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- Stay: a cabin in Norway; here's how to find the most spectacular ones
As I traverse through this magnificent land called Norway, I am often overcome with a strong desire to acquire a charming holiday cabin somewhere. However, reality often throws a spanner in the works. Firstly, it's a rather costly venture. The other hurdle is that the distances here are so tremendously vast that, apart from a few weekends, it's often not worth the effort. But fear not, for a solution now exists. You may be familiar with all the commonly used rental platforms, but forget everything you know about them. A new platform has recently emerged: Landfolk. What sets this platform apart is its focus on breathtaking locations, exquisite interiors, and well-equipped holiday homes of high quality. To cut to the chase, through Landfolk, you have the opportunity to stay in the most spectacular locations without having to break the bank. To convince you, let me share a few tips about areas that hold a special place in my memories. I previously wrote an article about Luster and its stunning surroundings. And that's where I'll take you first. Not long ago, two brothers decided to build a small holiday cottage high above the Lusterfjord. Nestled high above the Lusterfjord, you find yourself in a completely different world. From the terrace, you have a breathtaking view of the mountain ridges and lower villages along the fjord coast. Additionally, you enjoy the sun here until late in the evening, which isn't always a given in such mountainous areas. The bedroom is on the second floor, allowing you to keep your curtains open without worrying about curious sheep or foxes, so you can fully appreciate the magnificent view. Moreover, the cottage is tastefully decorated. Once you're here, you won't want to leave, so you'll have to accept that risk. Get a sneak peek here. The nearest airport is Sogndal, from where you can drive to Skjolden in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If you prefer something more rustic, then Bygstad is the perfect place for you. A beautifully restored farmhouse from the 12th century in a romantic farmer style. It doesn't get more spectacular in terms of landscape than the Norwegian west coast (of course, I may be a bit biased), and you stay right in the midst of it. The farmhouse is situated at 230 m above sea level and is perfect as a basecamp for excursions to Storehesten, Lisjehesten, the Skaraly day trip hut, and Bergsheia. This is a perfect spot when you're traveling with, for example, another couple or children. As the farmhouse consists of multiple buildings, you can retreat to your own space and gather again for breakfast the next morning. Furthermore, it's close to the Førde airport, which you can reach within an hour's flight from Oslo with Widerøe. I've previously described Senja in one of my articles. It's so breathtakingly beautiful that I've been contemplating how to return there as soon as possible for the past 6 months. Maybe I should leave it up to you. Because if you're truly seeking an exotic location, then Bjarkøy might be the right choice for you. Far above the Arctic Circle, surrounded by mountains and right by the sea, stands an incredible holiday home . The house is located in the northernmost archipelago of Norway, with 365 islands and islets, white sandy beaches, and Arctic swimming waters. The sea offers the opportunity for both boat and land fishing, and there is easy access by ferry, making day trips to Senja, Lofoten, Vesterålen, and Narvik easy-peasy. The view is surrealistically beautiful, and you have all the space and amenities you could wish for. A total of 5 beds, a sauna, a hot tub, and a pizza oven are just a few of the many features this house offers. If you're still not convinced, perhaps I should consider hanging up my blogger hat. No, I won't...of course. If you're planning to visit any of these cabins, it's very wise to reserve a car in advance. Since these areas are rather rural and remote, the availability of rental cars is limited. I'd suggest to reserve one right away as soon as your plans are a bit more specific. Check here for availability .
- Destination: 10 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Norway; what are they and where to find them
Norway proudly boasts a remarkable array of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, underscoring its rich cultural and natural heritage. These UNESCO-designated locales in Norway, celebrated as world heritage sites, encompass both tangible and intangible treasures (so, stuff you can touch and stuff you can not touch), firmly securing their place on the global stage. For those seeking to explore the historic tapestry of Norway, I made a nice list, marked on google maps. But what is a UNESCO World Heritage Site? A UNESCO World Heritage Site is a locale or expanse acknowledged by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) for its cultural, natural, or blended (both cultural and natural) significance. The primary aim of this distinguished designation is to pinpoint, shield, and perpetuate these sites for the advantage of both contemporary and forthcoming generations. This acknowledgment not only underscores the worth of these sites but also stimulates global collaboration in their safeguarding. Now that we've brushed up on that, let's transition to the inventory of World Heritage sites found within the borders of Norway. I've added a brief description of what they are and pinned them on Google Maps, so you can save them on your personal map. This ensures that you won't miss a thing during your road trip. Let us set off! 1. Bryggen (Wharf) - Bergen : Nestled in the city of Bergen, Bryggen is a historic wharf adorned with vibrant, wooden edifices. It stands as a testament to the significance of the Hanseatic League's commercial endeavors during the medieval era. 2. Urnes Stave Church The Urnes Stave Church stands as an exceptional specimen of a medieval wooden church, adorned with intricate carvings and regarded as a Nordic artistic masterpiece. 3. Røros Mining Town Røros, a meticulously preserved mining town from the 17th century, encompasses the town itself, its copper mines, and the encompassing cultural terrain. 4. Rock Art of Alta The Alta rock art showcases petroglyphs dating back to the late Stone Age and early Metal Age, depicting scenes of hunting, fishing, and everyday life. 5. Vegaøyan – The Vega Archipelago Situated in northern Norway, the Vega Archipelago embodies a cultural landscape reflecting traditional fishing and eider farming practices. It encompasses houses, fishing facilities, and a distinctive system of eiderhouses. 6. Struve Geodetic Arc The Struve Geodetic Arc comprises a series of survey triangulations stretching from Hammerfest in Norway to the Black Sea, utilized in the 19th century to meticulously measure the Earth's shape and size. 7. Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord This site encompasses two fjords, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, celebrated for their extraordinary natural beauty, dramatic landscapes, and cultural import. 8. Rjukan–Notodden Industrial Heritage Site The industrial complex at Rjukan–Notodden played a pivotal role in artificial fertilizer production, representing a significant chapter in industrialization history. Intangible UNESCO Cultural Heritage in Norway: 1. Traditional Music of the Setesdal Valley This element encapsulates the traditional vocal and instrumental music of the Setesdal Valley, mirroring the cultural heritage and identity of the local community. 2. Art of dry stone walling, knowledge and techniques This pertains to the traditional craftsmanship of constructing dry stone walls, a time-honored agricultural practice in Norway.
- Eat: in the spirit of Jeff Koons; the best dumplings in Norway
Setting aside the fact that I never truly embraced full adulthood, one could roughly pinpoint my entrance into maturity somewhere around the mid-first decade of the new century. It was likely during that period that the premises, which now houses Norway's best dumpling restaurant, must have served an entirely different purpose. Reflecting on the past, I vividly recall my initial visit to this establishment years ago on a freezing February evening, and I couldn't help but be overwhelmed by a gentle wave of nostalgia. The ambiance struck me as a peculiar blend, reminiscent of both a social room in a carehome for the elderly and a classroom from the late '90s. The Golden Chimp is situated on a corner of two streets within the district of Grønland. Grønland stands as Oslo's most "international" neighborhood, where the rich diversity of ethnicities subtly echoes all the armed conflicts of the past four decades. Personally, I find comfort in such areas, although I understand that the sentiment might not be shared by everyone. But I wonder off. I was contemplating and describing the interior of the venue. The walls are sparingly adorned with kitschy artifacts, peculiar images, and an occasional odd primate. And this brings me to the name: Golden Chimp. I'm uncertain of its origins, yet it brought to mind that (deeply ugly yet perhaps trailblazing) artwork by Jeff Koons, featuring the likeness of Michael Jackson and that peculiar little ape, which you can find at the Astrup Fearnley Museet here in Oslo. Nevertheless, the reason for my current reflections revolves around the fact that I have never savored such delectable and extraordinary dumplings before, and likely never will again. I would say these are the best in Oslo, if not in Norway. The ingredients they use are of exceptional quality, and their ability to surprise and delight knows no bounds, all the while staying firmly within the parameters of what I would describe as comforting cuisine. I would be eager to dine there when returning home and realizing the fridge is entirely bare. I would bring my Tinder date here, and the next. Your parents would probably love it. When in need to nurse your Sunday-afternoon hangover; Golden Chimp. When life feels overwhelming in general; Golden Chimp. If suddenly your Korean in-laws would happen to suddenly grace your doorstep and you're a terrible cook; Golden Chimp. When solitude calls and everything and everyone else can take a back seat, this is the perfect spot to relish your own solemn company.
- Destination: traditional Norwegian delicacies on the side of the road; gårdsbutikker
It is a frequent inquiry from visitors seeking recommendations for traditional Norwegian delicacies or gastronomic delights. While the customary response unfailingly includes mentions of pinnekjøt, rakfisk, and lutefisk, my enthusiasm for such culinary offerings is tempered by the sensation akin to suggesting a schnitzel to a tourist in Germany. This sentiment is not meant to slight schnitzels (or pinnekjøt), but rather to convey a concern that I might inadvertently overlook the rich tapestry of culinary treasures that Norway boasts. This sentiment is primarily rooted in the sheer abundance of exceptional offerings; it's simply too much to mention. Ranging from cheeses that rival their French counterparts to impeccable apple cider, extraordinary beers, and a diverse array of delicate and flavorsome meat and fish products. In light of this abundance, I am motivated to assist you in navigating this gastronomic landscape to savor the breadth of these delectable offerings. Hanen serves as a collective entity, an umbrella organization encompassing the majority of these producers, akin to a distinguished quality certification. Their invaluable contribution takes the form of a brilliantly crafted map (thank you Hanen) replete with recommendations and designated stops where one can procure and savor locally produced delicacies. Therefore, my foremost recommendation is to diligently consult this map as you drive the scenic routes of this captivating country. True appreciation of a nation is encapsulated in the act of tasting its essence. Should you chance upon a roadside sign adorned with the image of a rooster, rest assured it is invariably worth the pause. Consider, for instance, when journeying from Oslo towards the enchanting destination of Valdres (a journey I make at least 6 times a year). The Valdres region, for instance, has carved a niche for itself in the crafting of the finest Rakfisk. Notably, Noråker gård stands among the very finest. They have, on a previous occasion, been honoured with the title of best rakfisk during the infamous Rakfisk festivalen taking place in Fagernes. Yet, it is not solely rakfisk that crowns their expertise. They have a remarkable assemblage of deliciousness in their shop. I, for one, bought a bottle of pine needle syrup there last year. Yes, you read that correctly. Its flavour is reminiscent of apple, with a deep and mellifluous undertone. A scoop of vanilla ice cream accompanied by a drizzle of this syrup is utterly delish. This tale only grazes the surface of the hundreds of gårdsbutikker that are dotting Norway. Alas, it is an insurmountable task to spotlight them all. Seek out, start your electric rental car , and embark upon this culinary odyssey. Should you happen upon a magnificent discovery, hit me up on Instagram . Such an exchange would be nothing short of 'really cool'!
- Eat: the oldest tavern in Norway; traditional food close to Oslo
It was, akin to numerous occurrences in life, entirely fortuitous that I stumbled upon Bærums Verk. A form of pandemic weariness, the hustle and bustle, coupled with the exorbitant housing prices in Oslo, compelled us to flee the city. It was the midst of summer when we inspected an apartment without any intention of purchasing. While savoring a pizza and a pint at Melboden , we mutually decided that we were both rendered speechless by the romantic setting, curiously unheard of until then. The river coursing through the valley, the resplendent woods, and the overarching idyll – you can likely see where this narrative is headed. This became the place I have been living for a few years now. Furthermore, Bærums Verk is steeped in history, with its most recent chapter involving a group of Dutch venture capitalists who worked iron ore and exported timber. The industrial legacy of this era still stands in Bærums Verk. Along the river, a collection of exceedingly charming laborers' cottages grace the landscape. Additionally, remnants of the old factories remain, now housing a petite shopping mall. A venerable tavern, Værtshuset , also stands here, reputedly Norway's oldest (1640). Stepping into this deep-red edifice immediately engulfs you in traditional history typical for Norway. Furnished in a manner reminiscent of the 18th century, it could fittingly be termed romantic. The beams of the low ceiling dangle somewhat askew here and there, and a multitude of antiquated photographs adorn the walls. For someone with an affection for antiquities such as myself, this locale stimulates the imagination. The staff is garbed in classical Norwegian costume, momentarily transporting you to a sort of themed park. It's somewhat quaint, yet curiously, it harmonizes exceedingly well with the overall ambiance of the place. It's a bit goofy, but charming nonetheless. Moreover, the menu is exemplary. They serve splendid classical dishes, employing the best ingredients. However, the predominant attraction remains the setting. Picture yourself on a wintry evening. Half a meter of fresh snow blankets the terrain, and as you open the door to Værtshuset for the first time, the embrace of hospitality is an experience unlikely to fade swiftly. During summer, you can enjoy your lunch or dinner in the cozy courtyard. A tiny paradise I would say. Beyond Værtshuset, there's a wealth of sights to explore in Bærums Verk. The erstwhile laborers' cottages and barns I mentioned earlier have since been transformed into unique and highly original shops, galleries, and workshops. The glassblowing workshop, particularly active on Saturdays, allows one to witness with rapt attention the crafting of the most artistic objects. My unequivocal favorites are: Snekkerbua , a diminutive shop brimming with exquisite, frequently handcrafted utensils, woolen products, baskets and thingy's. Delightful! Melboden , purveyors of the finest pizzas in the area, housed within an enchantingly cute little building. Smelters Mathus , although completely unaffordable for the majority of mortals, I love gazing at their amazing food selection. In wintertime, Bærums Verk plays host to a most charming Christmas market, an image conjuring the coziest of scenes, but I will write separate blog post about that. **Getting there: Bærums Verk is easy accessible by car and public transport (Bus 150 from Oslo). Nonetheless, reserving a car in advance saves you a lot of time on public transport. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Hike: close to comfort; making a fire in Norway (and how to do it and when)
I must, in advance, temper your enthusiasm, for this article may not be relevant to most of you due to the stringent regulations surrounding open fires in Norway between April and early September. These restrictions are not designed to pester tourists but stem from the simple fact that Norway boasts abundant forests, and the summer months tend to be rather dry. Moreover, much of the ground cover here is often peat-like, highly flammable, and difficult to extinguish. If a fire were to break out, it would be nearly uncontrollable. Nevertheless, during the period from May to September, the weather is generally mild, and campfires are seldom necessary. But yes, making a fire in Norway: there's several crucial considerations that come into play. In particular order: 1. Use dry deadwood: preferably fallen from the trees; it is strictly forbidden to fell trees for firewood. In fact, depending on your location, doing so may incur a substantial fine. 2. Select a safe campfire location: opt for a beach or stony ground and delineate your fire site with stones to form a compact circle. This not only acts as a windbreak but also prevents the fire from spreading. Additionally, the stones absorb heat, enhancing the fire's effectiveness. Furthermore, when you retire to your sleeping bag at night, it's highly recommended to take along a well-warmed pebble wrapped in a woolen beanie to prevent burns. I dare say the stone will still radiate warmth the following morning which can bring great comfort to your overall camping experience. 3. Lighting the fire: you won't need paper to start your fire. All you require are a few birch trees with white bark. Without harming the tree, make a small incision in the bark, but do not press too hard on the trunk. Make this cut about 20cm long. Now, you can peel off a portion of the bark. Place the bits of birch bark in a dry bag to increase your chances of successfully igniting your fire in the evening. It's also advisable to pack a few pieces of dry wood in your backpack. This makes it much easier to ignite your fire when it's cold and damp. Use a sharp knife to cut a stack of wood shavings. The thinner the combustible material, the better it will dry and burn. When the rest of your wood is somewhat moist, you'll need extra heat to ignite the larger pieces. 4. Fire arrangement: Place the pieces of birch bark on the ground, surrounded by a circle of large stones. If the floor is wet, cover it with a few branches from a pine tree. Add a substantial pile of twigs and create a mound of wood shavings with your knife. Build a structure with large pieces of wood around the mound of twigs. 5. Prepare firewood: before lighting your fire, ensure you have a good supply of firewood positioned right next to it. As the heat increases, you can begin to dry your wood, ensuring you have enough material to keep the fire burning when the initial load has burnt out. Chances are you'll have a portable gas stove with you when camping, but if you're already starting a fire, you might as well use it to boil water and fill up your thermos for your tea the next morning. I always carry a small kettle with me, which I use for boiling water for coffee and rehydrating my freeze-dried meals. With a bit of rope, you can easily construct a tripod to hang your kettle from. In summary, here's what you need to make fire effortlessly: - Relatively dry wood - Dry wood shavings or birch bark - A dry bag - A lighter, matches, or a magnesium stick (though the latter is for the hardcore firemakers) - A multitool, preferably with a small saw blade and a small axe. I've personally used one of these for a comfortable amount of time. - A good, sharp knife (especially for cutting wood shavings) and to fight off aggressive Norwegians. My favourites are Mora Knives. Before even striking a spark, make sure you thoroughly research the regulations regarding making fires. You wouldn't want to be responsible for an uncontrollable forest fire, or catch a fine! In general, be a bit mindful.
- Destination: (by the mercy of) god and king; the most special destination in Finnmark
Allow me to begin forthwith by addressing a potent cocktail of circumstances that proved to be a fertile ground for adversity and disgusting atrocities: the nexus of greedy monarchs, the Church as an institution of power, and an ample dose of superstition and paranoia. Precisely this constellation unfurled its tumultuous consequences throughout the medieval era across the entire expanse of Europe. Witch hunts and persecutions became a grim fixture in the daily tapestry, Norway being no exception. Alas, it was women and marginalized groups, such as the Sami people, who bore the brunt of this sinister epoch. The allegations and prosecutions of witchcraft during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries are remarkably well-documented by local courts, offering a disconcerting insight into the sheer absurdity and cruelty that underpinned this phenomenon. In the town of Vardø, a poignant monument stands as a tribute to all those ensnared by the shackles of witchcraft accusations. The design hails from the esteemed Swiss studio of Peter Zumthor, renowned the world over. I found myself there on a mist-laden day in the heart of July. At first glance, the monument's structure evokes thoughts of the fish-drying racks that dot the northern reaches of Norway. A lengthy gangway leads you to the entrance of this architectural testament. What lies within left an indelible impression on me. However, I refrain from delving into detail, for I believe such an encounter ought to be experienced firsthand. As you emerge from the exit, a construction to the left caught my eye—an installation that, to my perception, conjured an image of a pyre, surrounded by onlookers. The grand mirrors poetically mirror the grim reality that the pyre loomed for the many back then. With society's hardening and the displacement of countless refugees, an unsettling parallel to our present comes into view all too clearly. The accusation and marginalization of vulnerable minorities stubarnly persist in our contemporary landscape. Another facet of this monument's beauty lies in its proximity to a tiny white church, seemingly positioned as an indictment against the pivotal role the church played in perpetuating the witch hunts. It made me to reflect upon many layers of history and meaning. Indeed, this monument alone serves as an incentive for a drive to Vardø. The town itself exudes a somewhat dilapidated charm, which, in a peculiar manner, harmonizes with the sense of an outpost at the edge of the world. Life has always been rather harsh here, dictated by the climate, limited economic activity, and the stark reality of Vardø's utter destruction during the ravages of the Second World War—scorched earth, as the harrowing term denotes, a lamentable all-time-low of modern civilization. Nevertheless, a voice in my head whispers that Vardø is undergoing a renaissance of some sort. One discerns it in the murals adorning the walls with the Codfather by Norwegian artist Pøbel as a highlight, in the surge of bird and fish enthusiasts, and in the presence of a superbly hospitable and charming hotel. Vardø, in an enigmatic fashion, endeared itself to me. Not every garden bed is groomed, and vintage Volvos from the 1980s languish in sporadic disuse rusting away the days. Yet, peer beyond the surface, chat with a passerby, and embrace the unhurried rhythm of this place. And be aware that the weight of history lies just beneath the veneer. Moreover, Vardø occupies a pivotal point on the Varanger national tourist route, extending its passage all the way to Hamningsberg. I deeply hope you consider my plea to pay Vardø a visit as in my opinion this is the most special destination in Finnmark. Should you find yourself swayed, I recommend securing a stay at the Vardø Hotel. Here, the art of hospitality is practiced with a pragmatic finesse, and a very skilled chef made landfall here too. Might one want to contemplate in a slightly more private and jaw-dropping setting, consider booking lodging right here. It's called 'Varanger View' for obvious reasons. From the window you will likely witness reindeer passing by...or catch a glimpse of the northern lights! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Kirkenes Airport (KKN) since there's direct flights from Oslo. From there it is most wise to reserve a rental car (long) in advance. Charging stations are rather scarce in this outpost of the world, so in this case rather rent a petrol car. Check here for availability.
- Eat: heavy meals while keeping it light; why I always bring dry food when I’m on a hike in Norway
I realize that the title might not sound very appealing at first. But let me tell you why the opposite is true. Every time I'm packing my backpack, I always find myself just a little short on space. I'd rather bring an extra pair of socks or another pair of trousers in case the first two get soaked. However, that space always seems to be occupied by food and provisions, depending on the length of the trip. You need to bring far more food than you'd initially think! And here's why. You wake up in the morning after a rather chilly night. You're hungry because you burn more calories sleeping outdoors. You pack up your tent, hoist your backpack, and trek for 5 to 6 hours before reaching your next destination. The terrain is far from flat; it's undulating, and at times, you have to take big steps to climb. Essentially, you're doing half squats for about 5 hours straight, with an additional 30kg on your back. You get the point. You burn significantly more calories than on a typical weekday, yet the inclination is to skimp on food. That's why I want to share what I pack for a long weekend or more in the wilderness. The main meals I bring are all dry food. My absolute favorite is REAL turmat. Meals come in various flavors and are fantastic in quality and flavour. All you need to do is boil a bit of water, pour it into the bag, stir a few times, and in about 8 minutes, you have a soothing hot meal worth around 500 calories. The fantastic part is that when you're in the middle of a forest or on a plateau, you suddenly find yourself enjoying a warm curry or stew. Besides being enjoyable, eating warm food provides a sense of comfort, especially when you're alone in the wild. The psychological effect of a warm meal cannot be underestimated. You can buy these meals online beforehand, which I highly recommend. It helps you realistically assess the space available in your backpack while packing. Depending on the type of trip, one warm meal per day is usually enough, along with a hearty breakfast. I often bring the cheapest dried packets of porridge. Again, they weigh next to nothing and take up relatively little space, so I always end up taking too much, just to be safe. They pack a decent amount of energy and are very economical. I also bring a large bag of dried raisins or cranberries to add some flair to my breakfast. Even better, if you're out in late summer or early autumn, you can harvest your own berries. What else you could or should consider bringing (or that I at least would bring): One container of powdered coffee/loose tea with a tea holder. A small container of salt and some of those sugar sachets you can "borrow" from your local coffee shop (no, don't do it, DON'T). A bag of peanuts or other nuts. They're rich in energy and iron, which is good when you need a pick-me-up. Also, your muscles need iron for optimal recovery. Some chocolate. Trust me, after climbing a peak, there's nothing better than treating yourself to something sweet. It also quickly brings any potential low blood sugar back up. My favorite: Tony's Chocolonely (child-labour and slave-free chocolate which is by far the best chocolate I ever had). If I'm going on a longer trip and unsure of the duration, I often bring a few sachets of potato puree. With a bit of salt, it's quite palatable. Optionally, some sachets of powdered soup. It weighs nothing and is delightful during a break. Again, good for your overall mental balance. As I mentioned, it's wise to buy the first batch of food in advance to ensure it fits in your backpack when you set out. I usually do my shopping in a regular supermarket, but I also order online. Sometimes, there are good online deals for dried meals. They might seem a bit pricey, but if you had to buy all the ingredients separately, your meal would easily be twice as expensive. It might sound rudimentary if you're not accustomed to it, but once you're outdoors and exerting effort every day, every bite truly tastes fantastic. So no you know what food to bring on your hikes when visiting Norway. And I'm curious about your experiences. Hit me up on Insta if you're eager to share!
- Hike: a few firm words from your spokesman on nature etiquette in Norway
Certainly, the title sounds much more tough than my intended message. However, in order to captivate attention for a matter of profound significance, I deemed it appropriate to select a slightly provocative heading. Sorry! This is due to the following reason. When venturing forth with one's backpack or camper, it doesn't take long before finding oneself amidst regions where the regulations of urban centers and civilized domains hold no sway. In this instance, I am particularly referring to the management of waste and, well, all the other byproducts that we, as individuals, inevitably generate. I trust you comprehend my intention without my needing to explicitly enumerate each and every aspect. Thus, allow me to offer a gentle reminder concerning nature etiquette in Norway and how one can play the role of a conscientious Samaritan while traversing this splendid and majestic land. First and foremost, it must be made clear that garbage trucks do not frequent hiking trails. It might sound obvious, but nevertheless, it seems necessary to mention, for all too often I encounter an array of litter in the middle of nowhere, items that certainly have no place there. Envision this: you are meticulously planning a hiking vacation in Norway, with a desire to journey from one cabin to another. You intend to carry provisions for at least five days. This entails considering that you'll be carrying the waste from those five days along with you. Because when utilizing facilities such as those provided by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), the likelihood is high that these cabins are situated in such remote locales that waste disposal simply isn't an option. Therefore, carry your waste with you and dispose of it only once you return to inhabited regions. Aligned with the earlier discourse, the subsequent matter holds significant import. During my travels across the nation last summer, I was taken aback by the volume of debris left by tourists at camping sites, on parking lots and on hiking trails: plastic packaging, cigarette butts, barbecues, candy wrappers, beer cans, soiled diapers, used tampons and what not. Herein lies the issue: the responsibility of cleaning up this mess predominantly falls upon volunteers from for example Likefintsomfør, Rydde Norge and Litter Submitter. And that's not because Norway's treasury is depleted, but due to the sheer impracticality of maintaining every nook and cranny of this massive country. Thus, I beseech you in a polite yet earnest manner, that if you stumble upon any litter, do pick it up and carry it along in your camper. Ideally, do so when others are within view. For a positive example tends to elicit emulation. Moreover, it bestows upon oneself a sense of satisfaction. Have you ever heard of 'the broken window theory'? It aptly applies here in my modest opinion. In the absence of litter, fewer individuals will litter themselves. The same as all the above holds true for Norway's expansive coastline. You can well imagine how challenging it is to keep 100,000 kilometers spotless. It might transpire that you've parked your camper somewhere, strolling along the shore when you come upon a fragment of discarded fishing net. No one else will remove it, so be a true gentleman or gentlewoman and retrieve it. It might seem like a mere drop in the ocean, yet if each visitor makes a modest contribution, the cumulative impact can be substantial. Now, my final point, and congratulations on persevering through this quite extensive discourse. Human excrement. Particularly at tourist hotspots, human waste has evolved into a pronounced issue. Take Lofoten, for example. The predicament stems from our consumption of numerous foods containing high concentrations of preservatives. As a result, the breakdown of said waste takes an astonishingly long time. Consequently, this excrement often remains strewn across the mountaintops of Lofoten for several years. Hence, exercise mindfulness prior to embarking on a mountain ascent, considering the subsequent travelers who shall grace that summit. Make a quick pit stop or carry a waste containment pouch. The same applies to hygienic wipes, which do not degrade. Following their use, enclose them within a sealed zip bag and carry them off the mountain. My gratitude, along with that of all other visitors and animals, is immense!
- Destination: the underdog of fjords; why Lusterfjorden deserves your visit
Late May or early June is undeniably the most picturesque time to pick the majestic fjords as your destination. Above 700 meters, a substantial blanket of snow often lingers, while the steep slopes and valleys burst into vibrant bloom. The greenery is so fresh and vivid that it almost dazzles the eyes. The snow appears as powdered sugar atop a delectable cake of pure beauty. For those with a penchant for cultural history, you might spontaneously find yourself whistling the tune of 'The Sound of Music.' However, once you've finished your melody, allow me to continue my tale. I first ventured here about three years ago, precisely around this time. It was a sun-drenched weekend. As a birthday surprise, I had rented a cottage right on the shores of Lusterfjord. From our bedroom, we could hear the thunderous waterfall, which plummeted some 400 meters down, about 5 kilometers from our cottage on the opposite side of the fjord. And as we savored our breakfast, a group of five dolphins gracefully swam by. It was all rather idyllic. Luster itself is an ancient hamlet tucked away along the fjord coast. It boasts a small stone church dating back to the year 1120, a handful of charming wooden cottages, and a terrace frequented by a few occasional tourists and Norwegian car enthusiasts of a specific make or model during the summer. There's a small supermarket, and that's about it. The village is surrounded by fruit trees and houses built in the 1940s and 1950s. The connecting road from the highlands is often no wider than one campervan, often necessitating some reversing to pass one another. The Norwegians tackle this with ease and a certain resignation. It has always been this way, and it always will be. A friendly wave is exchanged once vehicles pass each other. You typically stumble upon this place by accident as you make your way from the roof of Norway towards the well-trodden paths of the western fjord coast. Most people drive right past this stunning piece of nature, which, in my opinion, is a grave injustice. Therefore, I'd like to offer some tips to hopefully entice you to spend a few days here. First and foremost, there's accommodation. There truly is something for everyone. I, as a habitual penny-pincher, stayed in a reasonably basic but incredibly charming cabin on the grounds of Dalsøren Camping. As I mentioned before, it's right on the water, and that's precisely why you're here: the view. It's a charming, old-school campsite where as many Norwegians as tourists stay, creating a familiar and friendly atmosphere. People barbecue on the large stone pier, and children jump into the ice-cold water. The most spectacular stay has to be For the most romantic overnight stay, look no further than Nes Gård. Book the glass mirror house (Suite with Terrace, as it's called) with a breathtaking view of the fjord, the mountains, and the waterfalls. At Nes Gård, you'll instantly feel like you've entered an unreal paradise. This place exudes a down-to-earth magic that perfectly complements the surroundings. They serve typical Norwegian cuisine and are very helpful in making your arrival and stay as pleasant as possible. In my humble opinion, this is by far the best starting point for exploring Lusterfjorden and the surrounding areas. With various glaciers, Norway's oldest stave church, and numerous cultural highlights just a stone's throw away, you could easily reserve three nights here. You can also book kayaks, day trips, and, upon request, guides to show you around. Another equally romantic and idyllic location is Beste Bakken. To get straight to the point, here you can rent a glass house right in a field where alpacas graze (can be a little hot in the summer though). The incredible cheerfulness that this brings is sure to warm even the coldest of hearts. The same goes for the entire setup of Beste Bakken. Beste Bakken is an charming place where adventure, culture, and good food are the focal points. The buildings are modern and comfortable, rich in tradition, and offer a cozy, homey atmosphere. The other 14 bedrooms they rent out are of utmost comfort and offer a stylish (in the classical sense) backdrop for a rather romantic stay. All the bathrooms are exquisitely tiled, and several feature bubble baths. And there's also an outdoor jacuzzi. I mean, come on! The food they serve here is also of the highest standard. Fresh ingredients and the attention and love put into the dishes make the culinary experience absolutely unique. A significant portion of the ingredients comes from their own garden. And here, too, every effort is made to make your stay as easy and enjoyable as possible. Oh, and those alpacas - they're so cute. Book a night or two, it's worth every penny. If you're still not convinced to visit Lusterfjorden, let me give you one final nudge. On a stonecast's distance from Lusterfjorden, you'll find amongst a ton of other attractions: Asafossen Waterfall Nygaardsbreen Urnes Stave Church Wallaker Gallery I hope I've managed to persuade you. Lusterfjorden remains undiscovered by the masses, offering an exceptionally exclusive and unique experience. Here, you won't find long lines of camper vans, columns of motorcycles, or tourist shops selling trolls and quirky hats. Lusterfjorden is precisely the opposite: a place of warm hospitality that is seldom encountered. Lusterfjorden really deserves your visit! **Getting there: Public transport is a bit of a hassle (understatement), so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance at your airport of arrival. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Stay: in and around Ålesund (Alesund); the 5 most beautiful (hotel) stays
Ålesund, or Alesund if you have a non-Scandinavian keyboard. I had never been there! And as many of you are now aware, I've been living in Norway for about 8 years. It wasn't until the first summer of the pandemic that I truly began exploring the country. For a year, it was impossible to visit my family, and I had the (if I may use the term in this context) "luck" of being forced to spend my vacation days within the country's borders. The thing with this country is that it's too vast to just hop somewhere for a weekend without taking a flight. And my ambivalence towards flying is significant. I'd prefer never to step on a plane ever again, but due to family illness, it's unfortunately the only way to move between countries quickly. But I digress. That's why it wasn't until this year (2023) that I ended up in (Å) Alesund, yet not even in a hotel. And let's start at the end (or scroll straight down for my hotel recommendations). I had a few hours to spare before my flight back to Oslo. It was a sun-drenched day, around 24 degrees Celsius. Not exceptionally hot, but because Ålesund is right on the Atlantic Ocean, it can get a bit unpredictable here. I checked my luggage and had about 3 hours to enjoy. It was a bit too cumbersome to go back to Ålesund (Alesund). So, I decided to head to one of the beautiful sandy beaches just a stone's throw away from the airport. And here's something most people don't know: Norway has numerous stunning, snow-white sandy beaches. The ocean, especially on the west coast, is often ice-cold, but take it from me; once you flip a mental switch, focus on your steady breathing, and experience the adrenaline rush of the cold water, you won't want to do anything else. Long story short, I went for a swim instead of hanging around at the terminal. So, I arrived at the gate with sand between my toes. Ålesund itself is a very, very charming little town (you say 'Oooohllesuun' not 'Aeelesuhnd'). The Art Nouveau buildings give the facades a stately appearance. There are a ton of lovely restaurants, and it's a bustling hub for fast ferries serving the surrounding islands. But above all, it's the location that makes this city so extraordinary. While sipping a coffee by the waterfront, you can gaze out over the sea on one side and gaze at an alpine landscape with steep peaks, partially snow-covered throughout the year, on the other. Especially on clear days, this creates an overall spectacle that, in my opinion, is unique in the world. It might sound a bit cliche, but I've become accustomed to mountain peaks and fjords, yet the surroundings of Ålesund truly belong to a different category. That's why I thought it appropriate to guide you through this area by presenting the most spectacular accommodations. Places with views where you can leisurely take in the stunning surroundings. Because that's ultimately one of the main reasons you come to this breathtaking country. I'll dedicate a separate article to the highlights (literally) you can reach by car. But, as mentioned, let's start with your accommodation because that's what sets the tone for your travel experience. I previously mentioned the Art Nouveau buildings characterizing Ålesund. Exactly that elegance can be found at Hotel 1904. I always find it a bit complicated to use superlatives like "the best" or "the most beautiful" or "the loveliest" when I'm not talking about my girlfriend. So, I'll proceed with caution. This is one of the most beautiful and elegant hotels in all of Norway. Quite nuanced, don't you think? In previous stories, I hinted that I used to work as an interior designer. I can confidently say that I have a sort of professional eye for interior spaces. I immediately notice the materials used—not just the curtains but also the baseboards and the flooring. Then comes composition and lighting. But, well, I won't bore you with that. But if you even slightly appreciate beautifully designed spaces, book a few nights here. Especially during the darker months, this place is an oasis of perfectly styled contemporary coziness. I walked in during the summer out of curiosity, precisely because of what I just described. I was impressed, as well as by the staff, who welcomed me with understated warmth, despite the fact that I had a huge backpack on my back and was wearing flip-flops. Not exactly the typical attire for the clientele that usually populates the lobby here. All in all, I didn't stay here overnight because it's not budget-friendly for a simple blogger like me. But the beds are probably some of the best you can sleep on in Norway. Let me know how it is if you spend a night here. I’d love to hear. Now, from one extreme to another. Unfortunately, you'll have to take a little drive for this one, as it's about a two-hour drive from Ålesund. But if you consider that everything is about a two-hour drive in Norway, it's actually quite reasonable. This is one of those places you won't find on lists of "hotels in Ålesund" or other "best ofs" or "must-sees." That's because most bloggers are too lazy to get off their backsides and provide genuinely useful information to unsuspecting travelers looking for incredible experiences. It's all about clickbait, and then you find yourself lining up for Trolltunga to take the exact same picture as the rest of the world and get a few easily-forgotten likes. You might sense some frustration here. And that's correct. There are so many amazing places that don't appear in any blog post but offer unparalleled experiences that will last a lifetime. That's why I'd like to take you to Kråen Gård. In a remote corner, at the end of a dead-end road, stands a beautiful farm dating back to the early 17th century. Here, you can stay in all modern, Instagram-worthy splendor. Be prepared to witness the most incredible sea view you've ever seen in your life. Furthermore, the farm shop is of unparalleled quality. Amazing jams, apple cider, and fantastic cakes. Cakes I can no longer allow myself to eat since I'm over 30, and many of my shirts no longer fit from five years ago. But I digress. Where at the beginning of this piece I wrote that I rarely use superlatives, I'm doing it here. This is a fantastic place. The view, the set up, the remoteness. If I had to put it boldly; I’d say it’s Norway in a nutshell. Due to their limited capacity, accommodations often sell out quickly here. So, it's essential to reserve well in advance. And oh, what lovely people! I sometimes wonder who we'll still be talking about 100 years from now. Which writers stood the test of time? Which presidents left the world better than they found it? Which films became classics? Hotel Union Øye at least answers some of those questions by mentioning some former guests who enjoyed their breakfast here in the past century. Among them, Emperor Wilhelm (that illustrious figure with the peculiar arm), Karen Blixen ordered eggs Benedict, and Roald Amundsen had a glass of whiskey before or after reaching the North Pole as a reward for his efforts. Depending on where in the world you're reading this blog, this may or may not mean anything to you. I'm writing this with a European perspective, after all. What's undeniable is that Hotel Union Øye is on a list of places with exceptional allure. It initially reminded me of the Dalen Hotel, which I wrote about earlier. It's again one of those magical places that make you wonder how on earth you can have such an exceptional stay in such a relatively remote location. But that's precisely the appeal in the case of such locations, it's the breathtaking natural surroundings that truly make this hotel a destination in its own right. Besides its incredibly atmospheric interior, the walls here also whisper tales of history. If only those walls could tell us the secrets exchanged by European elites in these corridors, we’d probably have a bit of a different view on the historic events that shaped European history. The hotel is located approximately a 2-hour drive from Ålesund. As I mentioned before, that's relatively close by Norwegian standards. My favorite seasons for such places are autumn or winter, owing to the incredible coziness that permeates this hotel. Now, back to urban settings. There's another hotel in Ålesund that I haven't mentioned, but true connoisseurs would never forgive me if I didn't; Hotel Brosundet. Let me share what I find so exceptional about it. Upon entering, you immediately notice a monumental fireplace. Now, that's not my main point, but I wanted to mention it because a public fireplace taps into our basic needs without us often realizing it. The need for warmth and safety is ingrained in our DNA. That's why we're so often drawn to open fires. The fact that so much space is dedicated to a fireplace in a public area and brings people together, I find a beautiful and poetic thought in itself. It's evident that a great deal of thought went into this hotel. Undoubtedly, it's because the hotel is run by a family. This means that all responsibility for the level of hospitality falls on individuals, not on a faceless hotel corporation. Let me highlight a few aspects that make this hotel exceptional (and my apologies in advance to the owners as I'll likely leave out numerous details). Every Wednesday evening, a small and intimate concert takes place by the fireplace. There's a high tea every Saturday with an array of delights. The rooms are incredibly tastefully decorated. No sterile and generic color palettes here, but warm tones and exquisite materials. My interior designer's eye was thoroughly satisfied here. I believe that this hotel in Ålesund is a sort of one-stop-shop. They arrange everything for you to experience the beauty of the Norwegian North-West coast. If I were to win the lottery, I'd spend a week here. Mark my words! As a counterbalance to all this luxury, I'd like to make one more recommendation. That's for a 10,000-star hotel on a good weather night: under the open sky. As you know, I love camping, and whenever my busy schedule allows, I seize the opportunity to venture into the wilderness with my backpack and tent. The Ålesund area is fantastic for outdoor enthusiasts. From Rikshem, you can almost walk straight into the Sunnmøre Alps. I was there this summer and was deeply impressed by the towering peaks that surrounded me. In about a day, you can walk from Rikshem to Ytre-Trandal (from where you can take the ferry to the other side of the fjord and further towards Ørsta). Along the way, you can set up your tent near Storevannet. For more accommodation options and hiking routes, I recommend thoroughly exploring the DNT Sunmøre website and studying the UT.no map. I am worried, for it will probably take a lifetime to explore all the beauty in this part of the country. And I don’t have a lifetime (anymore). Well, this piece turned out much longer than I initially anticipated. I sincerely hope that my recommendations for beautiful stays in and around Ålesund (remember; it's 'Oohllesuun' not 'Aeelesuhnd') have inspired you to extend your stay in Ålesund a little longer than you initially planned. Please let me know on Instagram what you enjoyed most. **Getting there: If you want to efficiently explore all vastness around Ålesund I would like to advise you to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Destination: your sofa; watch the best (according to me) Norwegian series and movies
This isn't just a list I scraped together using generic search criteria from IMDB. The idea behind this list is to give you a bit of an insight into this country and also to nuance the cliché image that many people have of Norway. Don't get me wrong, much of it is true. Norwegians tend to be somewhat reserved, they only greet each other if they're more than 5 kilometers away from civilization. But where it all comes from is often best understood when you exaggerate it a bit. So, in no particular order, here's a list of films and series that I believe are well worth watching because they genuinely enhance your journey here and in a sense honour the Norwegian mindset and spirit. I should warn you in advance that some series can only be viewed through the Norwegian state broadcaster. But without resorting to too many obscure tricks, you can still watch most of them with a simple Norway proxy VPN connection (I'll give you a tip on the bottom of this article). Without further ado, let us set off: 1. Lykkeland: I watched this series with great attention. It paints a beautiful portrait of the early days of the new prosperity brought about by the discovery of oil off the Norwegian coast. You see how the farming society as it was in the 1950s gradually changes, ushering in a wave of emancipation, wealth, and small migrations. The diminishing influence of the church plays a strong role in traditional gender roles. The series is primarily set in and around Stavanger, which is still more or less the oil capital of Norway. Excellent acting by Malene Hovland Wadel, makes this series almost binge-worthy. Above all, it provides a wonderful framework for a time when high prosperity was not necessarily a given, but explosive changes in all aspects heralded a new era in Norwegian history. 2. Norsemen: One of the clichés I mentioned earlier is undoubtedly the Vikings. I understand that a group of marauding roughnecks captures the imagination. And rightfully so. In their perfected sailboats, they discovered entire continents (such as Greenland and what is now North America), founded Kiev, and realized that you could sail all the way to the Black Sea via where St. Petersburg is now. But the romanticization of Viking existence is sometimes overdone in my opinion. They were primarily farmers who, after a series of poor harvests, set sail out of desperation in search of better farming conditions (and raided and raped a bit while at it). The theory even goes that due to a massive volcanic eruption elsewhere on Earth, the entire globe was considerably darker and colder for several years in a row, leading to significantly poorer crop yields. It's difficult to prove, but the timing of the Vikings' voyages quite clearly correlates with carbon dating of the layers of ash found, among other places, in Greenland's ice. Anyway, to cut a long story short, you can, of course, watch the series "Vikings." Well-made and with a fair share of limbs being chopped off. Even more enjoyable is the English-spoken series "Norsemen." First and foremost, the actors have done their utmost to speak English with a heavy Norwegian accent. Additionally, you should actually see it as a parody of what today's society looks like, but set against the backdrop of a Viking setting. The longer you live here, the more visible and clear the parallels become. It's hilarious, I promise. But do watch the English-spoken one. 3. Med Monsen på vilspor: Lars Monsen is something of a phenomenon here (or a hero if you please). It was the very first series I watched when I moved here. That was about the first evening I sat down in front of the television, literally day one. And I was actually immediately in love with this sympathetic noble savage, in his bright orange jacket. The concept of the program is actually quite simple: Monsen (a seasoned survival expert who prefers animals over people) is dropped into the wilderness, and with limited resources, he must find his way to a specific destination. This series phenomenally captures the nationally shared love for the outdoors. Moreover, it brings you fairly close to the Norwegian national character, if such a thing exists. Plus, if you're interested in the outdoors and camping, you can learn an incredible amount from this series. Packing a backpack, taking the most essential items, and a thorough introduction to wilderness etiquette serve as an excellent foundation for your first visit to Norway (provided you're going with a backpack and tent). 4. Eventyr jenter: This fantastic series revolves around a group of adventurous (young) women who venture into the wilderness with cameras in hand. Depending on where in the world you watch this series, it's highly likely you'll find these women brave and tough. And that's accurate. Because in many countries, women have plenty to fear when they're out alone. And they get that fear primarily from us men because we can't keep our mouths shut, or worse, we can't keep our hands to ourselves. Let that sink in. Now, I'm not claiming that this series is proof that emancipation in Norway is complete and that we've reached enlightenment, far from it. But here, at least, it's safe enough for women to enjoy nature without being bothered by all sorts of hopeless individuals with a pair of testies swinging between their legs. Yep, I said it. And besides that, it is a marvellous series with a buch of great and diverse characteres. I hope it inspires you. 5. Almost every country has its own traumas to deal with when it comes to World War II (or any war). Although many of these traumas are universal, they have a lot to do with the national character and how things are dealth with in the aftermath. One important part of dealing with trauma is the films that are made of such events. Rightly or wrongly, they give us an image that we were 'good' in the war, even though it often turns out that only a tiny percentage of the population actually joined some form of resistance. But this awareness can also be called a trauma, and films are very effective in helping to process it. The best Norwegian war films, in my opinion, are "Max Manus" and "Kampen om Tungt Vannet." Both provide a beautiful glimpse into the Norwegian way of doing things and the national character. Universally, every country needs its heroes; ordinary boys and girls setting out to do someting extraordinary, that everyone can still identify with. 6. Verdens verste menneske (The worst person in the world): A hilarious and sometimes somewhat dark comedy about a woman who navigates her way through the tumultuous and sometimes confrontational existence of her thirties. The reason I mention it is that it is set in Oslo, and it gives you a great preview of what awaits you in the city. The outstanding acting, especially by Renate Reinsve and Anders Danielsen Lie, makes this Oscar-worthy material, without losing sight of the Norwegian mindset at any given point. 7. Rådebank: When you're on vacation here, you're undoubtedly going to encounter a phenomenon that leaves you in the dark: tire tracks seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Especially in the countryside, there's a lively car culture. This probably has something to do with the absence of too much entertainment, but even more so with a desire for community spirit and a sense of belonging. It's often young people hanging out at gas stations in Volvo 240s (an absolute cult car here) or beat-up American cars, playing loud music, and chugging all kinds of energy drinks. I must confess I have a huge soft spot for this kind of culture. Not because I identify with it, but more because it exists and was born out of a need. The series "Radebank" somewhat cultivates this culture but, more importantly, it offers a beautiful and touching view of youth culture in the countryside. Talking about feelings is not something they do much here, let alone in the countryside. This series makes you see things differently when you're on a road trip and you come across a house with a messy garden containing numerous seemingly unusable cars. 8. Home for Christmas: It was inevitable of course, the most delightful Christmas series you'll watch this year. It unfolds in multiple locations, with many of the typical Norwegian customs taking center stage. It's a particularly charming comedy with the usual ingredients; a complicated love life, a fractured family, and everyone feeling a bit lonely. And it all comes together on one delightfully festive yet unusual Christmas Eve. Pure indulgence! 9. Der ingen skulle tru at nokon kunne bu: A splendid portrayal of individuals residing in occasionally improbable locations. Spanning a total of 22 seasons, the series guides you through captivating narratives, breathtaking locations, and at times, unbelievable circumstances where Norwegians sustain a livelihood. Not only does this series take you on a magnificent journey across the entire country, but it also provides a beautiful insight into the mindset of the Norwegian, which often remains concealed. I often watch this show on sunday mornings. Absolutely brilliant! 10. Skam: ...which translates to "Shame" in English, is a Norwegian teen drama series created by Julie Andem. The show explores the lives of a group of high school students in Oslo, delving into various contemporary issues and challenges faced by teenagers. "Skam" gained widespread popularity (also worldwide) for its realistic portrayal of adolescence, addressing topics such as friendship, love, identity, mental health, and social issues. Some of what I've just mentioned can be viewed on one of the many streaming services, but a portion is only available through NRK (the Norwegian state broadcaster). Because it's not strictly allowed, but I believe there's no harm in wanting to watch fantastic Norwegian series as a non-Norwegian, here's my proposal for a bit of civil disobedience. With a connection from NORD VPN, you can enjoy all of the above and get fully into the mood before embarking on your journey to Norway. I hope you'll have a great time in anticipation (and let me know on Insta which one you enjoyed the most!)
- Destination: 'syttende mai'; how to join in on the celebrations of Norway's day of the constitution on May 17th.
After the Easter festivities subside in Norway, the nation not only embraces the arrival of spring but also eagerly awaits one of its most distinctive national holidays: May 17th, known as Constitution Day or 'syttende mai' as Norwegians say it (seventeenth of May). The 17th of May is Norway's Constitution Day, an annual celebration held on May 17th to commemorate the adoption of the country's constitution in 1814. This historical event followed the Napoleonic Wars, leading to the establishment of Norway as an independent kingdom, although the union with Sweden persisted until 1905. This day stands out for its unique charm, as every village and town orchestrates a children's parade. The spectacle involves students of various ages marching through the streets bedecked with banners and flags, accompanied by stirring marching bands. The profound symbolism underlying this event is the recognition that children embody the future. While in France, the grotesque (and old-fashioned) grandeur of the military parades down the Champ Elysees, in Norway, it is the children who take the spotlight, a truly enchanting sight; for they are considered to define the future of the country and therefore celebrated. Furthermore, May 17th is an occasion to revel in the nationwide celebration, casting a picturesque hue of blue, red, and white across the landscape (the colours of the national flag that is). The esteemed national TV channel NRK offers comprehensive coverage of the festivities unfolding throughout the entire country, leaving foreigners in awe. As an expatriate, I am personally moved each year as I witness the parades. They do send camera crews to even the smallest of villages, which I find so charming. In light of this, I wish to provide a brief overview of what to anticipate and how to actively partake in the celebrations, particularly during Constitution Day in Oslo, Bergen or Trondheim. Celebration 1. Children's Parade: The highlight of the celebration is the iconic children's parade, a tradition observed nationwide. In Oslo, the capital, the largest parade takes place. Schoolchildren, accompanied by marching bands, march past the royal palace, where they are saluted by the royal family. 2. Traditional Attire (Bunad): Many Norwegians don the bunad, the traditional Norwegian festive attire, during the celebration. This attire holds significant cultural and national symbolism as it refers to the region their family is from. My favourite might be the Norlands bunad, but I'll leave it to you to pick your favourite. And do ask people about their bunads. Everyone is honoured to get the chance to explain. 3. Culinary Traditions: Indulge in the tradition of enjoying ice cream and hot dogs on May 17th. Additionally, partake in barbecues, picnics, or other communal events that characterize the day. Most parks are packed with people, which supplies an excellent way to mingle and join the festivities. Some amusing facts 1. Diverse Bunads: Norway boasts over 400 distinct types of bunads, reflecting regional and traditional variations. Witnessing the kaleidoscope of colors and patterns during the festivities is truly captivating. 2. May 17th Cake: Kransekake, an almond cake, is a popular dessert on this day. Many people partake in a special May 17th breakfast with friends or family, creating a bustling morning scene. 3. Russ Celebration: Graduating high school students, known as Russ, also join in the May 17th festivities. They often have customized "Russ buses" and actively participate in the parade, contributing to the lively atmosphere. How to best experience the day 1. Children's Parade Participation: Whether joining the procession or observing, dressing in a suit, a nice dress, or festive attire enhances the experience of national pride and energy. 2. Appreciate the Bunad: While foreigners typically do not wear bunads (bit of a no-go really), take pleasure in observing Norwegians proudly donning these regional representations of cultural identity. The sight is just gorgeous! I love it equally much, year in, year out. 3. Picnics and Togetherness: Celebrate the day with friends and family, engaging in picnics in the park. The convivial atmosphere encourages mingling, fostering a sense of community rarely experienced during the rest of the year. A great opportunity to experience a completely different side of an otherwise rather introverted country. 4. Attend Local Events: Many cities and towns organize concerts, parades, and other activities. A simple Google query will point you in the right direction. The day often concludes with concerts and fireworks, depending on the town. 5. Observations on May 18th: If you encounter individuals wearing bunads on the morning of May 18th, it's a fair assumption they've had 'fun' during the night 'nudge, nudge, know what I mean'.
- Read: No, I'm not the only one; 4 more blogs about Norway
Although I would like to believe it, I am not the sole blogger writing about Norway. And that is not surprising. There is quite a lot to tell about this magnificent country; the landscapes, culture, history, food and so on. At first glance, Norway may seem like a rather homogeneous society but significant differences exist among all the various regions. In the southern part of the country, close to the Bible Belt, one might strongly adhere to the motto 'in God we trust,' whereas in the north of Norway, 'in cod we trust' gives a good impression of how people feel about the (state) church and the general mindset up north. And then there's the enormous variety in landscapes. The lush forests of the south and the appealing coastal inlets, the alpine terrain of Jotunheimen and the tundra's of the north. And all these nuances and differences causes an endless flow of inspiration for me to write down everything I find so magnificent about living here. Anyway, I digress a bit. The reason for this article is actually to elevate the diversity of blogs focusing their attention on Norway to a pedestal. Feedspot has already helped with that by compiling a list of 15 blogs that are worth mentioning for their relevance and originality. A fun fact; HA DET MAMMA is found in fourth place. Of course, that's not the point, but the internet loves lists, and I am no exception. Therefore, it seemed appropriate to present to you my favorite blogs about Norway. In fact, as a relative newcomer in this world, I do look up a bit to these diligent individuals. For answers to all your questions (including the most frequently asked ones according to Google), turn to Norway with Pål 2. Highly organized and an excellent series of travel and accommodation tips expertworldtravel.com 3. of my favorites, and a topic that hardly gets covered on HADETMAMMA; social codes in Norwegian society. Very entertaining to read; the social guidebook 4. And finally, a guilty pleasure; recipes for excellent saffron buns, traditional Scandinavian fare, and fantastic sandwiches. Moreover, the tasteful photography will make your mouth water! Have a look! Moreover, I am naturally quite curious about you. Are you also a blogger, and do you write about Norway? Do inform me. It would be delightful to exchange thoughts sometime. Find me on the socials!
- Destination: a beer made of birch bark at the foot of Jotunheimen; when in Lom, Norway
It is, of course, a wholly pointless exercise to debate matters of taste. So, let me refrain from doing so. I cannot help but appreciate that my favorite beer is brewed in a rather new brewery in Lom (Norway), a tiny village nestled amidst a convergence of several mountain passes. The Lomb Brewery hasn't been around for very long, but you wouldn't know it. And that probably has something to do with the craftsmanship of the staff, the availability of exceptional ingredients, and the historically steeped location. The name of my preferred beer speaks for itself: Bjørk (birch). A concentrate of birch bark lends the beer a subtly sweet undertone. I must honestly confess that I haven't yet sampled all of their brews, but that implies I'll likely derive much enjoyment from them in the future. If you find yourself in Lom, do make a point to visit the Lomb Brewery at the very least. You can taste their beers, purchase them, and most importantly, feel free to inquire the staff about their products as they take great pleasure in sharing their knowledge. While you're in Lom, you might as well drop by the bakery for a cinnamon bun. There's a chance you'll have to queue up for a bit. That's not only because bakeries in this part of Norway are somewhat scarce but also because this particular one is exceptionally good. The optimal experience is during the quieter hours on a weekday. Sometimes, the hordes of tourists can strain the overall logistics there, leading to rather accidic comments on TripAdvisor. If you've had your fill of Lomb's beers and the comfort of a cozy bed beckons, consider the Fossheim Hotel. The building housing the hotel looks splendid and exudes a delightful aroma of wood. Besides its charm, this hotel also boasts the finest menu in Lom, offering delicately crafted dishes beautifully presented. Might there be any need to cleanse your sinfull mind, have a look at the beautiful Lom Stavechurch. It's ancient and magical! Lom is also an excellent starting point for further explorations of Jotunheimen and Breheimen. So you know! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive either at Ålesund Airport (AES) or from Oslo Airport (OSL). Either way, public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Destination: blue-blooded alure in Dalen; a romantic fairytale hotel in Telemark, Norway
Dalen has it all. A baker, a little supermarket, a lawyer, a fire station, and... quite possibly the most beautiful and impressive hotel in Norway; the legendary and historic Dalen Hotel. Of course, this is entirely subjective. But it undeniably exudes allure. In fact, if you have blue blood, there's a chance that one of your European royal or noble ancestors has stayed here before. When tourism in Telemark began to flourish in the early 19th century, thanks to the famous Telemark Canal among other attractions, there arose a need to provide accommodation in the form of a breathtaking hotel for the European elites. Among them were the last German Emperor Wilhelm, who later spent his final days in exile in the Netherlands, the King of Belgium, and members of Scandinavian royal families who sought leisure here. What remains now is a hotel with an ambiance and a blue-blooded alure that is unparalleled in Norway. A grand entrance, heavy leather armchairs, and hand-printed wallpaper. The craftsmanship of all the woodwork alone is breathtaking. They have various rooms and suites, all exuding the same stately charm. If it was up to me, I would choose the Dalen Suite. This is by far the most romantic hotel in Telemark, if not in Norway. Perhaps you decide to stay elsewhere, but it's still worth parking the car for a moment and taking a look. When in Dalen, Vidsyn Mydjås is a fantastic choice too. But be warned, once you're there, you won't want to leave anytime soon. They rent out two breathtaking cottages with amazing views. Additionally, there's a beautiful sauna and a communal area where you can shower and enjoy your breakfast. This is one of those hidden gems that you'll regret not having visited. You can book through AirBnB, but it's better to book directly with them. That way, the owner benefits the most. If you're on a bit of a limited budget, consider booking your overnight stay at the bed and breakfast in Dalen. The rooms are tidy and clean. Nothing out of the ordinary, just fine! What also makes Dalen a destination is an architectural masterpiece of a sauna, called the Soria Moria Sauna, designed by Feste. As you sit and sweat, you'll gaze out over the stunning landscape and the vast lake. You can pre-book the sauna for 300 NOK. For that money you can relax for 2 hours with 5 people. It's almost like it's free! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive from Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability. **Warning: Avoid the Buøy Camping. A few too many dubious reviews both on Google and Tripadvisor.
- Music: it's all from the north; an introduction to Norwegian music
I dare to call myself a fervent music enthusiast, with a strong preference for everything Scandinavian, and in particular Norwegian. When I was a kid, my father was really quite strict about classical piano, believing there was no other "real" music than classical. Even as an eight-year-old boy, I found this to be a rather extravagant and grotesque statement. It wasn't long after that, while alone at home, lying on my stomach, that I accidentally tuned the small radio we had to a jazz station. That moment changed everything. I fell in love, quite literally. I experienced a warm, pleasurable sensation in my stomach. It was a combination of euphoria, fear, and curiosity. Partly because I was afraid my father would come home and discover my extramarital adventures with the radio. I heard rythms I had never heard before, and the famous 'blue note' chords gave me the shivers, in the good sense of course. Over the years, my taste evolved, developing a rather specific preference for obscure music, which in many cases happened to all come from the north. Allow me to mention a few of my absolute all-time favorites: Esbjörn Svensson Trio, Nils Petter Molvær, Trentemøller, Tord Gustavsen Trio, Røyksopp, Bugge Wesseltoft, and Lulu Rouge. But I won't bore you further with my eccentric music preferences. Instead, I've curated a little playlist on Spotify featuring only Norwegian artists. You'll find plenty of pop, some electronic, and a touch of jazz. Not too much jazz, because I want to keep you here. Anyway, you hopefully catch a bit of the Northern atmosphere while planning your Norwegian adventure. Immerse yourself!
- Destination: the battle of Narvik... to become an amazing ski destination in Norway
The title of my article may not do justice to Narvik, or perhaps it does, in a way. It's true that the title might seem a bit unfortunate. But it is what Narvik is best know for (internationally). During World War II, Narvik abruptly became a part of recent world history in a rather brutal manner. It stood as a strategic hub, boasting an ice-free harbor from which Swedish iron ore was shipped. Consequently, it drew the attention of both the German occupiers and the Allies, leading to a fierce conflict. Nearly 80 years later, Narvik has once again found itself in the spotlight, thanks to the eponymous film "Narvik" on Norwegian Netflix (you might need a VPN to be able to watch it if you're not from here) which delves into the wartime events that left an indelible mark on this town of 14,000 souls. Narvik, situated in the heart of the Arctic region, primarily serves as a transit route. A railway from the Swedish mining town of Kiruna traverses the picturesque Abisko before reaching the export port in Narvik. There, colossal cargo ships dock to transport iron ore to factories elsewhere. Narvik is also where Finnish holidaymakers often cross the border and take a right towards Lofoten and Senja. With Tromsø as a major competitor in the Arctic region, Narvik faces its share of challenges. Nevertheless, despite various hurdles, I have a sense that Narvik is on an upward trajectory, evident not only in its record-low unemployment rate but for it's increadibly welcoming population. And...because of the following: Narvik boasts several superb and modern ski slopes, easily accessible by cable car (and a complimentary ski bus). The view you'll enjoy from your snowboard is unparalleled, and the ski passes are reasonably priced. How often do you get to have a sea view directly from the slopes? Particularly during the "blåtime" (the blue hour), it's truly magical. Moreover, you can take skiing lessons during the cold seasons. Since Narvik isn't yet a widely recognized ski destination, it's rarely overcrowded, and you won't encounter many tourists. And besides, snow and cold is guaranteed here. Which can't be said about the Alps anymore. For your stay, I have the most amazing recommendation that provides the best view money can buy (or rent actually) in Narvik: Camp 291. A series of lavishly equipped design cabins, located very close to the ski slopes, will turn your winter adventure into a wonderfully cozy experience. Due to minimal light pollution and expansive windows, you'll be treated to the finest view of the enchanting Northern Light s (if you're lucky - no guarantees). Especially in winter, you'll feel like you're in another world up here. Down the mountain, on one of the main squares, you'll find Fiskehallen, adjacent to Fiskekroken Restaurant. The highly enthusiastic and service-oriented staff here serve sublime fish dishes. It's not haute cuisine, but rather wonderfully prepared comfort food. This is precisely what you want to eat after a long day outdoors. Their signature dish is a must-try: grilled boknafish! How often do you come across a restaurant with almost exclusively 5-star reviews? Precisely, never-evah! For history enthusiasts, Narvik and its surroundings are a destination in their own right. Firstly, there's the war museum (which, shame on me, I didn't visit when I was there). Additionally, you'll encounter a war memorial almost every kilometer you travel. Moreover, you can go diving to explore the numerous wartime wrecks resting on the fjord's bottom. It must be an impressive experience to come face to face with the silent witnesses of Narvik's violent and now silenced history. Furthermore, Narvik is surrounded by magnificent natural beauty. Both towering mountains and coastal areas offer endless opportunities for multi-day hikes and fishing adventures. You understand by now. If you're on your way to Lofoten, look to your left, because that's where Narvik is. Especially in winter, it's a fantastic stop for a few days of skiing with the most incredible view imaginable. Still undiscovered by the masses, Narvik is on the winning hand in the battle of becoming an amazing Norwegian skidestination.
- Destination: the cleansing effect of a church and a spa (the best in Norway)
At the very end of one of Oslo's metro lines lies the district of Mortensrud. A quick Google search will bring up all sorts of information that does little justice to Mortensrud's image. House prices are considerably lower there, and the number of police reports is significantly higher than the Norwegian average. Having lived in Amsterdam for a long time, it has taught me not to be swayed by such information. And that's why I believe it's worth having more people visit Mortensrud, if only to experience the magnificent church that was completed there in 2002. Designed by Jan Olav Jensen and Børre Skodvin, this architectural masterpiece is truly a work of art. As a fervent admirer of architecture, I consider it to be one of the, if not THE most beautiful building in Oslo. If the church atmosphere hasn't managed to cleanse your soul just yet, then the nearby resort hotel called 'The Well' is just a stone's throw away. For a thorough detox from urban life, this is the finest haven I can imagine. A hammam, sauna, luxurious swimming pool, a Japanese onsen—the list goes on. I believe you could easily dedicate two days to this blissful retreat as it can easily be called the best spa in Norway. In addition, a visit to The Well serves as anthropological fieldwork, allowing you to observe the very special 'luxury-seeking-Oslo breed' in all its diverse plumage. I would suggest this to be the grande finale to your visit to Oslo/Norway. Check here for availability.
- Destination: chronicles on a pillar and a fairytale hotel; at the foot of Galdhøpiggen
When it comes to matters of taste, opinions may differ, but personally, I consider the mountain pass from Lom to Sognefjorden as the most exquisitely picturesque route throughout all of Norway. It's an experience that truly warrants traversing in both directions. Moreover, along this road lie several extraordinary spots, beyond the breathtaking viewpoints, where one simply must pull over and pause. And luck has it a rather surprising fairytale hotel is located close to Galdhøpiggen, Norway's highest mountain. This hotel at the foot of Galdhøpiggen immediately ignites the imagination of those blessed with even a modicum of vision. Reflecting upon this place, I am instantly transported to a realm reminiscent of medieval times. Imagine a vivid azure river, its currents wild and untamed, flanked by towering mountains on either side. Amidst this enchanting scene, one discovers aged wooden farmsteads, clad in weathered tar-coated timber, alongside dilapidated sheds and ancient stone bridges. The Elveseter Hotel itself feels akin to a living museum, adorned with a collection of paintings spanning diverse eras, antique tools, and peculiar curiosities. The entire complex exudes an atmosphere evocative of a captivating fusion between the cinematic masterpiece "The Shining," the ethereal realm of Rivendel from "Lord of the Rings," and the idyllic serenity of a Swiss alpine meadow. For an extra touch of romance, consider reserving the Omonstugu for your overnight stay, where you shall slumber in a wooden canopy bed—a rather romantic experience. Adjacent to the Elveseter Hotel stands a grand and enigmatic pillar, shrouded in mystery; the 'Sagasøyla' or 'Chronicles Pillar'. The sculpture adorning this pillar depicts a series of historic events that played a pivotal role in the formation of Norway. Once again, one cannot help but draw comparisons to the enchanting realm of "Lord of the Rings." Not in the last place, should this location be on your list of destinations. The Elvesæter hotel lies at the foot of Norway's highest mountain, which is a 'must-climb' for every outdoor enthusiast! **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Oslo Airport (OSL) or at Ålesund Airport (AES). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Gear: put your back into it; the most comfortable backpack on the market
In November of last year (2022 that was, in case you're reading this in 2034), I was about to start a new job. I still had around 7 unused vacation days left from my previous employer, which I was forced to take out before leaving in December. However, it was November, and I live in Norway. That means it gets quite dark early, and there might already be snow in many of the more mountainous areas. It's like an in-between month—not quite autumn, not quite winter. Secretly, I really wanted to spend some time outdoors. I started checking the snow depths and, to my surprise, found that in an area I know well (Hemsedal and Valdres), there was hardly any snow, at least not below 1000 meters. I decided that this would be my plan. I started planning my route and, more importantly, gathering everything I thought I would need. Without going into detail, here's a brief list: a sleeping bag comfortable down to -10°C (which is really chunky), a tiny light-weight tent, a hammock, a tarp, extra shoes, 6 days' worth of food, a sleeping pad, an axe, a saw, and enough dry clothes. As you can imagine, the amount of stuff started piling up. The thing with these types of trips is that depending on the season and the duration of your trip, the size of your backpack can vary greatly. In November, for instance, I need more volume due to the need for warm and extra dry clothing. I also bring a thicker sleeping bag (I have two). Additionally, you require more energy to stay warm, so you need to carry more food because you simply burn more calories. Moreover, I need equipment for making a fire, and so on. In the summer, you can get by with fewer clothes, and in many cases, making a fire is prohibited. Anyway, you get the idea. I'm not sure if it's a hard and set-in-stone rule, but I've noticed that for hikes longer than 5 days, I need about 10 extra liters of baggage space. So, that's important to consider when choosing a new backpack. You take into account whether you'll be going out only in the summer and how many nights you expect to spend outdoors. That's how you decide on the size of your backpack. Since I'm one of those idiots who prefer spending longer periods in the outdoors, I bought the largest one: 70 liters. It sounds big, but believe me, it fills up really rather quickly. I have one from Osprey. Those backpacks are simply the most comfortable I have ever had on my back. I especially like how the hip belt feels, and you hardly feel like you're carrying 35kg on your back. As for its appearance, I couldn't care less. It just needs to be comfortable and practical. But if you're planning to go on some long hikes here in Norway, I highly recommend packing a backpack instead of a suitcase. It provides so much more flexibility. Besides, it's often much more expensive to buy one here in Norway than online, so it's better to get it beforehand and test-pack for your trip. I'm not a brand ambassador or anything, I just genuinely prefer Osprey. They're just so comfy on spots where it would otherwise start to hurt after a few days of hiking. What I can really recommend before you head out, is Now, let me tell you how my trip went. Well, it was pretty cold in the beginning with temperatures dropping to around -10°C at night. I started from Hemsedal and ventured into the mountains towards Tisleifjorden. It was amazing; I encountered a massive herd of wild reindeer that initially paid little attention to me. It was truly awe-inspiring to see and I think I spent almost an hour just observing them. I also came across quite a few 'ryper' (I think that's a type of grouse in English). They turn white in winter to protect themselves from predators. It was 6 fantastic but quite demanding days. Eventually, my Hanwag boots didn't really stay dry anymore, and I ended up with some nasty blisters that got some rest when I reached one of the DNT cabins on the last day. But it was unbelievably magical. I hope you get to experience something like that during your stay too.
- Drink: the best bar in Tromsø that feels like a livingroom full of friends
Envision this scene: You stand amidst the aisles of a supermarket, facing an array of jam jars, each flaunting an assortment of around thirty diverse flavours, leaving you in a state of indecision. A predicament indeed, particularly when one considers that jam is merely the first item on a list of forty-five other items on your shoppinglist. Yet, in the best bar in Tromsø, Agenturet, such conundrums cease to exist. The sole decision demanding your attention is the choice between left and right. On the left, you'll find the wine bar; on the right, the beer bar. Moreover, these two domains elegantly intertwine in the rear of the establisment. Should you regret your choice for left or right, well, reconsider whilst being inside and simply swap sides. Don't be intimidated by the word 'winebar'. Should you not be an adept connoisseur of Chiantis and Pinots, worry not. Merely convey your favoured flavours, and you shall be presented with a direct hit to your preferred palate. The same principle extends to the realm of beer. I count myself as equally enamoured of beer as I am of wine. As long as a flavour intrigues, bewilders in the most delightful manner, and ultimately gratifies, I stand content. Truly, whether a bottle costs 5 (dollars, pounds or euro's) or 50 bears little significance. Let alone indulging in obsceen displays of my refined tastes. My joy lies in the realm of surprise. No mattter what the price. The revelation arrived through a beer on the 'beer side' of the establishment. Paradoxically, after my prior proclamation against flaunting expensive tastes, I can unabashedly declare this the most expensive beer I've ever paid money for. However, the cost isn't the focal point; rather, it's the fact that it happened to be the last available of the 'Neon Raptor Carrot and Walnut Cake Pastry Stout'. Yes, you read that correctly. This particular brew was emphatically recommended to me by a fellow beer enthusiast, who, incidentally, also happened to worked at Agenturet. Stout, a type of dark beer, frequently exudes a sweet undertone. Nonetheless, never before had I encountered a Stout that evoked thoughts of carrot cake. Remarkably delectable and worthy of every penny spent. The stewardship of this establishment by beer aficionados, harbouring a distinct preference for obscure, independent, and diminutive breweries, scarcely surprises. The gentlemen tending to the bar narrate their recommendations with an enthusiasm as if it were their first day on the job. Curiously, this enthusiasm proves most inspiring. Beyond the realms of fine dining establishments, such fervour is a rarity in the hospitality sector (altough the word 'hospitality' clearly suggests the opposite). Hence, Agenturet emerges as a resounding recommendation for anyone paying Tromsø a visit. As the title implies, the atmosphere within is profoundly convivial; the coziest bar in the Arctic if it was up to me. An ambiance akin to that of a comfortable living room pervades the space. One table accommodates a group of six students engrossed in a game of Besserwisser, while a slightly older Italian couple finds it nearly impossible to conceal their subtle smiles. The majority of the clientele is comprised of local Tromsø'ers (if they can even be called that). It's truly one of those locales that one is loath to depart, a place that indubitably contributes to the indelible memory of Tromsø. Such establishments deserve far more credit then they usually do. Equally contributory to an enchanting stay is one's lodging. Pertaining to Tromsø, I present two recommendations for surprising reasons: light, or rather, the absence of it. In the summertime, darkness is an anomaly in Tromsø. To ensure and undisturbed night of sleep, thick curtains and effective sound insulation, adept at quelling the incessant squawks of seagulls, are indispensable. In this regard, the Skaret Studios excel. Permit me to assert, as a former interior designer (yes, I was that in a not so distant past), that these petite studio's are splendidly designed and decorated with both warmth and elegance. Another rationale for my endorsement lies in the autonomy they supply. Equipped with a tiny kitchen, one can either consider to shop for breakfast, or to explore local eateries. This variability lends charm, diverging from the standardized hotel breakfasts. And, there's simply just too many great bakeries in Tromsø to leave unattended. The second recommendation finds relevance during the dark months in the north, particularly when one can marvel at the Northern Lights in Tromsø. During such instances, impeding one's view with curtains is a bad idea. Rather, one craves candlelit ambience, a sumptuous bed with an expansive view of the nocturnal heavens. Should the need arise to rouse from slumber in the dead of night, there is a big chance one awakens to the splendid undulating emerald northern light curtains straight overhead. For this scenario, I advocate selecting the Aera Panorama Lodge. Analogous to the visit to Agenturet, a winter stay herein endows Tromsø with a memory that shall endure for eternity. It will!
- Eat: squishy fishy (or Norwegian fermented fish); the rakfisk festival
Renowned chef Gordon Ramsay couldn't quite appreciate it, but as everyone knows, his understanding of fine cuisine is utterly lacking. I'm, of course, referring to rakfisk. Allow me to provide a brief explanation of what Rakfisk truly entails. Put simply, Norwegian rakfisk is fermented trout. The fish is thoroughly salted and arranged in a plastic container, with a blend of salt and sugar sprinkled between each layer of fish. After a few days of refrigeration in an airtight container, the fish becomes pickled. And of course there's a variety of sorts. It carries a scent, well, reminiscent of fish, though nowhere near as potent as the Swedish surströmming. Yet, in Norway, it is held in high esteem as an outright delicacy. Such is its reputation that an annual rakfisk festival is organized each November. Fagernes, a locale with just under 2000 inhabitants, transforms entirely for this occasion. Various stages host an eclectic array of musical acts, a grand market tempts with the finest local treats to savor and purchase, and naturally, one can sample an array of rakfisk variations. There's no doubt that this is a genuine celebration of the people. I attended for the first time last year and was particularly taken by the overall ambiance. The streets were awash with a sea of brightly colored raincoats, for in November, a cloudless sky is far from assured. The scent of wood fires permeates many corners, bestowing a uniquely snug feeling to the affair. A series of vast tents are erected, offering the chance to sample rakfisk from various producers. Naturally, one of the days culminates in the crowning of a victor. And the party continues with music and banter during the evenings. Even if fish isn't entirely your preference, a visit to the festival comes highly recommended. Not only for the splendid atmosphere but also for the rare insight it provides into Norwegian culture and customs. It really is jolly good fun! For accommodation, one location truly stands head and shoulders above the rest. Danebu Kongsgaard - Boutique Hotel. As the name implies, you'll slumber in utmost comfort here. A bed of roses, high up on a ridge not too far away from Fagernes. Do ensure you secure your reservation promptly, for the influx of fish aficionados is substantial. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll come from Oslo. Public transport runs, but not frequent, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you back to Danebu Kongsgaard when you've had your share of fish. Also know that taxi's are very, very occupied during those days. Check here for availability.
- Destination: the best views and scenic drives in Norway; and how to see most of them
In this exposition, I undertake the formidable task of guiding you through the best and most enchanting and majestic views and the most scenic drives in Norway. Having personally seen each one of them, arranging them in any hierarchical order proves an insurmountable challenge, for they each radiate a distinct and splendid in themselves. However, I assure you that subsequent to perusing this discourse, you shall not depart empty-handed. I have stipulated the sole condition that these destinations must be accessible by electric car, excluding those strenuous 5-hour hikes, as I do not know about the physical endurance of my esteemed readers. For the most breathtaking panoramas, the Norwegian Scenic Roads are an imperative. Should you seek an itinerary or a compendium, it is advised to adhere to these routes in structuring the remainder of your sojourn in Norway. The exceptional attribute of these routes lies in their varied character, encompassing rugged coastlines, captivating deep fjords, and picturesque forests alongside lower-lying realms. Scattered along these routes are numerous meticulously marked halts, often conceived by Norwegian architects, offering essential amenities such as lavatories and seating. Without exception, these stops warrant a pause, presenting either a splendid view or a historical landmark. Despite protracted contemplation, I refrain from declaring a definitive preference, yet allow me to share my top 3: Varanger, Rondane, and Aurlandsfjellet. As previously articulated, selecting a favorite proves an almost insurmountable endeavor. Breheimen and its environs have left an indelible imprint on my consciousness. Breheimen, an offshoot of the majestic Jostedalsbreen, once extended through a prolonged valley, now adorned with diminutive birch trees. From the easily accessible visitor center, an awe-inspiring vista unfolds toward the imposing glacier formations. Reveling in a cup of coffee and a quintessential Norwegian waffle with jam, this vista is destined to linger in one's memory. Stegastien, an architecturally remarkable structure, offers a particularly breathtaking panorama overlooking the Aurlandsfjorden. Predominantly constructed of wood, the edifice culminates with a glass panel at its terminus, serving as a vantage point over the abyss. I have encamped in its proximity on several occasions, bearing witness to the sunset casting its brilliance upon this landscape—a veritable spectacle. The journey thereto is equally awe-inspiring, traversing barren high mountains adorned with sporadic snowfields before gradually descending towards Aurlandsfjorden. Exquisite. Snøhetta, a legendary architectural firm renowned on the global stage for prestigious projects, has etched its mark in the Norwegian wilderness. This exquisite pavilion, unveiled in 2011, serves the singular purpose of allowing visitors a tranquil appreciation of the resplendent natural surroundings. While the structure itself is a masterpiece, the surrounding milieu unquestionably steals the limelight. Furthermore, the prospect of encountering a procession of reindeer during the approximately 20-minute walk from the parking area is quite high. Another noteworthy vantage point, of an entirely divergent nature, is the subaqueous locale of restaurant UNDER in Lindesnes. As the nomenclature suggests, this establishment is predominantly submerged. Having dinner here entails relishing a breathtaking view through towering glass walls, affording a captivating insight into the aquatic tableau below. Beyond the unique dining experience, the culinary offerings are of superlative quality. Though I have not personally partaken in the repast (I'm not rich), should you find yourself in Norway, reserving a table well in advance is advised. The coastline of Sørlandet, especially between Grimstad and Risør, stands out as one of the most picturesque and captivating coastal stretches I have ever encountered. Century-old wooden dwellings, weathered fishing vessels, and around each bend, a distinct perspective on a tranquil bay. The small hamlets lining the coastline exude a postcard-perfect charm. I particularly endorse a halt in Brekkestø for a serving of ice cream or cake. Alternatively, traverse the B roads through Grimstad, Lillesand, Arendal, Tvedestrand, and Risør. In conclusion, I wholeheartedly endorse the city of Ålesund in its entirety. The singular allure lies in its proximity to the sea with a bustling harbor, while simultaneously affording a breathtaking view of an Alpine landscape from the city and its surrounding islands. The snow-capped summits at times lend an almost surreal, photoshopped quality to the panorama, yet it is undeniably authentic. On my initial visit, I occasionally found myself pinching to ascertain the reality of what lay before me. Truly unparalleled in the global landscape, this city also boasts a selection of superb hotels, as I wrote about previously. As previously noted, the task of delineating the most extraordinary viewpoints could undoubtedly span 30 pages, given the spectacular nature of the entire country (in my humble opinion). However, presuming time constraints on your part in crafting a meticulous itinerary, I reiterate the earnest recommendation to utilize the Norwegian Scenic Roads as a foundational guide for structuring your journey. Easily accessible by car, boasting impeccable facilities (with lavatories adhering to a stringent cleaning regimen), these routes unequivocally offer the optimum value for your invested time.
- Destination: sleep in a lighthouse and eat on the ocean floor; the south of Norway
As a young boy, we rarely ventured abroad for vacations. There was that one time to northern France, a campsite in Belgium and another time with my grandma to one of the Canary Islands. I believe that's where my fascination with maps began. I would often flip through my atlas, studying all the unique place names, especially those in faraway lands. North Russia, Canada, and of course, Scandinavia, particularly intrigued me. I would daydream about distant places as I traced the Norwegian coastline and imagine all the magnificent places I would come across. And now, I do that in reality. Let me take you on a rather grand recommendation. In its entirety, the south of Norway is a fantastic area to spend a week. However, this recommendation focuses on the region between Kristiansand and Stavanger. I won't describe the entire area because you should experience it for yourself. But I do have a few recommendations for you, places where you absolutely must pull over your car. I've already covered Kristiansand previously, so I suggest you read my article on that or enter "Kristiansand" in the search bar above. We'll move a bit further southwest. First off, the beaches in Mandal. If the weather is lovely and you're a fan of beaches, this is one of the best spots along the entire Norwegian southern coast. There's a large beach, but if you're willing to walk a bit further, you'll find a few smaller coves. It's incredibly beautiful and somewhat reminded me of Ibiza when I first visited. The water is crystal clear, and the adjacent pine forests possess an enchanting kind of magic. I visited years ago with my loved one. That memory has firmly anchored itself in my visual recollections. A bit beyond Mandal lies a remarkable place. Despite people living here since the Iron Age, Lindesnes never truly grew into a place of significant importance. Yet, Lindesnes is now known to a very specific audience. These are architecture enthusiasts and those who adore exceptional seafood. You might have come across it already: restaurant Under. Words genuinely fall short when describing this restaurant. In short, you're dining at the bottom of the sea. From your table, you'll watch the fish swim by. I must honestly admit that, although I've been there once, I've never eaten there. Due to dedicating the last 4 years to traveling to and from the Netherlands for family-related matters, indulgences like these sadly aren't a financial priority. However, as soon as I can, I'll provide an extensive account. Friends were, in any case, extremely enthusiastic about the whole experience. Keep in mind that there are waiting lists. So, if you want to enjoy the most incredible seafood next summer, it's best to make your reservation now. Now that you find yourself back above sea level again, tired and content after numerous courses and good wine, it's time for accommodation. You can sleep in a lighthouse in Lindesnes because the former lighthouse keeper's house is available for rent. It's incredibly romantic to sit by the fireplace as the waves crash against the rocks. If you prefer a bit more luxury and comfort, book a night at Lindesnes Havhotel. Comfy beds, a sea view, and a hot tub for those who love it. The following day, you'll get in your car and head towards the start of the most southern national tourist route that begins in Flekkefjord (put Helleren i Jøssingfjord as a waypoint in your navigation). This tourist route goes from Flekkefjord almost all the way to Stavanger and is characterized by a relatively flat landscape with numerous beaches, beautiful coastlines, and, of course, several points of interest marked with large brown signs. For example, Orrestranda is the country's longest sandy beach and provides a spectacular sight, especially when clouds roll by and the wind picks up. Due to my love for sailing, I get quite excited when the wind blows a bit. During the drive along the Jæren National Tourist Route, there are a few stops you should make that aren't on the map. Starting with Köhler-Paviljongen. It's a beautiful old building steeped in history. Moreover, you can buy the best rhubarb juice in Norway here. As a Dutchman, I'm occasionally jestingly referred to as a 'cheesehead.' I generally don't take offense, partly because it might be true. I do indeed have a fondness for good cheese. And Norway produces a considerable amount of excellent cheese. Hence, my recommendation for a brief stop at the Ystepikene (or cheese girls). It sounds all rather cute, but they take their profession very seriously. In fact, they win awards for their cheese. And you'll witness that firsthand as you look directly into the cheese-making facility from the shop's large window. In this area you will truly find the best of Southern Norway. Undoubtedly, I may incur the ire of many by not enumerating a multitude of other stops along the route that are more than worthy of mention. However, the charm of travelling lies in relinquishing a portion to serendipity. After all, must every hour be meticulously scheduled? **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at either Kristiansand or Stavanger. From there public transport isn't really an option to properly explore or the secluded locations I just suggested. So it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Destination: the best of Norway in a nutshell in Sogndal (all the cliches, but the good ones)
I've just lowered the car window. Phone in hand, I'm using Vipps (a Norwegian mobile payment system) to send NOK 40 to, presumably, the owner of a fruit orchard. A box of ripe plums is for the taking from the little stall, hands down the juiciest and most succulent I've ever held. This vignette captures the essence of the place I'm about to take you in your mind's eye—an encapsulation of Norway's finest. Let me elucidate the reasons behind this claim. The scenario I just described isn't an isolated incident. It's the very tableau that unfolds along the narrow lanes enfolding the fjords. Countless farms adorned with fruit orchards, time-worn boathouses skirting the fjord's edge, and vistas that can only be called breathtaking. Particularly in May, when the fruit blossoms burst forth, the scenery is nothing short of spellbinding. I've experienced it several times during summer, and the magic is undeniably alive then too. We're in the vicinity of Sogndal, nestled on one of the branches of the majestic Sognefjord. Our initial stop is the aptly named Fjordpanorama where you will spend at least two nights. The view here lives up to the billing. From your personal hot tub, with a glass of apple cider in hand, you'll survey the vibrant emerald slopes. Far below, the blue expanse of a Sognefjord offshoot shimmers. Here, one sleeps with curtains ajar for reasons abundantly evident. Whether this locale stands as one of the nation's most spectacular lodgings, I'll leave open for discourse. It's undeniably high on the list. Furthermore, this is a destination worth visiting throughout the year. Personally, I'd opt for spring—a touch of snow still gracing the land, yet the valley teeming with blossoms. Don't tell her yet, but I'm taking my girlfriend here for her birthday next year (and this is a test to see if she actually reads my blogposts). Anyway, moving on! The next day heralds yet another highlight: Urnes Stave Church. Expressing such claims is a challenge, but I'm inclined to label this one of the most imaginatively evocative stave churches. UNESCO concurs. Erected in the 12th and 13th centuries, it stands among the oldest surviving stave churches. A diminutive structure housing a fairytale interior, its woodwork recalls the ancient tales of Norse mythologies. You'll sail there from Sogndal on a petite ferry. While you can bring your car, going on foot is just as convenient. Do check ferry timings beforehand to minimize waiting. Should a wait arise, indulge in a cup of coffee at Urnesgard. This charming terrace, a facet of the farm, serves as both a gathering spot for the fjord's scant inhabitants and a haven for fortuitous tourists in the know. After the return voyage, acquainting oneself with local flavors seems a splendid notion. And, without a doubt, apple cider reigns supreme. Near your abode, Amblegaard beckons. This farm crafts exceptional apple juice and cider. They even arrange tastings, although for groups of eight or more. Who knows, with a bit of charm, they might offer a sip of cider to a solo adventurer. And bring a bottle back to Fjordpanorama. Nothing better then a cold sip while sitting in the bubblebath (I mentioned that before, didn't I?). This region isn't brimming with eateries or lunch spots, but for the famished, Dampskipkaien presents a fine option. Don't expect haute cuisine, but the Skagen sandwich and fish soup are more than satisfactory for the ravenous traveler. Additionally, on a pleasant day, you can bask outside, taking in splendid waterfront views. Should time allow, venture forth to Fjærland. I've penned an exuberant piece about it—do give it a read. Dining is an option there, too, a worthwhile pursuit indeed. Dinner is served at the Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel and is absolutely excellent. I'm smitten with this region, as it packs the best of Norway in a nutshell. And of course, I have not been able to cover everything there is to see and experience on, in, and around the Sognefjord for this deserves a multitude of blogposts, which will start to litter this forum in the not-so-distant future. **Getting there: it is most wise to reserve a car in advance for public transport can make your venture a little complicated. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere in utter calmness. Check here for availability.
- Stay: the landscape is the architecture; one of the best hotels in Norway
I discovered this hotel for the first time due to my interest in architecture. In particular the Jensen & Skodvin architectural firm . The remarkable thing about this place is that it's not primarily about architecture. Just like in photography, it's not about the picture frame. You'll understand my analogy as soon as you look outside from one of the hotel rooms. This hotel serves primarily as a frame for a ever changing exhibition of seasons: a forest so green it almost hurts your eyes, water from the wild-flowing river so blue it seems like dye has been added, and mountain slopes disappearing into the low-hanging clouds, leaving much to the imagination and making this in my opinion one of the best hotels in Norway. Don't forget to visit their sauna as well. The view from there is equally spectacular. For those adventurous and warm-blooded, taking a dip in the icy river is a must. The hotel staff is amazing. They are highly customer-oriented and will ensure you have a great time. The Juvet Landscape Hotel is the epitome of what makes Norway so fantastic: stunning nature, reverence for the elements, and warm hospitality. Even though the prices might be a bit high, once you realize that this is one of the few hotel experiences you'll never forget, it's actually quite reasonable. Due to the hotel's small size, it's important to book early if you want to stay here . I recommend booking at least 3 months in advance to secure the most beautiful bedroom in Norway. I've never been able to manage to book a night with all my spontaneous trips. By the way, the location of this hotel is no coincidence. The road leading to it is breathtaking in both directions. Numerous subtle architectural interventions in the form of countless pedestrian bridges and viewpoints give you plenty of reason to pull over every half hour. Take the Gudbrandsjuvet cafe , for example. The coffee here is outrageously expensive, so you might as well skip that, but treat yourself to the magnificent structure that offers an impressive view of the raging river cascading down in multiple waterfalls. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Ålesund Airport (AES). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability!
- Hike: the hidden charms of Setesdal and the southern most reindeer herd in Norway
Delving into the annals of Norwegian history often reveals a tapestry lying just beneath the surface. In this instance, I am specifically alluding to a history where distinct regions remained markedly isolated from each other. Whether due to geographical barriers, considerable distances, or a combination of both, the result birthed unique identities within many valleys and secluded locales. This distinctiveness is notably preserved in dialects to this day. Although I've grown fairly proficient in Norwegian, I confess that when I sometimes venture into new territories, about 15% of the words remain an enigma. Setesdal in Norway stands as one such region, boasting an entirely distinctive character. Stretching from the wooded haven of Evje to the winter wonderland of Hovden, this elongated valley is nestled between two mountain plateaus: Setesdal Vesthei and Setesdal Østhei. It exudes a sense of fascination with its ensemble of small villages predominantly centered around agriculture and forestry. Tradition weaves itself deeply into the fabric of this land. Notably deviating from the norm, the variations in Norwegian folk attire (Bunad) here are among the most exquisite. Additionally, the music that emanates from this realm bears an unparalleled uniqueness. The idea of dedicating an entire blog post to this realm feels tantalizingly justified. Perhaps that endeavor shall come to fruition in due time. My inaugural encounter with Setesdal occurred in 2016. Chosen primarily for its proximity to Kristiansand and its accessibility, it served as the perfect backdrop for a small weekend expedition, complete with numerous peaks surpassing the 1000-meter mark. The treeline sits approximately between 600 and 800 meters, thus etching the number 1000 in my mind as a symbol of the awe-inspiring mountainous panoramas that await. Allow me to introduce you to a particular trail that I hold dear within Setesdal. This trail beckons to both travelers with and without an automobile. Upon journeying through the valley, you'll eventually arrive at a place called Valle (Harstadberg bus stop). Here, a narrow bridge spans the gap. Just beyond this bridge, a sinuous mountain road takes you through eight sharp hairpin bends, leading to a parking area. If you're arriving by car, this is your designated haven. A bit further along the route, however, a small fee is levied for the maintenance of the road, as it falls under private care. So you can drive in a little further if you please, once the fee is paid. The inception of the hiking trail commences at the bend of the aforementioned gravel road. In the event of recent rain, anticipate a slightly muddy and damp initiation. The trail is well-maintained, sporting intermittent wooden planks to aid in keeping your feet dry. Yet, I must stress the imperative of stout hiking boots, impervious to immediate soaking even in the face of the first puddle. If you're in the market for hiking footwear, do take a quick three-minute read of my piece detailing my cherished hiking boots I bought a few years ago. The initial stage ascends steadily, weaving through a low birch forest. Particularly during early autumn (from August to late September), the scenery transforms into a spectacle of unparalleled beauty. Midway through, a modest climb presents itself, offering terrain slightly steeper in incline. Even for those less accustomed to hiking, this ascent poses no significant challenge. Beyond this ascent, you'll walk alongside a lengthy lake, experiencing, for the first time, a profound connection with the mesmerizing mountain landscape. On either side, mountain ridges soar to heights surpassing 1000 meters. During my initial visit, a veil of mist hung in the air, imparting an almost intimidating aura. The journey from the gravel road to the first resting point takes around 2.5 hours. Here, a small cabin stands, originally built in 1920 as temporary shelter for local shepherds. Today, it's managed by the Norwegian Tourist Association, offering overnight accommodations when necessary. I once found myself stranded there overnight due to an intense storm. The cacophony of wind battering everything in its path meant sleep eluded me that night. Still, it remains a remarkable experience in hindsight. Embarking from Stavskar, a three-hour trek leads to Bossbu. This recently refurbished trekker's hut, also overseen by DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association), is reached via a journey that leaves one breathless. Especially upon reaching the apex from Stavskar, gazing out across the highlands, the landscape unfolds in breathtaking fashion. Sparkling lakes and rivers catch the sunlight, while in the distance, a majestic mountain ridge with snow-clad sections beckons. I've mentioned it earlier, but it's worth reiterating that this is among the most southern mountainous regions of the country. My last visit likely took place in autumn, probably around the beginning of October. A touch of frost had already graced the land, and daytime temperatures hovered around 4 degrees Celsius. The highest peaks of the mountains had already embraced a blanket of snow. That day marked my introduction to a herd of reindeer. It took a while for me to spot them, their gray-white coats blending almost seamlessly with the partially frozen mountains behind them. The sight left me utterly elated. It was a late afternoon, the sun had descended considerably, and the cold air tingled in my nose. Immense rocks cast long shadows, creating a scene too beautiful to be real. A few pointers to bear in mind before embarking on your journey: Study the map meticulously, and do not underestimate time constraints. What might take me, a seasoned hiker, five hours could easily demand a few additional hours from you. The website ut.no offers a comprehensive guide to all marked hiking trails the country boasts. Electricity is scarce (or virtually absent). Thus, packing a power bank is a necessity. While certain huts might feature solar panels allowing for half an hour of charging, it's wise not to rely on this as a primary source. If you're venturing alone, make sure someone is aware of your plans. Share your destination and estimated duration, enhancing your traceability in the event of an unforeseen mishap. Err on the side of excess rather than scarcity when packing provisions. Ensure they are securely packaged, using dry bags, a concept I previously discussed. Water is plentiful along the way. Do make sure to tap from fast running water, preferrably above the treeline. One principle prevalent in Norwegian outdoor pursuits is, 'There is no shame in turning back.' This implies that when weariness sets in or the weather abruptly shifts, persevering at all costs is not the main goal. Your personal safety is the most important thing to take care of. When utilizing DNT huts, acquaint yourself thoroughly with the specific hut's protocols. Reservation requirements or the ongoing hunting season (September-October) might necessitate extra preparation. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive from Kristiansand. There are busses driving through the valley, but they do not run very frequently. Thus it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.
- Eat: a goat in a world of sheep; the best restaurant in Oslo
I am talking about head chef Axel Nordahl and his talented team of culinary wizards. Their restaurant takes its name from the street it occupies, affectionately known as 'Goat Marsh Street'. This is not any ordinary eatery; it's Oslo's finest culinary gem, standing out from the rest. Or as I put it in my title: a goat in a world of sheep. Ok, I said it. But there's more to unveil! You could read numerous newspaper articles to get a taste of their culinary prowess, but those accounts only give you a glimpse until you've truly savoured their gastronomic creations. So, instead of delving into the intricacies of their dishes or flavours, let me explain why this restaurant captures the essence of Norwegian dining (and maybe even the Norwegian spirit, if there is one). It all starts with its unassuming location and understated charm. Nestled away from the city's hustle and bustle, it finds its place in a tranquil and captivating residential area. (If my memory serves me right, I believe the chef comes from these very surroundings.) There are no flashy signs of "food," "restaurant," or "luxury." If the blinds were drawn, you might even miss it altogether. The interior design perfectly complements the exterior—nothing too showy or flamboyant, just tastefully refined. The tables display exquisite craftsmanship, as do the striking artworks. Exposed concrete takes the spotlight, in its natural state, untouched. But beyond all these elements, it becomes evident that this establishment revolves around culinary artistry and its devoted chefs. I guess that's why they've opted for a spacious open kitchen. In addition to their meticulous work, there's a sense of joy behind the counter. Laughter fills the air, lighthearted banter livens up interactions with guests, and an unwavering enthusiasm permeates the dining experience and the moments between the twelve courses. The staff, for the most part, share a camaraderie akin to friends enjoying good company. The speakers gently whisper the sounds of Metallica's "Enter Sandman" and 2Pac joined in on the stage too, bringing a broad smile to my face. Not because I'm a die-hard Metallica fan, but because they do things their own way, and they do it very well. I understand it might seem a bit unlikely, but I stand by my belief that this place embodies the spirit of Norway. At first glance, it may seem unassuming and introverted, but once you step inside, you'll discover a world brimming with creativity, delight, and attentive service. If you're planning a trip to Oslo and want to experience this culinary gem, I strongly recommend securing your reservation well in advance. The locals are well aware of Geita's charm, and the evenings tend to sell out consistantly, especially after I dared to call Geita the best restaurant in Oslo. And if you were to visit Oslo for a few days, don't hesitate to let yourself be tempted to a few more great restaurants.
- Eat: on an island; the cutest restaurant in Tvedestrand
Tvedestrand is a tiny yet enchanting gem for various reasons, and a restaurant being one of them. The centuries old coastal town nestles snugly in one of the thousands of inlets along Norway's southern coast. It's delightful to take a leisurely stroll around the village itself, but my recommendation lies beyond the mainland. In July, you can hop aboard the "badebåt" (swim boat) and set sail for Furøya. Furøya is a petite island nestled in the heart of the Tvedestrand fjord. Firstly, the island itself is incredibly picturesque, adorned with exquisite old cottages, grazing goats and sheep, and numerous swimming spots. Moreover, it hosts an insanely cozy restaurant where regular concerts during the summer are held, adding to its magical allure and creating an unforgettable experience. I visited a few years ago and was utterly captivated by the whole atmosphere there. It was a sun-drenched summer day, and me and a gang of friends enjoyed a delightful meal at the Furøya restaurant. The goats casually wandering around the restaurant often sparked moments of hilarity. If you fancy an extended stay, you can even spend the night there. Check out the options on the DNT website. Furøya is a well-kept secret, known only to the locals, adding to its charm and exclusivity. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive either at Kristiansand Airport (KRS) or from Oslo (OSL). Public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.