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  • Destination: the Truman Show; when in Sørlandet

    The first time I was in Sørlandet, I couldn't help but recall the Truman show. Especially when I began exploring the coastline. The small sleepy coastal villages with white wooden houses where time seems to have stood still are so picturesque that it sometimes appears too beautiful to be true. Especially after just immigrating, I had to pinch myself occasionally to ensure I wasn't dreaming. One of these places where I still have that feeling is the archipelago off the coast of Lillesand and Grimstad. On one of these islands lies Brekkestø . Brekkestø is a mini-village with fewer than 100 inhabitants. There is a particularly popular ice cream shop that is always busy, some local art is sold, and it is mainly the cute fishermen's houses, rose bushes, and the view of the numerous small islands that give this place a touch of magic. When you've had your fill and are in need of a cup of coffee, I highly recommend Brekkekjærhaven Kulturkafe . The café is housed in a beautiful white wooden house, with a large lawn in front adorned with tables, a few picnic benches, and some quirky artworks. There's a good chance that a red cat will be lounging at the entrance, willingly accepting pets. The cakes here are homemade and taste absolutely fantastic. Take a look at the shop as well. They have lovely local souvenirs. If you wish to stay in Brekkestø, I wholeheartedly recommend booking a few nights in this wonderful holiday cottage on Justøy . The romantic location near the sea will make you never want to leave. That also means it's often booked in the summer, so make sure to book well in advance. If everything is fully booked, you'll also feel right at home in this tiny house in Grimstad , just a village away. It's incredibly picturesque and equally romantic situated on a 'småbruk' which means something like small farm. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Kristiansand Airport (KRS). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: a personal story on the benefits of regular sauna visits

    I've previously compiled a rather extensive list of fantastic saunas in Norway . However, I'd like to delve a bit further into the benefits it brings to your physical and mental health. I visit the sauna at least 2-3 times per week, in sessions of about 1,5 hour. To answer the question on how long you should stay in a sauna; it's a bit personal and depending on the heat. I usually take between 10-15 min before I jump into the ice-cold waters of the Oslo-fjord. Much longer than 15 min is not recommended. I actually wrote a rather personal story for PUST on how the sauna helped me to recover from a burn-out. But I'd understand if you're not here for any personal notes. So here's a concise overview of what regular sauna visits could mean for you and your health. Of course, everyone reacts differently, so it's essential to assess beforehand whether the sauna is right for you. If you have asthma or heart conditions, it's advisable to consult your doctor first. Generally, though, sauna visits offer a myriad of physical and mental benefits. Let us set off! Physical Benefits 1. Improved Circulation: Sauna heat widens blood vessels, promoting circulation. This can enhance blood flow to various body parts, potentially aiding in muscle recovery and reducing muscle pain. Better blood circulation is crucial for overall health, including brain function. 2. Muscle Relaxation: Sauna heat helps relax muscles, alleviating tension and promoting a sense of well-being. If you're into regular gym sessions, strenuous work, or frequent cycling, a sauna visit is brilliant for muscle relieve. 3. Detoxification: Sauna-induced sweating helps eliminate toxins, primarily through the skin. This process can contribute to a sense of cleanliness and purification, removing substances like fine particles, microplastics, and cosmetic residues, while shedding dead skin cells faster. 4. Improved Cardiovascular Health: Regular sauna use may have cardiovascular benefits, including potential blood pressure reduction and overall heart health improvement. It can also contribute to better endothelial function, providing a gentle way to train and maintain a healthy heart. 5. Boosted Immune System: Some studies suggest that regular sauna sessions stimulate the production of white blood cells, crucial for the immune system. With regular sauna visits, you reduce the likelihood of colds and flu. 6. Pain Relief: Saunas can provide relief for various pains, including joint pain and discomfort associated with conditions like arthritis or fibromyalgia, offering relief as you age. 7. Improved Skin Health: Sauna heat and sweating contribute to healthier skin by opening pores, promoting circulation, and potentially aiding in the removal of dead skin cells. Mental Benefits 1. Stress Reduction: Sauna sessions induce a state of relaxation, reducing stress levels. The combination of heat and the calming environment contributes to an overall sense of well-being. 2. Improved Sleep: Sauna-induced relaxation can enhance sleep quality. The drop in body temperature after leaving the sauna can mimic the body's natural sleep-inducing process, lowering cortisol levels and addressing sleep disorders. 3. Mood Enhancement: Regular sauna use is associated with the release of endorphins, the body's natural feel-good chemicals. This can contribute to an improved mood and a sense of euphoria. 4. Cognitive Benefits: Some studies suggest that sauna use can positively impact cognitive functions, including memory and attention, with improved circulation to the brain playing a role in these cognitive benefits. 5. Social Interaction: Saunas are often communal spaces, providing opportunities for social interaction and forming connections, contributing to mental well-being. I am fortunate to be in Norway, where I can fully enjoy icy seawater and temperatures well below freezing. However, even in a more temperate climate, the positive effects of the sauna remain unchanged. No sauna nearby? Consider a weekend trip to Oslo!

  • Destination: the dark Norwegian spirit; the akevitt festival in Gjøvik

    In the bustling modern world, it seems people are navigating multiple challenges simultaneously. Practically every YouTube video comes with a plethora of disclaimers: 'Do not try this at home,' 'This is not financial advice,' 'Do not microwave your cat,’ etc. Well, I shall venture into this territory as well. Let it be known that I do not endorse alcohol consumption. Under the influence, one may find themselves falling in love with hideous individuals, grossly overestimating one’s own abilities tenfold, or even plunging their car into a pond. So, exercise caution with alcohol, alright? Also when visiting the Norwegian Akevitt Festival. The Norwegian national spirit is known as Aquavit (or akevitt), which can freely be translated as 'water of life.' It is most certainly not water, but it does add vivacity to the proceedings. What Aquavit is to Norway, tequila is to Mexico. The only difference lies in how it is consumed here, as if it were whisky. So, calmly. I still vividly recall my first encounter with Aquavit. I was on a long weekend trip with a group of Norwegians. As evening descended upon our holiday cabin, a variety of Aquavits made its way to the table for a tasting. I must confess that I wasn't immediately blown away, but perhaps it depended on the specific kind. About six months later, I was presented with another one, featuring more pronounced citrus and anise-like notes. And I believe that's when I was won over. In fact, whenever I now arrive at a Norwegian airport from abroad, I often can't resist bringing a bottle back from the duty-free shop (yes, the rumors are true: alcohol is expensive here). You can, of course, order an Aquavit or 'akevitt' at a bar, but it's even better to make your way to Gjøvik. In September, the Akevitt Festival takes place there, promising a delightful weekend brimming with culinary delights, cheerful company, and, of course, that beloved libation. This event truly stands as one of the annual highlights in Gjøvik, and I wholeheartedly recommend it. Gjøvik itself is a somewhat sleepy spot but holds a rich history concerning Akevitt. An important distillery once stood here, and the area was known for its lively smuggling trade across the nearby lake. If you decide to attend the festival, it's wise to book a hotel well in advance. Many people flock to the event. The most obvious choice is the Clarion Hotel in the vicinity. I’m going this year! Can’t wait really. On Friday, a special Akevitt train departs from Oslo , offering a delightful preview of what awaits you in Gjøvik. Once aboard, you'll be treated to samples of aquavit, delightful beers, and local delicacies to whet your appetite. As if that weren't enough, captivating lectures are even conducted during the journey. Furthermore, this presents an excellent opportunity to acquaint yourself with fellow visitors. This is Norway at its coziest! **If the train isn't your thing, an electric car is your second best option. But do not drink and drive! It's only a two hour drive away from Oslo. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to go electric. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Drink: where to taste the mythical Viking after-work-drink 'mead' (or mjød)?

    Let us embark upon dispelling at least one myth; mead was not invented by the Vikings. The identity of the pioneering brewer of the initial litre of mead remains somewhat shrouded in mystery. Were it the Chinese? The Ethiopians? The Egyptians? Or the ancient Greeks? Perhaps it is one of those phenomena that mysteriously and concurrently arose in several locations simultaniously, just like cave art, shipbuilding, agriculture and dating-apps. Regardless, this mythical elixir has firmly embedded itself in Norse mythology and was imbibed with gusto by Vikings during festivities and, perhaps, following a day of hard labour. In contemporary times, mead is still consumed in moderation by a cadre of connoisseurs and, conceivably, a handful of black-metal rockabillies dressed in black. Nonetheless, beer and the ubiquitous latte macchiato have, of course, surged in popularity. Yet, I can well imagine your inclination to taste a sample of this illustrious libation. And, to divulge forthwith, you can indeed do so. For this purpose, you may visit Vinmonopolet , the state liquor store, of which I previously penned an article. Fortunately, there are also a handful of bars and restaurants where your desire can be fulfilled. I have endeavored to ascertain which obscure bars most certainly maintain a stock of mead. Here's where you can most likely have a taste of mead: Oslo: RØØR , Schouskjelleren , Brygg Trondheim: Øx Bergen: Lucky , Apollon , Pingvinen , Henrik Øl og Vinstove Stavanger: På Kornet Sandnes: Melkebaren Tromsø: Agenturen Missing a place I do not know about? Please, find me on the socials and point it out for me.

  • Destination: Oslo; it is not hard to survive an expensive city on a tight budget

    Oslo is fighting with a reputation for being an expensive destination, but fear not – exploring this vibrant coastal city can be done without burning a hole in your pocket. In this guide, I'll share some savvy tips to keep your visit budget-friendly. It might require a bit of reading, but trust me, afterward, you'll confidently plan a long weekend in this beautiful city. Let me commence with your accommodation, as this is where the most significant opportunities lie to economize on your budget. Accommodation For the utmost budget-friendly stay in Oslo, consider camping. Thanks to Norway's allemansretten (right to roam), you're allowed to camp in nature, including activities like bathing, resting, traveling, and harvesting. In a nutshell, you can bring your sleeping bag and hammock , set up camp in the forests around Oslo, ensuring you don't disturb others or harm the environment. Numerous spots in the wooded areas north of the city are suitable. If wild camping isn't your style and you crave a bit more comfort you can pop your tent on one of the campsites in Oslo. But Bogstad Topcamp also rents out rather affordable cottages. Perfect when you're a small gang. They offer proximity to the city and a chance to connect with fellow solo travelers. Oslo boasts several hostels, with Haraldsheim and Anker Hostel standing out for their location and facilities. Choices range from mixed dorms (the most economical) to double rooms. While the city is abundant with Airbnbs, hotels, and other lodging options, you're here for the most cost-effective choices, right? Food Kick off your culinary adventure with supermarkets, especially Coop and Meny . They often feature a discounted section for products nearing their expiration date, offering substantial savings on items ranging from milk to fresh produce and meats. Saturdays, especially late afternoons, are ideal for snagging quality items at 40-70% off. Whether you're backpacking or embarking on a camper adventure, stocking up here is worthwhile. For a slightly more upscale experience, consider Jacobs. It's an exceptionally expensive supermarket but boasts an exceptional and extensive selection of seafood, often available at a significant discount. A personal favorite of mine is Toogoodtogo , an app-based service originating from Denmark that connects users to establishments offering heavily discounted items nearing closing time. Expect to find heave discounts on everything in between bakeries, supermarkets, restaurants and hotels. If you're driving through Sweden to Norway, consider stopping at Vestby to visit Holdbart , a supermarket selling products approaching or past their expiry date at significantly lower prices, always maintaining quality. For affordable dining, explore Grønland, a district with diverse demographics and a variety of restaurants, including Indian, Pakistani, and Turkish options. Kinabolle, La Vila, and Golden Chimp are personal favorites. Drinks Enjoy the most budget-friendly beer in Oslo at Mastermind (opposite the bus terminal). The atmosphere is convivial, and the terrace is an excellent spot for a few refreshments, especially in summer. Additionally, within about 5 minutes, you can stroll over the bridge to Bjørvika, the strip with intriguing modern architecture right along the coast. At Rabalder bar, student discounts are available, though you'll need valid student identification. If you're arriving by car or plane, consider stocking up on a few bottles of wine before entering the country. Ensure you're aware of the allowed quantity , as border inspections are conducted. Activities Oslo is blessed with a stunning surrounding landscape easily accessible from the city through an extensive public transportation system. Start with my favorite parks. Of course, a visit to Frogner Parken is a must, known for Vigelandsparken , the life's work of sculptor Gustav Vigeland, and its abundance of beautifully cultivated flowers from June to September. Ekeberg Parken is another favorite, a sculpture park situated on one of the higher parts on the east side of the city. Reach it by tram or use the long staircase from the old part of the city for your daily workout. Tøyen's botanical gardens provide a peaceful retreat with unique plants and trees, including tropical exotics in the covered greenhouses. Summer is the perfect season to take one of the electric ferries from Aker brygge to the islands. In just fifteen minutes, you'll find yourself in a sort of oasis of peace and nature. Gressholmen , in particular, is my personal favorite, a slightly smaller island with excellent swimming opportunities, especially when the warm summer sun drives hordes to the city's quays and beaches. If you plan to spend multiple days in Oslo, consider getting an Oslo Pass . This pass grants you free access to all public transportation in the city, as well as entry to all museums, and there are quite a few. Especially in late autumn or winter, it's almost a no-brainer. Moreover, you'll get discounts on a variety of offerings, including events at the opera house, meals, and numerous other activities. The Oslo Pass costs around 45 euros or dollars, and I dare say you'll recoup this investment within a day. Oslo is nestled in a sort of valley, surrounded by numerous fantastic viewpoints accessible with relative ease. These are my favorites: Kolsås toppen , Frognerseteren , and Ekeberg . Throughout all seasons, there's a plethora of free festivals and events, from second-hand markets to music festivals and performances. If you have specific questions, drop me a message on Insta , and I'll be happy to help because it's honestly too much to list. Enjoy your time!

  • Destination: a beautiful city in Norway.. close to Hell

    The title doesn't lie. However, it conceals a cheeky wordplay, because I refer to the town of Hell (Norway), which is situated about a 30min drive from Trondheim. Of course, the English word 'hell' means something different in Norwegian. It translates to something like 'fortunate' in modern Norwegian, but the name Hell originally stems from the Old Norse word "hellir," which signifies a 'hollow under an overhanging cliff,' likely used as a shelter in ancient times. 'Hell' is situated right next to Trondheim Airport and has evolved into a tourist attraction. Visitors, (almost exclusively) from abroad, come to Hell train station to capture a photo of the sign with the place name and the sign reading "Hell Gods Expedition." This is the old spelling for goods expedition, and it holds a special meaning in English, namely "the expedition of the gods." It has become a bit of a gimmick, but judging by the significant number of visitors, apparently enjoyable enough to stop for a few quirky photos while on the way from Trondheim Airport to the city center. Therefore, here's a list of places where you can capture a hellish photo: 1. The station in Hell and the adjacent building 'Hell Gods Expedition.' The station itself opened in 1881 and is still in use. 2. Blues in Hell . An annual blues festival that has attracted a roster of legendary blues artists, including Johnny Winter, who also performed at the iconic Woodstock festival (the original one from the 60s). About 4000 visitors attend, which may sound modest, but given the location and annual lineups, it can rightfully be called a sizable blues festival. In fact, in 2010, Blues in Hell was declared one of the best Blues festivals in Europe, quite an accomplishment. 3. For a hearty lunch, you can head to Hell Grill . It's a tiny blue stall in an unassuming parking lot, and it won't surprise you that Hell Grill sells hundreds of thousands of euros worth of hamburgers annually. 4. If you fancy staying in Hell for a laugh, you can. In fact, it's about a 10-minute walk from Trondheim Airport to the Hell Hotel . It's an excellent hotel with modern rooms and a fantastic breakfast and everything one would expect from a modern accommodation. If you're on a road trip and want to visit Hell, input the postcode '7517' into your navigation system. You can rent a car at both Trondheim Airport and in the city center . Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in Europe, it's highly recommended, both in terms of cost and comfort, to rent an electric car. It's cheaper, as a liter of petrol costs about 2.50 euros here, and of course, it's better for the environment because you don't have to refuel at (S)hell. Have a hell of a time!

  • Drink: the state has the monopoly; where to buy alcohol in Norway

    Due to persistent amazement and a plethora of questions from both friends and visitors regarding Norwegian alcohol policy, I've found it necessary to venture into this topic. If, like me, you're a lover of wine (preferably red and preferably German) and regularly enter Norway through an airport, then the following scenario is all too familiar. Tourists stand waiting by the baggage carousel, while Norwegians dart into the duty-free shop like salamanders to stock up on alcohol. Due to towering taxes, alcohol is indeed expensive here, but also because its sale has been tightly regulated by the Norwegian state for well over a century, creating a perception of it as a scarce commodity. To just immediately answer the question of where to buy alcohol in Norway; wine, spirits, and beer with a certain alcohol content are only purchasable at Vinmonopolet , and only during specific hours (Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Saturday from 10:00 to 16:00). This might sound downright communist to you if you're accustomed to Berlin kiosks selling liter bottles of beer or Amsterdam night shops selling whiskey at 4:00 am. Therefore, I'd like to take this opportunity to offer you a brief history lesson because, trust me, understanding a bit more about why things are the way they are here will give you more appreciation and insight into the country. Let's dive in! Vinmonopolet was established to secure trade with wine-producing countries in Europe. However, mitigating the harmful effects of alcohol has always been at the core of Vinmonopolet's activities since its founding in 1922. The roots of Vinmonopolet's history can be traced back to the time of the union with Denmark. During Danish rule, there were strict restrictions on the production and sale of alcohol. When the union dissolved in 1814, alcohol taxes were lowered, and rules for the production of spirits were liberalized. Alongside technological advancements in the production sector, this contributed to an increase in spirit consumption, peaking around 1830-1840, where each adult consumed an average of about 13 liters of pure alcohol per year in the form of spirits. Mainly, it was men who consumed alcohol. In cities, the working class consumed spirits and beer. The primary drinking days were Saturday and Monday. On Saturdays, wages were paid, and on Mondays, people drank to prepare for a heavy workweek – hence the name 'Blue Monday.' Even the upper and middle classes didn't hold back. They often gathered in 'social clubs' where they sang and debated. The escalating abuse of alcohol reinforced the temperance movement, which had a central role in both the labor movement and church circles. In 1871, the very first cooperative was established, a municipally controlled liquor store whose proceeds went towards "common beneficial work." In 1913, the sale of wine and spirits was only allowed in major cities and some municipalities in East Norway. In 1916, a ban on wine and spirits was introduced, supported by the population, partly due to food shortages during World War I. Grain and potatoes had to be used for food production. After the war, there was a referendum on whether the ban on spirits should be maintained. In 1919, Norwegians went to the polls, and the abstainers won with a whopping 61.6 percent of the votes. However, maintaining a ban was detrimental to trade policies. Norway relied on exporting various goods to countries like France, Portugal, and Spain. These countries threatened a trade boycott if Norway imposed restrictions on alcohol sales. Especially Portugal and Spain were crucial markets for Norwegian stockfish. It was also important to maintain good trade agreements regarding shipping, machinery, and wood processing. After difficult negotiations with France, it was agreed that Norwegians could order wine directly through a central monopoly. On November 30, 1922, Vinmonopolet was established. The goal was, therefore, to ensure that as many people as possible would have access to wine, not to restrict sales, as many might think. The ban on spirits was lifted in 1926. During the 1920s, issues with smuggled alcohol, home distillation, and clever ways to bypass the spirits ban increased. For example, one could obtain half a bottle of cognac as a cough medicine with a doctor's prescription. The ban had played its part. In 1926, Norwegians went to the polls again, and a majority voted for the legal sale of spirits. The prohibition era was over, and Vinmonopolet began selling spirits the following year. However, there were restrictions on who could buy spirits. Sales were not allowed to individuals under 21 years old, intoxicated individuals, or alcohol abusers. In 1930, a blacklist system was introduced. Certain individuals were put on a blacklist and were not allowed to buy spirits. This system was maintained until the mid-1970s. Vinmonopolet was closed between April 9 and June 10, 1940. Nevertheless, Vinmonopolet managed to keep operations reasonably stable during the war years. A massive production complex in Hasle was completed in the early 1930s, ensuring that Vinmonopolet could produce and remain open during the war. To prevent empty stocks, Vinmonopolet implemented rationing. There was also a ban on forming queues during certain periods. If someone queued before the morning opening, they received a fine and lost their rationing card for a specific period. So, people often walked 'accidentally' by just before the 8:00 am opening, ready to dash to the entrance as soon as Vinmonopolet opened. Imports from Europe were limited during the war. To address shortages of cognac and whisky, Vinmonopolet began blending Norwegian homemade potato brandy into these drinks and sold them as "pre-cut spirits." In 1941, plank brandy was introduced, producing spirits from waste products of the cellulose industry. This saved Vinmonopolet during the war because grain and potatoes had to be used for food. When peace came in 1945, there was an explosive increase in alcohol consumption. However, during the 1950s, alcohol consumption remained stable and relatively moderate. It was a time of thrift and the country's reconstruction. At Vinmonopolet, there was a gradual modernization. The stores had to be larger, brighter, with improved logistics and queue systems. There were relatively few Vinmonopolet stores throughout Norway; there were no branches in the former Akershus and areas like Lillestrøm, Jessheim, Asker, or Bærum. It was also not possible to buy spirits between Larvik and Kristiansand or in the Møre og Romsdal county. In total, Vinmonopolet had around 46 stores nationwide by 1955. The temperance cause was revived in the post-war period. Among other measures, taxes were increased, strict opening hours were imposed, and blacklists were maintained. There were also limited numbers of new stores, and existing stores often had to be somewhat hidden with an anonymous facade. Alcohol policy and Vinmonopolet underwent slight modernization, and in the 1970s, dissatisfaction with Vinmonopolet increased. In addition to sales, import, and production of wine and spirits, Vinmonopolet was also responsible for controlling the serving of spirits. Inspectors from Vinmonopolet visited restaurants and bars to ensure they charged the correct price and served the correct amount of spirits. Nightlife grew in the 1970s, and society gradually became more liberal regarding the sale and serving of alcohol. Vinmonopolet was seen as a hindrance to the liberalization of alcohol policy. The prosperity and education level of the population increased, cultural life flourished, and Norwegians slowly became more refined in terms of food and drink. However, we were still far from the European drinking pattern, and total alcohol consumption increased with prosperity. In 1975, a ban on alcohol advertising was introduced. This means that actors associated with the sale of alcohol cannot advertise their products. This still exists today. Discontent with Vinmonopolet increased during the 1980s, in line with the wave of liberalization in Norwegian society. A new CEO, Einar Joyce, introduced a new, more market-oriented business approach. The bag – the anonymous gray, so-called shed bag – had been heavily criticized. Now it turned burgundy with the Polet logo in gold. A marketing plan was introduced with products focused on what Norwegians actually asked for, and the extensive price list received a more modern look with colors, images, and information about beverages with food. A large, beautiful store opened in Klingeberggaten in Oslo with disco mirrors on the ceiling, benches where customers could sit while waiting in line, and wines displayed in glass showcases. Nevertheless, there was still trade over the counter and no self-service as we know it today. A new director in 1992, Kjell Frøyslid, would face significant challenges: a sales decline due to recession after the 1980s, increasing border trade, and, especially, great uncertainty about whether Vinmonopolet could be maintained under the EEA agreement. Vinmonopolet was an essential part of the political and legal negotiations with the EU on the EEA agreement. At that time, Vinmonopolet effectively consisted of five monopolies: production, export, import, distribution, and sales. In 1994, the ESA concluded that a monopoly on export and import had no impact on public health or alcohol consumption in Norway and, therefore, was not essential to the main purpose of an alcohol monopoly. It was also concluded that production and sales could not belong to the same monopoly company. The production part became Arcus, while sales with the stores remained with Vinmonopolet. Room was given for private parties to start importing alcoholic beverages for sale through Vinmonopolet. Today, over 500 small and large import companies supply wine and spirits to Vinmonopolet. The new Vinmonopolet implemented significant changes in the purchasing system, tax system, and product range to adapt to the EU, forming the basis for much of what we know today as Vinmonopolet. At the end of the 1990s, public and political resistance to Vinmonopolet increased, and more and more people advocated for the abolition of Vinmonopolet and the sale of alcohol in supermarkets. Much of the dissatisfaction was due to the few stores, and many people had to travel far to shop. In 1996, Vinmonopolet had a total of 114 stores, compared to about 340 today. The business operations also seemed outdated and old-fashioned with trade over the counter, long queues – often for hours, limited opening hours, and a relatively limited choice of products. Norwegians also started to travel more, and sales at duty-free airports and border trade increased. There was a need for modernization of the Polet, and a transformation was initiated under the leadership of the then CEO Knut Grøholt. In 1996, the Vinmonopolet board gave input to the government that they wanted more stores, longer opening hours, and experiments with self-service. They were allowed to open 50 new stores over five years and slightly longer opening hours, but the government did not allow self-service stores. In 1998, the government finally approved a self-service trial. Discontent with the Polet in the population was still significant. Two decades of liberalization of Norwegian society, along with increasing travel and experience with wine in foreign stores, led to 8 out of 10 people wanting wine in stores in 1998. There were also extensive challenges with the smuggling of spirits, and Vinmonopolet sold less than half of Norwegian distilled spirits consumption. Something had to be done to prevent the closure of Vinmonopolet. The self-service trial would be conducted in 14 stores and evaluated after two years to ensure it did not lead to a significant increase in alcohol consumption and contributed to greater legitimacy for Vinmonopolet. The trial was successful, and Vinmonopolet began a historic process of converting all stores to self-service, parallel to an ambitious expansion of the number of stores. This, along with a greater focus on customer service and expertise over the past two decades, has ensured that Vinmonopolet stands very firmly in society today. You're still here? That's amazing. Anyway, it still sparks discussion. And it always will.

  • Destination: I never wanted to ever leave Fjærland in Sogndal, Norway; books and a gorgeous hotel

    Fjærland, is a tiny little town in Sogndal (Norway). Nestled deep amidst towering mountains, it finds itself at the very end of one of the Sognefjord's long branches. The village exudes a delightful charm unique to Norway, comprising only a handful of beautiful wooden homes, a few distinguished hotels, a place of worship, and a couple of boutiques. One would never suspect, looking from the main road on the fjord's opposite side, that it is a destination worthy of an extended stay, perhaps even an unintended week-long visit. Allow me to explain the reasons why. Fjærland is an undeniable marvel, not just because of its breathtaking natural surroundings of Sogndal , but also because this small village is a respected haven for book lovers. Despite its modest population of only 300 people, numerous books, numbering in the hundreds of thousands, grace the shelves of various shops and barns. The literary collection extends beyond Norwegian titles, offering a significant assortment of English literature. This allows one the luxury of leisurely browsing book covers, enjoying the pleasure of an afternoon's literary exploration. I myself came across an English edition of 'War and Peace,' which I acquired and enjoyed while reclining contentedly in the lush grass, delving into its opening chapters. I still haven't finished it though. Along the streets, several covered bookshelves beckon passersby, allowing them to select a book on trust, with a humble 10 kroner left in the nearby mailbox. Indeed, where else does such a charming tradition persist in these modern times? The village, reminiscent of a bygone era, appears as if it has been plucked from the enchanting realm of a 1950s postcard. Adding to its allure, the venerable Mundal Hotel, dating back to the 1800s, adds an extra touch of grandeur. Unfortunately, it is currently closed for renovations, leaving one eagerly anticipating its transformation once it reopens. However, I am delighted to recommend to book a few nights at the Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel , which I think is a boutique hotel of utmost charm. Its exquisite rooms and the culinary expertise of its esteemed chef ensure a highly gratifying experience. The communal area, resembling a cozy living room, offers a welcoming refuge, a true haven for relaxation. The mesmerizing view of the cerulean fjord waters proves endlessly captivating, especially when a group of five dolphins gracefully glides past, leaving one in a state of wonderment. For those with limited financial resources, fear not, for Fjærland still provides the opportunity to enjoy a delightful vacation. Just beyond the village lies a charming campsite called Bøyum Camping , with ample space for tents and caravans. But, they also offer the rental of modest trekking cabins. If luxury is not a top priority, these accommodations will more than suffice. I myself had a thoroughly enjoyable two-night stay. Also in Fjærland: the Glacier Museum . This museum is a private foundation established by Den Norske Turistforening, International Glaciological Society, Norges vassdrags- og energidirektoratet, Norsk Polarinstitutt, Høgskulen i Sogn og Fjordane, University of Bergen, and University of Oslo in 1989. The purpose of the Norsk Bremuseum is to gather, create, and disseminate knowledge about glaciers and the climate. The foundation's activities span the fields of natural science and cultural history. The Glacier Museum illustrates the workings of nature and the interaction between nature and humanity through advanced film techniques, interactive models, and your own experiments with real glacier ice. The Norsk Bremuseum is designed for the inquisitive mind, definitely! Not least of all, Fjærland is a kind of mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. Kayaking, skiing, and guided walks to the glacier are all part of the possibilities. Take a look at Fjærland Guiding and let yourself be enticed. My earnest suggestion is to embrace the unhurried pace of life in Fjærland, staying until your heartbeat achieves a state of absolute tranquility. The village's allure stems not only from its enchanting atmosphere but also from the enigmatic wonders of nature that captivate from every angle. Dedicate a day to exploring the outskirts of the surrounding glaciers under the guidance of a knowledgeable guide. And be sure to reserve a few precious hours for indulging in the ' Dampen ' , the floating sauna. The view it offers is truly extraordinary, and it is both a personal obligation and a gesture of respect to the locals to take an invigorating plunge into the icy fjord waters at least once. There is no better moment to savor this experience than when you can retreat to the comforting warmth of the sauna afterward. Fjærland, with all its resplendent charm, embodies the essence of a small-scale fairytale, providing an unparalleled sanctuary for the discerning traveler. I, for one, long to return. Tomorrow preferrably! **Getting to Sogndal: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there and isn't all that flexible in these remote areas, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Stay: remote and unique places to stay; 6 bucket-list destinations in Norway

    With this title, I've set myself quite the impossible task trying to only pick 6 unique places to stay in Norway. For the country is truly littered with remarkable accommodations, each possessing its own unique character. Yet, after much deliberation, I've dared to select six that are just that bit more extraordinary. If perhaps you're destined to visit Norway only once in your lifetime, it's almost an obligation to yourself to spend at least one night in one of these six magnificent destinations. Yes, even if you had originally planned to go camping. Allow me to guide you through the farthest reaches of the country, exploring six bucket-list stays, each leaving an indelible mark upon you. Eaglenest Eco Lodge It is no coincidence that I begin this humble narrative by mentioning the Eaglenest Lodge. Perched at a lofty elevation of 901 meters above sea level, and extending boldly into the sky by 8 meters, the lodge offers panoramic vistas that mesmerize visitors throughout the seasons, from the crisp azure days of January to the vibrant hues of autumn. Nestled against a rather steep side of the picturesque valley of Gudbrandsdalen, the Eagle Nest Eco Lodge reminded me somewhat of a modern interpretation of the beacon of Gondor. And if you didn’t catch the Lord of the Rings reference there; it’s high up! The nearby Rondane, Dovrefjell, and Jotunheimen national parks make the Eagle Nest an excellent springboard for the exploration of some of the most spectacular natural sites the country has to offer. A sturdy and exceedingly comfortable bed, ingeniously fitted with a sliding feature, a bespoke kitchen crafted from local mountain pine, a rejuvenating hot tub, and an open-air log burner; the lodge seamlessly merges the ruggedness of its surroundings with contemporary sophistication. Paying homage to the rich heritage of Gudbrandsdalen, the interior exudes an aura of authenticity, adorned with rustic elements such as aged farm doors, intricately carved wooden shelves, and locally sourced hand-carved slate. Nearby Natural Highlight: Rondane National Park Woodnest Woodnest offers a distinctive and Instagram-perfect treetop cabin experience. Overlooking the rather intriguing town of Odda, deeply nestled in a long and somewhat mystical side arm of the majestic Hardangerfjord, these cabins are crafted by the esteemed Norwegian architects Helen & Hard, embodying a profound reverence for nature. Each 15m2 cabin is ingeniously constructed to be cradled by the supporting tree, seamlessly integrating the living essence of the tree within its structure. Equipped with electricity, a compact kitchenette, high-speed Wi-Fi, modern conveniences such as flush toilets and showers, and underfloor heating to ensure warmth on chilly nights, each cabin provides a haven of comfort and convenience. Their design has been lauded on many platforms, and now it’s your turn to spend the night there. Nearby Natural Highlight: Trolltunga and Hardangerfjorden Pan Treetop Situated within Finnskogen, in Solør, the 8-meter elevated cabins are nestled within a vast nature reserve teeming with history and wildlife. Bears, wolves, moose—they’re all there. Although chances of seeing them are rather slim, you might if you manage to keep your voice down and have your eyes on the edge of the forest during twilight. Because that’s usually the time a moose would consider coming out in search of dinner. The PAN treetop cabins are renowned for their unique and distinct architecture; the cabins have garnered numerous awards and garnered widespread acclaim in the international press. PAN1 and PAN2 can accommodate up to six guests, featuring one double bed and four single beds, while PAN3 comfortably houses four individuals. All cabins are equipped with water and electricity, ensuring a comfortable and relaxing stay. The tranquility of its surroundings is rather unique because Finnskogen isn’t exactly a massive tourist magnet, but unjustly so in my opinion. This truly is one of Europe’s last untouched wildernesses. Nearby Natural Highlight: Finnskogen The Bolder Most people come to Lysefjord for a day trip to walk up the steps to Preikestolen, and rightfully so. But very few decide to find accommodation outside of Stavanger. For those seeking a slightly more adventurous stay, Bolder is your best option. Elevated upon substantial concrete pillars, these lodges boast glass facades that afford panoramic views of the surrounding natural splendor of Lysefjorden and the surrounding mountains. Crafted by the esteemed architectural studio, Snøhetta, the Bolder Lodges epitomize an ethos of environmental sustainability; they’re there, but they barely touch the ground. The newly introduced StarLodges epitomize a sanctuary immersed in the embrace of nature, offering a leisurely travel experience. These off-grid luxury cabins perch delicately on the precipice of steep mountainsides, providing guests with a sense of weightlessness amidst the ethereal beauty of the clear blue fjord below. Exuding convenience and comfort, the lodges are meticulously outfitted in collaboration with renowned brands to ensure an unparalleled stay. From high-speed Wi-Fi to well-appointed kitchenettes and inviting living spaces, every amenity is thoughtfully provided. Nearby Natural Highlight: Preikestolen and Kjerag Manshausen Nestled within the scenic Steigen Archipelago off the coast of Northern Norway, Manshausen Island beckons as a singular destination where adventure, tranquility, and a profound connection with nature await. It’s a bit of a cliché, but I dare to call it a destination in itself. Taking the amazing view you have from the seaside cabins into account, a stay here is a justified item on a bucket list. Manshausen boasts an array of 16 structures, among which nine Sea Cabins stand as epitomes of understated elegance, offering unparalleled vistas and an ambiance of serene minimalism. Designed with meticulous attention to comfort, these cabins feature expansive floor-to-ceiling windows that seamlessly merge the interior with the captivating waterscape. The sea cabins have won a ton of architectural awards, for obvious reasons. Nearby Natural Highlight: the Lofoten Archipelago The Arctic Hideaway As the title suggests, this certainly is a hideaway because it doesn’t get more remote than this location. Nestled amidst the untouched expanse of northern Norway, The Arctic Hideaway is for those seeking tranquility and communion with nature. An hour's boat journey west of Bodø transports you to this secluded sanctuary, where eleven distinct cabins gracefully cascade from hilltops to the water's edge. Here, the absence of man-made clamor and visual clutter affords a rare opportunity for sensory renewal, immersing visitors in the unspoiled majesty of the Arctic landscape. Fordypningsrommet , aptly named "The Immersion Room," is more than a mere retreat; it is a conduit for profound connection with the natural world. Distractions dissipate in the face of elemental forces, allowing the essence of one's being to emerge, fostering encounters with the deepest recesses of the self. Amidst the rhythmic cadence of the waves and the ethereal dance of the northern lights, clarity of thought finds fertile ground. Upon the island, the trappings of modernity are conspicuously absent—no cars, no shops. Yet, in this dearth of distractions, lies the invitation to engage wholly with the natural milieu, to embrace the rhythms of existence unfettered by the demands of contemporary life. This place is utterly unique and will leave a mark in your memory you’ll want to revisit over and over again. Nearby Natural Highlight: the location itself

  • Hike: hiking is an excellent way to experience Norway; here's my best tips!

    Embarking on a hiking holiday in Norway is an unparalleled experience. Picture this: a 70-liter backpack, sturdy hiking boots, and a few weeks of unbridled time to wonder around. It's what I like to do most, though sadly, I've indulged in it far too infrequently in recent years due to...well, life happening. I think it's fair to say that Norway's breathtaking landscapes are best explored on foot, making it the ideal destination for outdoor enthusiasts. In this guide, I'll share some invaluable tips for those considering a hiking holiday in Norway. Proper preparation is key, so take your time to gear up for your adventure. Here are some essential pointers to ensure an unforgettable journey. Plan Your Route and Accommodation First and foremost, decide which region of Norway you want to explore on your hiking journey. This decision is entirely personal and depends on your experience level and physical condition. Some areas boast challenging terrain with steep ascents, turning seemingly short hikes into demanding endeavors. Therefore, thoroughly research the terrain beforehand to estimate the time needed for your trek. I highly recommend utilizing UT.no , a fantastic resource offering detailed maps with estimated distances and durations for various routes. It also classifies routes based on difficulty levels: easy, moderate, challenging, or extra challenging. Additionally, it provides information on available trekking cabins, a network of public shelters scattered across the country. These cabins offer overnight accommodations for a tiny fee, provided you bring your own sleeping bag. Cabin facilities range from basic shelters to semi-luxurious lodgings with hot meals available during high season. The DNT website contains all the necessary details for planning your stay. Most DNT cabins without hosts are secured with a standard DNT key. It's wise to carry this key with you at all times, safely stored in your backpack, especially if you plan to venture off the beaten path. Members can easily obtain this key for a deposit of 100 kroner, available through DNT's webshop, local tourist associations, select tourist offices, and certain stores. Familiarize yourself with the rules and regulations governing cabin stays to ensure a smooth experience. This remarkable system, democratizing outdoor living and accessibility, relies on everyone adhering to the guidelines. Wild Camping Norway is perfect for wild camping, boasting vast expanses of pristine wilderness and an extensive network of trails. The country's "Right to Roam" or "Allemansretten" grants people the freedom to enjoy nature responsibly, regardless of their background or origin. To summarize, Allemansretten encompasses the following points: Access to Nature: Individuals have the right to hike, bike, ski, or swim in the countryside, provided they do not harm the environment or property. Camping: People are free to camp in nature as long as they do so respectfully and without causing damage. This includes setting up camp away from residential areas, refraining from making fires during dry periods, and leaving no trace behind. Foraging: Berry picking, mushroom hunting, and collecting wildflowers for personal use are allowed, but commercial exploitation is prohibited. It's essential to harvest only what you need and treat nature with respect. Fishing and Hunting: Fishing and hunting are permitted in nature, subject to specific rules and permits depending on the area and species. Respect for Nature and the Environment: While Allemansretten grants considerable freedom, it's crucial to treat nature with respect. This entails leaving no litter behind, avoiding damage to plants or animals, and respecting the peace and tranquility of others. Allemansretten is a cherished aspect of Norwegian culture, contributing to the preservation of the country's natural beauty. It enables people to revel in the stunning landscapes and engage in outdoor activities while assuming responsibility for conservation efforts. Before embarking on a wild camping adventure, familiarize yourself with both written and unwritten rules regarding wilderness camping. What to pack Packing varies from person to person. Personally, I prefer traveling as lightly as possible, particularly on extended hiking trips exceeding four days. This allows me to allocate more space for provisions . Additionally, I tend to tolerate cold weather rather well and often camp during winter. However, if you hail from warmer climates, your needs may differ causing the underneath packing list to increase a bit. In general, I did my best to compile a little list of basics you'd have to think of bringing. Waterproof jacket and trousers Lightweight windbreaker and hiking trousers with moisture-wicking properties Woolen or blended underwear with an extra set Wool socks with a snug fit and an extra pair Wool sweater or jacket, or a lightweight down jacket Lightweight tent (I always bring one, even though I'm planning to stay in cabins, just to be sure of shelter in case something might change, like the weather for example). A thin matress or underlay to seperate you from cold surfaces Woolen mittens or gloves that retain warmth when wet Lightweight sneakers (nice to have when your hiking boots are wet) Well-worn (!!!) hiking boots to prevent blisters Shorts and t-shirt made of wool or synthetic fibers for warmer weather A thermosflask, both for your morning coffee and to keep the water you drink from rivers nice and cool during warm days. Backpack with suitable volume Waterproof bag that fits inside the backpack (optional rain cover) Sleeping bag if camping; otherwise, a sleeping bag liner for DNT huts (even in midsummer, temperatures can drop at high altitudes) Power banks for charging devices First aid kit with blister plasters and sports tape Minimal toiletries and a small/lightweight towel (preferably biodegradable toothpaste) Toilet paper and an extra garbage bag (you will not find trashbins in the wildernis and dumping your rubbish is an absolute no-go). Sunglasses and sunscreen Insect repellent/mosquito net Map, compass, and waterproof map case, or GPS device Multitool and duct tape Matches/lighter Compact headlamp/flashlight Cash/debit card DNT key Digital DNT membership card Provisions! Rather too many than too few! When hiking in Norway, always inform someone about your plans before setting out. It doesn't need to be overly detailed, but ensuring someone is aware of your intended route is crucial. While Norway's natural beauty is unparalleled, it's essential to acknowledge the potential risks involved. As previously mentioned, preparation is key.

  • Destination: the Vega Islands; a breathtaking Norwegian archipellago protected by UNESCO

    A few weeks ago, I found myself on the island of Vega. It was more by chance than design. My holiday commenced earlier than expected, and given my recent responsibility for raising a Finnish Lapdog, we quickly decided to holiday within Norwegian borders. While many visitors to Norway often ponder how to craft their itineraries, I prefer not to bind myself to rigid plans. This is simply due to the weather. The decision was made when the weather forecast for the Helgeland coast was splendid, so we set our course towards Trondheim, from where we journeyed further north. The Helgeland coast is an enchanting part of Norway. Its coastline is so unique and spectacular that it has no equal anywhere in the world. Towering cliffs rising almost perpendicularly from the azure sea are a breathtaking sight. As you might have gathered from the title, the journey also led me to the island of Vega, where I spent three days. The indescribable natural beauty, the unique atmosphere, and the mindset of the islanders compelled me to write a rather lengthy article about this evocative island. After reading, you'll know: Where to stay Where to eat delicious food Which places and attractions you must visit before returning to the mainland. Your Stay For your stay, I have an immediate golden tip: visit Norway in June. In July, most Norwegians are on holiday, making the most fantastic accommodation often fully booked and considerably pricier. Now, to the point. I spent my first night at Basecamp Vega . This location is quite the stuff of dreams. Not only is it Instagram-worthy beautiful, but it also situates you in the heart of the landscape so characteristic of the Helgeland coast—towering mountain peaks and an azure sea. Basecamp Vega rents out tiny cabins with no more than a bed and a terrace. The remarkable feature of these cabins is the large hatch you can open, providing a stunning view of the coastal landscape from your bed. Additionally, the breakfast is simple but fine, and they serve a simple dinner should you desire it, along with ice-cold beer on tap. What immediately struck me was the cleanliness of both the cabins and the sanitary facilities. It is no coincidence that the smiling young twenty-somethings managing the facilities are responsible for this. The staff demographics left a curious impression on me: a man in his 60's who introduces himself to guests with notable pride as ‘the boss,’ and an army of smiley, exclusively young women who work the facilities. Anyways... Base camp Vega is aptly named for good reason. Within walking distance are the Vega Steps —an impressive sequence of wooden stairs leading you to one of the highest peaks on the island, offering a magnificent view. The same location features the Via Ferrata—a climbing paradise for daredevils. Under supervision of an experienced guide and secured with ropes and hooks, you can enjoy a beautiful climb. Base camp Vega also rents out kayaks for exploring the crystal-clear waters of the archipelago. Should you seek a bit more comfort, I highly recommend the Vega Havhotell . The hotel is idyllically located and exudes a very personal and hospitable atmosphere. It seems odd to mention, but not every hotel can claim this. The highlight of a stay at the Havhotell is undoubtedly the five-course dinner. All guests are expected at the table simultaneously, where the chef, with a healthy dosis of humour and some Northern Norwegian swearing, announces and explains the menu and wine selection. Highly entertaining. I was thoroughly impressed by the quality of the dishes. While the dishes might be considered somewhat simple, the ingredients, preparation, taste, and presentation were of absolute class. The hotel also offers a wide range of fairly obscure bottles of akkevit. Finding a favourite, I’ll leave to you. Food As mentioned, the Havhotel is an absolute must for an excellent dinner. As you might guess, the selection of dining establishments is somewhat limited on Vega, simply due to the island’s population of just 1,200 inhabitants. One of these residents is Bente. Together with her husband, she runs Stavsmarken Gård . As the name suggests, this is indeed a farm where various products are made, including wonderfully delicious sausages. I dare say these are among the best I have ever tasted. Stavsmarken has a delightful little shop where you can buy all these goodies, either for your own enjoyment or as souvenirs. But it doesn’t stop at sausages. Everywhere you look, the walls of their little boutique are painted with local delicacies making it hard to resist indulging and filling up the trunk of your car. They also run a very charming café with excellent coffee and a moist, luscious carrot cake with a divine topping. Such lovely people too. That alone is reason enough to visit. I also heartily recommend popping into the local Spar supermarket . Here you’ll find an excellent selection of locally produced foods, including a locally brewed beer (Vega Havøl) that is well worth sipping on! Activities As you may know, the Vega Islands are on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and that is no small feat. The coastal landscape, along with its unique flora and fauna, is unparalleled and must be protected. My first recommendation is therefore to visit the Vega World Heritage Centre . The building itself is an architectural gem, with a group of goats acting as gardeners, grazing the museum’s slopes. I actually recommend visiting this centre first. It allows you to appreciate the island with new eyes. There are countless outdoor activities. Exploring the islands by kayak is naturally recommended. Unfortunately, I couldn’t do this myself due to the aforementioned puppy, whose behaviour is not yet quite seaworthy. The Vega Steps are, of course, a must. Additionally, there are several beautiful hiking trails on the island that immerse you in its rich flora and fauna. Also, visit Martin Skjefstad at Risbakkvegen 103 . Martin is a highly skilled ceramic artist who produces stunning tableware from his idyllic workshop. It’s no surprise that his work is used in several renowned restaurants in the area, including the Vega Havhotell and restaurant Svang in Brønnøysund Conclusion What made Vega so special for me is its completely unique atmosphere. Naturally, the breathtaking landscape contributes significantly, but the islanders also have a distinct mindset. Everyone knows each other, but it seems that everyone also helps each other, which adds to its charm. I sincerely hope this article has provided the final encouragement for you to spend a few days on Vega.

  • Drink: the best non-alcoholic alternative to wine that tastes like a Norwegian forest; Villbrygg

    I reside on the edge of the forest. From my breakfast table, I gaze upon the treetops and behold a hillside adorned with trees of various kinds—birches, firs, and poplars. Each season, I find myself marveling at the inherent beauty of this place. Whether it's the yellow, orange, and red hues of autumn, the snow-covered conifers and muted winter light, or the budding light green of early spring, it never ceases to captivate me. I frequently embark on long walks through the woods, sometimes with a specific goal—perhaps to find berries , mushrooms , or edible plants. But often, I venture into the forest to unwind, reducing the sensory input to a pleasant minimum. The remaining stimuli become more intense—the sounds of birds and other creatures moving unseen through the woods, the scent of the forest floor, pine needles, and other plants. And there's something else that I can't quite articulate—call it a kind of energy. I'll leave that undefined for now. Speaking of sensory experiences and the forest, I come to a discovery I made recently and it concerns a drink which to me is the best alternative to wine: Villbrygg (wild-brew) particularly my personal favourite, Skog (forest). If the forest, as I just described it, had a taste, it would be the taste of Skog. The ingedrients leave most to the imagination; spruce shoots, lemongrass, yarrow, and birch leaves. Describing the complexity and nuances of the flavor is challenging. It's lightly acidic, slightly bitter, yet with a fresh kind of sweetness hinting at fermentation. I immediately thought of the light green tips of spruce that you can pluck and eat in spring—somewhat sour but sweet enough to make them enjoyable. When pickled, they serve as excellent supplements in various dishes. I'm incredibly excited about what Villbrygg is doing. Especially with the recent pandemic still somewhat fresh in my memory, during which people had to be restrained and contained because they would otherwise go amok, alcohol was not served in restaurants as some symbolic measure. I recall sitting at Geita in the midst of the pandemic, and an alcohol-free drinks menu was presented (which, by the way, was excellent). Villbrygg would have fit right in. That's because the flavours possess a certain complexity that you would normally expect from wine. You get my point by now. I am thrilled about how Villbrygg captures the flavours of the northern flora in delightful, refined, and complex beverages. It fits perfectly within the (hopefully enduring) trend of The New Nordic Food Manifesto as published in 2004, where overlooked locally produced- and available foods have received a complete and well deserved reevaluation. Oddly enough, the first sip of Villbrygg immediately reminded me of the restaurant 'The Little Pickle' in Oslo. This is a restaurant I wholeheartedly recommend. They have elevated the pickling of vegetables, in particular, to an absolute art. The dishes they serve are of an unpretentious simplicity but with incredible flavours. For example, I had never tasted pickled carrot before. And at 'The Little Pickle,' that carrot tastes like CARROT(!!!). Truly amazing. Well, at 'The Little Pickle,' I could easily imagine myself leaving a glass of wine for what it is, and order a glass of ‘Skog’ instead. If you're now incredibly eager to taste what I'm tasting as I write this article, you're likely out of luck. Because Villbrygg is only available in Norway and Berlin according to the last update.

  • Hike: by train to the roof of Norway; hike from Finse to Dyranut

    It's a question I encounter quite frequently: Can one experience the breathtaking natural beauty of Norway without the aid of an automobile? Shortly said; is Norway by train a good idea? The answer is a resounding yes. I'll admit, I've given away the answer early, but allow me to now explain how you can embark on a remarkable nature adventure spanning 3-4 days from Oslo with no reliance on a car. However, a word of caution: embark on this journey well-prepared (and I'll touch on that later). Four years ago, I arrived here for the first time, and I was utterly overwhelmed by the stunning landscape. We arrived late in the afternoon, with the sun casting a golden hue over the entire valley as it began its descent. Anyway, plenty of sentiments here. To the point now. First and foremost, securing a seat reservation on the train known as the ' Bergens banen ' to Finse is essential. It takes a bit longer from Oslo, but within 4 hours, you'll reach your destination—or rather, the starting point of your hiking adventure. Do not underestimate the necessity of reservations; this train route tends to be fully booked at least a week in advance. The train journey to Finse takes around 4 hours. Finse itself is nothing more than a cluster of buildings. There's a hikers' hotel that hosts a jazz festival each year, an accommodation managed by the Norwegian Tourist Association, and a few holiday cottages and the like. Initially, it may feel quite peculiar... The history of Finse is quite intriguing. Around 1900, one of Norway's most ambitious infrastructure projects ever took place: the construction of a railway line from Oslo to Bergen through one of the most inhospitable terrains imaginable. Finse did not exist as a place back then, but accommodations were built for laborers, diggers, and contractors. The project spanned such a long period that it also gave rise to a bakery and several other shops. When the railway was completed in the new millennium (that's 1900), a hotel was opened next to the station. That hotel has remained in operation for the past 120 years, drawing tourists in all seasons. And the reason for its allure is not hard to discern. It's a remarkable place, firstly because there's a railway here, and secondly because you have a direct view of an impressive glacier. In summer, it's the perfect starting point for multi-day hikes, and in winter, it's ideal for snowboarding and kite-skiing. Every January, a small-scale jazz festival even takes place, which, as a devoted jazz enthusiast, greatly appeals to me (and I regret not having attended it yet). Anyway, this section was categorized under 'hike,' so let's get down to business. From Finse, you'll hike for about 2-3 days to reach Dyranut. I must say that the first leg can be quite challenging, with significant elevation changes, curves, and climbs. You wouldn't guess it from looking at the map, but the distances are indeed greater than they appear in this type of terrain. On the first day, you'll walk along the foothills of the Hardanger Jokulen. With the gradual melting of the large glaciers, we are likely among the last generations to witness this imposing natural phenomenon here. You can theoretically hike to Kjeldebu in one day, but it's approximately 17 kilometers on marked trails, which might be a bit far for inexperienced hikers. It's better to set up your tent near Skåltjørna, a beautiful lake at the base of the Hardangerjøkulen (massive glacier that is). The following day, after about 5 hours of hiking, you'll reach Dyranut . This is a roadside restaurant/inn along one of the main roads across the Hardangervidda. Here, you can catch your breath before taking the bus to Geilo. If you wish, you can also spend the night here. Purchase your bus tickets on skyss.no, and it's handy to download their app. Keep in mind that buses don't run very frequently here; in this case, only twice a day. For preparation on such hikes, several items are crucial. Of course, the obvious essentials like ample provisions, well-worn hiking boots , a sturdy backpack, and a warm sleeping bag are important. But also, bear in mind that you'll need the following on such trips: Waterproof jacket and trousers Lightweight windbreaker and hiking trousers with moisture-wicking properties Woolen or blended underwear with an extra set Wool socks with a snug fit and an extra pair Wool sweater or jacket, or a lightweight down jacket Lightweight tent (I always bring one, even though I'm planning to stay in cabins, just to be sure of shelter in case something might change, like the weather for example). A thin matress or underlay to seperate you from cold surfaces Woolen mittens or gloves that retain warmth when wet Lightweight sneakers (nice to have when your hiking boots are wet) Well-worn (!!!) hiking boots to prevent blisters Shorts and t-shirt made of wool or synthetic fibers for warmer weather A thermosflask, both for your morning coffee and to keep the water you drink from rivers nice and cool during warm days. Backpack with suitable volume Waterproof bag that fits inside the backpack (optional rain cover) Sleeping bag if camping; otherwise, a sleeping bag liner for DNT huts (even in midsummer, temperatures can drop at high altitudes) Power banks for charging devices First aid kit with blister plasters and sports tape Minimal toiletries and a small/lightweight towel (preferably biodegradable toothpaste) Toilet paper and an extra garbage bag (you will not find trashbins in the wildernis and dumping your rubbish  is an absolute no-go). Sunglasses and sunscreen Insect repellent/mosquito net Map, compass, and waterproof map case, or GPS device Multitool and duct tape Matches/lighter Compact headlamp/flashlight Cash/debit card DNT key Digital DNT membership card Provisions! Rather too many than too few! If you'd like to visit Finse but don't fancy camping or hiking, that's also an option. You can enjoy the same splendid view in all comfort. Book a night at Hotel Finse 1222 . So, there you have it—an adventure through the breathtaking Norwegian wilderness, accessible without a car, with the convenience of trains and the charm of hiking. Prepare well, and you're in for an unforgettable experience. Pinky swear!

  • Hike: the big-5; wildlife and animals you might (not want to) come across in Norway

    Depending on where you hail from, the flora and fauna (or wildlife) in Norway can appear rather exotic, and indeed they are. Here, you won't find the famed Big Five, but instead, you'll encounter a myriad of creatures that are unique to the Arctic region and seldom seen elsewhere in the world. In this article, I shall be delighted to enlighten you about them. Furthermore, I shall provide you with some valuable tips to enhance your chances of spotting these creatures and offer guidance on how to conduct yourself when encountering them. I'm naming a few of my favourites. The moose, often referred to as the 'king of the forest' in colloquial terms, symbolizes the northern realms of the world. Both Norway and Sweden vie for the moose as their emblem. Countless Swedish Volvos proudly display a sticker reminiscent of the Ferrari logo - a yellow background with a black moose. Likewise, the moose frequently appears in Norwegian symbolism, logos, tourist shops, and popular culture. Surprisingly, though, in daily life, one seldom glimpses them (unless one knows where to look). That's the thing about moose—they are challenging to spot, even though countless road signs warn of their crossings. They often stand still, blending into the forest with their gray-brown hue, rendering them nearly invisible. But I shall provide you with some moose-spotting tips. The prime time is typically early evening just before sunset when they often venture close to the forest edge to graze or drink. If you happen to be in a car, pay attention to open spaces and meadows surrounded by woods, as these offer the best chances of spotting one. If you are out backpacking, there's a chance you might encounter one as well. If that happens, exercise caution, especially if they have offspring, as they can be protective and may attempt to intimidate you by approaching or even charge in your direction. Maintain a safe distance, for they are neither domesticated nor pets. Therefore it's also advisable to carry a pocket-sized pair of binoculars . (A wise purchase in general, if it was only in order to study the o-so-good-looking Norwegians in their natural habitat.) Even though I live near the capital, I spot a moose at least twice a week. I often board the bus before 5:00 AM, driving from the valley where I reside through densely wooded areas to the city. Along one of the bends, there lies an expansive meadow where I frequently see a moose standing. I suspect the moose may be somewhat trapped between urban areas, making the best of its situation. I have also encountered them a few times near Sognsvann, a popular hiking area just outside the city. Thus, you need not venture deep into the wilderness to increase your chances of spotting one. If you wish to guarantee a moose sighting, you can visit Viltgården or Dyreparken in Kristiansand. The latter is highly recommended if you aspire to observe Arctic animals. Moreover, the enclosures are sufficiently spacious to provide the animals with an excellent living environment which can't be said about most zoo's. And then the reindeer. Another (mythical) symbol of the Arctic landscape, these enchanting creatures with impressively antlered heads inhabit nearly the entire Arctic region. Even in Southern Norway, a substantial herd resides in Setesdalvesthei. Valdres also boasts a noteworthy population. I can vividly recall a few years ago, in the heart of February, when I was in the Valdres mountains. It was a splendid winter day with fresh snow and soft, beautiful light. Suddenly, we heard a tinkling sound. We exchanged glances and initially wondered why there were bells ringing in the middle of winter. However, not long after, we caught sight of the first reindeer—an imposing alpha male. Shortly thereafter, a massive herd crossed our path. For twenty minutes, approximately 300 reindeer strolled by. It was a truly magical experience. Reindeer have adapted significantly to their environment, primarily because there is very little food available in winter. Apart from a bit of moss and some birch bark, there isn't much on their menu. Consequently, reindeer have a significantly lower heart rate to conserve the scarce energy they have at their disposal. Therefore, it is best to leave them undisturbed. Do not approach them, no matter how tempting it may be. And yes indeed, bears reside here as well. To put your mind at ease, their numbers are relatively low, numbering only in the thousands. Thus, the likelihood of encountering one is quite slim. However, if you decide to venture into the Norwegian wilderness bordering Sweden or explore the sparsely populated areas in the northern part of Norway, it is imperative to be well-prepared. Here are a few tips: Make regular noise either by singing the French national anthem loudly and repeatedly or use one of these bear-bells, and ensure you are attentive to your surroundings. The probability of a bear attacking you is not necessarily high, but when startled, they might feel threatened. When camping, use scents to signal your presence. Bears, as it turns out, strongly dislike human urine. If you have the opportunity, urinate into a container or bottle (I understand that this might be somewhat challenging for the opposite gender) and spread it in a large circle about twenty meters from your tent. It doesn't have to be a lot, but the goal is to ensure that the bear smells that humans are nearby. In most cases, this will cause them to take off. If you wish to be absolutely sure, you can order a canister of bear spray. And stuff your wood away properly. Anyway, if you'd like to get to know more, a Youtube rabbithole is waiting for you. Fun fact: Just one month prior to writing this piece, a bear was spotted in the middle of a field, less than 30 kilometers from Oslo . For those unfamiliar with lynx, it is a rather large cat with enormous, endearingly fluffy paws. I have never encountered one in the wild, as they are quite elusive. However, I did once come across their paw prints in the snow, which was excitement enough. The wolverine is in fact and endangered species with only a few hundred individuals left. Consequently, the likelihood of encountering one is exceedingly low. The Kristiansand Zoo houses one of these remarkable creatures, providing a highly impressive spectacle. Attempting to provide an exhaustive account of the various bird species inhabiting different regions is a monumental task due to their incredible diversity. However, I hold a deep fondness for birds. While it may be a stretch to call myself a birdwatcher, I come rather close. This passion has been with me since childhood when I knew all the bird names by heart and could recognize each birdcall. Though that knowledge has somewhat faded, I still become genuinely enthusiastic when encountering a rare species or a magnificent bird of prey. My personal favorite is the dipper, a tiny black-and-white bird that frequents fast-flowing streams where it finds its sustenance. I have seen one once, and that remains my sole encounter. It is a creature with very specific preferences and requirements, and in this regard, I can relate entirely. For all you birdlovers roaming the lands, this book holds a great bank of knowledge on Norwegian bird species. And then, of course, we have all the marine mammals, but I shall reserve a separate article for them since the quest to spot a whale or an orca can be a goal in itself. What else could you encounter? Mammals: Red Deer: Another prominent deer species, red deer are widespread in Norway's forests and mountains. Arctic Fox: This resilient and well-adapted species thrives in Norway's Arctic tundra. Gray Wolf: Though rare, gray wolves have been observed in parts of Norway. Badger: Found througout the entire country. Birds: White-tailed Eagle: Norway is home to one of the largest populations of these majestic eagles in Europe. Golden Eagle: These birds of prey inhabit the mountainous regions. Puffin: Found along the coastline, puffins are a favorite among birdwatchers. Common Eider: Coastal areas provide habitat for this sea duck. Capercaillie: A large woodland grouse species inhabiting the boreal forests. Snowy Owl: These striking owls occasionally visit Norway during the winter months. Marine Life: Atlantic Salmon: This iconic fish is native to Norwegian rivers and is prized by anglers. Cod: Abundant in the North Atlantic, cod is a staple in Norwegian cuisine. Humpback Whale: Norway's coastal waters are a prime location for whale watching, including humpbacks. Orcas: These apex predators can be spotted in Norwegian fjords. Seals: Both harbor seals and grey seals can be found along the Norwegian coast. These are just some of the diverse animal species that call Norway home. Norway's unique ecosystems and varied climate zones contribute to its rich biodiversity, making it an appealing destination for nature enthusiasts and conservation efforts alike. Go out and explore. And be kind to those beasts!

  • Destination: a list of (the most amazing) saunas in Norway

    My very first memory of a sauna dates back to my childhood. I must have been nine years old or thereabout. I was at the local indoor pool with my friends, and we thought it would be fun to give the sauna a try. To cut a long story short, I fainted. However, that childhood 'trauma' has since been processed, and now I eagerly join a group of friends to the sauna every month with great delight. Opposite the opera house here in Oslo lies SALT , a creative hotspot featuring a bar, a stage, dining spots, and, of course, a sauna. It's an immensely pleasant place to socialize and relax and in general is the sauna in Norway experiencing a full-on revival. And more recently, after years of continuous stress and insomnia, both my mind and body called me to a hold. I've become a regular now, visiting a sauna at least twice a week to calm down, breathe, and give my body a rest. But enough about me. Let's say you're traveling and it's pouring rain. You could certainly succumb to misery and watch the meaning of life slip away before your eyes. Or you could consult a map to find a sauna and approach the day from an entirely different angle. Hence, I thought it would be a nice idea to compile a list of public saunas that are worth visiting, whether due to their location or their view. Presented in no particular order: 1. Pust in Tromsø : I passed by it during the summer, although unprepared. Meaning that we were on our way to eat out. Yet, the location is superb. The floating sauna rests in Tromsø's old harbor, offering a view of the Arctic Cathedral. It doesn't get more exotic than this. 2. Badstuflåte in Hammerfest : You can "rent" this one for free. Yes, you read that correctly. Such things do exist in this remarkable country. Just get in touch with the local municipal official. It's another floating sauna. You'll need to light the wood stove yourself, leave it neat and clean, and above all, abstain from bringing alcohol. Adhering to the rules is essential for the sustainability of such sympathatic amenities. I said it before; the North is special. 3. The Soria Moria sauna in Dalen : This architectural marvel has garnered attention on numerous architect websites. The view is spectacular. And if an overnight stay at the nearby Dalen hotel is a bit heavy on your budget, this serves as a worthy substitute. 4. Dampen in Fjærland : Nestled in a narrow branch of the Sognefjord is a tiny village. If you're a regular visitor on 'Ha det Mamma', you're likely aware of my enthusiasm for Fjærland. But let's put that aside for now. The fact is, you can book a sauna here with an incredible view. A footbridge leads you to the floating pontoon, from where you can admire the fjord, the mountains, and, if you're lucky, a group of dolphins that frequently swim by. 5. Pust in Sandvika : I mention this one because it's a relatively new sauna (and close to my home). Especially if you're a bit fed up with the city's hustle and bustle or embarrassed about your body (which half the Western world seems to unjustly suffer from these days), this is a perfect retreat. Fairly intimate, and often there are still a few available time slots. It's particularly beautiful in winter, as you sweat while gazing out over the frozen Oslo fjord. A perfect Sunday afternoon escape. 6. Rjukan : This is a historic region I've written about before. If you find yourself exhausted and satisfied after climbing the Gausta Toppen, spending an hour in the sauna is a splendid idea. It's great for muscle and tendon recovery, and it guarantees a peaceful sleep. Well worth reserving an hour here during your stay at the Tuddal Høyfjellhotel . 7. Lærdal badstue : One could easily call this one of the more picturesque fjord villages. Numerous historic buildings still stand, and there's a fantastic bakery. It's a lovely spot to arrive at late in the afternoon and depart the next day. Another attraction here is one of Europe's longest tunnels. An impressive feat of engineering. And, of course, there's a sauna! Don't forget to book beforehand since it's one of the more tiny ones! 8. Sandane is a lesser-known destination. This is mainly due to the hordes of tourists flocking to Loen to capture their insta-perfect photos. It's said to be beautiful there. Thus, this provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a relaxing hour in a nearly empty sauna. It's also one of the most affordable options on this list. 9. Kok Oslo : Perhaps you saw it in the news. Not long ago, a Tesla ended up in the water in Oslo. Nothing remarkable, you might think. However, the two passengers were rescued by the captain of a floating sauna. Indeed, you can book these floating saunas. In complete privacy, you sail along a stunning stretch of the Oslo fjord. You can dive into the refreshing water with a spectacular view of the capital. It's a true highlight when visiting Oslo. 10. Eldmølla : While most saunas are situated by the sea or a lake, this one is an exception. It is an architectural experiment constructed beside a small stream in the mountains of Valdres. Not only is this area one of my favourites in terms of natural beauty, but it is also an excellent base for exploring Jotunheimen or the fjord landscapes on the west coast. This relatively unknown and new sauna is prime material for influencers, but without the influencers. It is an absolute must-visit. In truth, the entire country is scattered with saunas, so grab your Google Maps and you're likely to stumble upon one wherever you may be. Just make sure to adhere to the following basic rules: Bring a water bottle and stay hydrated. Don't stay in the heat for more than 20 minutes. Take a break outside or jump in the water. If you have any health issues, like asthma or worse, consult your doctor to determine if a sauna visit is a good idea. Most saunas you come across are public. So you won't be alone. Respect that! Follow general (social) hygiene rules. No naked willies, and bring a towel to sit on. Slippers or woollen socks are also advisable, especially in freezing or snowy conditions.

  • Destination: Rondane National Park; so beautiful it should be painted

    Wait a minute, it has been painted. In fact, apart from Munch’s 'The Scream', Harald Sohlberg’s 'Winter Night in the Mountains' is perhaps one of the most iconic Norwegian paintings ever created which is on display in Norway's National Museum . And Sohlberg found his inspiration in the breathtaking landscape of Rondane National Park. I recently visited for the first time and was equally blown off my feet by the unspoiled beauty of this mountainous and incredibly diverse part of Norway. Being just over a 2.5-hour drive from Oslo, it’s one of those spectacular landscapes that you can easily include in your itinerary. In this modest article, I’ll provide you with: My recommendations for a fantastic overnight stay The must-see spots Places you might unjustly overlook Your Stay Let’s start at the beginning. When you’re planning to explore this area partially on foot, having a good base is an essential part of your experience. And for that, I have a wonderful recommendation. Picture a crystal-clear river gently flowing by, a charming meadow flanked with wildflowers, fire pits, a barbecue, and a sauna. From there, you overlook a terrain featuring a beautifully old red-painted farmhouse and several cabins. Welcome to the Rondane River Lodge . A sense of summer nostalgia washed over me as I first sat down on the terrace. The atmosphere is charming and peaceful. Flowers everywhere and it smells like the forest. To my great surprise, I found fresh Belgian waffles on the lunch menu. The explanation came when I met the hostess, a Belgian. The brilliance of this place, apart from its central location in the heart of Rondane, lies in the intimate and personal hospitality extended by the Belgians. I’ve always had a bit of a love affair with Belgium and Belgians. The beauty of this place is that you can either rent a hotel room or a fully furnished cabin, making it suitable for both transient travelers and those who wish to stay longer. It’s also ideal for couples and families with children, something not every hotel can claim. They offer a modest lunch and dinner menu, but the dishes on offer are of excellent quality. We stayed in one of the larger cabins. After a long day outdoors, it’s wonderful to hang up your hiking boots, light the fireplace, and relax with a nice beer from Hogna Brygg. In the evening, they serve a three-course dinner in the restaurant with delicious, locally sourced dishes. The Must-Sees of Rondane As I mentioned in the introduction, Rondane’s allure lies in its breathtakingly beautiful nature. The diversity of landscapes is vast, from high mountains with snowy peaks to fairy-tale forests threaded with crystal-clear streams. It’s no coincidence that one of Norway’s scenic roads runs through Rondane. This road has several stops along the way, some enhanced with small architectural features such as viewing platforms, sanitary facilities, or visitor centers. These stops are invariably worth pulling over for. When you see this symbol , you know there’s something to see. One of these stops is Strømbu. This is an excellent starting point for a day hike through one of the most beautiful parts of Rondane. In summer, hiking paths lead in all directions, but when the snow falls, kilometers of groomed tracks await cross-country skiers. As you now understand, Rondane is for lovers of breathtaking nature, flora and fauna, hiking, and cross-country skiing. Places You Might Unjustly Overlook When heading to Rondane from Oslo, you’re likely to pass through Ringebu, from where you take the road that leads you up into the mountains and valleys of Rondane. Make sure to stop in Ringebu, as you owe it to yourself to pick up some delicacies for the journey at Annis Pølsemakeri . They make arguably the best sausages in the country and sell various other locally made treats. Don’t forget to visit the Ringebu Stave Church . This is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway, located in the municipality of Ringebu in Innlandet county. The stave church, probably built around 1220, is a significant cultural heritage site and one of the oldest stave churches in the country. The brilliance of Rondane is that it’s not overrun by hordes of tourists; no cruise ships dock here, no trains run through, and there are no tourist shops. This gives the area its unspoiled character. So don’t spread the word too much after spending a few days here! Let’s keep this tip to ourselves, shall we?

  • Drink: the best bars in Oslo, according to me

    The best bars in Oslo... This exercise, in truth, is a bit rediculous since taste varies. But I'll proceed anyway in an attempt to let you glimpse Oslo through my eyes. In a completely arbitrary sequence, I present to you the drinking establishments I hold dearest (though regrettably frequented far too infrequently of late due to a persistent lack of funds, the result of escalating living costs). Fuglen . Initially, I frequented this spot solely in the evenings for an exceptional cocktail or a beer (they make an amazing old-fashioned). It was only later that I found myself drifting by during the day. They now boast a slush machine that crafts a splendid tonic and espresso slush. A treat for connoisseurs. Moreover, it attracts a fine international clientele alongside the more enigmatic, trendily attired Gen-Zers with intricate tattoos and principled canvas shoulder bags. I must confess a great fondness for mid-century interiors, and Fuglen is a remarkably authentic example of such. Dattera til Hagen . The most exceptional quality of this establishment lies within its clientele. Nestled inconspicuously amidst Oslo's most "international" district, it caters to a truly diverse audience. I'm not sure if this could be called one of the hidden bars of Oslo, but it's not frequented by foreign visitors at least. It's mostly students, hipsters, new Norwegians, and an assorted array of characters gather in the convivial courtyard to indulge in their libations. The atmosphere is utterly unpretentious, exuding an optimistic cheerfulness that becomes evident upon entry, as you traverse the artistically decorated corridor. Bryggeri Bar in Nedre Foss Gård . This is the haven for those seeking an unparalleled array of craft brews, hitherto unexplored by the palate, and for the sheer spectacle of its interior. One of the more unique watering holes in Oslo. The amalgamation of copper and wood imbues the place with a distinctly inviting ambiance. Here, in the company of a dear friend, one can discuss life's intricacies over a rich, chestnut-hued porter or a jaw-dislocating pale ale. Kastellet . It is within these walls that the most exquisite cocktails are conjured, and the interior is a marvel in itself. A kaleidoscopic amalgam of design classics graces this metropolitan cocktail bar on the second floor. Kastellet can easily be called one of the more trendy cocktail bars in Oslo. Here, one encounters the more elegant and affluent urbanites - the Botox-adorned lips, the impossibly attractive twenty-somethings flaunting ostentatious Rolex timepieces, and the aspirational influencers, all order their cocktails here. Be not deterred, have a cocktail or two, feast your eyes, and then move on. Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri . Descend the staircase, and you'll find yourself in a dimly lit cellar that carries an almost medieval allure. At the far end, a substantial hearth smoulders, evoking an olfactory sensation reminiscent of its ambiance. This locale is steeped in history, as it occupies the grounds of the erstwhile Schous brewery. Here, one may savor splendid brews, and this spot remains a reasonably well-kept secret while being one of the best craft beer bars in Oslo. Blå . A veritable institution in Oslo, exuding a ceaseless vibrancy. A particular recommendation is the Frank Znort Quartet, whose musical prowess turns Sunday evenings into legendary affairs. Oslo Mekaniske Verksted . Housed within an antiquated workshop, this may well be Oslo's coziest haven. Its interior is adorned with an assortment of curiosities - aged maps, globes, tomes, and posters. Expressing precisely why this place is so enchanting proves elusive, a sentiment captured most poignantly upon a visit during the early eve. Additionally, the amiable bar staff are a blessing. Bortenfor . A realm unto itself, this falls into a realm beyond categorization. A bonus category if you please. The closest neighbour of Blå. Relaxed, chilled, stylish and excellent to spend a warm summer evening on the terrace. One of the chill bars in Oslo. HIMKOK is nothing but an institution in the Norwegian capital. Tucked away on the second floor, one would not even closely suspect to find anything here. And for good reason. This bar is ranked number 10 in the top 50 of the worlds best bars. Yes, you read that correctly! And that.... is just amazing! I resided in Tøyen for a while. It's a bit of a neighbourhood that the rest of western Oslo tends to turn up their noses at. This is undoubtedly due to its more diverse demographics. This perception is entirely unfounded because what used to be a windswept and grim square has now transformed into a hub of warmth and activity. This is where you'll find Glasnost ; a rough-around-the-edges but oh-so-cozy pub where the (trendy) locals gather for their tipple. It exudes a kind of homely atmosphere, adorned with a multitude of quirky decorations. I instantly feel at home in such places.

  • Destination: animals; wildlife in Arctic Norway

    During the summer of 2023, we found ourselves without any definite vacation plans. I had already spent all my funds on family-related trips to the Netherlands, and the prospect of going somewhere didn't particularly appeal to us. That is, until an unfortunate twist of fate led a friendly couple to leave their car stranded in Kristiansand. With time on our hands, we decided to seize the opportunity and deliver the car to the far reaches of North-East Finnmark. The quickest route would take around 22 hours, spanning over 2200 kilometers. Nevertheless, the fastest route doesn't always offer the most scenic journey, and opportunities to explore the extreme north don't come around often. Thus, we chose to veer off course near Kiruna, directing our path towards Narvik, and then meandering further into the North-Eastern reaches of Finnmark. It turned to be a journey spanning approximately 3600km. Along our expedition, we stumbled upon what I believe to be one of North Norway's best-kept secrets: the tourist route from Russelv to Havøysund . Its allure lies chiefly in the indescribable landscape and the abundance of (wild) creatures encountered along the way. Within a mere 5 hours, we crossed paths with three moose, several sizable reindeer herds, a group of dolphins, a couple of reindeer carcasses, and, of course, sheep. We located a camping spot a kilometer from Lillefjord, a tiny settlement nestled in a bend along the road to Havøysund. Although it was late, the midnight sun ensured that daylight persisted. After a meal, an intriguing 'spouting' sound caught my attention. My initial thought was perhaps a seal. I hurried towards the coast to investigate, discovering before long the source of the sound: about six dolphins. I called out to my partner, and with admiration, we observed the dolphins leisurely swimming deeper into the bay. Shortly thereafter, something absurd unfolded. A small flock of sheep grazed near the shore. While not an uncommon sight, as the entire region is dotted with grazing sheep, somehow this particular flock managed to capture the attention of the dolphin troupe, which had drawn closer to the coastline. Whether intentional or not, I cannot say, but the dolphins commenced a frenzy of jumping and diving, successfully startling the sheep into a panicked run. Laughter echoed as the flock took off. Luckily, I managed to capture the comical spectacle on film and submitted it to the Norwegian state broadcaster NRK. They found it equally amusing and featured it on their website . The vast biodiversity and unspoiled nature in the northern reaches of the country prompted contemplation. As we strolled along the water's edge, I couldn't help but notice the copious amount of marine debris washing ashore. Much of this waste originates from the fishing industry, including buoys, fragments of fishing nets, styrofoam, aerosol cans, and shampoo bottles. Given the absence of municipal services in this remote corner of the world, it falls upon individuals to act responsibly. Hence, when you explore these regions, I hope you'll consider picking up a piece of plastic or a discarded fishing net and disposing of it in a proper waste container when you encounter one. It may be a drop in the ocean, but it's the least we can do. This unexplored corner of the world is truly worth a visit. Aside from encountering the most amiable and accommodating locals and wildlife in Arctic Norway, you'll hardly come across anyone else. Reserve a tiny but charming apartment for a night in Havøysund. The ultimate gem in Havøysund is the restaurant ' Havets Smak ', meaning the taste of the harbour. The seafood dishes they offer are genuinely exceptional, truly of the highest quality. And just look at the amount of people that have been at 'Havets Smak'. It's like discovering gold for the first time...at the end of the world. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Narvik Airport (HFT). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: Drøbak; a taste of southern Norway within half an hour from Oslo

    The Sunday town. That is, more or less, the unofficial moniker that Drøbak has bestowed upon itself. This is primarily due to the abundance of independent and stylish shops that are open on Sundays. Yet, by doing so, Drøbak, positioned as one of the most picturesque villages near Oslo, does itself a disservice. Because Drøbak is worth a visit on weekdays too. My initial encounter was some five years ago. It was early April, with temperatures just a few degrees above freezing, and a dense mist draped over the Oslo Fjord. At first glance, this might not appear to be an alluring setting, but the opposite is true. Drøbak exudes charm in every aspect, all year 'round. The history of Drøbak is nothing short of captivating. It acquired trading rights in the 19th century, a feat remarkable for a place of its modest size. This was owing to the fact that the Oslo Fjord would often freeze near Drøbak, making it one of the few viable locations for cargo ships to unload. Furthermore, being one of the narrowest stretches of the Oslo Fjord, it facilitated crossing on ice in times past. Additionally, Drøbak held strategic importance in the defense of Oslo, with the grand Oscarsborg fortress and several sunken German warships serving as imposing testament to its significance. Nevertheless, let us set aside this historical narrative for the moment. The principal allure of Drøbak lies in its exceedingly charming center, predominantly adorned with old wooden houses boasting colourful facades. It evoked reminiscences of the enchanting coastal villages found in southern Norway, which I recently wrote an article on . While exploration of Drøbak is best experienced firsthand, I do have a few recommendations of places not to miss! Firstly, who can resist the allure of coffee table books? It may seem somewhat arbitrary, but as the obvious name suggests, Coffee Table Books is solely dedicated to these visual 'symbols of portrayed status'. A very charming little shop it itself. However, the main reason I'm sending you here lies in the quality of the coffee. It is, quite unequivocally, the finest in Drøbak. It really is! Housed within one of Drøbak's oldest edifices is an immensely charming lunch café & winebar , perfectly primed for Instagram-worthy moments. The façade, constructed of bright red-painted wooden panels, has acquired a gentle slant over time. Inside, a crackling fireplace lends a cosy ambiance. Mind your head, particularly if, like me, you stand close to 1.90 meters tall! I heartily recommend the fish soup; it is truly delish! At the Follo Museum , one immerses oneself in the rich tapestry of local culture and history (especially fun for kids). Beyond the standard exhibitions, a myriad of events is hosted. Of particular note is the guided tour through Drøbak led by one of the museum's knowledgeable guides. Drøbak also serves as a culinary haven, particularly for enthusiasts of traditional Norwegian dishes. Look no further than Kumlegården for a taste of authenticity. While I shan't delve into the intricacies of Norwegian cuisine, it suffices to say that comfort food reigns supreme. Kumlegården excels in presenting traditional dishes such as pinekjøtt, rakfisk, and kumler, amidst an ambiance that exudes Norwegian charm. The service, too, is impeccable. Should you desire lodgings in Drøbak, options are somewhat limited, as it tends to be more of a day-trip destination. However, if you elect to pitch camp just beyond Oslo's periphery, I have a splendid recommendation for you: this holiday home . Nestled amidst scenic splendour, its unparalleled vistas surpass those of any hotel in the vicinity.

  • Destination: if I had one day...to visit Finnmark (Arctic Norway)

    Every now and then, we encounter those seemingly unattainable queries: What if you had only a single day to make the most of? What if you were granted millionaire status for a fleeting moment? Yet, when the context shifts to arctic Norway, this introspective exercise doesn't seem quite as outlandish. So, let's embark on this mental exploration without hesitation. If I were to find myself with a solitary day in Norway's embrace, it's safe to say that I would eagerly set forth along one of the country's renowned national tourist routes, specifically, the one traversing Varanger. My reference to this more remote path isn't intended to complicate matters more than I have to; rather, it's due to the unfortunate oversight that this may well be one of the most obscure and underestimated national tourist routes—unjustly so, regardless of its geographical seclusion. The journey would start in Varangerbotn, and the road would gracefully lead to Hamningberg. The simplicity of this route is truly striking. However, anticipate making frequent stops en route, about thirty of them, as you'll find yourself irresistibly drawn to halt the car, your jaw hanging in sheer awe, as the landscape unfolds before your eyes, leaving you humbled by its beauty. Finnmark stands as a distinct realm on its own. Both for its people and its landscape. While I don't particularly adhere to religious beliefs (not at all in fact), let's entertain for a moment the possibility that the narrative of a biblical creation offers a plausible hypothesis for our planet's origin. Picture, if you will, the notion that fragments of landscape remained scattered in various corners—a handful of sand dunes, a pair of imposing basalt cliffs, a smattering of pebble-strewn shores, a slice of tundra, expanses of sandstone, and so on. These remnants, it would seem, were masterfully employed to craft the entire northeastern coastline of Finnmark. The captivating tapestry of diverse terrains, each with its own character, unfolds as a testament to nature's artistry (that on the other hand, I am a strong believer of). Every inlet and peninsula reveals a unique countenance, a true celebration of the natural world. This visual symphony also accompanies the Varanger tourist route. Yet, what lends an enchanting quality to these national tourist routes is the fact that the Norwegian authorities have extended invitations to architects, tasking them with designing essential amenities—restroom facilities, panoramic viewpoints, and inviting seating areas—thoughtfully situated at strategic points along the route. These havens are discreetly indicated by this logo on adorning roadside signs, serving as beacons for those traversing these paths. Allow me to assure you, without reservation, that each pause taken here is an investment yielding abundant rewards. Not trying to be grotesque here. It is what it is. I'll refrain from delving too deeply into the experiences you'll encounter on your voyage; those are best savoured firsthand. Nevertheless, I do intend to dedicate several separate posts to unveil tips and recommendations for those intending to visit Finnmark. Those you will stumble upon when using the tag 'Finnmark'. And so, I reiterate: should you find yourself with a mere day to spare in Norway, embark on a national tourist route—particularly the one meandering through Varanger. Keen to spend the night in the region? Consider the Kongsfjord Arctic Lodge or the Jakobselv Kaia . **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Kirkenes Airport (KKN) since there's direct flights from Oslo. From there it is most wise to reserve a rental car (long) in advance. Charging stations are rather scarce in this outpost of the world, so in this case rather rent a petrol car. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: wall of Fins; fishing on Senja (Norway)

    When you venture into the northern reaches of Norway (Senja in our case) during the summer, you swiftly find yourself transported to a different realm. This transformation is owed to the extraordinarily picturesque landscape, the sparse population, and the sun that barely dips below the horizon. But it's also influenced by the multitude of Finns who choose to spend their summer vacations here. One Finnish-registered camper after another cruises past, and what an enchanting language they bring with them. I might not grasp a word of it, but the expressions, the cadence, and the sentences truly captivate the imagination. Oddly enough, Finnish seems to share more with Hungarian than any other European language. Very peculiar. With those Finnish tourists occupying my thoughts, I couldn't help but detect a certain ambiguity when we coincidentally parked the car by a restaurant named 'The Fat Cod'. One of the first things that caught my eye was the 'Wall of Fins'. Knowing that 'The Fat Cod' is managed by a group of Swedes, there seems to be a playfully ambiguous undertone at play. The 'Wall of Fins', as the name suggests, consists of about twenty codfish tails securely nailed to a wall, not of people from Finland. It should come as no surprise that 'The Fat Cod' , as its name and the 'Wall of Fins' indicate, is a seafood restaurant. What did come as a surprise, though, was the quality of the dishes. It might not be a gourmet establishment, but what they prepare is truly exceptional in taste. The fish soup is a work of art, and their fish & chips might very well be the finest I've ever savored. Regrettably, the cod sashimi wasn't available, but I've heard commendable things about it. The hosts running the restaurant are friendly and cheerful, infusing the place with a delightful ambiance. Equally astounding was the locale. 'Camp Steinfjord' which 'The Fat Cod' is a part of, is situated within an old shrimp factory in a quaint village right by the sea. It feels as secluded as New Zealand and exudes an oddly exotic aura. There are approximately twenty houses around, and a spotless sandy beach where camping is a splendid option. Later, I discovered that the waters around Senja boast some of the world's finest fishing grounds. The sea temperature is optimal for nurturing a bountiful supply of food in the form of algae and small fish, creating a virtual buffet for other fish species. This has turned it into a sort of Mecca for fishing enthusiasts. And this is precisely what you can experience at 'The Fat Cod' too. Camp Steinfjord, the collective term for all things fishing-related in this little bay, rents out fishing rods that almost guarantee a catch from the pier in next to no time. Moreover, you can immerse yourself even further by trying your hand at deep-sea fishing – a more serious pursuit. You can rent all sorts of fishing gear and even drysuits here. Staying overnight is an option as well . The rooms are simple yet impeccably organized. Once again, the rule applies: be an early bird as unique places like this tend to be booked up well in advance. The reason I depict Steinfjord as a destination is because there's ample justification to linger here for a few days. Not only is the beach indescribably stunning, but the surrounding mountains offer plenty of entertainment. If you also happen to have an affinity for fishing, I can't really conjure up a better place to spend a few days when you're on Senja. If you're just passing by, at least have a beer on the jetty and see others attempts on adding another Fin to the wall of Fins. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Narvik Airport (TRD). From there public transport will take you forever to get there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: the Borgund stave church, and 7 more stave churches for your bucketlist

    If you're here for the list, scroll straight down. Might you be keen on a small history lesson; hold the line! The notion that Christianity pioneered the art of marketing holds some truth. Globally, the unconventional church gained ground by interweaving local folklore, myths, and symbols with Christian elements, facilitating the conversion of local populations. This trend was not exclusive to Scandinavia, where the rugged landscapes of Norway gave rise to a distinctive approach to church construction. The wooden structures, named for their unique vertical posts or "staves," were once prevalent across northwestern Europe. With steep roofs adorned by dragon heads and intricate carvings, stave churches reflected a fusion of Christian and Norse pagan influences. Stave construction, characterized by vertical wooden columns connected by horizontal elements, defined these churches. While the extensive use of wood posed preservation challenges, it also contributed to their aesthetic appeal. The roofs, often steeply pitched with overhanging eaves, featured decorative ridge ornaments and dragon heads, adding a touch of Norse mythology. Elaborate carvings on portals depicted religious scenes, mythological figures, and intricate patterns. Some stave churches adopted a cruciform floor plan with multiple naves, enhancing their visual and symbolic significance. During the early Middle Ages, stave churches flourished in Scandinavia, particularly in Norway, serving as places of worship and community gatherings. Most existing Norwegian stave churches were built between 1150 and 1350. It's estimated that as many as 1000-2000 stave churches were constructed during the medieval period, likely found in nearly every village in Norway. In contrast, only 271 stone churches were built during the same period, with 160 remaining today. Comparatively, Sweden boasts 900 and Denmark 1800 medieval stone churches. Provisions in the Frostating Law and Gulathing Law suggest that stave construction was the norm, despite the Catholic Church's preference for stone. Before the Reformation, all wooden churches were constructed using stave techniques, with only one or two small churches possibly built with timber framing. Timber framing, introduced around the year 1000, was a younger technique in Norway than stave construction. Stave construction remained largely unaffected by timber framing techniques. The majority of stave churches were situated in less populated areas, such as mountain valleys, forested regions, fishing villages on islands, and smaller fjords. Stone churches were prevalent in cities, along the coast, in wealthy agricultural areas, and in the largest church parishes in fjords on the Vestlandet. Few new churches were built in Norway during the 1400s and 1500s. By the mid-1700s, most Norwegian stave churches had disappeared, replaced by churches constructed with timber framing. Some stave churches underwent modifications or expansions in the 1600s and 1700s, such as the conversion of Flesberg Stave Church into a cruciform church with a timber framing extension. Fires, storms, avalanches, decay, and the need for larger spaces led to the demolition of most stave churches to make way for new constructions. In 1650, around 270 stave churches remained in Norway, but 136 disappeared in the following century. By 1800, 95 stave churches still stood, and over 200 former stave churches were known by name or through written sources. From 1850 to 1885, 32 stave churches were lost, with only Fantoft Stave Church disappearing since then. If you've been following my previous blog posts, you may have read about Luster and its surroundings, home to the Urnes Stave Church. Regarded as the oldest preserved stave church in Norway, it was constructed around 1130, potentially incorporating parts from the 11th century. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its original stave construction and intricate carvings, blending Christian and Norse motifs, offer a glimpse into medieval wooden architecture. Despite its diminutive size, it sparks a wealth of imagination. There are approximately 180 standing stave churches today, with the following list featuring the most prominent ones. I added links to Google-maps for easy location marking in anticipation of your epic road-trip through Norway ;). Urnes Stave Church : Ornes, Luster municipality - Oldest preserved stave church with intricate carvings blending Christian and Norse motifs. Borgund Stave Church : Borgund, Laerdal municipality - Well-preserved with a distinctive triple nave design, dragon heads, and decorative carvings. Heddal Stave Church : Notodden municipality - Largest stave church in Norway, featuring an impressive size and intricate carvings. Kaupanger Stave Church : Sogndal municipality - Modest in design but historically significant, dating back to the 12th century. Hopperstad Stave Church : Vik municipality - Richly decorated portal and intricate carvings, dating back to the 12th century. Gol Stave Church : Gol municipality - Reconstruction showcasing a blend of stave church and Gothic architectural styles. Torpo Stave Church : Aal municipality - Reflects medieval origins and preservation efforts, with influences of both stave church and Gothic styles. Lom Stave Church : Lom municipality - Unique combination of Romanesque and Gothic elements, one of the largest stave churches in Norway. When going to Lom, have a look at the article I wrote previously . If you find yourself in Oslo, you also have the opportunity to see a stave church. In the late 1800s, the stave church from Gol was deconstructed and resurrected in what is now the Norwegian Folk Museum on Bygdøy, Oslo.

  • Stay: wooden dwellings for lovebirds: a stay in Valdres natur- og kulturpark

    Old places have something special. I can't quite describe it, but perhaps a soul? It is certainly a fascinating idea that people have lived and experienced their lives in certain places for hundreds of years. Vasetstølen is no exception, and I think that's why it appealed to me so much when I first visited. In the 16th century, Vasetstølen was a summer farm where the cattle could graze on fresh grass and herb-rich vegetation somewhere right in the middle of the Valdres area. Especially in autumn, when nature begins to change colors, it is a gift to enter here after a long walk. The fireplace crackles, and a bowl of rømmegrøt warms you up. Do not expect refined cuisine here, but rather dishes based on tradition. This place is particularly worth visiting for those who want to experience the simplicity of classic Norwegian farm life. If you are looking for a special place to stay in Valdres natur- og kulturpark, I have a wonderful recommendation for you: Herangtunet Boutique Hotel in Heggenes. I have never slept there myself (my inlaws have a cabin nearby) so in that sense I do not have any skin in the game, but I once looked around and I was completely overwhelmed. The interior has a kind of rugged grandeur with suites in various styles and themes. And just look at the location! I can picture myself with a blanket on my lap, next to a bonfire with a hot coco in my hand. Absolutely stunning. Additionally, they offer all sorts of activities that will immediately make you understand why I completely fell for Norway. In any case, are you in love? Or about to? Book a night or two. You’ll leave a different person. By the way, the surroundings of both Vasetstølen and Herangtunet are stunningly beautiful. There are numerous beautiful hiking trails, and if you feel like picking blueberries or mushrooms, the lower-lying forests are a goldmine. Here, you also have a good chance of encountering reindeer. I have seen a large herd pass by multiple times in the area, both in winter and summer. It's good to know that you shouldn't get too close to them. Especially not in winter. They have a lower heart rate during that time to conserve energy and might not run away if you approach them. But that doesn't mean they don't get stressed. So keep your distance, ok? All in all, a stay in the Valdres area is like food for your soul. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: the king's speech; lunch on Bygdøy

    When you take a glance at Google Maps, it becomes apparent in no time. A lot of woodland, ginormously expensive houses, and some charming beaches. The abundance of museums in the area is hard to miss as well. And don't get me wrong, go ahead and visit them all. Bygdøy is truly a splendid spot to while away a day. But immersing yourself in culture and gawking at posh villas can work up an appetite. Now, here's where it gets intriguing because I have an impossible choice for you. A picturesque botanical greenhouse or a tiny island without a road access, requiring a boat trip to reach it. First and foremost, let's talk about the greenhouse: Kongsgården Gartneriet Café . As the name implies, it's part of the property owned by the Norwegian royal family... or something like that. Now, I'm not necessarily a fervent fan of monarchies, but if I had to choose, it would be the Norwegian one. The best speech ever delivered by a monarch came from the Norwegian king . It gives me goosebumps just reminiscing about it. Anyway, let's return to Kongsgården Gartneriet Café. First things first, I highly recommend going there on a regular weekday, slightly past midday. The waiting time can get a bit lengthy on weekends. It won't come as a surprise that most of their delectable dishes are crafted using locally grown vegetables and fruits. The flavors are sublime, and the location is equally splendid yet utterly inconspicuous. Whether you spot it on Google Maps or happen to stumble upon it, it blends seamlessly into its surroundings. If you happen to have an insatiable craving for fish and chips or succulent shrimp, Bygdøy might not be the ideal spot. Instead, go to Lille Herbern . You'll have to hop on a tiny ferry from Bygdøy, which takes a mere one minute to whisk you away to a dock. From there, a stroll of a few minutes will lead you to an enchanting little cottage with a vibrant terrace. Sailors, hikers, and couples on romantic rendezvous gather here for a bite and a sip. It's an atmosphere of carefree joy, and their fish and chips are the bomb. The choice is yours: a verdant haven inside a greenhouse fit for a fairy tale, or a hidden gem on a secluded island. Whichever path you choose, culinary delights and captivating experiences await in Bygdøy. Aye!

  • Drink: A guide to the best cup of coffee in Oslo, according to me

    Allow me to begin by stating that Oslo is a veritable haven for coffee aficionados (and, naturally, for pastry enthusiasts, though that is a topic for another day). Thus, I thought it would be delightful to present you with a list of recommendations for places that I believe serve the best coffee in Oslo. Given that debating taste is a futile endeavour, I shall limit myself to venues that have truly charmed me and where you can procure excellent coffee. Let us not complicate matters further. This list is in no particular order, so number one is not necessarily the best (but it is certainly the coziest)! Fuglen Initially, I frequented this spot solely in the evenings for an exceptional cocktail or a beer. It was only later that I found myself drifting by during the day. They now boast a slush machine that crafts a splendid tonic and espresso slush. A treat for connoisseurs. Their 'regular' coffee is delightful as well. Moreover, it attracts a fine international clientele alongside the more enigmatic, trendily attired Gen-Zers with intricate tattoos and principled canvas shoulder bags. I must confess a great fondness for mid-century interiors, and Fuglen is a remarkably authentic example of such. Håndbakt The name alone—Hand-baked—evokes a sense of artisanal excellence. They offer a superb lunch menu and their slow-dripping filter coffee is a masterpiece. This is one of those places that tourists rarely stumble upon, as it is rather discreetly located. A complete injustice, in my opinion. I am quite fond of this part of the city! Tim Wendelboe A coffee institution named after its founder and absolute coffee champion, Tim Wendelboe. Need I say more? I do not frequent it often, as it is far from my usual weekday routes. However, if you find yourself in Oslo and possess a discerning palate, do visit for a cup of coffee elevated to an art form. Oslo Raw The density of pastel-clad influencer girls here is somewhat high, which I find a bit off-putting. Nonetheless, the cakes, tarts, sandwiches, and coffee served here are of world-class quality. Do not be deterred; settle in for a cup of coffee and marvel at the exceedingly attractive clientele who, for some reason, populate the streets of one of Oslo's most expensive districts. Solberg & Hansen In terms of quality, Solberg & Hansen are arguably among the finest coffee makers in Oslo. If one could earn a PhD in coffee making, the team at Solberg & Hansen would certainly graduate with honours. Additionally, they are situated right by Mathallen in Oslo, which has become an institution for an unparalleled culinary experience. With numerous stalls offering dishes from around the world, this is an absolute must-visit when you are in Oslo. Kiosk! The cutest little coffee shop in Oslo. Housed in a former petrol station and transformed into a coffee house following a neighbourhood crowdfunding campaign. The coffee is excellent, but the story behind its establishment is an even more compelling reason to stop by. Lille Oslo Kaffebrenneri A charming spot with self-roasted beans and a particularly cosy back garden where you can enjoy your coffee in typical Oslo surroundings. Possibly the best coffee in the city. Yet, as I mentioned in the introduction, debating taste is a hopeless exercise. Lille Valkyrien Kaffe og Tehus A tiny, adorable coffee and tea house with an excellent selection of superb coffee. Additionally, you can purchase beans to brew your favourite cup at home. It is situated on one of the longest, yet most tourist-unknown, shopping streets. Here you will find a wealth of marvellous shops and boutiques.

  • Stay: 5 of the classiest and oldest (historic) hotels in Norway

    I have a penchant for antiquity. I relish the aroma of aged books and tarred wood, love automobiles with at least a quarter-century under their belt, and find solace in jazz tunes from the era of the moon landing. If only I possessed more audacity and wealth and where born 60 years ago, I'd readily admit, I'd likely attire myself each day as if I were English countryside gentry. Entirely unjustified, pretentious and misplaced, obviously. I appreciate your honesty I hear you say... You're welcome. Well, you grasp the gist. This article delves into antiquity. Or in the charm of 5 out of many historic hotels in Norway, to be precise. And let me clarify right off the bat, as the Japanese may peruse this piece with a bemused gaze, for the world's oldest hotel undeniably resides in Japan, tracing its origins back to the year 705 (Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan). The oldest hotel in Norway, on the other hand, emerged more than 900 years later, its inception dating back to 1640. Certainly, in the ensuing centuries, tourism started to really boom in Norway. Particularly, European (royal) elites began journeying northward to be enraptured by the breathtaking Norwegian landscape, reaching its zenith in the 19th century. During this epoch, dozens of legendary hotels emerged all across the land. In this article, I introduce five, including the oldest among them. Hotel Walaker (1640) Utne Hotel (1722) Hotel Union Øye (1891) Dalen Hotel (1894) Tuddal Høyfjellshotel (1895) Walaker Hotel Walaker Hotel embodies a fairytale-esque allure in Solvorn, nestled along the shores of the Lustrafjord in Luster, Sogn. This historic establishment boasts a remarkable lineage, being, in fact, Norway's oldest continually operating hotel. And it shows. History oozes from its exquisitely adorned walls. Situated on Vetle-Vollåker in Solvorn, one of the fjord's most charming villages, I stumbled upon it serendipitously while en route to the Urnes stave church, having missed the ferry. Out of curiosity, we ventured inside and were captivated at every turn. In operation for over three hundred years—nearing four!—it saw the light of day in 1640 and has since remained a sought-after destination for guests seeking to immerse themselves in Norwegian history amidst the quintessential, breathtaking fjord landscape. Owned by the Nitter Walaker family since 1690, it stands as the oldest family-run hotel in Norway. Quite unique! Utne Hotel We journey back to 1722, to a quaint village along the Hardanger fjord. In that year, a remarkably intimate and charming hotel was established, which, as of 2024, still thrives. Utne Hotel exudes vivacity and authenticity, boasting a rich history against a backdrop of awe-inspiring landscapes—I refer, of course, to the natural scenery. Allow me to furnish you with some particulars: The hotel can be deemed intimate, with merely 17 unique hotel rooms, each exuding its own distinct character. The communal areas, too, exude a particularly inviting ambiance. The quality of traditional craftsmanship pervades the interior, significantly contributing to the nostalgic ambiance upon crossing its threshold. Then, there's its location, for this hotel holds its place for good reason. Utne Hotel lies proximate to mountains and fjords, offering a breathtaking vista of the stunning scenery. Hotel Union Øye Hotel Union Øye is a historic hotel nestled along the banks of the Norangsfjord in Ørsta, Sunnmøre. Originally erected in 1891 in Swiss style, designed by the Norwegian architect Christian Thams, it boasts a lengthy tradition as a destination for mountaineers, royalty, writers, and lovers. I mean, peruse the list of legendary and illustrious hotel guests. I'd wager a hefty sum you'd recognize at least half of them. Kings, queens, writers, poets—they all savored their morning repast here. You luxuriate in tranquility and serenity in a hotel best described perhaps as the Norwegian rendition of the grand Budapest hotel. Truly, so exquisitely beautiful and tastefully appointed. Moreover, the surroundings are breathtaking. This is bucket list material, believe me. Dalen Hotel Norwegians describe it as the adventure hotel. And with that, the crux is largely articulated. Dalen Hotel, a historic establishment nestled in the historic region of Telemark, opened its doors in 1894 and seems plucked from an enthralling children's tale of fairies, kings, and magical creatures. The hotel stands as one of the largest wooden structures in Norway and boasts a rich history as a beloved destination for European nobility and royalty. It has been preserved in its original style, offering a unique blend of historical charm and modern comfort. Each space is breathtaking in its own right. If you're contemplating marriage, this is an excellent honeymoon destination. Tuddal Høyfjellshotel Tuddal Høyfjellshotel stands as one of Norway's oldest and most charming high-altitude hotels, nestled on the sunny side of the majestic Gaustatoppen. Originally erected in 1895 as a high-altitude sanatorium, today, you encounter the 5th generation Gurholt family tending to the premises. I first visited in 2020 and was utterly enthralled by the ambiance. It's somewhat secluded, imparting an exclusive feel. The interior, too, is breathtaking. Creaking staircases, exquisite woodwork, and traditional adornments abound, rendering a leisurely stroll through its corridors and chambers truly worthwhile. Activities such as flatbread baking, guided hikes, and special events are offered, and the hotel is a popular venue for weddings and celebrations. Order an aquavit, settle by the fireside, and transport yourself into a century-old time capsule.

  • Stay: Energihotellet; both James Bond and hike-enthousiasts feel at home here

    For somewhat dubious reasons, I recently found myself in Haugesund. Due to a significant disruption to my travel schedule, which resulted in a day's delay, I regrettably had no time to explore Haugesund. Therefore, you can expect an article from me about this illustrious place on the west coast of the country at a later date. Anyway, the plan was to drive back to my hometown from Haugesund, a journey that could be completed in one day, but would entail approximately seven hours in the car, which seemed rather long. Thus, I sought out a charming hotel to spend the night midway. A particular hotel had long been on my bucket list, not only for its location and architecture but also because the new owners had revitalized the place in an exceptional manner. It seemed fitting to dedicate a brief article to it. After reading, you will have: Numerous reasons why a stay at Energihotellet will elevate your Norwegian holiday Local attractions you should not leave unseen Why visit Energihotellet Energihotellet is rather isolated, which is immediately a significant plus. A glance at the map reveals a vast lake, one of the largest in the Rogaland region, winding narrow roads, and towering mountains. This is no coincidence. The hotel formerly housed temporary workers from the nearby hydroelectric plant, and sometimes still does. Speaking of the hydroelectric plant, it was constructed in the early 1960s, designed by Geir Grung, a Norwegian architect. The building has a somewhat brutalist aesthetic, evoking a James Bond-esque atmosphere. And I am sure I'm not the first one to notice. Mysterious installations in such settings always give me the impression that a helicopter could land at any moment, carrying some eccentric villain accompanied by dubious bodyguards heading towards the hydroelectric plant entrance to conduct some shady business in order to reset the world order. To the point: the hotel itself is not located within the hydroelectric plant but just above it. The design of both the building and the interior is a beautiful synthesis of functionalism, minimalism, and mid-century design. The new owners have added a delightful twist without compromising the original character. Much of it remains in its original state, significantly enhancing the overall experience. What I truly appreciated was the manner in which the food was served. Firstly, the breakfast. As a modern human, I have, to put it mildly, a certain aversion to buffets. The amount of food wasted is one symptom of an unsustainable system that disrupts the planet's livability. Energihotellet understands this. Here, no buffet but an excellently curated plate with delicious fruits, vegetables, scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, and various other toppings. Additionally, there was freshly homemade bread. Forget about those continental breakfast spreads with 10 types of bread, countless varieties of cold cuts, eggs prepared in six different ways, and numerous other unnecessary items. This is all you need to start your day fully satisfied. The dinner was equally excellent. It’s not haute cuisine, but the dishes are beautifully presented and predominantly feature local products. All very tasteful. Speaking of local products, they have a fantastic selection of apple ciders, one of Norway's globally renowned beverages receiving more and more recognition recently. Ask for a bottle of Humlepung, and for non-Norwegians, do ask to get an explanation of the name! Do it! Now that you have a bit of an idea of what to expect, here’s a brief summary of why you won’t regret spending a night here: Attentative staff: informal, helpful, and cheerful A rather stunning setting with a fantastic view Use and promotion of local products, adding to the unique character of the place and the hotel An excellent sauna you can book. As a great sauna enthusiast, I was immediately excited. Moreover, the view from the sauna is as spectacular as from the hotel. A feeling of intimacy and authenticity. They're part of 'De Historiske Hotell', a series of exceptional hotels known for their charm and originality. That says it all, doesn't it. The surroundings As should be clear by now, the hotel is situated in a wonderful area perfect for nature lovers and outdoor activities. The hotel’s car park provides direct access to several hiking trails, and the possibilities in the immediate vicinity are endless. Additionally, the hotel is located on the countryroad ‘13’ road leading to Røldal, offering postcard-like landscapes with snowy peaks, green valleys, spectacular waterfalls, and picturesque, ancient farms. This stretch of road is part of the legendary Ryfylke National Tourist Road , a must if you decide to vacation in this area. My favourite stop along this route is Allmannajuvet, part of an old silver mine. Recently, several evocative architectural structures designed by none other than Peter Zumthor have been erected here, which are well worth a visit. Nesflaten itself, where the hotel is located, is a tiny village. To give you an idea of its size: it has a primary school with a total of 25 students and often less, including toddlers, preschoolers, and children under 12. Speaking of which, years ago, a boy at this school chose to start a small shop as his project, which part of the Norwegian school system's practical or theoretical subject requirement. This shop still exists but is now run by a former teacher from this very school. Products come from all over the world: Nepal, South Africa, and, of course, Norway. Even if you’re not interested in beautiful handmade products, it’s almost a duty to Nesflaten to have a chat with the former teacher — truly a woman of the world!

  • Destination: Heroes of Telemark; The hidden gems of Norway's enigmatic region

    Many travelers to Norway have traversed the route from Oslo to the spectacular fjord landscapes of the west coast. This journey takes you through an expansive, mountainous, and forested area that remains rather underappreciated on many itineraries: Telemark. In this article, I aim to highlight a few spots that you might ordinarily pass by, but which are almost obligatory stops when crossing this region. By the end of this article, I hope you will understand that Telemark is a destination in its own right. You will at least know: Where to find the most spectacular views A secret museum hidden in the forest The most unique and spectacular hotels in Telemark The best bread and the tastiest buns in Telemark, and possibly in Norway Let's start with something to tantalize your taste buds for the journey. The very best cinnamon buns, skoleboller, and other treats are to be found at Mjonøy . I pulled over here on a Sunday afternoon and was astounded. First, the location is enchanting. A collection of ancient buildings, the sound of a broad river, numerous picnic tables, hammocks, and the chirping of birds create an idyllic setting. And then there are the buns. They are freshly baked throughout the day in a wood-fired oven. Yes, you read that right. A wood-fired oven. In one of the small buildings, they are beautifully displayed. The shop is unmanned, meaning you help yourself, calculate the cost, and leave your money behind. Norwegians use VIPPS, a payment app requiring a Norwegian ID number. Foreign visitors pay in cash, so ensure you have some kroner with you. The buns cost around 40 NOK each, which is very reasonable considering the quality compared to what you might find at a typical petrol station. This way of trading epitomizes Norwegian society, which is built on trust. I hope you appreciate how special this is and respect it accordingly. Moreover, you can rent wonderfully cozy cottages here. So, if you're tired of driving and prefer to continue your journey the next day, don't hesitate to spend the night in a lovely bed where you can hear the river murmuring in the background. An art museum in an unexpected place Within walking distance of the picturesque Mjonøy, you will find a very special building. The Smørklepp Art Museum in Vinje, Telemark, Norway, houses over 40 paintings by Henrik Sørensen and works by Harald Kihle. Sørensen, known for his lyrical depictions and expressive landscapes of Telemark, studied under Matisse and created public decorations. Kihle was renowned for his paintings of folk life and nature in Telemark, often featuring horses. From the summer of 2023, the Sørensenhytta hut near the museum will display original furniture by Sørensen. A walking path from Mjonøy leads to the museum. It is well worth the visit, offering an exceptional opportunity to admire exquisite art depicting Telemark, right in the heart of Telemark. The little brother of Preikestolen no one knows about I might be guilty of a bit of clickbait, but as I've heard, that happens often on the internet. Nonetheless, I am not exaggerating when I say this place tested my fear of heights, and my stomach responded immediately. Near Åmot, you can take the turn onto Ravnejuvveg. After a short drive, you park by a sign indicating the spot; Ravnejuv . Then, in just five minutes, you reach a breathtaking viewpoint. You stand on a cliff, and when you look over the edge, your gaze plunges 350 meters straight down. While this place has nothing to do with Preikestolen, you understand the comparison. Even Napoleon Bonaparte is said to have gazed into the depths here. The best part? Almost no one knows about this spectacular location, so you might have it all to yourself. The (real) heroes of Telemark I alluded to them in the title, but in a different context. The heroes of Telemark were a group of Norwegian commandos who performed remarkable sabotage actions during World War II to thwart the Germans' plans to develop an atomic bomb. If you want to learn more about this, feel free to watch the film . My point here is that all this took place in and around Rjukan, where a heavy water plant was located. Rjukan is a place where you can easily spend a day or two. I highly recommend spending a night at the Tuddal Høyfjellshotell . This legendary yet intimate mountain hotel left an indelible impression on me. The building itself is like a Norwegian version of Alice in Wonderland, filled with curiosities and historical artifacts, with every step on the wooden stairs causing a creaking sound. The service is so exceptionally charming and good that I hope you treat yourself to waking up here. The best view in Telemark Just a stone's throw from the aforementioned hotel lies one of the most remarkable hikes in the province. Gaustatoppen is a mountain rising 1,883 meters above sea level and offering a spectacular view over about one-sixth of mainland Norway(!!!). On a clear day, you can see nearly half of southern Norway from the top, making it a fantastic place for a hike. For those who prefer not to hike, there is the Gaustabanen , a unique cable car that takes you to the top in just 15 minutes. The cable car, which started as a tourist project in 1953, was later financed by NATO and used for military purposes for 50 years. It’s about a two-hour drive from Oslo. End the day in a sauna Norway has experienced a renaissance of sauna culture over the past decade. While it has always been popular, the number of public saunas scattered across the country has increased significantly, and Telemark is no exception. If you're vacationing in this region, you're in luck, as there are several spectacular saunas available for a nominal fee. Heit Telemark Soria Moria Sauna Gaustablikk Sauna The most unique and spectaculair hotels in the Telemark If you're on a road trip, chances are you've rented a camper or are camping, which is fantastic. However, if possible, I highly recommend spending at least one night in one of the following hotels. I have been fortunate enough to stay at a few of these places, and I must say that all these stays have left an indelible impression on me. This is largely due to the fantastic locations, but even more so because of the exceptional hospitality and immense charm these hotels exude. A small selection: Dalen Hotel Tuddal Høyfjellshotell Rjukan Admini Hotel Tollboden Hotel This modest article certainly does not do justice to the entire region, as there is so much to discover in Telemark. However, I hope my personal experiences have given you a little guidance to start your endevour! Godspeed!

  • Destination: Stokkøya Strandhotell; a rather joyous resort close to Trondheim

    I spent two nights at the Stokkøya Strandhotell , and it was an unforgettable experience. Although I rarely dedicate an article to merely a stay, in this instance, it would be a disservice to the hotel and its location to mention it only in passing. For numerous reasons, Stokkøya Strandhotell is a destination in its own right. With this modest little article I hope to: Convince you that spending at least two nights here will be unforgettable if you are travelling through Norway (forget about any hotel chains). Tell you about what it is that makes Stokkøya Strandhotell so exceptional. Allow me to begin with a small anecdote that, in my opinion, symbolises island life and the philosophy with which Stokkøya Strandhotell is, or seems to be currently operated. And for this anecdote, we must journey back in time. Immediately after Norway gained independence, the country experienced a period of prohibition, which sparked a lively smuggling trade. It was the fishermen who excelled in evading customs officers and smuggling significant quantities of alcohol. The story goes that one of these fishermen on Stokkøya discovered a stash of alcohol clearly meant for someone else but never collected. In those days, this find was likely worth a small fortune, which might have meant he could leave his hard life as a fisherman behind. However, instead of selling the alcohol, the fisherman decided to invite his comrades, fellow fishermen, and island residents for a celebration. It must have taken some time for the stash to be depleted, but one thing is certain – not a single crown was earned from the find. And as I imagine it, the entire island must have woken up with a colossal hangover. Perhaps this island-attitude to life captures the essence of Stokkøya, or at least that of the hotel, its staff, and its residents. Your Stay What makes this location so brilliant is that virtually everyone can enjoy it. By this, I mean both a very diverse demographic and people with different budgets. You can rent a complete holiday home with a group of friends and enjoy a magnificent view over the stunning bay (not within my budget) or book a fantastic hotel room furnished with Scandinavian design classics from both Louis Poulsen and IKEA. As a former interior designer, I chose the latter and was pleasantly surprised by the inventive simplicity of the design and layout of the room. From the innovative way the the ventilation system is 'packed away' to the shower controls and the amazing concrete skylight above the bed. Additionally, it is delightful that you have your own small patio where you can enjoy an ice-cold beer in the evening sun. Speaking of architecture and design, the vision of the architectural firm Pir II was to create such intriguing architecture that people would become more interested in moving to this remote municipality. Because Norway is so vast, some small towns sometimes struggle to maintain their population levels. This strategy appears to be working remarkably well, if only because it provided me with a reason to visit Stokkøya that I otherwise would not have had. Back to your stay. If you have a different type of trip in mind, you can rent a beautiful glamping tent right on the beachfront for a fraction of the price of a hotel room. The sound of the sea is truly the most relaxing way to drift off to sleep. Additionally, there is a fairly large field with space for at least 20 tents. This is the beauty of this place. It is not merely an exclusive compound where only the wealthiest of types stare each other down for whatever petty reason, as can sometimes be the case in the Norwegian capital. Here, different rules apply, and I greatly appreciate that. The staff is largely to credit for this atmosphere. Without exception, every individual here is incredibly friendly. I tend to believe that everyone who works here also wants to be here. The reception, the service, the cook, and the cleaners – I have rarely encountered such a relaxed, friendly, and helpful group of individuals. For the hospitality enthusiasts: I received a text message asking wether or not I was interested in reserving a table at the restaurant since there was a chance it would be fully booked due to increasing demand. That is customer service 2.0; you are assisted before you even knew you needed it. Food and Drinks Stokkøya is a relatively remote island. But it is 2024. So, it has never been easier to have virtually anything delivered to your doorstep at a moment’s notice. But what perhaps typifies island life, as when you arrive for breakfast here, it is immediately noticeable that almost everything is locally produced and, in many cases, homemade. And it goes far. This morning, I spread homemade chocolate hazelnut paste on my bread. The bread itself is baked just three kilometres away and delivered warm. All the jams are homemade, as well as the juices. Although I am extremely enthusiastic and hyped at the moment of writing, I can confidently say that this is the best breakfast I have ever had. Everything tasted honest and unique, unlike the majority of other standardised hotels. Simply said, the attention to detail and quality is on another level. Stokkøya Strandhotell boasts a fantastic restaurant situated in the beach bar with a compact menu. And this is precisely a recipe for success. The dishes they offer perfectly match the surroundings and are, without exception, based on what is locally available. Mostly excellent seafood, vegetables and lamb. The dishes are excellently shareable, meaning that when you are with two people, you can order almost the entire menu and thus taste everything. As mentioned, the dishes are relatively simple but in terms of flavour, texture, and ingredients, they are very satisfying indeed. And then there is the view from the restaurant. You are dining right on the beach and watch the sun slowly disappear in the distance before it sinks into the sea. Gorgeous... or romantic if that is your thing. I almost hesitate to mention it in a blog post solely dedicated to Norwegian travel destinations, but I will do it nonetheless. With this excellent dinner in mind, it can hardly be a coincidence that an incredibly charming Italian chef is at the helm in the kitchen. A cheerful and highly skilled one, moreover. Grazie! Activities I understand that the remote nature of the hotel might be a bit daunting. Let me immediately reassure you that you can entertain yourself here for days with numerous activities. The hotel rents out kayaks, paddleboards, and bicycles. They also have a sauna right on the beach, so you can run into the ice-cold sea with your sweaty body and loudly announce to the rest of the hotel guests that you have indeed gone completely under. About a 20-minute drive from the hotel, on one of the other islands, lies a rather fascinating cave that you can walk to (or 'hike' as everyone likes to describe walking nowadays). It'll take you about half an hour to reach the entrance of the cave, which reminded me of some massive cathedral. Most likely, this gigantic cavern was used in the Bronze Age as a defensive line when the nearby settlement was attacked by rival tribes. Who knows, I wasn’t there. You owe it to Stokkøya to visit the local bakery too . Housed in yet another architectural gem, you will find a very charming terrace where you can enjoy a cup of coffee and the most delicious freshly baked croissants, cinnamon rolls, and other treats. The bakery is about a 20-minute walk from Stokkøya Strandhotell. Follow the beach south until you reach a staircase that helps you climb the rocks, then follow the path over the rocks and through the forest. You will soon come to a red-painted barn. After that, turn left and walk a bit down the road, and you will quickly find the bakery. Do check the opening times in advance. What are you waiting for? I doubt you need any more endorsements, and for the average Norwegian, Stokkøya Strandhotell is likely already well-known, as the hotel has been in operation for about ten years. But if you have decided to visit this fantastic country, and you might only do so once in your life, I dare bet you will have an incredibly enjoyable time spending a few nights here, no matter the season. Indeed, I would not understand if, after reading this little article, you decide to book your stay with a generic hotel chain. Moreover, it is evident that the focus here is on the responsible use of food, resources, and energy. In these times of over-consumption, mass tourism, and the general depletion of our planet, this alone is an excellent reason to travel to this joyous resort. Besides, it is just over a two-hour drive from Trondheim, but since everything in Norway is at least a two-hour drive away, you can immediately dismiss that as a reason not to go. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Trondheim Airport (TRD). Public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Destination: a guide to Valhalla; when and where to see the northern lights in Bodø

    The Northern Lights have inspired some of the most dramatic tales in Norwegian mythology. The Vikings celebrated these lights and believed them to be the earthly appearances of gods. Other Nordic cultures, however, held a sense of trepidation towards them. They wove tales of horror and developed superstitious rituals in hopes of safeguarding themselves. Odin, the supreme deity and lord of Åsgard, commanded reverence and admiration from all Vikings. It was their belief that Odin chose warriors who met their end in battle upon Earth, guiding them to Valhalla. The Valkyries, mounted female warriors clad in armor with spears and shields, were tasked with ushering Odin's chosen warriors to Valhalla. The Vikings perceived the Northern Lights illuminating the sky as reflections of the Valkyries' armor as they traversed from the battlefield to Odin. In other Norse legends, the Northern Lights were believed to be the breath of brave soldiers who fell in combat. In yet other tales, they were seen as Bifrost, the bridge linking Asgard and Midgard, ferrying warriors to their final resting place in Valhall. For the Sami people , the Northern Lights did not recount tales of heroism and bravery. Instead, they regarded it with a mixture of fear and respect. The sight of the Northern Lights signified something ominous. It was thought to be the souls of the departed, and it was taboo to speak of it. Interacting with the light by waving, whistling, or singing underneath it was deemed perilous, as it could become aware of your presence. The belief held that the light might descend and carry you to the heavens, or worse yet, sever your head if it discovered you! Many Sami individuals still prefer to stay indoors when the Northern Lights grace the sky, just to be safe. No matter your perspective, it remains a phenomenon that captivates the imagination, even mine. I spent around three years in the far south of Norway, residing in Kristiansand. I frequently checked my alert app, hoping for a chance to witness the Northern Lights. I succeeded once, following a massive solar flare eruption. However, it was a bit underwhelming. I had ventured to the darkest corner of the city in the dead of night, ascended a hill, and caught a fleeting glimpse of a tiny, curtain-like, white cloud for a mere four seconds. Now, living considerably farther north (near Oslo) in an area with minimal light pollution, I am treated to multiple occurrences of the Northern Lights each year. In fact, there are times when I stand in my kitchen and chance upon white-green curtains dancing above the valley through my window. Each time, I find myself in utter awe and I take tons of pictures. If you happen to visit Norway between October and March, you stand the greatest chance of catching a glimpse of this extraordinary phenomenon. Yet, there are certainly no guarantees. Firstly, the (celestial) weather conditions must be favorable. A nocturnal sky with minimal cloud cover is desired. Ideally, a solar flare eruption directed towards Earth and potent enough to produce the Northern Lights. Then comes a measure of luck. You might find yourself sound asleep, missing the spectacle entirely. That happened to me countless times, waking up the next morning to seeing the most amazing pictures other people took. Nevertheless, you can increase your odds. Begin by selecting your destination. Trondheim, for instance, lies notably farther north than Oslo. Yet, the optimal choice would be Arctic Norway, locations situated on the latitude of Bodø and upwards. If you're truly dedicated, seek accommodations further removed from cities, boasting a clear northern view, and preferably featuring expansive windows. Let me provide you with the most amazing accomodations close to Bodø. yet far from city-lights in order to increase your chances: Manshausen The Arctic Hide away Folvika Northern Retreat Also, consider installing a Northern Lights app . You could even activate notifications alerting you to heightened solar activity and the subsequent chance of witnessing this luminous display. However, it bears repeating that there are no certainties. It's a bonus for those with good patience and karma if you will. Good luck! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Bodø Airport (BOO). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

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