's coolest cultural hub
The first question you need to ask yourself is how far away from the other tourists you want to venture. The second question might be how on earth you'll get there. The answer to both questions is quite clear I guess, considering the fact you're reading this blog post on 'Ha det Mamma' in the first place. Kruttverket saw the light (again) a few years back. As the name suggests for those who speak a Germanic language, it's an old gunpowder factory from a time when the surrounding residential area didn't exist yet, for goods sake because it did blow up at some point. And now, after a lot of energy, renovations, and subsidies, it has become a new cultural hot-spot that exceeds every expectation. And I'm not exaggerating. There's a café serving delightful coffee and cocktails, jazz is played on Sundays, there are multiple saunas run by Oslo Badstue Forening , an exhibition space where I once saw 15 different photos of a naked man in a forest, and occasionally there are markets where you can buy original art from local artists. Moreover, in addition to all this, the location is exceptionally picturesque. Situated right next to a bubbling river, you almost feel transported to a sort of Japanese onsen, especially with all the sauna-goers populating the charmingly crafted sauna installation with their steaming bodies. Certainly, as autumn sets in, the Norwegian idyll is complete. Aside from the fact that Kruttverket may well be the most intriguing cultural hub within the municipal borders of Oslo, it might also be the place with the highest concentration of artists and craftsmen. Kroloftet is a collective of artists and craftsmen situated right next to Kruttverket. Here, you'll find workshops for ceramics, woodworking, and an abundance of studios and work-spaces. Definitely worth taking a peek inside. You won't want to leave any time soon when you finally made it there. This place sprinkles a cloud of glitter over a somewhat colorless part of the city. It's one of those places that often makes me wonder, "How on earth is this even possible?"
- Destination: a Norwegian getaway; my top-5
Since the internet loves lists, I won't refrain from serving you one as well. But first, let me briefly define how I prefer to define a 'getaway.' For me, a getaway is a stay in a unique location, far away from noise, hassle, and large crowds. Preferably in nature and in stark contrast to the environment I encounter on a day-to-day basis. In my case, that's not too difficult. I spend 8-9 hours behind two large screens in a dull office in Oslo everyday. What you probably also understand is that this list is far from complete, as the number of breathtaking cabins and huts is simply too large. Therefore, I've compiled a list of my 5 favourite Norwegian getaways in different areas, at different price points, and with varying levels of luxury. May they inspire you! Let's set off, in no particular order. Fjord Panorama As the name suggests, you have a beautiful view of green (depending on the season) mountain ridges, water features, and the sky. The cabin itself is an architectural masterpiece and is equipped with all conveniences and luxuries. There's a private hot tub and a projector screen so you can watch your favorite Norwegian series from your bed on a big screen. A pantry kitchen, a king-size bed, and a cozy balcony are also part of the facilities. This is where you go for a romantic weekend. And imagine keeping it as a surprise. That scores you a lot of points. From Oslo, you can fly to Sogndal airport in just an hour. From there, it's only a 15-minute drive to Fjord Panorama. Wonderinn Delta If anything defines a getaway, it's Wonderinn. I'm a bit tired of the influencer culture with overly attractive girls promoting everything, because locations like this don't need that at all. The location itself is spectacular enough. You stay in a cube made of mirrored walls. From the outside, no one sees you, and you have a great view of wide rivers and rolling fields. Furthermore, all the ingredients for a great experience are present: a hot tub, a fire pit, a decent kitchen, and of course, a shower and toilet. Moreover, Wonderinn Delta is only 40 minutes from Oslo (and Oslo airport). Kråen Gård The tiny homes hype took off just after the financial crisis a decade ago. They are now everywhere, including in Norway. Kråen Gård rents one with a fantastic sea view. Kråen Gård is a small farm specializing in the sale of locally produced food. Here, you experience a kind of countryside romanticism that is so uniquely Norwegian. I would like to recommend it to everyone with only a remote sense for adventure. You feel as if you’ve come to the end of the world, one of the most beautiful and calm ‘ends’ that is. Pan Treetop In the midst of one of the most extensive forest areas in Norway are the Pan Treetop Cabins. The award-winning designs have almost become iconic (and you have to be early if you want to spend a few nights here). You camp about 6 meters above the ground and have a magical view of the vast landscape. There's a good chance you'll see a moose walking by from a comfortable height. In fact, these forests can be considered wilderness. Bears live there . Not many, but they do. The Pan Treetop cabins are about a two-hour drive from Oslo airport. Perfect for a long weekend away. Holmen Lofoten This is a location beyond compare. You may have heard of Lofoten. It is a world-famous island group in the far north of Norway. The rocks rise here as steep points from the ocean. Without exaggeration, wherever you look, the view is spectacular, whatever the season. Holmen Lofoten is actually a hotel, but due to its spectacular location and small scale, it has still earned a spot on my list of getaways. Another reason to settle here for a weekend is the excellent food they serve. Ingredients are almost without exception local and of incredible quality. From Oslo, you can fly to Leksnes airport in just under 3 hours. From there, it's a little over an hour's drive to Holmen.
- Destination: a boutique hotel in a storm-weathered paradise; a two-night escape to Austevoll (Norway)
The reason I felt compelled to write an article about Austevoll (Norway) is not coincidental. I first visited it a long time ago and became a little enamored with this charming group of islands. As the emblem of the area suggests, it's all about fishing here. And it has been for a long time. Crab traps are stacked against the wooden boathouses, and here and there, a massive fishing trawler is moored. The allure of this area is the spectacular landscape. You can kayak, fish, hike, and cycle. That might sound like the island is only populated by people in their fifties and older, but the opposite is true. It buzzes with activity in the summer. Especially in Bekkjarvik, pleasure yachts dock frequently, creating a very lively atmosphere. Most tourists can't tear themselves away from the urban life of Bergen. Understandably so. This makes Austevoll and Bekkjarvik, in particular, popular among Norwegians themselves. And they undoubtedly want to keep it that way. But it's too late now. Because not too long ago, a stunning boutique hotel opened here; Beckerwyc House . The name is derived from an old English sea chart where Bekkjarvik is presumably translated to 'Beckerwyc.' The rooms are incredibly stylish and often have views of the picturesque coastal landscape. When you have a cup of coffee in the lounge, you might think you're in a modern Italian apartment in Milan. But no, you find yourself in a coastal village with just over 500 inhabitants. You'll be slightly confused again in the morning when your breakfast is served in your room. Big city luxury...in a Norwegian fishing village. To elevate the whole experience at Beckerwyc in the evening; award-winning chef Ørjan Johannessen cooks up a Michelin-worthy storm at the Mirabelle restaurant . I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say that the Mirabelle restaurant alone is worth traveling to Bekkjarvik for. The culinary journey one is boarding, is of a worldly quality based on the local riches fished up from the sea. My prediction is that it won't be long before Beckerwyc House and restaurant Mirabelle become a destination in itself because they have that potential. And it's up to you to beat the crowds long ahead. When on Austevoll, do not forget to visit Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri , the boat and kayak rental and the Marstein Lighthouse .
- Destination: 5 Norwegian weekend getaways within 2 hours from Amsterdam Schiphol airport
After a demanding 50-hour workweek, my paramount aspiration invariably becomes an escape – a break from computer screens and the confines of the cubicle. And not in the last place, away from a city that is 'on' 24/7. The beckoning allure of nature, coupled with indulgence in delectable cuisine, represents for me an excellent approach to relaxation. The essence lies not solely in distancing oneself from the demands of the workplace but, equally importantly, in disengaging from the pervasive glow of smartphone screens, finding peace in a completely different setting. In light of this, allow me to present to you five extraordinary Norwegian weekend getaways, effortlessly accessible within 2 hours of flying from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, where one's pulse instinctively slows. Presented in no particular order: Kristiansand , though modest in size, unfolds as a haven of cultural richness and unparalleled coziness. Its compactness renders it ideal for a short trip from Amsterdam. Opting for accommodation at Boen Gård , a mere 10-minute drive from the international airport, guarantees a rather extraordinary experience. Boen Gård, with its storied history, houses not only a remarkable Michelin-starred restaurant but also provides opulent lodgings. The enchantment of Boen Gård is hard to describe – maybe that's why I celebrate a pre-Christmas dinner with a group of friends there every year. They just offer superlative service. And Kristiansand itself is really rather charming with it's cute city center and gorgeous coastline. I wrote about Kristiansand before . Årnes , a name unfamiliar and not essential to remember. Wonderinn , however, should be. Within the Årnes municipality, a mere 25-minute drive from Oslo Airport, the name WonderInn proves an understatement. A realm of enchantment rather than mere wonder, reserving one of its magical minihouses transports guests to an entirely different realm. Cabins adorned with mirrored glass, boasting private bubblebaths by the river, epitomize the very essence of an idyllic escape. A gratuitous sauna, a small herd of alpacas, and a location steeped in magic render the experience almost incredulous, yet indisputably authentic. All year 'round I would say making this one of the best weekend trips from Amsterdam...if one decides to go venture north! In Stavanger , a one-stop-shop for a luxurious weekend getaway unfolds, a mere 20-minute drive from Stavanger Airport. The Eilert Smith Hotel , home to Norway's sole 2-Michelin-star restaurant, Ree-na, stands as an institution in its own right. This boutique hotel epitomizes elegance, boasting sophistication that transcends conventional boundaries. Stavanger, a very charming town along Norway's western coastline, strikes the perfect balance between being sufficiently expansive to captivate for a weekend yet sufficiently intimate to evoke a sense of cosiness. Curious about Stavanger? I wrote about the town previously. Ålesund , a city of imaginative splendor, captivates not only through its Instagram-worthy views in all directions but also by virtue of an exceptionally high concentration of outstanding restaurants and hotels, rendering it a destination of considerable repute. The airport, a mere 20-minute drive away, sets the stage for an experience at Hotel Brosundet that transcends the ordinary. Beyond the tasteful decor, peerless harbourside location, indulgent spa, and monumental multi-storey fireplace, it is the intimate live concerts in the lobby and the dedicated staff that etch indelible memories. The sheer abundance of remarkable restaurants in Ålesund makes choosing a daunting task, but perhaps a visit to Apotekergata. nr 5 would have my preference. Trondheim is the bustling metropolis of Trøndelag AND Norway's culinary capital! Trondheim is the Home of Nordic Flavours and has reached a gastronomic zenith – a veritable Mecca for food enthusiasts awaits. Savour the delights of charming cafés and contemporary gourmet establishments, all basking in the illustrious glow of numerous Michelin stars. The finest local ingredients create world-class culinary magic in this city, honoured as the European Region of Gastronomy 2022. A few nights at the Britannia Hotel will leave a mark! While a weekend in Norway undeniably is far to short, consider it a tantalizing preview for an extended holiday. A teaser of sorts. Shaking hands with the country for the first time. For exactly that I ardently hope that my recommendations have stirred a sense of inspiration within you. All destinations as mentioned above are within 2 hours of flying from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. It is advisable to reserve a car in advance. You're only here for the weekend, so time is precious. Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to reserve an electric car . It keeps you going for a weekend.
- Stay: not for pensionists; an exclusive stay on the foot of Gaustatoppen
Rjukan is somewhat of an enigmatic location. Internationally, it is perhaps best known for its association with World War II and the heavy water factory operated by the Germans (don't mention the war!). More recently, Rjukan has garnered attention due to the installation of a sun mirror. Rjukan is nestled in a valley where, during winter, the sun is absent for approximately four months, leaving the valley shrouded in perpetual twilight. A rather disheartening state of affairs leaving housing prices to be unusually low for country standards. To address this, a large mirror has been erected on one of the surrounding mountain ridges, capturing the meager sunlight during these dark months and reflecting it directly into the valley, offering the residents at least a semblance of light. However, it is not for this reason alone that I write about Rjukan. During the second summer of the pandemic, my love and I embarked on a holiday in Norway. It was then that I received the summons to receive my first vaccine dose while we were camping by a lake. Determined to comply, we embarked on a 400-kilometer journey back to Oslo, only to resume our vacation the following morning. Our budget was rather constrained, but we decided that sleeping in a tent or hammock that night was out of the question. Serendipitously, we stumbled upon a small hotel marked on the map, conveniently located along our route. And so it was that we found ourselves in the vicinity of Rjukan. Little did I anticipate what an extraordinary experience awaited us. Tuddal Høyfjellshotell is nestled in the mountains, overlooking a vast lake just below the treeline. Constructed in a charming chalet style, the hotel has been welcoming guests since 1895, and this legacy is immediately apparent upon entering. It is a scene straight out of a fairy tale. The interior is delightfully old-fashioned yet exudes an authentic ambiance. It feels as though stepping into a time capsule, with decorations, vintage photographs, and hunting trophies adorning every nook and cranny. Each evening, a four-course dinner is served promptly at 19:00, bringing all the guests together in the dining hall simultaneously. This creates a uniquely special atmosphere. One can take a moment to observe their fellow patrons and gain a sense of the community within the hotel. The service is truly remarkable, infused with enthusiasm and dedication. You feel genuinely seen and valued. The cuisine revolves around locally available ingredients, and this is unmistakable in the flavors that are brought to life. Expect no experimental artistry, but rather beautifully executed, honest dishes that tantalize the taste buds. One feels as though they have stepped into a movie scene. Perhaps akin to "The Grand Budapest Hotel," but set in Norway? Following dinner, we ordered coffee in one of the sitting rooms and were soon joined by other guests. The evening unfolded into a delightful late-night affair, with whisky flowing abundantly. One might perceive this place as catering primarily to pensioners, but I hold the opposite view being somewhere in my thirties. Those standardized and generic hotels truly contribute nothing to the overall experience of a destination. Tuddal Høyfjellshotell, on the other hand, is an entity in itself—a destination actually. If you find yourself in the vicinity and planning to stay in Telemark, Rjukan or Gaustatoppen, or even if you are not, I implore you to book a night's stay . with a strong promise you will not regret it. And by the way, the accommodations themselves are truly remarkable, despite the fact that we had our stay in the smallest, most rudimentary chamber available. We loved it. All of it. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport doesn't get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Hike: a low key hike to a high-profile glacier; Austdalsbreen, the lesser know sidearm of Jostedalsbreen
In this article, I shall impart unto thee a splendid tip on how to hike from a picturesque valley to a distinctive segment of a glacier, far removed from the throngs of tourists that populate the trails leading to the more renowned glaciers. This route is scarcely known outside of the Norwegian locals, yet it ultimately grants thee a magnificent vista of an epic tributary of the better-known Jostedalsbreen. At first you write Sota Sæter into your navigation system. As you turn left from the highway near Coop Prix Bruvoll, you'll find yourself on Bråtåvegen. The road is paved with asphalt until you reach a barrier. Beyond that point, it transforms into a long, wide gravel road winding through a vast valley that seems to stretch endlessly. The further you drive into the valley, the weaker the phone signal becomes, until it eventually fades away entirely. After about 20 minutes, you arrive at a picturesque settlement consisting of an old, black-painted farmhouse surrounded by picnic benches and bustling activity. This is one of the DNT huts where you can spend the night before or after your hike. But that's not why we're here, not neccessarily at least. We continue driving further, passing through another barrier where we have to pay a small fee. This contribution goes towards keeping the road snow-free during winter, fair enough right? The road starts to deteriorate slightly, with a few potholes here and there, but it doesn't bother us. After about fifteen minutes of driving, we spot a small parking lot on the right where we park our car (there's a few cabins further down, but don't park there). With our backpacks on, we set off on the hiking trail, a meandering path through the Surtbyttdalen. The ultimate destination is the viewpoint, a hundred meters above the Styggevasshytta. I won't describe the entire hike in detail; my point is that in this remote corner of the valley, hardly any tourists venture, making the four-hour hike to the viewpoint almost a spiritual experience. Please don't misunderstand me, I have absolutely nothing against tourists. However, the joy diminishes when you have to walk in a procession to Kjeragbolten, Preikestolen, or Trolltunga. There are so many underrated routes that are equally beautiful, if not more so. And that is the case here too. The landscape is diverse, stunning, and the reward is immense once you reach the highest point. The journey back down is much faster and took us less than 2.5 hours. All in all, it's essential to set aside a day for this hike. A few things to keep in mind during such hikes: There is hardly any phone signal in this valley, except for a very weak signal when you climb one of the highest peaks. If you decide to hike alone, always inform at least one person about your plans. Let them know where you're going and how long you expect to stay there. If you're trekking from one DNT hut to another, always write in the guestbooks, indicating your origin and destination. This system ensures that you can be found much faster in case you twist your ankle and can't continue. Also, make sure to bring enough food—some sandwiches, a few bags of nuts, and perhaps some chocolate—to keep your energy levels up. There's plenty of water available, but be cautious when drinking from streams that may be grazed by sheep or goats . And a final warning: don't venture or hike onto the glaciers without a guide. Just don't do it! Before setting out, it's wise to consult UT.no and study the map, and possibly check out DNT if you plan to stay nearby overnight. We actually booked a cabin on the nearby campsite. Which was basic but excellent. And they make great pizza too, which was an absolutely joy to replenish our energy with after a long day in the mountains. **Getting there: unless you're bike-packing, it's nearly impossible to get there without a car. So it is most wise to rent a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Clothes: unsightly Norwegian woolen sweaters
Well, some folks might consider Norwegian woolen sweaters unsightly, but it's crucial to acknowledge that the history of woolen garments in Norway is deeply rooted in the practical needs of its people. Back in ancient times (let's not mention the Vikings), when surviving harsh winters was the top priority, Norwegians turned to wool for warmth and protection. Sheep farming became an integral part of rural life, with communities raising sheep and perfecting the art of spinning wool into yarn. The long, freezing winters provided ample time for such endeavors. Consequently, the Norwegian sweater, known as the "genser," evolved into a cherished garment that blended functionality with artistic flair. Each region developed its own distinct knitting patterns, reflecting local traditions and cultural identities. These intricate designs, passed down through generations, told tales of the land, the sea, and the legends that shaped Norwegian heritage. Nowadays, woolen clothing, especially sweaters, enjoys the same popularity as in times of yore. Almost as popular as botox and " raske briller ." But I digress, let's get back on track. I fondly recall purchasing my very first Dale of Norway sweater from a vintage shop in Amsterdam back in 2012 (and I still rock it every winter. If you ask me kindly I might post a picture of that unusual sight later). Judging by its vibrant purple and neon green shades, it must have hailed from the 1990s. Some may consider it unappealing, but I grew increasingly smitten with it. It wasn't until I moved to Norway that I truly grasped the timeless allure of these sweaters. It's not just about their impeccable craftsmanship and use of the finest wool; it's also the Norwegians' meticulous care and respect for them. They are an integral part of Norwegian (outdoor) culture, and Norwegians proudly flaunt them. When a thread unravels, it's promptly repaired. Having lived in Norway for almost a decade, woolen sweaters have become a prominent feature of my winter wardrobe too. Almost every year, I add one to my Christmas wish list. Last year, luck was on my side, and my wish came true with a magnificent sweater from de Vold . It's so thick and substantial that it almost serves as a jacket. It came with a hefty price tag, but I already know that I'll treasure it for a lifetime. If you find yourself in Oslo, a visit to the Dale of Norway Flagship store is a bit of a must. It exudes elegance and instantly sparks anticipation for wintertime. Or check out their factory outlet in located right next to their factory. The same goes for the Devold brandstore . However, for some of us, myself included as a resident of Norway, life can be quite costly, let alone affording a woolen sweater priced at 2000NOK. Moreover, when traveling, one typically wishes to allocate most funds towards exploring as much of this magnificent country as possible. But fear not, for there's still a way to acquire a stunning (vintage) Norwegian sweater at a fraction of the cost of a new one. And trust me, very few visitors from abroad are aware of this: Fretex ! This chain of second-hand stores, operated by the Salvation Army, stretches across the entire country. They often boast a substantial clothing section, including a selection of vintage Norwegian sweaters. My preferred Fretex shop is located at Ullevålsveien 12 in Oslo, but you'll also find Fretex stores in smaller villages like Voss. By supporting Fretex, you contribute to the charitable work undertaken by the Salvation Army for vulnerable individuals, while also promoting reduced consumption. It's a win-win, wouldn't you agree? You can also explore their webshop , although the selection of woolen sweaters there is somewhat limited.
- Drink: the best drink in Norway after beer; ice-cold mountain water from a river
There are but two delightful beverages. Ice-cold water and ice-cold beer. No, wait. There are only three truly delightful beverages. Ice-cold water, ice-cold beer, and a fine Spätburgunder. No... there are more. Hmm, messy start of this article. Anyway, let us discuss the first one at least; drink ice-cold water from a river in Norway. Water is abundant here and often of unparalleled quality above the tree line. I dare say it may be nearly superior to tap water. Now, that might be a slight exaggeration, but this is a blog, not a scientific paper. So allow me, will you. The purpose of this piece is to enlighten you on drinking water that doesn't come from the tap. I shall tell you what to consider and what to do if you are a tad apprehensive. To get straight to the point, I seldom adhere to the rules I am about to enumerate for you. Nevertheless, I shall list them in no particular order: Cattle, lifestock, animals: Norway is inhabited by various creatures; sheep, goats, cows, musk oxes, deer, reindeer, and moose. And all these animals defecate. Of course, they don't do it directly in a river, but the water that flows down from the slopes and eventually reaches the rivers does come into contact with feces. Generally, this poses little harm, but as with everything, in moderation. Because once the concentration of bacteria becomes too high, drinking such water can make you ill. As a counterargument, you probably have no idea about the amount of bacteria on your mobile phone, and they are far more harmful than the two bacteria you might scoop from a Norwegian mountain river. Nonetheless, if you spot large numbers of sheep, refrain from drawing water from the tiniest streams and wait until you encounter a somewhat larger river. Tree line: Generally, you can follow the rule 'the higher, the better,' and by that, I mean the elevation at which you fetch water from the stream. I prefer to do this at or just above the tree line. You want to ensure as little organic matter as possible ends up in your water. But here, too, you can make considerations. When it's a larger, fast-flowing river, you're hardly at risk. But if it flows slowly and there's abundant plant growth along the banks, it might be wise not to drink directly from the stream. Stagnant water: There are numerous lakes here in Norway, and here the rules become somewhat 'murky.' That is to say, there are hardly any rules. Here, it comes down to what you see, your intuition, and what I just wrote. A lake above the tree line with ample fresh water inflow is fine. If there's much vegetation, perhaps not. But it's not all-encompassing. I'm not particularly apprehensive myself and have indulged in water from various sources. When the water is clear and cold, you're hardly at risk. However, always make sure you have some visibility of what's happening around the lake. If there are holiday homes or many boats, refrain from drinking from it directly. Or at least boil it. If you're on the road with your campervan or tent and want to err on the side of caution, you can always boil your water. If you want to ensure every bacterium meets its demise, boil your water for 5 minutes straight and you'll be ensured safe passage. In addition, here are a few handy tools to make access to drinking water even easier: A water bag : Takes up little space in your luggage and is easy to fill. Nice to have by your tent because you consume more water than you think. A gasburner and a kettle : Not only to make your water safe for drinking but also for morning coffee. A thermos flask : It's part of my gear both in summer and winter. Because nothing is better than having a bottle of ice-cold water with you when you reach the summit (yes, a thermos flask can keep your water both hot and cold). A water purification kit : Honestly, I must admit I've never used one. You won't find any Norwegians fiddling with such a thing either. But I know hikers who bring one on multi-day trips. With the apocalyps in mind, it might not be the worst of purchases. Have a good trip!
- Gear: dangling between the trees; why sleeping in a hammock in Norway is a great outdoor hack
One of the things I find truly wonderful about Norway is the right to stay in nature. When you travel with a heavy backpack, one of my favorite items is a hammock . In my modest opinion; it is a great outdoor and hiking hack. They are lightweight, they occupy minimal space, and allow you to sleep almost anywhere without having to consider a rocky surface. However, there are a few factors to consider if you rely solely on a hammock as your accommodation. Be sure to consider the temperature. Even in the height of summer, when the evenings hardly cool down, lying completely still in your hammock exerts additional pressure on the bottom of your sleeping bag, resulting in reduced insulation between you and the air flowing beneath the hammock. My absolute recommendation is to bring along a large sheepskin. It provides a luxuriously soft surface and offers fantastic insulation. If you have a bit more to spend, consider purchasing a reindeer hide here in Norway beforehand. This ensures a delightful night's sleep. Invest in a good hammock as well. Take your own weight into account and decide whether you want a mosquito net or not. Despite the weather forecasts, you may still be surprised by a nocturnal rain shower. To protect yourself from this, it's handy to bring along a tarp that you can suspend high above your hammock using guy lines. This will also shield you from the morning dew. I wrote about it before. But do bring a proper sleeping bag . And with proper I mean one that has a 'hood' that you can pull over your head. They often come with a special pocket meant to be stuffed with a sweater or any other fluffy fabric to mimic a head pillow. And again, do not underestimate the temperatures. Consider one that is still comfortable in -10 degrees celcius. You will not regret it, I promise. I have two. One suitable for the summer, and one very thick one for the autumn and winter. The final tip is for just before bedtime. Make sure you move around a bit. For example, do 30 squats. When you crawl into your sleeping bag with your muscles warmed up, you can be sure of a comfortable slumber. It's not your sleeping bag that provides warmth, rather, it retains the available heat within. And that heat comes from you. That's why a hammock is a great outdoor hack! Convinced right?
- Gear: on the good foot in Norway; Hanwag is my favourite hiking boot
I can still vividly remember my first multi-day hike here in Norway. It was in a gorgeous area in the south of Norway called Setesdal Vesthei. I had slowly gathered some gear together. A few years before my move, I had bought a faded second-hand 55-liter backpack. I still had a pair of hiking shoes that I had received from my mother during high school, and I had a sleeping bag that was slightly too cold. But hey, who cared? I was alone, the weather was fantastic, and I was ecstatic about doing exactly what I had always dreamed of. After spending the night in a DNT hut , it was time to make the 6-hour hike back. Time can be deceiving when you're in the mountains, so luckily, I had kept track of how much time the journey took me to ensure I would arrive at the bus stop on time to catch the bus that passes through the area only twice a day. During the descent from 1200 to 200 meters, I suddenly felt mud splashing against my shins with each step. It turned out that my 10-year-old hiking shoe was falling apart. Or, the entire sole was disintegrating. Makeshiftly, I tied the sole of my shoe to the rest of it with a piece of cord and hurriedly descended the mountain. I made it on time to take the bus back to Kristiansand, but only just. What I became acutely aware of then was how important good shoes are. That has stuck with me ever since. And that's why I want to give you some advice on what makes good shoes and how to distinguish the junk from the quality (because I've made the mistake of buying bad shoes a few times). First of all, I'm not a fan of synthetic materials. There are certainly good synthetic shoes, but when it comes to maintenance and durability, leather shoes are simply in a different league. After a long search and trying at least 10 different brands and 40 different shoes, I treated myself to a pair of these Hanwag hiking boots I bought here in Norway. I actually had to save up for them, because they don't come cheap. But considering how many kilometers I've already walked in them, they actually cost about the same as three pairs of synthetic shoes that would have been far gone by now. And on top of that, if you see how they're made you'll understand. They are just extremely sturdy shoes that eventually mold to your own feet. I wear them all year round, even to the office during wintertime to keep dry and warm from all the ice and slush. After which I shift to more appropriate office-proof footwear of course. It does require good maintenance because moisture and temperature fluctuations demand a lot from leather. That's why I use Norrländsk Läderfett after every walk to keep the leather supple and waterproof. Moreover, it smells as if going below decks on an old wooden sailing boat. Or maybe even like strong Earl Grey tea. Absolutely delicious. But I'm aware opinions might differ on this matter. Whatever durable hiking shoes you buy for your Norway adventure, make sure you break them in properly before you start roaming the Norwegian wilderness. And by breaking them in, I mean letting the shoes conform to your feet. This will prevent you from spending the rest of your vacation in Norway suffering from blisters. Expect to walk between 10 and 20 km before your shoes become completely comfortable. Just put them on when you go to the grocery shop or during your sunday stroll. You'll be doing yourself a massive favor. Believe me!
- Hike: Four seasons in a day: a packing list for an outdoorsy (summer) holiday in Norway
Planning a journey to Norway can be somewhat overwhelming, especially when you intend to spend ample time camping. Hence, I thought it appropriate to share my Norway packing list with all the essentials when preparing my 70L backpack for an extended trek through the wilderness. Naturally, this list isn't exclusively for backpackers. If you’re embarking on an adventure with your camper van and plan to enjoy the great outdoors, it’s highly advisable to bring along many of the items below. As you may already know, Norway is a land of remarkable diversity, offering a wide range of conditions. There's a saying that you can experience four seasons in one day here, and there's a lot of truth to it. From the picturesque, sunny southern coast, you can drive within a few hours to the high plains of the Hardangervidda, where the temperature can drop by 15 degrees and you might still spot patches of snow. You might start your day having breakfast in a t-shirt and end it in a woollen jumper, enjoying a beer outside your camper while gazing at the peaks of Jotunheimen. Thus, this packing list is suitable whether you're going camping or planning a road trip with your car or camper, including several day hikes to Trolltunga or Preikestolen or whatever other obscure plans you might have: Waterproof jacket and trousers Lightweight windbreaker and hiking trousers with moisture-wicking properties Woolen or blended underwear Woolen socks with a snug fit and preferrably an extra pair Woolen sweater or jacket, or a lightweight down jacket Lightweight tent (I always bring one, even if I'm staying in cabins, to ensure shelter in case of unexpected weather changes) A thin mattress or underlay to separate you from cold surfaces Woolen mittens or gloves that retain warmth when wet Lightweight sneakers (useful if your hiking boots get wet) Well-worn (!!!) hiking boots to prevent blisters Shorts and t-shirt made of wool or synthetic fibres for warmer weather A thermos flask, both for your morning coffee and to keep river water cool during warm days Backpack with suitable volume Waterproof bags for food and clothes (optional rain cover) Sleeping bag when camping. Temperatures can drop at high altitudes, even in midsummer. Better too warm then too cold. Power banks for charging devices First aid kit with blister plasters and sports tape Minimal toiletries and a small/lightweight towel (preferably biodegradable toothpaste) Toilet paper and an extra garbage bag (there are no rubbish bins in the wilderness, and leaving trash is absolutely unacceptable) Sunglasses and factor 50 sunscreen Insect repellent/mosquito net Map, compass, and waterproof map case, or GPS device Multitool and duct tape Matches/lighter Propane burner for cooking A simple kettle to boil water A cup or bowl for diners and breakfast Compact headlamp /flashlight Cash/debit card DNT key and digital membership card (if you plan to stay in DNT cabins) Provisions! It's better to have too many than too few! As I mentioned earlier, this list serves as an indication of essential items. Naturally, the type of trip you undertake will ultimately determine what you pack. Nevertheless, I hope I have been able to assist you to some extent. Should you have any questions, please feel free to send me a message via Instagram .
- Hike: Prehistoric rock carvings on the slopes of an ancient volcano just outside Oslo
Since ancient times, the environs of Oslo have been inhabited, and for good reason. The lengthy expanse of the Oslo Fjord provided shelter from the elements, boasting a more stable climate compared to the tumultuous weather of the west coast. Moreover, in yesteryears, the Oslo Fjord teemed with vast quantities of fish. Evidence of this abundance lies in the myriad rock carvings discovered in the vicinity of Oslo. Let's delve into some of these ancient depictions, accessible for your own exploration. By the end of this little article, you will know: How to reach the rock carvings Their (potential) significance Key observations to make Rumors had reached my ears of prehistoric rock carvings nestled just a stone's throw (pun intended) away from my house, a mere three kilometers as the crow flies. Yet, strangely, I had never bothered to ascertain their precise location until last week. As a great lover of historical sites in Norway, it is with slight shame to admit not knowing my close surroundings. To my surprise, the journey was simpler than anticipated. From Oslo, you board bus 150 heading towards Gullhaug, where you'll get off that same bus at Steinskogen Gravlund. From there, consult ' Dalbo ' on your Google Maps, cross the road with care, and proceed along Daeliveien, leading directly to the several rock carving sites, clearly indicated with signage. Alternatively, you can opt for the metro to Gjettum, accessing Daeliveien from the opposite direction. Assuming familiarity with signage and rudimentary navigation skills via Google Maps, the journey should be rather straightforward. And if not, ask a local! Norwegians like to help out and point directions. What sets these rock carvings apart, uniquely Scandinavian, is the depiction of a large rowboat manned by over 20 rowers. Presumably a war vessel, it's also plausible that such longships were utilized for fishing expeditions, given the erstwhile abundance of fish in the Oslo Fjord. Regrettably, contemporary times have witnessed a stark decline in marine life within the fjord due to severe pollution from sewage, agricultural runoff, and overfishing. However, in antiquity, the fjord thrived with life and bio diversity, with fishing serving as a primary food source for the local tribes. The interpretation of rock carvings remains ambiguous, subject to varying hypotheses among archaeologists. It has been posited that these carvings may demarcate territorial boundaries, serve as conduits for rituals, or invoke favor from higher powers, particularly the animal depictions, believed to enhance hunting luck. The initial rock carvings at Dalbo were unearthed in 1959, comprising numerous ship motifs, circles, and footprints spread across ten distinct areas. At Gjettum, rock carvings were first discovered in the 1970s, with additional findings in the 1990s. Multiple rock art sites feature abundant ship motifs, footprints, images of horses and the like. Presently, these sites are obscured by turf and challenging to locate, a fortunate circumstance considering the propensity of certain individuals to leave their mark, something we would now call vandalism. Thankfully, the past two decades have seen no further damage inflicted upon the rock carvings. Hence, it is imperative to refrain from defacing or trampling upon these ancient relics. Both out of respect for those from ancient times, as well present day humanity. I must confess, a sense of reverence overcame me upon beholding the rock carvings last week. It's profoundly moving to contemplate how our European forebears etched their existence onto these stones, now imprinting upon our collective consciousness. These carvings afford a remarkable glimpse into bygone eras, bridging temporal chasms and rendering the distant past palpably proximate. In addition to the rock carvings, this locale boasts a rich tapestry of history. Should you fancy a brief ascent, consider scaling the Gråmagan Bygdeborg. Unsure of the route? Download the UT.NO app for precise directions. In essence, a bygdeborg denotes a prehistoric defensive structure typically erected atop elevated and strategically positioned hills or cliffs. Constructed at various junctures throughout history, these fortifications served diverse purposes contingent upon their contextual milieu. Typically featuring palisades, ramparts, ditches, or a combination thereof, bygdeborger afforded protection against incursions. They might also incorporate ancillary defenses such as fortified gates, towers, or catapults to repel adversaries. At times, bygdeborger doubled as dwellings or communal gathering sites, alongside their defensive function. Upon reaching the remnants of the Gråmagan Bygdeborg, the clarity of its strategic placement becomes immediately apparent. Commanding a breathtaking view on Oslo, the Oslo Fjord, and the surrounding hinterlands, the site affords unparalleled vantage points to anticipate potential threats and warn the settlements below. It reminded me a bit of the beacons of Gondor, perhaps an empty reference for those unversed in the lore of Middle-earth, the panoramic view alone justifies the modest ascent. For those of you being geology-nerds, the Gråmagan Bygdeborg is situated upon the flank of an ancient dormant volcano, testament to the volcanic activity that once characterized this region hundreds of millions of years ago. For those of you interested in rockcarvings and planning a longer journey beyond the Norwegian capital, there is an abundance of beautifully preserved rock carving sites across the country. And do have a look at the article I wrote about rock carvings in Alta.
- Stay: the gift of feeling young again; staying in a tree house in Norway
The greatest gift you can give an adult is the feeling of being 'young' again (at least for a little while). I last felt young, and I'm not even old, when I slid down a snowy hill on a child's sled. The combination of pure joy and adrenaline is a rarity in an average adult life. I feel the same way about treehouses. As a child I used to build them with my friends, high above the ground in an ancient chestnut tree. It was nothing more than a rickety platform, a few walls, and a 5-meter-long rope ladder that we could pull up so no one else could come up. We felt like kings of an empire. Speaking of tree houses, there are quite a few of them in Norway. In fact, the Norwegians have elevated the construction of such huts to a kind of art form. And you can indeed stay in them. Isn't it wonderful to feel young again during your vacation? I've selected 5 treehouses for you with the only condition that you can (more or less) reach them by car and sleep there with two persons or more. Here we go! In the inland of the historic South Norwegian region Agder lies a very small village; Konsmo. Nothing special. A beautiful valley, a few houses, and mostly meadows and forests. And right there, deep in the woods by a small lake, is a kind of 'settlement' consisting of well-equipped treehouses with comfortable beds and a wood-fired hot tub. The location is picturesque and romantically rustic. Treetop Fiddan is a mini paradise where you lose track of time. Picking blueberries, making a fire, the jacuzzi, and sleeping soundly with only the sound of birds outside. If you're in South Norway, this is almost a must. Odda is a small town nestled between the mountains at the end of a long branch of the majestic Hardangerfjord. It's a place that captivates the imagination, not least because of the filming of the Netflix series Ragnarok that took place there. But also, in Odda, there's a small architectural masterpiece with a fantastic bed and an equally amazing view. In fact, the view is magnificent. I dare say this is one of the most exclusive accommodations in Norway. Additionally, Woodnest is an excellent base for a hike to one of the most Instagrammed spots in Norway: Trolltunga. Staying in Trekronå means living high in the treetops of Ogna, a small town near Stavanger. Two cabins on steel legs in the pine trees near the golf course in Ogna. Nearby, you'll also find Holmasanden, a beautiful sandy beach that is equally stunning all year round. In summer, it's perfect for swimming and sunbathing, and in winter, you can hike in the area and enjoy the elements. The cabins are perfect for three people. And all conveniences are provided. Kitchen, bathroom, and sitting area; it's all there. If you feel like it, you can reserve the sauna. The legendary PAN treehouses are a phenomenon in themselves. This is, of course, due to the architecture and construction, but just as much because of the location. It's not for nothing that the huts are equipped with a professional telescope. The beautiful, open view allows you to, with a bit of luck, see an elk, fox, or wolf passing by. The huts are located in one of the wildest parts of Norway, close to the Swedish border. And by wild, I mean sparsely populated. Hedalen is perhaps best known for a stave church from the 12th century. Additionally, the area borders the breathtaking Valdres and its associated nature parks. Less known is that there is also a fantastic treehouse, or several in fact; Fosstopp . The name suggests it already. There is indeed a waterfall nearby. This is the perfect place when you're traveling with a large family or a group of friends. The treehouses are in the middle of nowhere, so you have the forest, the rushing river, and the beautiful view all to yourself. Moreover, Fosstopp's treehouses are only a two-hour drive from Oslo Airport. A long weekend is not a bad idea. **Getting there: Since most locations in this arcticle are rather remote, public transport isn't really an option, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability at your arrival airport of choice.
- Destination: Viking sites in Norway; a (nearly) complete guide to the 15 most important ones.
When you set foot within the Norwegian borders, you'll quickly notice that the word 'Viking' is quite prevalent. Just consider the number of businesses: Viking Tow Trucks, Viking Window Cleaners, Viking Shoes, and so on. This suggests that Norse Viking folklore plays a lively role in modern society. That's not entirely accurate, but the visible remnants of this illustrious era are abundant in Norway in the form of countless Viking sites, museums and excavations. Therefore, for those intrigued by Vikings, Norse sagas, Viking festivals, folklore and Viking artifacts I've compiled a list of numerous places associated with them. Viking ships, burial mounds, exhibitions; the lot! By the way, did you know that 'Viking' is actually a verb? In the case of a sea journey, you 'go Vikinging.' You are not a Viking. Well, that's a little linguistic nerd quirk. Okay, here's a tidbit since you're here anyway. Even though it hasn't been conclusively determined, the likely reason the Norsemen sought places where there was 'something to be had' probably has to do with a massive volcano erupting on the other side of the globe. This caused a global temperature drop for several years, less sunlight, and particularly in the far north, resulted in very poor harvests. This forced them to search for places where farming was easier such as England and the west coast of France (Normandy is named after Normann or Norseman). Now, onto the list. I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, but forgive me if I missed something. And referring to the title of this being a nearly complete guide, has of course to do with all the yet to be uncovered sites in Norway. 1. Viking Ship Museum (Vikingskipshuset), Oslo : Home to well-preserved Viking ships, including the Oseberg, Gokstad, and Tune ships. Currently closed due to a massive extension being built. Unfortunately, you'll have to wait until 2027 for the doors to open again. 2. Historical Museum (Historisk Museum), Oslo : Features an extensive collection of Viking artifacts, including tools, weapons, and jewelry. I found myself a little starstruck and nearly spent the entire afternoon in this museum. Especially the jewels and ornaments left a profound impression. 3. Midgard Vikingsenter: Tønsberg : Tønsberg is not only Norway's oldest city (absolutely worth a visit) but also the Viking Center. In the 2000s, an enormous amount of buildings and artifacts from the Viking Age were discovered here. An impressive visitor center has been built around it and a well replicated Viking homestead was erected. Definitely worth the visit, if I may say so. 4. Lofotr Viking Museum, Borg : Located in the Lofoten Islands, it includes a full-size reconstruction of a Viking chieftain's longhouse. What's incredibly cool about it is that it's beautifully situated. You hardly realize it's a museum, making it easier to imagine how it looked back then. Because, oh, the surroundings are beautiful. 5. Avaldsnes : Known as Norway's oldest royal seat, Avaldsnes has the remains of a Viking farm and a reconstructed Viking longhouse. Besides, a part of the hilarious Norwegian series Norsemen was filmed here. 6. Bryggen Wharf, Bergen : A UNESCO World Heritage Site with medieval buildings that were part of the Hanseatic League, influenced by Viking trade. Now, it's not really a typical Viking place, but Norway's history as a trading nation has its roots in the Viking Age. 7. Stiklestad National Cultural Center, Verdal : Site of the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030, where King Olaf II (Saint Olaf) fell. The visitor center explores Viking history. One of those events you're lucky not to have been a part of. About 10,000 deaths occurred, which was an enormous number for that time. 8. Norsk Folkemuseum, Oslo : An open-air museum with historical buildings, including a Stave Church and a farm representing Viking-era architecture. One of my favorite museums in Oslo. 9. Viking Village Njardarheimr, Gudvangen : A reconstructed Viking village where visitors can experience daily life and activities. And not just fun for children, believe me. 10. The University Museum of Bergen (Bryggens Museum) : Exhibits artifacts from medieval Bergen, showcasing Viking history in the context of the city's development. Very interesting exhibition. Especially when it rains, which happens quite often in Bergen, this is a good activity to have in reserve. 11. The Heddal Stave Church, Notodden : Although primarily a medieval church, it provides insights into the architecture and craftsmanship of the Viking Age. Need I say more about stave churches? This is one of the most impressive and largest stave churches within the country's borders and worth a visit. 12. Kaupang Viking Town, Tjølling : Archaeological site of a former trading town dating back to the 8th century. I've never been there, so I can't say anything about it. 14. Trondenes Historical Center, Harstad : Home to a reconstructed Viking longhouse and offers insights into the Viking history of Northern Norway. This is particularly fascinating when you consider that in winter, there was hardly any light here. How on earth did they do it without flashlights? 15. Jernaldergården (Iron Age Farm), Stavanger : A reconstructed Iron Age farm where visitors can experience daily life from the Viking Age. A fantastic representation of a small iron age village. Great fun for kids and adults a like.
- Stay: we lived in a bubble at Wonderinn; the most romantic stay close to Oslo, Norway
WonderInn is just an hour's drive from Oslo, yet you find yourself immersed in a completely different world. Among rolling hills, ancient farms, sleepy villages, and vast stretches of woodland, a small paradise reveals itself; WonderInn (Norway). After navigating countless country lanes, you suddenly veer onto a gravel road. This road winds past majestic farmhouses and ventures deeper into the fields until you reach the ultimate destination. The grounds where Wonderinn resides can only be described as idyllic, romantic, even heavenly. A magnificent old birch tree casts its shade over a grassy expanse adorned with several tables and chairs, perfect for enjoying breakfast in the morning. Currently, there's no one else around, except for a chicken wandering near the tables, perhaps in search of the last crumbs from breakfast. An old barn has been transformed into a communal space filled with second-hand furniture and charming decorations. There's a small kitchenette and a shower/toilet. What catches your eye is the abundance of animals all around. The chicken has disappeared for now, but behind one of the sheds, two adorable little pigs stand, happily oinking. They gladly welcome a stroke and seem rather fond of humans (we really don't deserve animals). As you turn the corner along one of the gravel paths, on your way to the river, you suddenly come face to face with four somewhat shy yet curious llamas. It fills your heart with joy, and even though you've only been here for 20 minutes, it feels like the worries of daily life are far behind. By the river, there's a sort of jetty with a terrace and a small sauna. From the sauna, you can relish a splendid view of the river, and with just a few steps, you can plunge into the invigorating cold water for a refreshing break. I dare you! We had reserved one of the igloos. It's located about two hundred meters away from the main building, discreetly nestled on a gentle slope within a small patch of woodland. With our backpacks securely fastened, we stroll towards the igloo, carrying a few bottles of wine and some delicious treats. To our delight, it's exquisitely furnished, boasting a heavenly bed. It might just be the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in. From the plateau where the igloo stands, you're treated to a breathtaking view of the landscape, the farmstead, and the river. Amidst the towering pines, dozens of birds engage in lively conversations. It's the height of summer, a bit too warm, yet there's a tempting urge to light the wood-burning stove. After a delightful evening spent outdoors on the terrace and an hour in the sauna, it's time to retire for the night. The next morning, you can collect breakfast to enjoy beneath the ancient birch tree. Everything is impeccably arranged. The breakfast is simple, yet every bite tastes divine and fresh. We had only booked one night, which turned out to be far too short. Unfortunately, it was the only available night. This brings me to my next point. It's wise to plan your visit meticulously and book well in advance . The modern cabins by the river, in particular, are highly sought-after and often fully booked. No wonder, this is the most romantic stay close to Oslo! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really is a bit of a hassle to get you there and you'll have to walk a big stretch with all your luggage, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Eat: slam the brakes... for some of the best fish delicacies in Norway
The journey from Hønefoss to Bagn isn't particularly remarkable, I must say. The scenery surely is beautiful and vast, with breathtaking views of large lakes and expansive forests. However, it can't compare to the awe-inspiring sight that awaits you as you traverse the mountain passes of Jotunheimen. I've traveled that road countless times on my way to a holiday cottage in Valdres. And during each trip, something peculiar always happens that forces us to slam on the brakes. About a quarter of the way across Lake Sperillen, you suddenly come across a tiny little shop on your right-hand side, easily missed if you're not paying attention: Villfisken . At first glance, the building resembles a Soviet-style kiosk of some sort. But hold on tight for the delightful surprise that awaits you upon stepping inside. Villfisken, or 'wild fish,' owes its name to the nearby lake, teeming with an abundance of fish. And that brings me to their specialty: cold-smoked trout. Absolutely the best I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. Maybe even the best fish delicacies in Norway. But even for those who aren't fans of fish, a stop here is well worth it. They offer an extensive range of local cheeses, deli meats, herbs, jams, crackers, and chocolates. One place where I definitely wouldn't hit the brakes for is the Norwegian Pig Museum . However, if you're in need of your daily dose of absurdity, you might consider making a detour and paying it a visit. It's a barn filled to the brim with the collecting obsession of a retired man; pig-figures. And it's, well, more or less on the way. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Stay: you've chosen to visit Flåm in Norway (Flam). But where to stay?
Where to stay in Flåm (Flam), Norway is a question that can only be answered with a sense of ambivalence. Because Flåm (you say 'Flohhm' not 'Flaehm') exerts a rather captivating allure on the average visitor and finds its place on most (American) itineraries. This is both just and unjust. Just, because Flåm boasts a terminus for a cul-de-sac train journey, a uniqueness within the Norwegian fjord landscape. One can experience a significant elevation difference by train from Myrdal station at 867m to Flåm at sea level, an experience inherently remarkable. Yet, unjust, for Flåm itself has evolved into a tourist hotspot, replete with ubiquitous sportswear shops, over-crowded terraces, and restaurants offering mediocre dishes at substantial prices. The parking lots are dotted with tour buses, and, with a stroke of misfortune, three or more colossal cruise ships may be moored, obscuring the view and diffusing a scent of burnt bunker fuel through the valley. Moreover, I can imagine more charming fjord villages. Therefore, I advise against overnighting there, at least not within Flåm itself. For after the legendary train ride and an hour of nosing around, the village exhausts its novelty. Therefore, allow me to recommend a few lodgings in close proximity, possessing unique character and, importantly, unburdened by hordes of tourists. 29|2 Aurland is a small-scale boutique hotel, family-run, and strategically positioned. Nestled in an elongated valley with a deep blue river and stunning steep slopes, it's a mere fifteen-minute drive from Flåm. The hotel boasts an incredibly tasteful décor, marked by meticulous attention to detail. The hospitality extends to guests with a sense that each arrival is the first. Culinary offerings are nothing short of artistry, with beautifully presented dishes featuring fresh, top-tier ingredients. If you possess a musical talent, feel free to inquire about playing a piece by Chopin on the grand piano gracing the communal dining hall. And beware, due to limited availability, rooms have a tendency to sell out long in advance and for good reason. In a wholly different category lies the Lindstrøm Hotel in Lærdal. The wondrous blend of tradition and modernity bestows upon the hotel a uniquely captivating character. The breakfast is sumptuous and outstanding. However, the reason for singling out this establishment lies primarily in its location. Lærdalsøyri is a beautiful small former trading post with roots deeply embedded in the medieval era. The charming sight of wooden houses along Øyragata sparks the imagination, standing in stark contrast to the moored cruiseships in Flåm. For those seeking more privacy, eschewing the standard hotel routine, I present an excellent recommendation—a remarkable 'treehouse' named the Raven Nest , inspired by traditional stave church architecture. Sleep amidst the treetops, equipped with all comforts. Breakfast arrives in a box, crafted by a local caterer, featuring locally sourced and exceptionally high-quality ingredients. Utterly romantic. Overall, I would advise you to book a fjord cruise that includes Nærøyfjorden and the Stegastein lookout. In that sense one covers the most exceptional highlights of the area. And I speak from first-hand experience!
- Read: salmon on your sushi and 13 other Norwegian inventions you didn't know about
Once upon a time, there was a Viking... That's how I could easily introduce this article. Indeed, there was once a Viking who discovered that when you look through a piece of moonstone under a cloudy sky, you can still see where the sun is, making navigation and course-keeping much easier when the sky above the Atlantic Ocean is covered with dense clouds. Although there is no direct evidence, this seemingly simple invention appears to be the reason Vikings successfully sailed the previously unknown seas and discovered entire continents, such as present-day North America and Greenland. This very invention inspired me to write a small tribute article about inventions made by Norwegians, or inventions made in Norway...or inventions with a Norwegian origin. Yes indeed, I need to widen the criteria a little bit but that makes the list more entertaining. Let it be an encouragement to do some exploring on your own. Here we go! 1. Cheese Slicer (Ostehøvel) : The modern cheese slicer was invented by the Norwegian carpenter Thor Bjørklund in 1925. It has since become a widely used kitchen tool worldwide. Occasionally, a rather shouty Dutch person may stand up and loosely claim it to be a Dutch invention, but that cheesehead can take a seat again because it's truly a Norwegian invention. Sit please! 2. A-ha's "Take On Me" Music Video Technique : The groundbreaking animation and live-action combination in A-ha's famous "Take On Me" music video from 1985 was developed by Norwegian artist and animator Michael Patterson. While the song itself stormed the global charts, the music video made an equally significant impression for those with a refined taste. 3. Oil Platform Technology : Norway is a pioneer in offshore oil and gas extraction. The country has developed advanced technologies for deep-sea drilling and platforms, significantly contributing to the global oil and gas industry. As this is a blog, and I'm allowed to express opinions, I hope these technologies will soon be used to halt the dramatic warming of the planet. However, according to the Norwegian government, we should continue burning fossil fuels because 'it's not that bad.' 4. Salmon Farming Techniques : Norway is a leading country in salmon farming and has developed innovative techniques for aquaculture. The country's expertise in fish farming has had a significant impact on the global fishing industry. However, this technique is controversial, to say the least. The industry around farmed fish is quite repugnant. Ecosystems suffer tremendously from the hormones, heavy metals, and antibiotics that end up in the seawater. Additionally, the living conditions for the salmon are deplorable. Furthermore, the health effects of these heavy metals on humans (NOT HEALTHY) are questionable. 5. Sonar Technology : In the early 20th century, the Norwegian scientist and inventor Carl August Bockish made significant contributions to the development of sonar technology, essential for underwater navigation and communication. 6. The Paperclip (not the one that became a massive succes) : Although the invention of the paperclip is often attributed to Johan Vaaler, a Norwegian patent officer, it should be noted that the design he patented in 1899 wasn't the one that became popular. Nevertheless, his contribution to the early development of the paperclip is acknowledged. I wouldn't mind being remembered for doing an almost legendary invention. 7. Kongsberg Target Systems : Kongsberg Gruppen, a Norwegian defense and aerospace company, has developed advanced target systems for military training. These systems are used worldwide by armed forces for shooting exercises and simulations. 8. Norsk Hydro's Aluminum Production Process : In the early 20th century, the Norwegian company Norsk Hydro developed an innovative method for aluminum production. This method, known as the Birkeland–Eyde process, has been of great importance to the global aluminum industry and, in retrospect, of enormous value. 9. Moonstone navigation : As I mentioned earlier, the evidence is not entirely conclusive. But there is a strong suspicion that moonstone helped the Vikings navigate on the open sea when it was particularly cloudy. You can locate the sun when it's cloudy, which is extremely useful when trying to sail across the Atlantic Ocean. Moonstone is actually a type of gemstone that belongs to the feldspar mineral group. It is known for its distinctive adularescence, a phenomenon where the gem appears to display a milky glow or shimmering light, reminiscent of the moon's soft glow. This optical effect is caused by light scattering between microscopic layers of feldspar within the stone. Voila! 10. Bluetooth : This is pure clickbait, of course. Because I'm talking about the Bluetooth symbol. Bluetooth itself was invented by a mishmash of inventive companies from Sweden and Finland. But the symbol comes from Harald Bluetooth. He was a Viking king known for uniting Denmark and parts of Norway during his reign. The Bluetooth symbol, a bind rune merging the initials of Harald Bluetooth in Nordic runes, was created by combining the runes 'Hagall' (H) and 'Bjarkan' (B). It's a bit of cheating, but you'll have to deal with it. 11. Kon-Tiki : It can't be considered a true invention, but it's noteworthy. In 1947, Thor Heyerdahl demonstrated that it was possible to cross the Pacific Ocean using ocean currents with a reasonably simple raft, thereby proving that pre-Columbian South American cultures could have settled in Polynesia, contrary to the prevailing belief that the islands were originally populated by people from Asia. 12. Salmon on Sushi : Sushi has been around for a while, but salmon on sushi is a different story. The introduction of salmon in sushi is often and rightly credited to a Norwegian named Bjørn Eirik Olsen. In the 1980s, he worked in the seafood industry and recognized the potential of Norwegian salmon in the Japanese sushi market. He introduced the concept of using salmon in sushi to Japanese chefs, and it was met with approval and became popular. And now, the whole world enjoys 'Norwegian' sushi. Well, the salmon, at least. 13. Rottefella Binding : A Norwegian invention that may not be well-known globally is the Rottefella binding. Rottefella is a Norwegian company founded in 1927, and they developed the first ski binding with a toe binding that could be opened with a pole. This binding revolutionized cross-country skiing, making it easier for skiers to manage descents and asc ents. The Rottefella binding became a standard for cross-country skis, and the company continues to develop new technologies for ski equipment. 14. The Ski : The origin of skiing dates back to ancient times and is believed to have originated in the region spanning modern-day Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Skiing was not so much invented as naturally developed as a form of transportation in snowy and mountainous areas. It's somewhat challenging to connect a direct geographical location to 'the invention.' But since the word "ski" itself comes from the Old Norse word "skíð," referring to a piece of wood or a ski, I'm inclined to believe that the development primarily took place in what is now Norway. Early evidence of skiing dates back to prehistoric times, and ancient petroglyphs and ski fragments have been found in the Nordic region. Skiing was crucial for hunting, transport, and communication in these snowy landscapes. While skiing as a practical skill likely predates recorded history, the modern sport of skiing began to take shape in Scandinavia. Norway, in particular, played a significant role in the development of skiing, and the word "slalom," used in ski racing, has a Norwegian origin.
- Destination: Norway on a shoestring; how to travel on a budget
Scandinavia has an image problem among many visitors, particularly when it comes to expenses. Hence, it seems apropos to impart a few refined suggestions for keeping the costs under control. Transportation In the event of contemplating the rental of a camper or car to traverse the landscapes of Norway, it would be judicious to initially scrutinize the current exchange rate of the Norwegian crown. As of the present writing, it registers modestly in relation to major global currencies. Consequently, opting to procure transportation within Norway often proves more economically prudent. Nevertheless, a discerning approach to price comparisons is advisable. For instance, one might opt to fly to Gothenburg (SE) and secure a rental car or campervan there, a choice that frequently yields considerable savings, especially when one plans to travel through Norway for more than a week. For those planning a sojourn in Oslo, the acquisition of an Oslo pass is a commendable consideration. This pass not only grants unfettered access to the city's public transportation but also extends privileges encompassing the majority of museums, select shops, restaurants, and various cultural performances held within the city, including those at the opera. In the case of air travel to Norway, diligent inquiry into airports serviced by budget airlines is recommended. Notably, carriers such as Wizzair and Ryanair facilitate direct routes to Oslo TORP. Accommodation For those possessing a penchant for adventure akin to my own, the prospect of free camping with a tent may be a tempting proposition. It is noteworthy that Norway, by law, allows camping virtually anywhere. Prudent familiarity with the pertinent regulations is advised of course. Alternatively, the option of effortlessly renting petite caravans presents itself, affording the opportunity to forgo opulent hotels while still enjoying accommodations in the most breathtaking areas. Otherwise, campsites often provide basic rental cabins. Food & Drink The realm of sustenance, in particular, is notorious for its potentially exorbitant nature, a phenomenon extending to both my own experiences and those of the average Norwegian. Major supermarkets unveil a section where items on the cusp of expiration are generously discounted. Additionally, the discerning traveler may wish to take note of the Holdbart stores, where products boasting extended shelf lives yet nearing their expiration date are offered at significant markdowns — an ideal solution for those embarking on familial camping escapades. En route in a van or camper, investing in essentials at such establishments is a prudent move. At petrol stations, resist the allure of snacks and sundries, as prices there tend to scale lofty heights. Instead, navigate towards the nearest village for a more indulgent experience, partaking in the delights of cinnamon buns, skoleboller, and hotdogs. For those undertaking journeys during the balmy summer or early autumn, a delightful encounter with roadside signage and stalls awaits. Frequently peddling fresh fruits, vegetables, or eggs, these makeshift markets present an opportunity to economize, all while imparting an ineffable charm to the gastronomic exploration. It is advisable to keep a modest sum of cash on hand, as these stands often operate on the honor system, allowing patrons to leave remuneration before claiming their selected goods.
- Stay: The 20 most distinguished luxury hotels in Norway
To commence, let me elaborate on the title. When one envisions a luxury hotel, the average reader might promptly think of 5-star establishments, towering structures in Dubai where a Rolls-Royce chauffeurs you to the entrance, and room service that knocks on your door within 5 minutes to deliver a vintage bottle of Krug Clos du Mesnil. I understand. But let us calibrate a bit here. Because I wish to take a slightly different approach. Norway truly is a different type of country, and I would like to redefine luxury because filtering based solely on star ratings will cause one to overlook the most extraordinary hotels on the most breathtaking locations. For me luxury is about a splendid location, attentative staff, amazing interiors, excellent food and a certain overall uniqueness. Therefore, I wish to present this splendid list that precisely adheres to my definition of luxury. In no particular order: 1. Hotel Union Øye 2. Juvet Landskap Hotel 3. Hotel Brosundet 4. Hotel Sommerro 5. Dalen Hotel 6. Eilert Smith Hotel 7. 29/2 Aurland 8. Hardanger Fjord Lodge 9. Tuddal Høyfjellshotel 10. Herangtunet Boutique Hotel 11. Britannia Hotel 12. Amerikalinjen 13. Hotel 1904 14. Erscheidergaarden 15. Storfjord Hotel 16. Hotel Mundal (currently under renovation) 17. Bergen Børs Hotel 18. Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel 19. Øyna Kulturlandskapshotel 20. Grand Hotel Oslo
- Destination: 4 yoga retreats in Norway amidst stunning surroundings
I confess. The title is a bit of an obvious choice, considering Norway's vastness and a population of only 5 million (and beautiful nature basically everywhere). No wonder most yoga retreats are situated in breathtaking locations. In this post, I'll take you through yoga retreats in Norway, each with its own character and identity. Allow me to introduce: Nøsen Yoga og Fjellhotel, Meretes Garden, Attme Have, and Venabu. Valdres It's no coincidence that I start with Nøsen Yoga and Fjellhotel . That's because I know the area where the hotel is located very well. Countless hikes and cross-country skiing afternoons in the area have left me somewhat biased towards the location. Valdres, as a region, is magical and diverse. Vast forests, marshlands, and impressive mountain ridges give this area a mysterious feel in any season. Nøsen has become a bit of an epicenter for the Norwegian yoga scene. The facilities are excellent, and there are numerous opportunities for organizing yoga events. They also have a well-filled calendar with various yoga-related activities throughout the year. Ålesund In the heart of one of the most spectacular areas of Norway lies Meretes Garden . You may have heard of Trollstigen or the Juvet Landskaps Hotel; they are all a stone's throw away. Merete has done it wonderfully; a huge greenhouse converted into a serene place where a large group can practice yoga. Accommodations are in beautiful glamping tents. And of course, there's that stunning rural setting with minimal distractions, allowing you to focus excellently on body and mind. This place is almost too good to be true, but it is true. Bardufoss It was challenging to determine if Attme Have is the world's northernmost yoga retreat. It could very well be because it is quite far above the Arctic Circle. As the name suggests, this yoga location is right by the sea. Not long ago, Leikny and Tom Edvardsen started their retreat, and it has since become a destination in itself. In addition to yoga classes and courses, you can thoroughly enjoy the breathtaking nature of Northern Norway here. Recently, you can stay in Aurora cabins. From your bed, you have a beautiful view of the sea, mountains, and sky (and the northern lights if you're here during the dark months). Additionally, Senja is not far away, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful islands in Norway. Rondane In the shadow of the beautiful Rondane area, you'll find Venabu . And something special is happening here. Because here, you can combine yoga and horseback riding. It's more natural than it sounds. Whether you're an experienced or a novice rider, you connect with the beautiful surroundings in a unique way. When you return after a few hours of riding, it's delightful to start a yoga class with a cleared mind. Venabu also offers Tai Chi and Qi Cong. If you want to send both your body and mind on vacation, this is the place. Are you running any yoga activities in Norway yourself? Let me know!
- Stay: 3 breathtaking out-of-the-ordinary boutique hotels in Norway
The term 'Boutique Hotel' has become a somewhat ubiquitous buzzword. Let us, therefore, promptly cast it aside, especially since we're in Norway. What truly captivates me is the incredible endeavor of those passionate individuals who, independent of major hotel-chains and in alignment with their distinctive vision and determination, venture to establish hotels. It is with great enthusiasm that I dedicate this article to three (Boutique) hotels in Norway, each having stolen my heart for essentially the same reason. These establishments are unequivocally unique, exuding exceptional hospitality and, not least, adorned with a profound sense of aesthetic allure—a sentiment articulated from the perspective of a former interior designer. Let us set off! 29 | 2 The narrative unfolds in a rather epic fashion. Within close proximity lies one of Europe's most awe-inspiring train journeys, a fjord of unparalleled beauty, the Lærdal Tunnel, the world's longest, and a myriad of other captivating features. It becomes evident that reserving a night at Hotel 29 | 2, named simply after the plot of land it graces, places one in the realm of a somewhat legendary levels. Commencing with the interior, it is best characterized as eclectic. Dispensing with the clichés of Scandinavian minimalism and stereotypical use of design classics, it presents a tasteful amalgamation of exquisite objects, textiles, and furnishings. The ten rooms, in total, represent a harmonious blend of colors, patterns, and materials, creating an ambiance that evokes an undeniable sense of homeliness. The same discerning eye for detail and refinement extends to the culinary offerings. Artfully presented dishes, predominantly sourced from local ingredients, transcend the gastronomic experience one might encounter in the finest dining establishments Norway has to offer. Strangely, the context enhances the flavors, rendering the dining experience even more exquisite. This hotel, naturally, boasts an array of modern amenities. Whether one chooses a brief sojourn or an extended midweek retreat, monotony is alleviated by a plethora of possibilities—stand-up paddleboards, a bubbling hot tub, and a charming menagerie of farm animals. The infectious enthusiasm and attentiveness of the staff contribute to an unforgettable experience. Formulating a conclusion proved to be a deliberative process. Yet, I find myself steadfast in the belief that Hotel 29 | 2 represents one of the most superlative sojourns available in Norway. This assertion is not predicated on the number of stars, gilded embellishments on culinary offerings, or ostentatious displays of pretentious wine bottles. Rather, it is the realization that 29 | 2 splendidly encapsulates the essence of Norway—modesty, warmth, groundedness, and loyalty. Hardanger Fjord Lodge To renovate, grow, blossom, harvest, ferment, grill, preserve, salt, and smoke – these are the (culinary) arts practiced at Hardanger Fjord Lodge. Beyond this, it also stands as a testament to the elevation of hospitality to an art form. Once again, I find myself immersed in a place so uniquely characterized that it transcends quantification in stars, existing only within the realm of experiences. In my estimation, this constitutes true luxury—not defined by stars or the dimensions of a room's television, but by the presence of a bed within an environment so unparalleled that no other establishment can rival it. The habitual considerations of star ratings and budget constraints, which often preoccupy travelers when selecting accommodations, find no relevance at Hardanger Fjord Lodge. With a mere nine rooms, the lodge remains perpetually uncluttered. Anticipate mingling with fellow travelers during set dinner times, thereby contributing to the singular charm of the experience—momentarily becoming part of an exclusive assemblage in an extraordinary setting. Attempting to articulate the tastefulness of the hotel's interior leaves me momentarily at a loss for words. The classic and historical attributes of the venue have been subtly elevated, eschewing nostalgia for a contemporary aesthetic. Sustainability, a prevailing ethos, permeates not only the fundamental elements within the rooms but extends to the meticulously curated breakfasts and dinners. In stark contrast to chain hotels with lofty sustainability proclamations, often discarding a significant portion of their breakfast buffets after 11:00 in the morning, Hardanger Fjord Lodge adheres to a principled approach—local products supporting the indigenous economy and society. In accordance with the lodge's ethos of savoring life's moments, the pace is deliberately unhurried, affording due attention to every detail. Åmot Should one aspire to luxuriate in rural splendor shielded from prying eyes, a correspondence with the proprietors of Åmot is in order. If, perchance, the producers of the forthcoming season of "The White Lotus" seek an 'exotic' locale, this setting is to be suggested. An even more sublime experience awaits those planning to celebrate with an intimate circle of friends or family. Åmot, exclusively available for reservation, does not readily accommodate the casual wanderer seeking impromptu sleepovers. A minimum reservation of three nights is required, and for good reason. The proprietors, Steinar and Yngve, distinguished by impeccable attire and manners, tailor each visitor's experience according to individual preferences. The spectrum of offerings knows no bounds—yoga classes, massages, private concerts, or chamber music performances are at the guest's disposal, if desired of course. The culinary offerings, masterfully crafted by an exceptional chef, and the libations, served with precision and care, contribute to an indulgent experience. I can't call it anything less. The indulgence at Åmot is not confined to the physical realm; it extends to the enchanting Norwegian landscape. Åmot orchestrates an idyllic dream vacation, with a plethora of meticulously organized activities and experiences. And then there is the interior—an endeavor to articulate it leaves me nearly speechless. The spaces at Åmot embody a rugged rural luxury seamlessly aligned with the surrounding landscape and local culture. Far from ostentatious, it is, in fact, the epitome of understated elegance. I venture to assert that Åmot transcends the conventional definition of a boutique hotel, yet I include it here owing to the sentiment expressed in my introduction. Because that's where it fits perfectly.
- Destination: the Swiss connection; how to get to Lofoten islands from... Zürich
It is tempting to jest about the multitude of Norwegian millionaires and billionaires who, in recent years, bid farewell to Norway, seeking refuge in Switzerland. Besides the Swiss flag, also the allure of favourable tax climates seems a big plus. For those fortunate individuals, news of direct flights from Zürich to Harstad in the summer of 2024, courtesy of 'Edelweiss Airlines,' may be little interest, because Norwegians with such means might prefer chartering private planes. Nonetheless, it's a boon for the Swiss , because how to get to Lofoten islands is no longer a question (and of course Germans, French, Americans, Chinese and Koreans are more then welcome too). Hence, I extend a warm welcome to the Swiss to this remarkable region. Keeping it simple, I dedicate this article to ten splendid accommodations across various price ranges and categories. By the end of this piece, I hope you find yourself making a choice, though it's doubtful, given the breathtaking allure of each and everyone of them (and no, it's not allowed to stay neutral). Here we go, in no particular order: 1. Svinøya Rorbuer These cabins have achieved legendary status, propelled by the rise of Instagram over the past decade. Everything you imagine about Norway is encapsulated here – red-painted wooden cottages in a rugged landscape with steep slopes and an icy blue sea. Traditional fishing sounds surround you – the lapping of water, seagull cries, and the clinking of anchor chains. Authentically immersed in the lifestyle, a stay at Svinøya Rorbuer introduces you to this captivating existence. Moreover, it serves as your one-stop-shop for a myriad of Arctic activities, from Northern Lights safaris to sauna visits, golf surfing (yes, you read that right), and fishing excursions. 2. Trevare Fabrikken Essentially a converted carpentry factory, this place buzzes with creative activity. What makes it special is, first and foremost, its location – right by the sea, with Bergen in the distance and an expansive sky overhead. It has become somewhat of an institution in Arctic Norway, a cultural hub hosting numerous concerts and events in the summer. The food is fantastic, and the entire atmosphere finds no equal in Norway. I've developed a bit of an affection for this place, and I believe you will too. 3. For big families For those traveling with a large family, sometimes a hotel may not be the ideal choice. If you desire relaxation without worrying about your children inconveniencing other vacationers, and you appreciate stunning nature and architecture, then this is your place. I sense a tinge of jealousy at the thought of your stay here next summer. 4. Spectacular Architecture Picture-perfect. That's what comes to mind for an architecture and interior enthusiast like me when I take in this place. The warmth of wood and the subtle minimalist design of this holiday cottage are impressive. But ultimately, it revolves around the surroundings, which are possibly even more breathtaking. Laupstad itself is a tiny hamlet on a calm bay. Don't spread the word, but there might be a pirate ship docking. 5. WonderInn Arctic For those seeking more privacy, I highly recommend the recently opened (September 2023) WonderInn Arctic. This tried-and-tested concept of beautifully furnished secluded cabins, boasting fantastic beds and, more importantly, enormous glass walls offering a splendid view of the polar night from your bed, is worth considering. Here, you sleep with your curtains open, so you don't miss a minute of the celestial spectacle. 6. Back to Basic and Cheap It's something humanity seems to yearn for more and more – a return to the essentials. What do you truly need? A roof over your head, a wood stove, some food, clean water, and good company. Maybe a cold beer after a long hike through the incredible wilderness. In all honesty, that's pure happiness for me. If you feel the same, then this is the place for you. 7. End of the World And by that, I mean the following. When you sail west, the first land you encounter is Greenland. When you sail north, it's Spitsbergen. Here, you immerse yourself in the coastal culture that has existed for thousands of years in this part of the world. The location is incredible in every way – the view, the tranquility, and the beautiful surroundings. Moreover, the guesthouse is cozy and intimate. 8. Tranøya Fate led me to discover Tranøya in the summer of 2023 – a small island just off the coast of Senja. Here, against the backdrop of an old church, stands a unique old farmhouse managed by two sisters who practically grew up here. They have transformed the island into a destination in itself. Besides blissful sleep accompanied by the gentle lapping of waves, this serves as your base from which to explore the breathtaking surrounding nature, embark on boat and fishing trips (did you know the world's best fishing waters around Senja?), partake in guided or independent ventures, and delve into the island's history. 9. S urfin' The cottage is situated near a pale white beach. And believe it or not, but this part of Norway is a genuine surfing destination. In fact, Unstad is the most northern surfing destination in the world. This imparts a uniquely pleasant atmosphere. There are always a few campers by the beach, and in the evenings, stories are shared around campfires. It is precisely for this reason that life has returned to Unstad. There has even been a documentary made about it. 10. A pearl in no-mansland Almost nobody lives here. Not unique to Norway, but unique in how you can be a part of that. This holiday home is not only wonderfully designed but also situated in a unique location. The panoramic view in all directions is stunning. Here, you stay in complete privacy with your family or a group of friends. But on one condition: that you occasionally refrain from touching your phone for an hour and only focus on the incredible nature and each other.
- Destination: you're leaving Oslo...with an original souvenir
It occasionally leaves a little skratch on my soul, yet comprehension accompanies it—the magnetic pull in Oslo shopping streets of plastic souvenir trolls manufactured on the other side of the planet, whimsical beanies with the Norwegian flag embroided on it, helmets bedecked with cow horns, and portions of Freja milk chocolate. You might find yourself in Oslo for just a day, pressed for time, and still desiring to procure a thoughtful and original souvenir for your malevolent stepmother in the optimistic anticipation that she might temper her unkindness in the future. Allow me to advise against it. Step-mothers, as a rule, remain unaltered. Therefore, reserve such considerate gestures for those genuinely warm-hearted stepmoms. Now, you foresee the trajectory of this article. I shall impart three recommendations for mementoes that distinctly embody Norwegian essence, eschewing any association with the prolific production of plastic trolls. My aspiration extends to fostering connections between you, the reader, and the exceptionally talented local Norwegian artists and producers. To commence, I direct your attention to Majorstuen—a sprawling district replete with dignified apartment blocks dating back to the late 19th century. Here, brandnew BMWs line the the sidewalkes. That's not due to the residents' lack of covered parking cellars but rather to the fact that covered parking is used for hibernating exclusive sports cars, sheltered from the terrors of snow and ice during winter. Teenagers meander the sidewalks with dangling Louis Vuitton bags, an acquisition incongruous with their presumably modest paper route earnings. Here you have it; a demographic snapshot of Majorstuen. Contrary to expectations, this locale does not embody an unpleasant milieu; quite the opposite. Abundant charming eateries, lunch spots, and Bogdstadveien, one of the nation's lengthiest shopping avenues, adorn the vicinity. Concealed in a secluded alley, distanced from the reverberating sports cars, lies a delightfully enchanting boutique: "Too Many Prints." Herein lies an extensive array of exceedingly original prints, frequently produced in limited quantities. Ranging from graphically stylised depictions of iconic city landmarks to abstract monochromatic compositions, the assortment caters to diverse tastes. My personal sojourn, embarked with the intention of finding a print for my new apartment, transpired over approximately 1.5 hours, marked by a perpetual grin. Regrettably, I departed empty-handed, paralysed by indecision. Too many prints! If Majorstuen seems a considerable distance, reconsider! Chances are, you're already in proximity to explore the imposing Frogner Park (that park replete with statues). So do pop by there and be amazed. Subsequently, we venture towards a whimsical shop situated on the periphery of one of Oslo's most congenial neighbourhoods—Grunnerløkka, or colloquially referred to as 'Løkka.' Here, an assortment of amusing t-shirts, handmade soap, charming prints, hoodies, and more beckon. Moreover, Skaperverket nestles amidst an array of beguiling (vintage) stores, coffee establishments, and lunch venues. Half a century ago, it might strain credulity that this area was Oslo's most destitute and dodgy quarter, characterized by rampant poverty and pervasive public alcohol abuse. Such a scenario is almost unimaginable today, with the contemporary tableau featuring stylish dudes donning rolled-up beanies and complicated sneakers, sipping latte-frappe-drinketies-with-vegan-milk with an effortless and elegant nonchalance. Nevertheless, it undeniably stands as the city's most congenial neighbourhood, day and night. Our final recommendation lies in proximity to Skaperverket—a fervent endorsement for the Sunday market at Blå . Beyond its association with ingeniously repurposed industrial heritage, the environs surrounding Blå warrant exploration. Crossing the bridge leads directly onto the terrace of Blå, a delightful spot for summertime repose with a refreshing pint in hand. This locale also hosts captivating concerts on occasion. However, Sundays bring forth a vibrant market experience. What awaits you here? Virtually everything. Superb ceramics, exquisite handcrafted items, soap, jewellery, gastronomic delights, (vintage) clothes, art—each item a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of Norwegian creatives. One could easily invest an hour here, if only to marvel at the impeccably attired visitors. Should the desire for that plastic troll persist, you have my blessing. Nonetheless, my intent is to perhaps spark a desire for something else. Have fun and do share the contents of your suitcase with me...or the souveniers you're brining home. I'm curious (.. and on Instagram ).
- Destination: the capital city of a country you probably know very little of; Oslo
You've landed here because you might know very little or perhaps nothing at all about the capital of Norway, Oslo. As a writer, it's a bit challenging for me to fathom. I've lived in Europe my entire life, and for the past eight years, I've called Norway my home. That's why I'd love to offer you a brief introduction to this small yet remarkable capital city; Oslo. Let's start with some historical tidbits: Viking Age : Oslo's origins date back to the Viking Age, known as "Kaupangen," serving as a marketplace and meeting point. Apart from documented sources, our knowledge is enriched by numerous excavations done during recent upgrades on the city, unearthing artifacts from the 10th to 12th centuries. Founded in the 11th Century: King Harald Hardrada laid the foundation of Oslo in the early 11th century. By the year 1300, it had evolved into the capital of Norway. Akershus Fortress: Construction of the Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle, began in 1299 to shield the city from external threats, playing a pivotal role in Oslo's defense throughout the centuries. The Black Death: Like many European cities, Oslo faced the devastating impact of the Black Death in the 14th century, leading to a significant population decline. Union with Denmark: In 1397, Norway joined the Kalmar Union with Denmark and Sweden, lasting until 1814. During this era, Oslo's influence dwindled, and the city endured fires and plagues. Fires and Rebuilding: Oslo experienced destructive fires in 1624 and 1686, prompting a decision to relocate and rebuild at its present location. The new city was named after King Christian IV of Denmark; thus, Christiania was born. Union with Sweden: Post-Napoleonic Wars, Norway entered a union with Sweden in 1814 after the Treaty of Kiel, with Christiania retaining its status as the capital during this period. Independence and the Name Oslo: Norway peacefully dissolved its union with Sweden in 1905, gaining independence. In 1925, the city officially reverted to its original name, Oslo. World War II: Oslo faced German occupation during World War II. The resistance was active, and the Norwegian government sought refuge in London. As in many European cities, little remains of the once-thriving Jewish population, with a significant influx in the late 19th century fleeing increasing antisemitism across Europe. Post-War Reconstruction: After the war, Oslo underwent extensive reconstruction and modernization, reshaping its skyline with new buildings and infrastructure. Contemporary Oslo is, by Norwegian standards, a sprawling city. Yet, in an international context, it's more akin to a borough. When you're there, it feels cozy and inviting. Here are some facts about modern Oslo: Population: Oslo is Norway's most populous city, with over 700,000 inhabitants, rising to around 1,000,000 when considering the suburbs. It's also the fastest-growing city in Europe. Government: Oslo serves as the political and economic hub of Norway, housing the Norwegian government and monarchy. Government meetings take place in Stortinget , and the monarchs reside in a grand palace in the heart of the city. Cultural Hub: The city is a vibrant cultural center, boasting numerous museums, galleries, and theaters. Tons of amazing restaurants, eateries and bars make Oslo a very enjoyable place to spend a number of days. Notable institutions include the Munch Museum , dedicated to the renowned Norwegian painter Edvard Munch and the newly opened and rather spectacular Nasjonal Museet . Green Spaces: Oslo is renowned for its abundance of greenery. Numerous parks dot the city, with Frogner Parken , featuring the iconic Vigeland Sculpture Park, being one of the most famous. Additionally, wooded hills surround the entire city, providing a popular retreat for locals. Holmenkollen: The Holmenkollen Ski Jump stands as a prominent landmark and hosts international ski competitions. The adjacent Holmenkollen Ski Museum delves into the history of skiing, and offering a lift to the top for a breathtaking view of the city and surroundings. Harbour and Waterfront: Oslo's harbor and waterfront buzz with trendy restaurants, bars, and shops. Over the past decades, Oslo has added several architectural landmarks, including the Opera House, the new library, the Munch Museum, and the iconic 'Barcode'—a collection of striking modern buildings that have permanently altered Oslo's skyline. A large number of public saunas are floating around the harbour, having revived the sauna culture in the capital. Royal Palace: The Royal Palace is a significant landmark and serves as the official residence of the Norwegian monarch in the city. Additionally, the royals own several estates just outside the city, including those on Bygdøy , an island adjacent to Oslo. Education: Oslo houses prestigious educational institutions, including the University of Oslo, Norway's largest and oldest university. The education system in Norway is well-structured, with affordable higher education accessible to all. Economy: The city boasts a robust economy, driven by industries such as maritime trade, finance, and technology. Norway's exports of oil, gas, fish, and electricity contribute to a thriving tech and financial sector. Transportation: Oslo features an excellent and efficient public transportation system , including buses, trams, and a metro network. While the city is known for its extensive cycling infrastructure, Norwegians primarily use public transport due to the city's significant elevation changes. I sincerely hope you'll visit us someday. It's precisely the reason I've taken to writing about my beloved country, Norway.
- Destination: street art and the best pizza in Oslo; and plenty more reasons to spend a day in Tøyen
The name 'Tøyen' finds its roots in Old Norse, connoting 'manure' or 'natural meadow,' a nod to the farm bearing the same name. Some remnants of this farm still endure and likely constitute Oslo's oldest preserved wooden structures, now nestled in what we presently know as the botanical gardens. Present-day Tøyen is an assorted tapestry of edifices spanning nearly every decade of the prior century. This district, interwoven with industrial heritage and typical late 19th-century apartment complexes, exhibits the most varied aesthetic, mirroring its diverse demographic. Tøyen plays host to a diverse array of residents – students, seniors, creatives, immigrants, drunks, and even the less salubrious characters, courtesy of a substantial prison. Despite outward appearances, it exudes an uncommonly agreeable ambiance, and I would be delighted to guide you through some of my cherished spots worth exploring (having resided in Tøyen for about a year). Embark on your Tøyen day with a sojourn to Håndbakt (Hand-Baked). They graciously open their doors as early as 8:00 AM, presenting delectable breakfast and lunch offerings. Arguably, the city's finest coffee may be found here, though I'll leave that for open discussion. Situated in one of the ancient factory structures erected during the industrial revolution, amidst the contemporary urban idyll, it's challenging to envision the erstwhile smoking chimneys. Regardless, this venue is an exemplary choice for breakfast and lunch. For those daring souls, consider complementing your (early) lunch with a glass of exquisite, unfiltered natural wine. As they say, you only live once. On a summery day, the botanical gardens offer an oasis of serenity and verdancy. It's a delightful locale to unwind amidst myriad splendid trees and plants, taking respite from urban adventures while sipping coffee beneath centuries-old trees. Alongside the venerable plant greenhouses lies the Natural History Museum . Among its treasures, my preferred exhibit showcases thousands of minerals, gemstones, and fossils – truly captivating. I was unaware of the immense diversity of unearthed and sculpted treasures throughout history. A culminating visit within the botanical gardens is the Klimahuset , unveiled a few years ago, serving as a pivotal space where impressive and interactive exhibits underscore the monumental challenges confronting humanity. If ruminating on these challenges has whet your appetite, allow me to suggest Pillefyken for a simple yet exquisite lunch. Their menu features modest, shareable dishes crafted with unparalleled quality, predominantly embracing greens, legumes, and various other vegetarian delights. The ingredients are of the highest calibre, and their eclectic wine selection beckons you to partake in daytime indulgence. Recently, the Munch Museum relocated to the banks of the Oslo fjord, housed in a building that spurred significant discourse. Some say the interior resembles Copenhagen Airport. The erstwhile Munch Museum perseveres in Tøyen, having, until recently, drawn swarms of tourists. Now, Gamle Munch (former Munch) has diversified into various artistic expressions, rendering it more enthralling. Furthermore, the air of exclusivity has waned. It encompasses everything from exhibitions to music and theatre. Check their calendar to discern if any event piques your interest. Behind the prison walls (geographically spoken) lies Njokobok Restaurant , distinguished by three characteristics. Firstly, it stands as a Senegalese restaurant, a rarity in itself, let alone in a Scandinavian capital. The menu unmistakably reflects West African (Senegalese) cuisine, featuring grilled or fried fish and delightful vegetables. The ambiance evokes the imagination of a coastal setting, with wooden fishing boats, a fleeting sunset, and bustling activity. If you can order freshly squeezed baobab juice, consider me already transported to a different realm. Njokobok is presided over by a charismatic figure – a charming man sporting a greying beard and a black bowler hat. I possess a particular fondness for such establishments, and I ardently hope Njokobok remains a gem for years to come. For the most delectable pizza in Oslo, venture to Postkontoret . As the name implies, it once functioned as a post office during the time Oslo was dreary and shadowy. Now, it has metamorphosed into a communal space, perfect for enthusiasts of board games, Tinder dates, pub quizzes, performances by obscure bands, and, of course, those exceptionally tasty pizzas – with the Burrata Puttanesca standing as my perennial favourite. Having exhausted the offerings at Postkontoret, one of Oslo's cosiest pubs awaits just across the street. It epitomises the local pub you might have dreamt of having in your neighbourhood. No prolonged queues, no bouncer exuding testosterone with a shaved head – none of the stereotypical trappings. The ceiling is adorned with thousands of 'Wunderbaums.' After an evening dulled by alcohol, a decision was seemingly made by happenstance to embrace a Soviet-like theme, and calling the bar 'Glasnost' after Mikhail Gorbachev's policy changings. And it makes sense. It's transperant what they do! They're a bar! The two lads behind the bar are always up for a jest, and they proffer homemade infused vodka – vodka with a unique flavour for the uninitiated. Delish! Further enhancing Tøyen's appeal is its street art. 'The Treasure Hunter' from 2012 holds my utmost favour. Most of the artworks are splendidly illuminated, imparting a wholly different dimension to an evening stroll through Tøyen. Immense gratitude to Visit Oslo for crafting an exceptionally convenient map, ensuring no outdoor artwork goes unnoticed. Should your sojourn in Tøyen extend to an overnight stay, the only recourse may be a clandestine stint in the cell of the brutalist police station meaning one would have to break the law somehow. Oddly, Tøyen lacks noteworthy accommodation options. Nevertheless, within walking distance lies Barcode, a relatively recent addition to Oslo's skyline, delineated by angular and architectural 'stripes.' Hence its moniker 'Barcode.' Evenings here are eerily tranquil, affording a restful night's sleep in one of the many apartments with breathtaking views available for rent. It's certainly worth a look ! Otherwise, pick one of Oslo's 10 best hotels .
- Eat: My favourite Asian restaurants in Oslo
Sometimes, I still yearn for Amsterdam, particularly for its immense diversity. Especially in Amsterdam East, where I resided for years, every 10 meters you'd encounter a different eatery. From Javanese to Jordanese, and from Cantonese to Iraqi—packed within 130 nationalities; what opulence. Yet, I must confess, nearly all my favourite dishes hail from Asia. Thankfully, in Oslo, multiple migrant groups have settled, unlocking the door to 'the East'. To somewhat elevate immigrants and the cultural and culinary richness they bring along, it seemed fitting to guide you through my favourite Asian restaurants in Oslo, listed randomly as they're truly all worthwhile. Listen to Baljit Baljit, son of an Indian immigrant, acquainted Norway with the vast richness and variety of Indian cuisine in the late 1980s. Continuing his father's tradition, he honed his skills as a chef. 'Listen to Baljit' became the moniker of his restaurant. Opting to focus on street food—dishes purchasable directly from food stalls—he crafted an extensive menu featuring diverse small dishes sourced from various regions of India. I emphasize this because the diversity within India is immense; failing to acknowledge it would do the Indian cuisine a disservice. I dare say this is one of the finest Indian restaurants in Oslo. At least, I've dined there thrice, and each time was superb. The ambiance is informal, prices somewhat manageable. The dishes boast excellent quality, taking the concept of comfort food to another level. Izakaya Navigating the fine line of aligning aesthetics with cuisine can often lead to a themed restaurant. However, the opposite holds true at Izakaya. Although I've never been to Japan, the credibility emanating from this tiny basement eatery is impressive. The dark wooden ceiling, decorations, and an overall curated shabbiness immediately transport you to another realm. The youthful servers exude friendliness, suggesting they're all part of an indie band in their spare time, evident from the uniquely dressed twentysomethings with challenging tattoos and canvas bags populating the bar stools. The menu is compact, each dish, in its simplicity, a masterpiece. Noodles so firm they could bounce back if dropped. The shiitake is delightful, don't overlook the spinach cheese pancake. And don't forget a glass of warm sake and sesame ice cream for dessert. If you're not convinced yet; it's always bustling, no reservations accepted. So, arrive early, or enjoy a beer at the bar while waiting. Yum Cha Hong Kong conjures up fantastical imagery. Again, a place this humble blogger has never set foot in. Yet, I feel somewhat acquainted through Yum Cha, an outstanding restaurant specializing in typical Hong Kong dishes. Firstly, the interior is stunning. Dim sum is naturally popular in Hong Kong and is served at Yum Cha. However, the precisely prepared Cantonese dishes are truly masterful. I made the mistake of ordering too much when dining with another couple. Underestimating the satiating quality, the table was laden with steam baskets, bowls, and plates. Miraculously, everything was devoured. My favorite was the garlic pak choi and the fried shrimp balls. Yes, and of course, the amazing dim sum. Yum Cha is somewhat concealed in a street rarely frequented by tourists. However, believe me, it's worth taking the metro or tram to Majorstuen. Golden Chimp Situated at a corner of two streets in the Grønland district, embodies the most 'international' essence of Oslo, subtly reflecting the rich diversity of ethnicities shaped by past armed conflicts. Personally, I find solace in such areas, though I understand not everyone shares this sentiment. Inside Golden Chimp, a wondrous experience awaits. The walls sparingly adorned with kitschy artifacts, peculiar images, and the occasional odd primate. This brings me to the name: Golden Chimp. While unsure of its origin, it brought to mind that (perhaps ugly but groundbreaking) artwork by Jeff Koons, featuring the likeness of Michael Jackson and that peculiar little monkey, found in the Astrup Fearnley Museum in Oslo. Overall, it somewhat resembles a fusion of a senior citizen center in a Chinese city suburb and a roadside eatery in a Soviet country. In essence, here you dine on the most delightful and extraordinary dumplings. The ingredients used are excellent and sometimes surprising. I would say these are the best in Oslo, if not in Norway. While unafraid of experimentation, they firmly stay within the boundaries of what I'd describe as comfort food. Dalat Absolutely fantastic. Let's start with that. If you're acquainted with Vietnamese cuisine, this will be a feast of recognition. If not, you'll never desire anything else after Dalat. What's splendid about Vietnamese cuisine is the marvelous mix of fresh and raw vegetables, herbs, and savory flavors. The blend of taste, aroma, and texture renders it incredibly satisfying. Thankfully, a relatively large Vietnamese minority resides in Norway, ensuring a constant demand for excellent Vietnamese fare. The eatery itself hardly garners attention, despite its prime location in the city center. But that's alright. Those who frequent here know of its existence as they've been here for the 8th time. Expect no influencer-friendly ambiance; it's truly about the food here. The interior feels somewhat bare but certainly adds to the authenticity. The people running the place are just the sweetest you'll ever meet. Opt for classics like Pho and fresh spring rolls. Oh, and it's not overly pricey. Also pleasing. Koie Ramen There's a stark difference between ramen and ramen. With the popularity of the Japanese noodle dish, numerous ramen shops have emerged, some with questionable quality. However, what's crucial with ramen are the noodles. Particularly that they're fresh and firm. In fact, entire Netflix documentaries are dedicated to the perfect noodle. Let them deal with that; the point is, Koie Ramen has consistently surprised me with the quality of their ramen. I dare say they make the best in Oslo, perhaps evidenced by the recent opening of a second branch. And precisely that second one appeals to me greatly. It's never crowded, the kitchen always bustling, perfect for a quick bite. The new branch is near the new Munch Museum, yet despite the prime location, few are aware of its existence. As mentioned, excellent ramen and swift service! Happolati Perhaps a tad pricey, but worth every penny, considering this might be one of Oslo's premier Asian fusion restaurants. I have no vested interest, having dined there only once, but it was an experience. Surprising dishes, excellent service, and a stunning interior, though subject to debate. As a former interior designer, I have a penchant for beautiful places, and this is one such gem. Andersen & Voll crafted the design, offering a splendid interpretation of Japanese and Scandinavian design while maintaining the grandeur of the establishment. Nonetheless, you're here for the menu. Presented in 6 or 8 courses. For me, 6 courses are more than sufficient, especially when paired with a wine package. Head here for a date; you'll be pampered. Katla Finally, we come to an exceptionally unique restaurant that scarcely fits within any typical category. The proof of this can be found immediately on TripAdvisor, as this establishment is not everyone's cup of tea. Complaints range from informal service to graffiti in the restrooms and an unusual taste in music. However, this is not a place for businessmen in suits or a certain type of tourist who expects everything to be served on a silver platter. In my view, the service here is actually quite brilliant. It is highly personal, exceptionally skilled, and indeed very laid-back but in a positive manner. Each dish is a highly creative explosion of flavours, inspired by Asian cuisine. Call it fusion if you like; I don't mind. I enjoyed a seven-course meal and was blown away just about seven times. The restaurant itself looks fantastic, boasting impressive artwork, large glass panels, and an overall raw character. And yes, hip-hop was playing. If you appreciate (pleasant) surprises although I blew most of them by now, do dine at Katla.
- Destination: where the elves live, and a moose (close to Besseggen)
This recommendation a bit unusual amidst the vast expanse of this esteemed blog. It's nothing more than a leisurely stroll lasting a mere hour and a half. Yet, if I were to skip sharing it, you would surely miss out on this hidden gem without a second thought and drive right past it. Most tourists head to Besseggen, a place that needs no introduction for good reason of course (and please do go there and enjoy the remarkable views). But when one continues from Beitostølen and make your way across the lofty Valdresflye plateau—an adventure in itself—you'll eventually descend into a lower area. Surrounded by ancient, weathered summer farms, lush pastures, and clusters of evergreen groves, you'll spot a small car park on the right side, beyond which a bridge awaits. This is the place you're looking for: Hulderstigen. The reason I want to capture this destination in words is that its allure has left an indelible mark on my consciousness, even though it's hard to describe. I first witnessed its wonders during the summer, as twilight gently descended, and we decided to go on a leisurely walk. The light had a golden hue, and the atmosphere was wonderfully calm. The paths wind through diverse landscapes, and the flora showcases an abundance of variations. There are rivulets and streams flowing, as well as peat bogs and peaceful ponds scattered across the scenery. Because of its topography, nestled in a valley of sorts, the woodland creatures there seem to stand taller than their counterparts elsewhere. It brings to mind the realm depicted in Tolkien's masterpiece, The Lord of the Rings. As we ventured through this expanse, we felt like lone adventurers, hoping for a fleeting glimpse of a majestic moose. These magnificent creatures usually appear in the fading hours of the afternoon to feed and quench their thirst. Sadly, we didn't come across one on this occasion. We spent around 2.5 hours in sheer awe, marveling at the unimaginable beauty embraced by this small haven of nature. It's a detour that absolutely deserves your attention. I want to back, really. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport doesn't really get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Stay: a hidden gem of a restaurant in Kristiansand that Norwegians prefer to keep for themselves
What springs to mind when you contemplate Kristiansand? Presumably, naught at all. When I disclosed my intention to move there to my friends, their countenances remained quite... devoid of expression. Ah yes, Kristianstad (SE), indeed. Delightful. Moreover, one friend who had planned to visit me, in an unfortunate twist of fate, mistakenly bought a ticket to Kristiansund; a difference of one solitary letter, yet an entirely different place 400 kilometers away. To a certain extent, it is comprehensible. With the exception of the summer months, Kristiansand is rather introverted and appears unconcerned with the rest of the world, as the world seems equally unconcerned with Kristiansand. The summer entirely transforms the city's character though. Norwegian, German, Danish, and Dutch tourists populate the numerous terraces in great numbers, while multiple festivals concurrently take place. However, once you venture beyond the city center, tourists are virtually non-existent. This brings me to the subsequent point. Situated approximately 20 kilometers from the city center and merely 5 kilometers from Kristiansand Airport, lies an extraordinarily unique piece of land, nestled alongside a vigorously flowing river, where scarcely any tourist ever treads. And upon this parcel of land stands an ancient manor farmhouse and Michelin-star restaurant; Boen Gaard. Primarily a restaurant, it also offers accommodations. I first discovered it in 2018, a birthday surprise. In the heart of Kristiansand, I was instructed to embark upon a taxi van (later discovering that Boen Gaard has a deal, allowing one to avail oneself of the taxi at a fraction of the price, thus reducing the threshold). It being mid-February, visibility was severely hindered. Departing from the city center, we traversed the highway, ostensibly heading towards what I presumed to be the airport. However, we swiftly veered right onto a narrow country lane. Subsequently, I discerned, in the distance, an illuminated driveway adorned with torches. Our destination had been reached. Upon entering, I found myself cascading from one astonishment to another. The initial surprise was that we were the sole two patrons, indicating that a lone chef, a solitary dishwasher, and a solitary waiter had roused themselves solely for our presence that day. The second surprise was the fact that, despite residing in Kristiansand for four years, I had never heard of this place, undeniably the finest restaurant in Kristiansand. Moreover, one steps into a sort of oasis emanating 17th-century grandeur (despite Boen Gaard's royal history stretching back even further). The attending waiter graciously provided us with a comprehensive tour of the entire edifice, thus augmenting the entire experience. Boen Gaard prides itself, almost without exception, on locally sourced produce, with the salmon even caught directly from the river coursing alongside the farmhouse. The dishes are unpretentious yet exquisitely presented, embodying honesty. Furthermore, the staff possesses an exceptional wealth of knowledge regarding the ingredients employed. The wine selection, too, appears to have been painstakingly curated. Nonetheless, it remains a source of amusement to hear a Norwegian utter the name of a French vineyard; Buuurrgooenge. Be that as it may, discourse concerning food never truly captures its essence. Instead, ensure to reserve a table with accommodations long ahead of your visit to Kristiansand and experience it yourself. It constitutes an unforgettable experience that irrevocably alters one's perception of Norwegian gastronomy. And have them inform you about the taxi-deal. Boen Gaard really is a hidden gem in Kristiansand that Norwegians rather keep for themselves, in which they almost succeeded. Going there? Read the piece I wrote on what I would do having to spend one day in Kristiansand.