In November of last year (2022 that was, in case you're reading this in 2034), I was about to start a new job. I still had around 7 unused vacation days left from my previous employer, which I was forced to take out before leaving in December. However, it was November, and I live in Norway. That means it gets quite dark early, and there might already be snow in many of the more mountainous areas. It's like an in-between month—not quite autumn, not quite winter. Secretly, I really wanted to spend some time outdoors. I started checking the snow depths and, to my surprise, found that in an area I know well (Hemsedal and Valdres), there was hardly any snow, at least not below 1000 meters. I decided that this would be my plan. I started planning my route and, more importantly, gathering everything I thought I would need. Without going into detail, here's a brief list: a sleeping bag comfortable down to -10°C (which is really chunky), a tiny light-weight tent, a hammock, a tarp, extra shoes, 6 days' worth of food, a sleeping pad, an axe, a saw, and enough dry clothes. As you can imagine, the amount of stuff started piling up. The thing with these types of trips is that depending on the season and the duration of your trip, the size of your backpack can vary greatly. In November, for instance, I need more volume due to the need for warm and extra dry clothing. I also bring a thicker sleeping bag (I have two). Additionally, you require more energy to stay warm, so you need to carry more food because you simply burn more calories. Moreover, I need equipment for making a fire, and so on. In the summer, you can get by with fewer clothes, and in many cases, making a fire is prohibited. Anyway, you get the idea. I'm not sure if it's a hard and set-in-stone rule, but I've noticed that for hikes longer than 5 days, I need about 10 extra liters of baggage space. So, that's important to consider when choosing a new backpack. You take into account whether you'll be going out only in the summer and how many nights you expect to spend outdoors. That's how you decide on the size of your backpack. Since I'm one of those idiots who prefer spending longer periods in the outdoors, I bought the largest one: 70 liters. It sounds big, but believe me, it fills up really rather quickly. I have one from Osprey. Those backpacks are simply the most comfortable I have ever had on my back. I especially like how the hip belt feels, and you hardly feel like you're carrying 35kg on your back. As for its appearance, I couldn't care less. It just needs to be comfortable and practical. But if you're planning to go on some long hikes here in Norway, I highly recommend packing a backpack instead of a suitcase. It provides so much more flexibility. Besides, it's often much more expensive to buy one here in Norway than online, so it's better to get it beforehand and test-pack for your trip. I'm not a brand ambassador or anything, I just genuinely prefer Osprey. They're just so comfy on spots where it would otherwise start to hurt after a few days of hiking. What I can really recommend before you head out, is Now, let me tell you how my trip went. Well, it was pretty cold in the beginning with temperatures dropping to around -10°C at night. I started from Hemsedal and ventured into the mountains towards Tisleifjorden. It was amazing; I encountered a massive herd of wild reindeer that initially paid little attention to me. It was truly awe-inspiring to see and I think I spent almost an hour just observing them. I also came across quite a few 'ryper' (I think that's a type of grouse in English). They turn white in winter to protect themselves from predators. It was 6 fantastic but quite demanding days. Eventually, my Hanwag boots didn't really stay dry anymore, and I ended up with some nasty blisters that got some rest when I reached one of the DNT cabins on the last day. But it was unbelievably magical. I hope you get to experience something like that during your stay too.

Envision this scene: You stand amidst the aisles of a supermarket, facing an array of jam jars, each flaunting an assortment of around thirty diverse flavours, leaving you in a state of indecision. A predicament indeed, particularly when one considers that jam is merely the first item on a list of forty-five other items on your shoppinglist. Yet, in the best bar in Tromsø, Agenturet, such conundrums cease to exist. The sole decision demanding your attention is the choice between left and right. On the left, you'll find the wine bar; on the right, the beer bar. Moreover, these two domains elegantly intertwine in the rear of the establisment. Should you regret your choice for left or right, well, reconsider whilst being inside and simply swap sides. Don't be intimidated by the word 'winebar'. Should you not be an adept connoisseur of Chiantis and Pinots, worry not. Merely convey your favoured flavours, and you shall be presented with a direct hit to your preferred palate. The same principle extends to the realm of beer. I count myself as equally enamoured of beer as I am of wine. As long as a flavour intrigues, bewilders in the most delightful manner, and ultimately gratifies, I stand content. Truly, whether a bottle costs 5 (dollars, pounds or euro's) or 50 bears little significance. Let alone indulging in obsceen displays of my refined tastes. My joy lies in the realm of surprise. No mattter what the price. The revelation arrived through a beer on the 'beer side' of the establishment. Paradoxically, after my prior proclamation against flaunting expensive tastes, I can unabashedly declare this the most expensive beer I've ever paid money for. However, the cost isn't the focal point; rather, it's the fact that it happened to be the last available of the 'Neon Raptor Carrot and Walnut Cake Pastry Stout'. Yes, you read that correctly. This particular brew was emphatically recommended to me by a fellow beer enthusiast, who, incidentally, also happened to worked at Agenturet. Stout, a type of dark beer, frequently exudes a sweet undertone. Nonetheless, never before had I encountered a Stout that evoked thoughts of carrot cake. Remarkably delectable and worthy of every penny spent. The stewardship of this establishment by beer aficionados, harbouring a distinct preference for obscure, independent, and diminutive breweries, scarcely surprises. The gentlemen tending to the bar narrate their recommendations with an enthusiasm as if it were their first day on the job. Curiously, this enthusiasm proves most inspiring. Beyond the realms of fine dining establishments, such fervour is a rarity in the hospitality sector (altough the word 'hospitality' clearly suggests the opposite). Hence, Agenturet emerges as a resounding recommendation for anyone paying Tromsø a visit. As the title implies, the atmosphere within is profoundly convivial; the coziest bar in the Arctic if it was up to me. An ambiance akin to that of a comfortable living room pervades the space. One table accommodates a group of six students engrossed in a game of Besserwisser, while a slightly older Italian couple finds it nearly impossible to conceal their subtle smiles. The majority of the clientele is comprised of local Tromsø'ers (if they can even be called that). It's truly one of those locales that one is loath to depart, a place that indubitably contributes to the indelible memory of Tromsø. Such establishments deserve far more credit then they usually do. Equally contributory to an enchanting stay is one's lodging. Pertaining to Tromsø, I present two recommendations for surprising reasons: light, or rather, the absence of it. In the summertime, darkness is an anomaly in Tromsø. To ensure and undisturbed night of sleep, thick curtains and effective sound insulation, adept at quelling the incessant squawks of seagulls, are indispensable. In this regard, the Skaret Studios excel. Permit me to assert, as a former interior designer (yes, I was that in a not so distant past), that these petite studio's are splendidly designed and decorated with both warmth and elegance. Another rationale for my endorsement lies in the autonomy they supply. Equipped with a tiny kitchen, one can either consider to shop for breakfast, or to explore local eateries. This variability lends charm, diverging from the standardized hotel breakfasts. And, there's simply just too many great bakeries in Tromsø to leave unattended. The second recommendation finds relevance during the dark months in the north, particularly when one can marvel at the Northern Lights in Tromsø. During such instances, impeding one's view with curtains is a bad idea. Rather, one craves candlelit ambience, a sumptuous bed with an expansive view of the nocturnal heavens. Should the need arise to rouse from slumber in the dead of night, there is a big chance one awakens to the splendid undulating emerald northern light curtains straight overhead. For this scenario, I advocate selecting the Aera Panorama Lodge. Analogous to the visit to Agenturet, a winter stay herein endows Tromsø with a memory that shall endure for eternity. It will!

Renowned chef Gordon Ramsay couldn't quite appreciate it, but as everyone knows, his understanding of fine cuisine is utterly lacking. I'm, of course, referring to rakfisk. Allow me to provide a brief explanation of what Rakfisk truly entails. Put simply, Norwegian rakfisk is fermented trout. The fish is thoroughly salted and arranged in a plastic container, with a blend of salt and sugar sprinkled between each layer of fish. After a few days of refrigeration in an airtight container, the fish becomes pickled. And of course there's a variety of sorts. It carries a scent, well, reminiscent of fish, though nowhere near as potent as the Swedish surströmming. Yet, in Norway, it is held in high esteem as an outright delicacy. Such is its reputation that an annual rakfisk festival is organized each November. Fagernes, a locale with just under 2000 inhabitants, transforms entirely for this occasion. Various stages host an eclectic array of musical acts, a grand market tempts with the finest local treats to savor and purchase, and naturally, one can sample an array of rakfisk variations. There's no doubt that this is a genuine celebration of the people. I attended for the first time last year and was particularly taken by the overall ambiance. The streets were awash with a sea of brightly colored raincoats, for in November, a cloudless sky is far from assured. The scent of wood fires permeates many corners, bestowing a uniquely snug feeling to the affair. A series of vast tents are erected, offering the chance to sample rakfisk from various producers. Naturally, one of the days culminates in the crowning of a victor. And the party continues with music and banter during the evenings. Even if fish isn't entirely your preference, a visit to the festival comes highly recommended. Not only for the splendid atmosphere but also for the rare insight it provides into Norwegian culture and customs. It really is jolly good fun! For accommodation, one location truly stands head and shoulders above the rest. Danebu Kongsgaard - Boutique Hotel. As the name implies, you'll slumber in utmost comfort here. A bed of roses, high up on a ridge not too far away from Fagernes. Do ensure you secure your reservation promptly, for the influx of fish aficionados is substantial. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll come from Oslo. Public transport runs, but not frequent, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you back to Danebu Kongsgaard when you've had your share of fish. Also know that taxi's are very, very occupied during those days. Check here for availability.

In this exposition, I undertake the formidable task of guiding you through the best and most enchanting and majestic views and the most scenic drives in Norway. Having personally seen each one of them, arranging them in any hierarchical order proves an insurmountable challenge, for they each radiate a distinct and splendid in themselves. However, I assure you that subsequent to perusing this discourse, you shall not depart empty-handed. I have stipulated the sole condition that these destinations must be accessible by electric car, excluding those strenuous 5-hour hikes, as I do not know about the physical endurance of my esteemed readers. For the most breathtaking panoramas, the Norwegian Scenic Roads are an imperative. Should you seek an itinerary or a compendium, it is advised to adhere to these routes in structuring the remainder of your sojourn in Norway. The exceptional attribute of these routes lies in their varied character, encompassing rugged coastlines, captivating deep fjords, and picturesque forests alongside lower-lying realms. Scattered along these routes are numerous meticulously marked halts, often conceived by Norwegian architects, offering essential amenities such as lavatories and seating. Without exception, these stops warrant a pause, presenting either a splendid view or a historical landmark. Despite protracted contemplation, I refrain from declaring a definitive preference, yet allow me to share my top 3: Varanger, Rondane, and Aurlandsfjellet. As previously articulated, selecting a favorite proves an almost insurmountable endeavor. Breheimen and its environs have left an indelible imprint on my consciousness. Breheimen, an offshoot of the majestic Jostedalsbreen, once extended through a prolonged valley, now adorned with diminutive birch trees. From the easily accessible visitor center, an awe-inspiring vista unfolds toward the imposing glacier formations. Reveling in a cup of coffee and a quintessential Norwegian waffle with jam, this vista is destined to linger in one's memory. Stegastien, an architecturally remarkable structure, offers a particularly breathtaking panorama overlooking the Aurlandsfjorden. Predominantly constructed of wood, the edifice culminates with a glass panel at its terminus, serving as a vantage point over the abyss. I have encamped in its proximity on several occasions, bearing witness to the sunset casting its brilliance upon this landscape—a veritable spectacle. The journey thereto is equally awe-inspiring, traversing barren high mountains adorned with sporadic snowfields before gradually descending towards Aurlandsfjorden. Exquisite. Snøhetta, a legendary architectural firm renowned on the global stage for prestigious projects, has etched its mark in the Norwegian wilderness. This exquisite pavilion, unveiled in 2011, serves the singular purpose of allowing visitors a tranquil appreciation of the resplendent natural surroundings. While the structure itself is a masterpiece, the surrounding milieu unquestionably steals the limelight. Furthermore, the prospect of encountering a procession of reindeer during the approximately 20-minute walk from the parking area is quite high. Another noteworthy vantage point, of an entirely divergent nature, is the subaqueous locale of restaurant UNDER in Lindesnes. As the nomenclature suggests, this establishment is predominantly submerged. Having dinner here entails relishing a breathtaking view through towering glass walls, affording a captivating insight into the aquatic tableau below. Beyond the unique dining experience, the culinary offerings are of superlative quality. Though I have not personally partaken in the repast (I'm not rich), should you find yourself in Norway, reserving a table well in advance is advised. The coastline of Sørlandet, especially between Grimstad and Risør, stands out as one of the most picturesque and captivating coastal stretches I have ever encountered. Century-old wooden dwellings, weathered fishing vessels, and around each bend, a distinct perspective on a tranquil bay. The small hamlets lining the coastline exude a postcard-perfect charm. I particularly endorse a halt in Brekkestø for a serving of ice cream or cake. Alternatively, traverse the B roads through Grimstad, Lillesand, Arendal, Tvedestrand, and Risør. In conclusion, I wholeheartedly endorse the city of Ålesund in its entirety. The singular allure lies in its proximity to the sea with a bustling harbor, while simultaneously affording a breathtaking view of an Alpine landscape from the city and its surrounding islands. The snow-capped summits at times lend an almost surreal, photoshopped quality to the panorama, yet it is undeniably authentic. On my initial visit, I occasionally found myself pinching to ascertain the reality of what lay before me. Truly unparalleled in the global landscape, this city also boasts a selection of superb hotels, as I wrote about previously. As previously noted, the task of delineating the most extraordinary viewpoints could undoubtedly span 30 pages, given the spectacular nature of the entire country (in my humble opinion). However, presuming time constraints on your part in crafting a meticulous itinerary, I reiterate the earnest recommendation to utilize the Norwegian Scenic Roads as a foundational guide for structuring your journey. Easily accessible by car, boasting impeccable facilities (with lavatories adhering to a stringent cleaning regimen), these routes unequivocally offer the optimum value for your invested time.

As a young boy, we rarely ventured abroad for vacations. There was that one time to northern France, a campsite in Belgium and another time with my grandma to one of the Canary Islands. I believe that's where my fascination with maps began. I would often flip through my atlas, studying all the unique place names, especially those in faraway lands. North Russia, Canada, and of course, Scandinavia, particularly intrigued me. I would daydream about distant places as I traced the Norwegian coastline and imagine all the magnificent places I would come across. And now, I do that in reality. Let me take you on a rather grand recommendation. In its entirety, the south of Norway is a fantastic area to spend a week. However, this recommendation focuses on the region between Kristiansand and Stavanger. I won't describe the entire area because you should experience it for yourself. But I do have a few recommendations for you, places where you absolutely must pull over your car. I've already covered Kristiansand previously, so I suggest you read my article on that or enter "Kristiansand" in the search bar above. We'll move a bit further southwest. First off, the beaches in Mandal. If the weather is lovely and you're a fan of beaches, this is one of the best spots along the entire Norwegian southern coast. There's a large beach, but if you're willing to walk a bit further, you'll find a few smaller coves. It's incredibly beautiful and somewhat reminded me of Ibiza when I first visited. The water is crystal clear, and the adjacent pine forests possess an enchanting kind of magic. I visited years ago with my loved one. That memory has firmly anchored itself in my visual recollections. A bit beyond Mandal lies a remarkable place. Despite people living here since the Iron Age, Lindesnes never truly grew into a place of significant importance. Yet, Lindesnes is now known to a very specific audience. These are architecture enthusiasts and those who adore exceptional seafood. You might have come across it already: restaurant Under. Words genuinely fall short when describing this restaurant. In short, you're dining at the bottom of the sea. From your table, you'll watch the fish swim by. I must honestly admit that, although I've been there once, I've never eaten there. Due to dedicating the last 4 years to traveling to and from the Netherlands for family-related matters, indulgences like these sadly aren't a financial priority. However, as soon as I can, I'll provide an extensive account. Friends were, in any case, extremely enthusiastic about the whole experience. Keep in mind that there are waiting lists. So, if you want to enjoy the most incredible seafood next summer, it's best to make your reservation now. Now that you find yourself back above sea level again, tired and content after numerous courses and good wine, it's time for accommodation. You can sleep in a lighthouse in Lindesnes because the former lighthouse keeper's house is available for rent. It's incredibly romantic to sit by the fireplace as the waves crash against the rocks. If you prefer a bit more luxury and comfort, book a night at Lindesnes Havhotel. Comfy beds, a sea view, and a hot tub for those who love it. The following day, you'll get in your car and head towards the start of the most southern national tourist route that begins in Flekkefjord (put Helleren i Jøssingfjord as a waypoint in your navigation). This tourist route goes from Flekkefjord almost all the way to Stavanger and is characterized by a relatively flat landscape with numerous beaches, beautiful coastlines, and, of course, several points of interest marked with large brown signs. For example, Orrestranda is the country's longest sandy beach and provides a spectacular sight, especially when clouds roll by and the wind picks up. Due to my love for sailing, I get quite excited when the wind blows a bit. During the drive along the Jæren National Tourist Route, there are a few stops you should make that aren't on the map. Starting with Köhler-Paviljongen. It's a beautiful old building steeped in history. Moreover, you can buy the best rhubarb juice in Norway here. As a Dutchman, I'm occasionally jestingly referred to as a 'cheesehead.' I generally don't take offense, partly because it might be true. I do indeed have a fondness for good cheese. And Norway produces a considerable amount of excellent cheese. Hence, my recommendation for a brief stop at the Ystepikene (or cheese girls). It sounds all rather cute, but they take their profession very seriously. In fact, they win awards for their cheese. And you'll witness that firsthand as you look directly into the cheese-making facility from the shop's large window. In this area you will truly find the best of Southern Norway. Undoubtedly, I may incur the ire of many by not enumerating a multitude of other stops along the route that are more than worthy of mention. However, the charm of travelling lies in relinquishing a portion to serendipity. After all, must every hour be meticulously scheduled? **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at either Kristiansand or Stavanger. From there public transport isn't really an option to properly explore or the secluded locations I just suggested. So it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

I've just lowered the car window. Phone in hand, I'm using Vipps (a Norwegian mobile payment system) to send NOK 40 to, presumably, the owner of a fruit orchard. A box of ripe plums is for the taking from the little stall, hands down the juiciest and most succulent I've ever held. This vignette captures the essence of the place I'm about to take you in your mind's eye—an encapsulation of Norway's finest. Let me elucidate the reasons behind this claim. The scenario I just described isn't an isolated incident. It's the very tableau that unfolds along the narrow lanes enfolding the fjords. Countless farms adorned with fruit orchards, time-worn boathouses skirting the fjord's edge, and vistas that can only be called breathtaking. Particularly in May, when the fruit blossoms burst forth, the scenery is nothing short of spellbinding. I've experienced it several times during summer, and the magic is undeniably alive then too. We're in the vicinity of Sogndal, nestled on one of the branches of the majestic Sognefjord. Our initial stop is the aptly named Fjordpanorama where you will spend at least two nights. The view here lives up to the billing. From your personal hot tub, with a glass of apple cider in hand, you'll survey the vibrant emerald slopes. Far below, the blue expanse of a Sognefjord offshoot shimmers. Here, one sleeps with curtains ajar for reasons abundantly evident. Whether this locale stands as one of the nation's most spectacular lodgings, I'll leave open for discourse. It's undeniably high on the list. Furthermore, this is a destination worth visiting throughout the year. Personally, I'd opt for spring—a touch of snow still gracing the land, yet the valley teeming with blossoms. Don't tell her yet, but I'm taking my girlfriend here for her birthday next year (and this is a test to see if she actually reads my blogposts). Anyway, moving on! The next day heralds yet another highlight: Urnes Stave Church. Expressing such claims is a challenge, but I'm inclined to label this one of the most imaginatively evocative stave churches. UNESCO concurs. Erected in the 12th and 13th centuries, it stands among the oldest surviving stave churches. A diminutive structure housing a fairytale interior, its woodwork recalls the ancient tales of Norse mythologies. You'll sail there from Sogndal on a petite ferry. While you can bring your car, going on foot is just as convenient. Do check ferry timings beforehand to minimize waiting. Should a wait arise, indulge in a cup of coffee at Urnesgard. This charming terrace, a facet of the farm, serves as both a gathering spot for the fjord's scant inhabitants and a haven for fortuitous tourists in the know. After the return voyage, acquainting oneself with local flavors seems a splendid notion. And, without a doubt, apple cider reigns supreme. Near your abode, Amblegaard beckons. This farm crafts exceptional apple juice and cider. They even arrange tastings, although for groups of eight or more. Who knows, with a bit of charm, they might offer a sip of cider to a solo adventurer. And bring a bottle back to Fjordpanorama. Nothing better then a cold sip while sitting in the bubblebath (I mentioned that before, didn't I?). This region isn't brimming with eateries or lunch spots, but for the famished, Dampskipkaien presents a fine option. Don't expect haute cuisine, but the Skagen sandwich and fish soup are more than satisfactory for the ravenous traveler. Additionally, on a pleasant day, you can bask outside, taking in splendid waterfront views. Should time allow, venture forth to Fjærland. I've penned an exuberant piece about it—do give it a read. Dining is an option there, too, a worthwhile pursuit indeed. Dinner is served at the Fjærland Fjordstove Hotel and is absolutely excellent. I'm smitten with this region, as it packs the best of Norway in a nutshell. And of course, I have not been able to cover everything there is to see and experience on, in, and around the Sognefjord for this deserves a multitude of blogposts, which will start to litter this forum in the not-so-distant future. **Getting there: it is most wise to reserve a car in advance for public transport can make your venture a little complicated. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere in utter calmness. Check here for availability.

I discovered this hotel for the first time due to my interest in architecture. In particular the Jensen & Skodvin architectural firm . The remarkable thing about this place is that it's not primarily about architecture. Just like in photography, it's not about the picture frame. You'll understand my analogy as soon as you look outside from one of the hotel rooms. This hotel serves primarily as a frame for a ever changing exhibition of seasons: a forest so green it almost hurts your eyes, water from the wild-flowing river so blue it seems like dye has been added, and mountain slopes disappearing into the low-hanging clouds, leaving much to the imagination and making this in my opinion one of the best hotels in Norway. Don't forget to visit their sauna as well. The view from there is equally spectacular. For those adventurous and warm-blooded, taking a dip in the icy river is a must. The hotel staff is amazing. They are highly customer-oriented and will ensure you have a great time. The Juvet Landscape Hotel is the epitome of what makes Norway so fantastic: stunning nature, reverence for the elements, and warm hospitality. Even though the prices might be a bit high, once you realize that this is one of the few hotel experiences you'll never forget, it's actually quite reasonable. Due to the hotel's small size, it's important to book early if you want to stay here . I recommend booking at least 3 months in advance to secure the most beautiful bedroom in Norway. I've never been able to manage to book a night with all my spontaneous trips. By the way, the location of this hotel is no coincidence. The road leading to it is breathtaking in both directions. Numerous subtle architectural interventions in the form of countless pedestrian bridges and viewpoints give you plenty of reason to pull over every half hour. Take the Gudbrandsjuvet cafe , for example. The coffee here is outrageously expensive, so you might as well skip that, but treat yourself to the magnificent structure that offers an impressive view of the raging river cascading down in multiple waterfalls. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Ålesund Airport (AES). From there public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability!

Delving into the annals of Norwegian history often reveals a tapestry lying just beneath the surface. In this instance, I am specifically alluding to a history where distinct regions remained markedly isolated from each other. Whether due to geographical barriers, considerable distances, or a combination of both, the result birthed unique identities within many valleys and secluded locales. This distinctiveness is notably preserved in dialects to this day. Although I've grown fairly proficient in Norwegian, I confess that when I sometimes venture into new territories, about 15% of the words remain an enigma. Setesdal in Norway stands as one such region, boasting an entirely distinctive character. Stretching from the wooded haven of Evje to the winter wonderland of Hovden, this elongated valley is nestled between two mountain plateaus: Setesdal Vesthei and Setesdal Østhei. It exudes a sense of fascination with its ensemble of small villages predominantly centered around agriculture and forestry. Tradition weaves itself deeply into the fabric of this land. Notably deviating from the norm, the variations in Norwegian folk attire (Bunad) here are among the most exquisite. Additionally, the music that emanates from this realm bears an unparalleled uniqueness. The idea of dedicating an entire blog post to this realm feels tantalizingly justified. Perhaps that endeavor shall come to fruition in due time. My inaugural encounter with Setesdal occurred in 2016. Chosen primarily for its proximity to Kristiansand and its accessibility, it served as the perfect backdrop for a small weekend expedition, complete with numerous peaks surpassing the 1000-meter mark. The treeline sits approximately between 600 and 800 meters, thus etching the number 1000 in my mind as a symbol of the awe-inspiring mountainous panoramas that await. Allow me to introduce you to a particular trail that I hold dear within Setesdal. This trail beckons to both travelers with and without an automobile. Upon journeying through the valley, you'll eventually arrive at a place called Valle (Harstadberg bus stop). Here, a narrow bridge spans the gap. Just beyond this bridge, a sinuous mountain road takes you through eight sharp hairpin bends, leading to a parking area. If you're arriving by car, this is your designated haven. A bit further along the route, however, a small fee is levied for the maintenance of the road, as it falls under private care. So you can drive in a little further if you please, once the fee is paid. The inception of the hiking trail commences at the bend of the aforementioned gravel road. In the event of recent rain, anticipate a slightly muddy and damp initiation. The trail is well-maintained, sporting intermittent wooden planks to aid in keeping your feet dry. Yet, I must stress the imperative of stout hiking boots, impervious to immediate soaking even in the face of the first puddle. If you're in the market for hiking footwear, do take a quick three-minute read of my piece detailing my cherished hiking boots I bought a few years ago. The initial stage ascends steadily, weaving through a low birch forest. Particularly during early autumn (from August to late September), the scenery transforms into a spectacle of unparalleled beauty. Midway through, a modest climb presents itself, offering terrain slightly steeper in incline. Even for those less accustomed to hiking, this ascent poses no significant challenge. Beyond this ascent, you'll walk alongside a lengthy lake, experiencing, for the first time, a profound connection with the mesmerizing mountain landscape. On either side, mountain ridges soar to heights surpassing 1000 meters. During my initial visit, a veil of mist hung in the air, imparting an almost intimidating aura. The journey from the gravel road to the first resting point takes around 2.5 hours. Here, a small cabin stands, originally built in 1920 as temporary shelter for local shepherds. Today, it's managed by the Norwegian Tourist Association, offering overnight accommodations when necessary. I once found myself stranded there overnight due to an intense storm. The cacophony of wind battering everything in its path meant sleep eluded me that night. Still, it remains a remarkable experience in hindsight. Embarking from Stavskar, a three-hour trek leads to Bossbu. This recently refurbished trekker's hut, also overseen by DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association), is reached via a journey that leaves one breathless. Especially upon reaching the apex from Stavskar, gazing out across the highlands, the landscape unfolds in breathtaking fashion. Sparkling lakes and rivers catch the sunlight, while in the distance, a majestic mountain ridge with snow-clad sections beckons. I've mentioned it earlier, but it's worth reiterating that this is among the most southern mountainous regions of the country. My last visit likely took place in autumn, probably around the beginning of October. A touch of frost had already graced the land, and daytime temperatures hovered around 4 degrees Celsius. The highest peaks of the mountains had already embraced a blanket of snow. That day marked my introduction to a herd of reindeer. It took a while for me to spot them, their gray-white coats blending almost seamlessly with the partially frozen mountains behind them. The sight left me utterly elated. It was a late afternoon, the sun had descended considerably, and the cold air tingled in my nose. Immense rocks cast long shadows, creating a scene too beautiful to be real. A few pointers to bear in mind before embarking on your journey: Study the map meticulously, and do not underestimate time constraints. What might take me, a seasoned hiker, five hours could easily demand a few additional hours from you. The website ut.no offers a comprehensive guide to all marked hiking trails the country boasts. Electricity is scarce (or virtually absent). Thus, packing a power bank is a necessity. While certain huts might feature solar panels allowing for half an hour of charging, it's wise not to rely on this as a primary source. If you're venturing alone, make sure someone is aware of your plans. Share your destination and estimated duration, enhancing your traceability in the event of an unforeseen mishap. Err on the side of excess rather than scarcity when packing provisions. Ensure they are securely packaged, using dry bags, a concept I previously discussed. Water is plentiful along the way. Do make sure to tap from fast running water, preferrably above the treeline. One principle prevalent in Norwegian outdoor pursuits is, 'There is no shame in turning back.' This implies that when weariness sets in or the weather abruptly shifts, persevering at all costs is not the main goal. Your personal safety is the most important thing to take care of. When utilizing DNT huts, acquaint yourself thoroughly with the specific hut's protocols. Reservation requirements or the ongoing hunting season (September-October) might necessitate extra preparation. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive from Kristiansand. There are busses driving through the valley, but they do not run very frequently. Thus it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

Tvedestrand is a tiny yet enchanting gem for various reasons, and a restaurant being one of them. The centuries old coastal town nestles snugly in one of the thousands of inlets along Norway's southern coast. It's delightful to take a leisurely stroll around the village itself, but my recommendation lies beyond the mainland. In July, you can hop aboard the "badebåt" (swim boat) and set sail for Furøya. Furøya is a petite island nestled in the heart of the Tvedestrand fjord. Firstly, the island itself is incredibly picturesque, adorned with exquisite old cottages, grazing goats and sheep, and numerous swimming spots. Moreover, it hosts an insanely cozy restaurant where regular concerts during the summer are held, adding to its magical allure and creating an unforgettable experience. I visited a few years ago and was utterly captivated by the whole atmosphere there. It was a sun-drenched summer day, and me and a gang of friends enjoyed a delightful meal at the Furøya restaurant. The goats casually wandering around the restaurant often sparked moments of hilarity. If you fancy an extended stay, you can even spend the night there. Check out the options on the DNT website. Furøya is a well-kept secret, known only to the locals, adding to its charm and exclusivity. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive either at Kristiansand Airport (KRS) or from Oslo (OSL). Public transport really takes forever, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

Once you're on vacation in Norway, you'll notice the Norwegian flag fluttering quite a bit on all sorts of occasions. First and foremost, it's a sort of national pride (not to be confused with nationalism). That is because Norway is a fairly young country, with a long history of dependence and domination by other (Scandinavian) powers. But there's also the use of a Norwegian pennant, indicating whether people are at home or not. Of course, this isn't something you'd see much in the larger cities, but in the countryside and areas where many Norwegians have their holiday cabins, you'll often see a Norwegian flag or pennant flying. And, it's widely used for marketing purposes; the brand 'Geographical Norway' you probably heard of? Beanies, sweaters, jackets, the lot. They all have Norwegian flags glued onto them...for some unfathomable reason. Also, during the day of the Constitution, which takes place on May 17th, there's a kind of Red-White-Blue haze over the country. It's a delightful day, it really is. No military parades, but a parade for, and by the children. As they are seen as the country's future. What a country, right? If you ever consider coming here, it's not a bad idea to visit Oslo during may. Just saying. Now a bit about the history of the flag. The Norwegian flag, commonly known as the "Flag of Norway" or "Norges flagg" in Norwegian, has a history dating back to the early 19th century. The design is a combination of a red background with a blue cross outlined in white that extends to the edges of the flag. Did you know, by the way, that the Danish flag (a white Nordic cross on a red background) is the oldest continuously used flag in the world? It’s been continually in use since the early 14th century. Alright, back to the Norwegian. The origins of the Norwegian flag can be traced back to the early 19th century when Norway and Sweden were in a union. The union between Norway and Sweden, known as the United Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway, lasted from 1814 to 1905. During this time, the Norwegian flag went through some changes. In 1821, a contest was held to design a new flag for Norway. The winning design, created by Fredrik Meltzer, featured a red field with a blue cross, similar to the current flag. However, it wasn't officially adopted at that time. In 1825, the Union Mark was added to the flag to symbolize the union with Sweden. The Union Mark was a blue square in the upper left corner of the flag, containing the Swedish and Norwegian coats of arms side by side. This design was used until the dissolution of the union in 1905. After Norway gained independence from the union with Sweden in 1905, the Union Mark was removed, and the flag adopted its present form. The red background represents the blood and sacrifice of the people, the blue cross signifies Norway's link to other Scandinavian countries, and the white border around the cross represents the country's commitment to peace. The Norwegian flag has since become a symbol of national identity and pride, and it is displayed on various occasions, including national holidays and events. And more often so for joyous reasons, instead of well...nationalistic ones. If you have any plans waving a Norwegian flag around while being here, please to take notice of the flag etiquette as states in the Norwegian flag law. Here are some key points: Respectful Treatment: The Norwegian flag should be treated with respect and dignity. It should not be used for inappropriate or offensive purposes. Correct Usage: The proportions and colors of the flag should be in accordance with official specifications. The red color should be a specific shade known as "Norwegian Red," and the blue cross should be a darker blue. Flag Position: When displayed with other flags, the Norwegian flag should be given a place of honor. It is customary to raise the Norwegian flag first and lower it last when displayed with other flags. Half-mast: The flag should be flown at half-mast as a sign of mourning. The decision to lower the flag is typically made by the government and may be done in the event of the death of a prominent figure or a national tragedy. Flag Burning: Burning the Norwegian flag is generally not illegal, but it is considered highly disrespectful. It is not a common or accepted form of protest in Norway. Commercial Use: The flag can be used for commercial purposes, but it should not be defaced or used in a manner that is disrespectful. Private Use: Individuals are free to display the flag on their private property. There are no strict regulations governing the use of the flag by private citizens, as long as it is done with respect.

Let me confide in you with a secret. The initial time I stepped foot in Norway, I found myself madly in love. Yes, undoubtedly, with the awe-inspiring landscapes and cherry blossoms, but also with a captivating young lady. At 18, in the throes of naivety, still mentally a child, as is the way with most young men of that age; it was what they call puppy love. Yet, in that moment, it felt authentic. As time passed, that enchantment waned, but my fondness for Norway endured, truly blossoming in and around the Hardangerfjord. The allure of the beauty and expansiveness left an indelible mark, drawing me back time and again. I won't endeavour to present an exhaustive list due to the sheer magnitude, but I do wish to offer insights to enrich your exploration of this magnificent region. Allow me the liberty of promptly acquainting you with the most enchanting lodging along the fjord coast. Let me commence by detailing the setting. Nestled along a narrow road, typical of the Norwegian fjords, this hotel in the diminutive village of Mauranger, boasting fewer than 30 houses, discreetly houses a world-class establishment. It's a well-kept secret, and you might inadvertently pass by; there's no sign or arrow, ensuring only those with a genuine desire stay. My emotions are stirred as I attempt to capture this place in words. Upon entering, meticulous attention to detail becomes apparent. The hues on the walls, floor tiles, furniture, and materials exhibit a sophisticated nonchalance. This initial impression permeates every facet, from the cuisine, where the attention to detail rivals no hotel chain, to the overall experience. I boldly assert, without hesitation, that this is the most characterful accommodation along the entire Hardangerfjord. When embarking from Bergen to explore the fjords, one owes it to all of Hardanger to revel in Norwegian hospitality at its zenith. Secure a night at the Hardanger Fjord Lodge; it promises to imprint a positive memory on your Norwegian journey and is a tribute to dedicated individuals infusing energy and love into such places. The surrounding area offers plenty of activities; consider a scenic walk through Bondhusdalen to the azure blue glacier lakes further down the valley. Another highlight on your traverse through Hardangerfjorden is Rosendal, a comprehensive experience offering aristocratic allure, a splendid rose garden, a classical music festival, a quaint café, and the prospect of overnight stays. Providing historical context, Baroniet Rosendal was a singular barony in Kvinnherad, Vestland, established in 1678 by King Christian V of Denmark-Norway. Completed in 1665, the castle now serves as a living museum, offering tours, concerts, lectures, theater, art exhibitions, accommodation, and catering. In a nutshell, the estate, a bequest of affluent nobility, invites a delightful afternoon. Rarely have I encountered such a splendid collection of roses, and a '60s Jaguar E-type in the parking lot provides testament to the refined taste of the clientele, a realm I, despite my humble apartment and wornout Mazda 3, am delighted to join. Oh, and one can spend the night here too. For those eager to conquer a fear of heights, a stylish method presents itself. In 2016, architect Carl-Viggo Hølmebakk unveiled a spectacular design, offering a breathtaking view of the immense Vøringsfossen and inducing a thrill with a narrow bridge over a vast chasm. Admitting to a modicum of acrophobia, not sufficient to deter me from traversing such bridges but ample to grip the railing and savor the panorama with a knot in my stomach. Yet, it's the epitome of waterfalls, and Hølmebek's design is nothing short of breathtaking. A must-stop on the descent from Hardangervidda, particularly in autumn when the softer light and yellowing birch trees in the lower valley enhance the experience. It's one of those places worthy of a spot on your bucket list. Curiously absent from my discourse is Trolltunga, and that's by design. I find it somewhat overrated. Undoubtedly, the vista is spectacular, and the protruding rock offers an opportunity for a picturesque Instagram photo. However, the wait of half an hour, orchestrated by around 40 influencers taking a fair amount of time while diligently positioning their back-ends into the best angle for a modest Instagram following, seems contrary to the essence of a visit to Norway. Let's skip that, shall we? The true allure lies in locally produced fare, and Hardanger, in particular, is a fecund source of an array of fruits and dairy products. Exceptional apple cider and cheese are crafted here. Spildegaarden, for instance, offers a glass of ice-cold apple cider and a delectable lunch in the spring sun. The lovely hostesses / owners greet you with a generous smile and a heavy Norwegian accent. Besides Spildegaarden there are numerous gems along the Hardanger Fjord that beckon exploration of locally produced drinks and food, too many to enumerate. Maybe read my article I wrote previously on farm shops, consult the map, and chart your course. Heit Sauna Sørfjorden extends an invitation to a steaming sauna and a rejuvenating fjord bath. From my vantage as an experienced hiker, nothing surpasses the delight of unwinding muscles in a sauna with a panoramic view of the fjord, mountains, and snow-capped peaks after a day in the open. The sauna, perched at the quay's edge, offers a captivating panorama. A sauna master warmly greets you, ensuring the sauna radiates warmth. The Finnish-designed sauna stove, fired with wood, complements the experience. It's a bit of a rite of passage to take a dip in the icy fjord water. After a few immersions, a peculiar equilibrium is reached, and the demarcation between warmth and cold becomes imperceptible. A uniquely invigorating and almost transcendental encounter; reservations are prudent as this spot garners popularity. For an exceptional dining experience, securing a table at Buer is imperative. Nestled in a narrow valley with a glacier view, its remote location metaphorically mirrors Buer's distinction as the premier restaurant in the entire Hardanger region. Helmed by a proficient chef from Voss and attended by a charming Danish waitress, it's an unequivocal recommendation! Here, a distinctive and thoughtful fusion of wine and dishes unfolds. The ambiance is warm, and each staff member radiates enthusiasm. The presentation and flavor of the dishes here truly attain world-class status. If the urge for dining out strikes, do yourself a favor and reserve a table at Buer. A commendable performance! As a parting gift, consider an idyllic tip for complete relaxation during an overnight stay. Christel and Sverre now offer a diminutive 'lookout box,' affording a splendid view through the trees onto the Hardangerfjord. Beyond being exceptional hosts, it's a quaint retreat, unassuming and exclusively yours. And everything is there, squirls included! Jolly charming alltogether! As previously noted, an attempt to encapsulate the entirety of the Hardanger Fjord in a single blog post would be ambitious (understatement). Expect more articles detailing specific places along the fjord. My objective is not exhaustiveness; rather, it's to furnish original tips to check of some of the Hardanger highlight for an enchanting trip through this gorgeous area. And do share your encounters with me. I'm on Instagram and LinkedIn. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Bergen Flesland Airport (BGO). From there public transport is a bit of a challenging way to explore Hardanger properly, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

I frequently host friends from overseas, and inevitably, the perennial question arises as we venture into town: 'how do I say ... (thank you)... in Norwegian?' For the true language enthusiasts, Innovative Language promises a fast-track towards considerable fluency in just three months. Remarkably, for English speakers, this journey is often swifter than anticipated, given that a significant array of English words traces its origins back to Old Norse, yes, that's right! We have a lot in common. For those not inclined towards linguistic pursuits and disinclined to ascend their Norwegian proficiency to a B1 level, keep reading. The typical Norwegian, with few exceptions among the boomer generation, converses fluently in English and exhibits an extraordinary willingness to assist when asked. Hence, responding to popular demand, it is fun to read a bit on etiquette and expressions. This knowledge might serve as a source of personal pride when a Norwegian graciously points you towards the nearest coffee establishment and you can thank them for doing so. Let us set off: "Hei!" The 'Hi' salutation is applicable throughout the day, whether addressing the mayor, the doctor, or a cherished companion. It's all fine. "God dag!" A more formal greeting, reserved for daylight hours. For instance, I employ it during visits to my girlfriend's grandmother, recognizing that older individuals often place a premium on courtesy—an inclination I share, despite not yet reaching the status of seniority. "God morgen!" A simple expression meaning 'good morning'. The temporal boundaries are somewhat nebulous, yet I refrain from its usage after 11 am, using it only after if it concernes my girlfriend, with a coiffure disheveled from a night of on town, emerges from her slumber around noon. "God kveld!" This way of saying 'Good evening' carries a touch formality. I use it when meeting my girlfriends grandmother for example. The elderly often appreciate a bit etiquette. "Takk!" This is how to say thank you in Norwegian. Expressed for a myriad of occasions, gratitude extends to having your coffee served to you, the polite declination or acceptance of an offer (Nei, takk; ja takk), or acknowledgment of a (not so very personal) compliment. "Tusen takk!" This one you use in profound gratitude as it translates as 'a thousand thanks), whether in the sprint for a bus where the driver kindly waits or upon receipt of an exceptional gift, this phrase is the on the use. "Mange takk!" A refined variant of the foregoing translating as 'many thanks', nuanced and elegant, though regrettably a bit old fashioned. But that's how I like it. Nevertheless, as a tourist, you might gain some bonus points here! "Takk for hjelpen!" Norwegians, are known for their strong willingness to help out. Be it a lift to the next village, directional guidance, or clarification of a puzzling matter, their seamless transition to English is met with an immediate commitment to sort you out. Thus, it behooves you to extend your gratitude in Norwegian. So preparing yourself by mastering the phrase 'takk for hjelpen' (thank you for helping) will pay off. And as mentioned before, you're not that far off from learning Norwegian quickly as an English speaker. Much of it you'll already understand while reading. So might as well give it a try, right? Why not test and try a little bit.

Close to the heart of Oslo (or close to the royal heart of Oslo at least) there exists a unique kind of lodging that defies convention. Numa Stays Oslo. It's not your typical hotel, yet it embodies the essence of one, all while remaining remarkably budget-friendly. Join me as we dellllllllve into this intriguing concept. It may seem as though I've gone to great lengths to craft a title that's as complex as can be, and indeed, that's true. However, it was the only way to describe the hotel I'm about to discuss in this post. And here's why. I've become rather selective when it comes to accommodation. While I occasionally opt for hotels for sheer convenience, my inclination has shifted towards a different preference. What I truly desire is a comfortable bed, a clean room, and the flexibility to make my own choices. To some extent, Airbnb fulfils these desires, but all too often, it comes with host-related hassles and uncertainties about room conditions. Moreover, there's the matter of breakfast – a pivotal aspect of my travels. It's not that continental hotel breakfasts aren't good; it's just that I firmly believe that food plays an indispensable role in shaping one's experience of a destination. I yearn to sample a myriad of flavors, being a devoted enthusiast of delectable bread and dainty treats. Therefore, my ideal morning involves venturing out for breakfast and a cup of coffee at a place that resonates with me. And that's precisely what you can do excellently in Oslo – curate your own breakfast experience. If you share my sentiments, then I have an exceptional recommendation for you: Numa Stays. The affordable hotel concept is elegantly simple – self-check-in via a mobile app, generously spacious and tastefully designed studio’s, and an ambiance free from the clamor of fellow hotel guests. These 'hotel' rooms are discreetly scattered throughout the city, though they typically find their home in some of Oslo's most distinguished neighbourhoods. This is a noteworthy feat, considering that square meter prices in these areas are often exorbitant, making it challenging to establish a any viable hotel of any kind. For instance, in Oslo's Urianienborg, you can find studios for approximately 160 euros / dollars / whatever coin you use per night, a bargain considering this is one of the city's most sophisticated districts, housing numerous embassies and showcasing an impressive array of street-parked Porsches. It's important to note that the appeal of Numa Stays extends beyond the luxurious neighbourhoods. These areas offer serene nights, as well as a plethora of charming local and off-the-beaten-path restaurants, coffee shops, and boutiques. Before we conclude, allow me to recommend the best-situated studio – one that lies in close proximity to the Royal Palace, within walking distance of the city centre and Majorstuen. You can book your Numa Stay here. Oh and one more thing, pets are allowed! So bring your furry, scaly or feathery friend if you please. After you've woken up wonderfully in your Numa hotel, it's time for a fantastic breakfast. You find yourself in the heart of one of the capital's most elegant neighborhoods. Surrounded by stately townhouses and beautiful apartment buildings from the late 19th century, you can stroll to Oslo Raw in less than 5 minutes. You can confidently consider this one of the best places in Oslo for breakfast. And, as you might imagine, most mere mortals have their breakfast at home. Therefore, it won't surprise you that the clientele here is, well, quite unique. It's mostly young people, dressed in expensive attire, who somehow manage to look like they've just returned from a holiday all year round. But don't let superficial appearances distract you. You're here for a good breakfast. Oslo Raw opens its doors at 9 AM on weekdays and 10 AM on weekends. They pull out all the stops, serving everything from oatmeal to turmeric lattes and chaga hot cocoa. This establishment offers delectable vegan and predominantly healthy fare, making it perfect for those seeking a nutritious start to their day. On the menu, you'll find acai bowls, coconut yogurt, wraps, avocado toast, and Belgian waffles. Do indulge in a smoothie and a "savory waffle" featuring beet hummus, avocado, and pickled red onion – an exquisite treat. Here are a few more recommendations within walking distance if you're staying in Frogner or Uranienborg: The most renowned park in Oslo: Frogner Parken. A lengthy shopping street boasting numerous charming boutiques: Bogstadveien. An exceptional wine bar and an equally outstanding restaurant: Cru. The bar at Hotel Sommerro. There's often live jazzzzzzzzzz there.

You may have come across some of my writings, and I certainly hope that you have. Now and then, I take the liberty of hoping that my words have found their way to your discerning eyes. If that's indeed the case, then you're probably aware of my deep affection for the melodious tunes of jazz and the lesser-known gems hidden within the intricate labyrinth of musical genres. Let me not lay any grand claim that jazz is an obscure art form (which it absolutely isn't), but it's fair to say that some consider it a refined taste, an acquired appreciation, if you will. Now, let's flip through the pages of my life's recent chapter: my journey from the bustling canals of Amsterdam to the serene embrace of Kristiansand. To be entirely honest, my knowledge of this newfound haven was as shallow as a wisp of morning mist. Before my move, Kristiansand was just a name on a map, a place I had only visited once for a job interview. I was stepping into a blank canvas, intentionally so. Sure, I had read up a bit about it, but the perilous condition known as "analysis paralysis" had taken root in my mind. When you overthink things, your intuition tends to fade away. The pros and cons pile up until they become an impenetrable wall, making decisions an elusive pursuit. Let's keep this story concise. The revelation that awaited me in Kristiansand was nothing short of remarkable. Equally astonishing was the day when, after my first night in this new territory, I ventured into the modest town and discovered elegantly designed posters announcing an upcoming music festival. This extraordinary event was a showcase of artists I had long admired. My excitement knew no bounds. However, here comes a confession: my financial situation at that time was far from rosy. The expenses of my move and the unexpected salary delays due to an administrative maze had left me in a dire financial state. You can probably picture it now. Buying a festival ticket seemed like a distant dream. On that first day, though, I was blissfully unaware of the delayed salary, so I impulsively purchased a weekend pass. Fast forward three weeks, and the much-anticipated moment had arrived. Eivind Aarset, Nils Petter Molvær, Jan Bang, Arve Henriksen, and other virtuosos were about to grace the stage, and I was overflowing with excitement. The details of the first concert have faded with time, but the memory of the final performance remains vivid. It was a live remix, a musical feat where two performances merged seamlessly. A curious concept, indeed. Sitting next to me was a cheerful woman, clearly savoring every note. Our conversation's origins are a bit hazy now, but it began with mutual curiosity about our presence there. We exchanged jokes and playful banter until the next musical piece commanded our attention. After the final notes, we introduced ourselves. "I'm Marylin," she said, "a percussionist." My response, a mix of curiosity and anticipation, was, "Will we have the pleasure of witnessing your percussion skills on stage tonight?" Alas, she humbly shared that she wouldn't be performing that evening but regaled me with stories of the illustrious artists she had collaborated with. The next concert and live remix on the same stage marked the end of our conversation as the audience dispersed. Later, I found myself at Vaktbua, a cozy café hosting an afterparty. Once again, I was surrounded by luminaries, as nearly all the festival's artists were in attendance. What followed was a lavish soirée filled with dance and drinks. At a point when Norwegian law dictated the end of alcohol service, the party migrated once more. By then, I had struck up a conversation with a Czech journalist, who happened to have an invitation to this new destination. To keep things brief, I was invited to join them. This time, our destination was a spacious underground venue beneath Dronningsgate. Its ambiance was more reminiscent of a lively tavern than a typical underground setting. Drinks flowed freely, food was served, and the room buzzed with virtuoso musicians. My memories of that night are a bit fuzzy, but it suffices to say that it was a splendid evening that solidified my sense of belonging in my new city. The following morning, I woke up with a substantial hangover. As I strolled along Bystranda, the city's beachfront haven, I found myself delving into the depths of the internet. Suddenly, the memory of the lively woman I had met resurfaced. Her name had momentarily slipped my mind but soon returned. In a world abundant with talented female percussionists, the name "Marylin" isn't exactly common. Remarkably, I swiftly located her, confirming her collaborations with musical giants like Miles Davis, Wayne Shorter, and Jan Garbarek. She was even the only woman to have graced Miles Davis's band. Once again, I was struck with awe, though this time, it was tinged with the remnants of a hangover, against the backdrop of a city completely foreign to me. That very afternoon, the festival's final series of concerts began. I didn't cross paths with Marylin again, but by then, I had fallen head over heels for the eccentric yet enchanting world of PUNKT. I embarked on two more visits to this extraordinary festival, each time indulging in a captivating tapestry of musical wonders. Punkt caters to a niche of musicians and enthusiasts dedicated to the spontaneity and virtuosity of musical expression. The atmosphere it creates is nothing short of magical. As a fervent music lover, I feel compelled to champion the remarkable artists whose talents, while interconnected within the musical sphere, often elude the broader public's awareness. If you have even a modicum of affection for music, I implore you to experience this splendid festival at least once in your lifetime, complemented by the manifold pleasures and amusements that Kristiansand has to offer. You can find more details in the accompanying article I wrote earlier. And, of course, I couldn't resist curating a modest little Spotify playlist to offer you a glimpse of the auditory tapestry that awaits (or eludes) you at the Punkt festival. To Jan Bang, if you happen to come across this, you are a hero! And to Nils P. Molvær, if by some chance you read this, rest assured that if I meet my end, "Alone in the Bathtub" will be played at the ceremony—twice.

The word 'Dass' is a somewhat rude way to describe a toilet in Norwegian. And that's what hangs above the toilet door in bright letters. However, that doesn't set the tone for what awaits you here. It's in fact quite the opposite. But it does indicate that things are laid-back around here. The service is absolutely perfect, mind you, and strictly adheres to etiquette, but it's carried out by a hip dude wearing a cap, complicated sneakers, Berlin-ish retro glasses, and matching mustache. That's the kind of vibe you should have in mind. I reckon El Brutus is, in a way, a place for discerning palates who aren't afraid of surprises. The first time (out of four) I dined at Brutus (now it's El Brutus) left an impression. They had Icelandic pancakes (blibber-blabber-kakur), whale tartare, and something with beetroots on the menu. The dishes and the combination with the chosen wines can best be described as being tickled in a way that you can't possibly sit still. And in my case, that's a huge compliment. The portions are small but they make an impact with their simplicity and bold flavors. Nothing is what it seems, as the menu describes the dishes rather vaguely. But that's what makes it awesome. Don't expect any pretentious Barolo's or heavy-handed Bordeaux wines here, but rather obscure natural wines sourced from tiny vineyards on an island that not even Columbus, the Royal Navy, or NASA knew about. I've eaten there three more times afterwards, and I'll surely do it again. Especially since they've now changed their name from Brutus to El Brutus. I guess this is the most exiting winebar in Oslo. And then I haven't even tasted their newly presented Spanish menu. Anyway... Habla español to me cool-looking-waiter! *Update 25.09.2023: We tried El Brutus, the Spanish take on what once was just Brutus. Flavours were 'ok', the wine great. But perhaps it was the potent combination of inflation, rising interest rates, and increasing wage costs that necessitated the rather hefty pricing of the dishes. A small plate of cauliflower, for instance, cost around 180 NOK. That together with a rather 'blank' and uncommitted waiter, made that things didn't really add up in my head. So, I don't really know what to say...because I would love to be as lyrical as I was the first time I had dinner at Brutus. But it just...it didn't add up.

Recently, I found myself falling from one astonishment to the next in rapid succession. Allow me to recount the experience. I was strolling through 'Løkka,' en route to either drop something off or retrieve it—I can't quite recall. Somewhere in the vicinity of O’Reillys Irish bar, much to my surprise, I beheld a second-hand store that I must have passed by at least 15 times before. This revelation says far more about my own observance than the store itself. I speak from experience. I'm selectively blind. Upon descending the stairs, I found myself in a sequence of peculiar cellar spaces, each brimming with the most marvelous and eccentric assortment of items imaginable. From sculptures to vintage posters and curious lamps, the collection was nothing short of captivating. Moreover, there was a considerable abundance of peculiar clothing items: overalls, dungarees, and eccentric dresses. The establishment is run by a Frenchman, and I strongly suspect that he occasionally takes a voyaaaaage to France in his Citroen H, topping off his van with curiosities to astonish guys like myself. Had my home not already been replete with an abundance of bric-a-brac, I would undoubtedly have made a plethora of purchases. God forbid! Keep in mind that you might need to make some space in your suitcase if you decide to indulge in this treasure trove. Check out his store ask: 'ca va?'

The winters are quite long here. Meaning it's dark and cold from October until April. And exactly because of that, the cultural offerings during those months are immense, and that's precisely why a visit to Norway in November or December is not a bad idea at all. It's cozy, intimate, and magical around this time of year. If you decide to come to Norway during the cold months, there's one thing you absolutely must do, and that is to buy a ticket for a Christmas concert. During the dark months before Christmas, there are Christmas concerts happening every week in all major cities. And this can range from jazz and classical to pop and rock. Both renowned and up-and-coming artists slightly adjust their repertoire and perform concerts in the most extraordinary venues. Think of churches, chapels, museums and barns. A few years ago, for instance, just before Christmas, I went with my sister and her husband to a concert by Silje Nergaard in one of the smaller intimate churches in Oslo. Not only do you feel like a part of the local life in this way, but you also experience music in a very special and magical setting, with lots of candlelight, fresh snow, and the scent of cinnamon and hot chocolate. First and foremost, it's important to find a Christmas concert that suits your taste. Use 'Julekonsert' as a search term on Ticketmaster and see what's available. It might be handy to have Spotify at hand so that you can listen to a repertoire in advance because you will undoubtedly come across artists you've never heard of before. Once you've found something, buy your ticket. Don't wait too long, as these concerts consistently sell out. My favorite: the Christmas concerts 'It's snowing on my piano' by jazz pianist Bugge Wesseltoft (NO).

Embarking on a Norwegian adventure often feels like navigating a puzzle due to the vastness of the country. Picture this: you'd like to immerse yourself in the vibrant energy of Oslo, a yearning to witness the beauty of the west coast's fjords, and you've watched countless insta reels, tempting you to explore the enchanting island of Senja. The ticking clock suggests time will force you to compromise, but allow me to introduce a more nuanced perspective. Planes and trains Let me start with an example. Your journey begins with a plane touching down in Oslo, a city that beckons you to linger for a few days, for good reason. Yet, the allure of Bergen calls, and a flight seems the swiftest course of action—undeniably true. But ponder the actual time siphoned by air travel. Thirty minutes from Oslo to the airport, a luggage check-in dance ideally performed 2 hours before liftoff, a one-hour flight to Bergen, and an additional 40 minutes from Bergen's airport to its city centre. A grand total of approximately 4.5 hours from hotel doorstep to hotel doorstep, or realistically, a journey spanning 5.5 hours. A timeframe not filled with noteworthy sights but rather with anticipatory waiting, be it in airport lounges or the confines of an aircraft. For this escapade, I would recommend to explore the possibility of a train journey. Not necessarily to gain time, but to spend that otherwise lost time in quality. Imagine, instead of languishing in an airport, being ensconced in a train carriage, gazing upon the mesmerizing Norwegian panorama from the comfort of a plush seat, coffee in hand, and WiFi at your fingertips. The train voyage from Oslo to Bergen, a legendary odyssey, perennially gracing top 10 lists of awe-inspiring train journeys. My inaugural journey had me, for about 6 hours, glued to the window in complete awe of the passing scenery. A nugget of wisdom: reserve a seat facing left in the driving direction. As you traverse past Finse, you'll be treated to the spectacle of Hardangerjøkulen, a breathtaking glacier. Seven hours on the train, a mere two hours longer than the airborne alternative, but seven hours spent in fruitful contemplation. Secure your train tickets at VY well in advance, for this sought-after journey tends to sell out far in advance. Should the skies beckon, book your flight here. Electric automobiles Should the siren song of exploration guide you to traverse the entirety of this land, planes become an inevitability. Senja's allure, for instance, mandates a flight to Narvik. But what then? Enter the Norwegian crucible of electric driving, where frequent charging stations are a given. I propose the contemplation of an electric vehicle. Beyond the serenity of their silent hum, the economics are quite obvious. Last week's petrol and diesel prices flirted with 25NOK per liter (which is more or less equal to $2,50), a steep investment if you're considering a small road trip. In contrast, charging a Polestar 2 comes at about 150NOK, propelling you 500km. The equivalent petrol journey demands a purse 10 times heavier. The moral is clear. Should the whispers of a road trip already stir within, I advise you to reserve an electric car as soon as you have a rough idea of your itinerary. The high season depletes the electric car reservoir at most rental companies, and an early reservation ensures the exact car for your journey, often with a fair period for reconsideration. A word on acquiring a vehicular rental at an airport: not all 'airstrips' boast car rental services. Opt for the slightly more endowed airports, where a car hire awaits amidst the control towers and runways. Behold, the following aviation havens extend this convenience: Oslo Gardermoen Airport (OSL), Bergen Flesland Airport (BGO), Stavanger Sola Airport (SVG), Trondheim Værnes Airport (TRD), Tromsø Langnes Airport (TOS), Kristiansand Kjevik Airport (KRS), Ålesund Vigra Airport (AES), Bodø Airport (BOO), Sandefjord Torp Airport (TRF), Molde Årø Airport (MOL), Harstad/Narvik Airport (EVE), Haugesund Karmøy Airport (HAU), Evenes Airport (EVE). Public Transport Much of your sojourn can be orchestrated with the finesse of public transportation, particularly within cities boasting stellar transit networks. Oslo's metro, a masterpiece in motion, even elevates you to Frognerseteren, one of the city's pinnacles, affording a regal view of fjord and city. To navigate this symphony, wield the ENTUR app—an oracle of nationwide timetables offering an array of choices. Occasionally, this app may lead you to other maestros, prompting the purchase of tickets through a different melody. Fear not, for clarity prevails. Prepare for your venture with the anticipation of these downloadable overtures: - VY (bus and train) - ENTUR (travel planner, ticket sales) - Widerøe (serving the smaller airports) - Norwegian Air Shuttle (conducting flights to larger airports) - SAS (orchestrating most routes between larger airports) How to travel in Norway is truly is up to each individual to decide how they wish to shape their journey. However, these are your key tools to make your trip unforgettable and enjoyable. Godspeed!

I have fortunately enjoyed a considerable amount of art education through my studies, which has fostered a natural inclination towards art in various forms of expression. However, it sometimes triggers a strong adverse reaction when I find myself in a gallery contemplating yet another pile of polyurethane foam that purportedly symbolizes the artists challenging childhood in a wealthy Western city. Of course, the numerous museums in Norway are truly worthwhile. Honestly, when in Oslo I implore you to visit the Nasjonal Museet and spend an entire day there. Nevertheless, to put it all into perspective, the International Museum of Children's Art in Oslo serves as a splendid antidote. The immense collection of (international) works is overwhelming and often deeply moving. Almost daily, I am convinced that we should listen more to children to refine our standards and values. Embarking on a visit to this remarkable museum is a good starting point, as it is far from childish. It showcases artwork from children worldwide, and there is often a special exhibition dedicated to a current theme. An admission ticket costs a mere 75NOK, so there's no reason to abstain on that account.

In my younger years, I took pride in sailing a small open boat. It was a passion that captivated me for several years. During each summer, I dedicated four full weeks of hard work to cover the expenses for maintenance and mooring. Whenever I had a brief moment of respite, I seized the opportunity to embark on my boat. Time was a precious commodity, which meant I wouldn't let unpredictable weather deter me. It was common for storm warnings to be issued, rain to fall like poetic droplets, or for the wind to remain absent. Yet, these uncertainties didn't faze me; I felt at one with the water. A sense of peaceful wanderlust filled my thoughts, and the essence of freedom was almost palpable. I dressed appropriately, guided by the whispered advice of weather forecasts, and set sail without hesitation. Now residing in Norway, I frequently rekindle that past euphoria. Regardless of the thermometer plunging to 10 degrees or the raucous cries of stormy skies, even if the landscape is blanketed in cloudiness, my heart yearns to explore the outdoors and relive the liberating sensation akin to my time on the sailboat. This passion for endless exploration thrives due to the remarkable clothing I possess. There's hardly anything to hinder my adventures, no matter the prevailing conditions. If you're considering a stay in Norway lasting several weeks, being prepared to face a range of weather variations is crucial. While sunny rays and clear skies may fortuitously grace your stay, the opposite is just as likely, with consecutive weeks of clouds and rain. Caution should guard against the intrusion of harsh weather during your visit. At the forefront of your readiness should be a dependable jacket. Though this might sound obvious, it warrants emphasis, given the number of travellers caught off guard by fickle mountain weather. Five years ago, I bestowed upon myself a great favour by acquiring a high-quality jacket. When I say 'good', I mean a jacket with these key features: An outer layer that repels wind and moisture, coupled with an insulated inner layer that envelopes you in warmth, retaining your body's heat. Importantly, these two layers must be separable, allowing for adaptability. Hence, in warm rain, you wear the waterproof outer layer; in cold rain, both layers cocoon you. This apparent simplicity holds great significance, for even the simplest hike can subject you to a sudden temperature drop of up to 15 degrees due to weather shifts and altitude changes. As the saying goes, 'four seasons in a day'. This sentiment resonates through my personal experiences. So, whether your journey involves rustic escapes or urban adventures, ensure such a jacket finds a place in your luggage. Bear in mind that, when you step onto Norwegian soil, your jacket becomes a sanctuary – a reliable bulwark against nature's whims. Allow me to offer guidance on obtaining the ultimate choice. I personally think the best jacket to buy when visiting Norway is one from Norrøna. They are by far the best manufacturers on the market. With a rich legacy in crafting outdoor apparel, this brand hails proudly from the Norwegian landscape, adding an extra layer of charm to their offerings. While it may necessitate a modest financial commitment, ponder the enduring value it will bestow, a companion for the entirety of your lifetime. Regard it as an extension of your home, a cocoon of comfort and protection.

When driving along the Kingsroad through Gudbrandsdalen, it's difficult not to succumb to a kind of gently sweet daydream about rural romance. That sentiment is both justified and unjustified. Life was once impoverished and harsh around here, with agriculture and forestry as the only modest economic activities. But times have changed. Especially in the summer, the landscape takes on a picturesque charm. The association with romance and nostalgia is now fitting. Particularly when you turn right or left (depending on the direction of travel) and make your way down the long driveway to Sygard Grytting. This is one of Norway's oldest surviving farms, with a history that reaches deep into the Middle Ages. It was the place where pilgrims traveling from Oslo to Trondheim could find lodging. And so can we, although our purpose may be slightly less noble nowadays. I believe this is your only opportunity in Norway to spend the night in a medieval inn. Additionally, traditional food is served here. If you're not yet convinced, take a look and book your stay. I promise you won't regret it. Have you spent all your money on great food from 'gårdsbutikker'? Then consider a slightly more affordable stay in an Arctic Dome. But do pay a visit to Sygard Grytting anyway. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive either at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

The Norwegians possess a profound affinity for all that emerges from the sea: crabs, cod, and more. This predilection is hardly surprising when one considers that the world's finest fishing waters lie just off the coast of Norway. Especially near Senja's shores, the fish almost leap into your lap (slight exaggeration, but not by much). If you're a seafood enthusiast or enjoy angling for it, I recommend perusing my earlier article on Senja. Nevertheless, I digress slightly. A firm favorite among Norwegians, shrimp grace the menus of many a quaint eatery and seafood restaurant. Even on private terraces, boats, or piers, they constitute a customary ritual throughout the summer. However, this can occasionally bewilder tourists. You expect to order a shrimp dish, and you receive a mound of unpeeled shrimp, a few slices of bread, some mayonnaise, and a couple of lemon wedges. But once you're in the know, it all becomes clear. Picture a sun-drenched day in July. You're seated at a seaside terrace, with an ice-cold beer or a glass of Riesling in front of you, indulging in colossal, freshly-caught shrimp. There's truly nothing better in that moment. But how to eat to eat shrimp in Norway? That's what I'm about to tell you and prepare you to not be caught off guard when that platter of unpealed shrimp is placed before you. So, you might wonder, how does one proceed? Firstly, take a slice of bread and spread it with a touch of mayonnaise or aioli, as per your preference. Add a pinch of pepper to taste. Then, embark on the delicate task of peeling the shrimp. Begin by pressing with two fingers just behind the head; once it detaches, place it in a dish for the shells. Next, start at the belly of the shrimp and gently remove the remaining shell. Repeat this process about 15 times until your bread slice is generously adorned. Sprinkle a bit of lemon over it, order another glass of wine, and you're ready to enjoy your meal. Shrimp often grace the menus of many simpler eateries and brasseries, but there's no need to limit yourself to restaurants. What's even more enjoyable is purchasing shrimp on your own, preferably directly from a fisherman. This is often possible in smaller coastal towns. It may not be prominently advertised, but inquire with a local Norwegian, and you'll likely receive an excellent tip on which fisherman is arriving at the harbor and whether they've caught any shrimp. There are even entire WhatsApp and Telegram groups where nearly the entire village is a member of, sharing announcements of available fish or shrimp. If all of this sounds too complex, you can always buy individual shrimp. For two hearty eaters, a kilogram is often more than sufficient. Just be sure to choose fresh, not frozen shrimp. So, if you see shrimp on the menu in Norway, order them. This summer for example, I found myself in Narvik, a town not particularly renowned for its culinary culture. However, it boasts a "fiskehallen" (fish market) where you can truly acquire the very best shrimp. There's also an adjacent seafood restaurant that is absolutely worth a visit. If you find yourself in Narvik, make it your lunch destination—you won't regret it.

Don't get me wrong; Norway is still colossal. But when you glance at Norway on a world map, the Mercator projection throws a spanner in the works. Anything closer to the poles appears disproportionately large, while anything nearer the equator seems disproportionately small. In a nutshell, Greenland seems colossal, while the entire continent of Africa appears minuscule. For those momentarily fuzzy on the Mercator projection, here's a brief refresher: The Mercator projection is a cartographic method widely used to represent the Earth's surface on flat maps, particularly for navigation and sea charts. It's named after the Flemish cartographer Gerardus Mercator, who presented it in 1569. Norway shares its western and northern borders with the North Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. To the east, it borders Sweden, while in the northeast, it shares borders with Finland and Russia, and to the south, it neighbors Denmark. It boasts an extensive coastline along the North Sea and the Norwegian Sea, featuring deep fjords cutting through the interior. However, determining the length of this coastline is a matter of debate due to the vast number of deep fjords, islands, and inlets that characterize Norway's coast. Consequently, the coastline varies depending on the methodology. If we consider the mainland coastline, excluding fjords and inlets, it's estimated to be around 2,650 kilometers (approximately 1,650 miles). Yet, if we include the fjords and inlets, the total coastline becomes much longer, estimated at around 25,000 kilometers (about 15,500 miles). Now, you're starting to grasp the geographical complexity of the country. In fact, should you decide to drive from the southernmost point of Norway, Lindesnes, to the extreme northeastern corner of Vardø (on which I wrote an extensive piece), it would take you approximately 29 hours of continuous driving, depending on weather conditions. And this route primarily goes through Sweden and Finland. That's roughly the same distance as driving from Denver to Washington D.C. If you were to stick to Norway for the entire journey, I'd venture to guess it might take three to four times as long. So if you're planning a trip to Norway soon, it's wise to make a careful selection of what you want to see for this land is still massive, yet not as big as it seems on the map.

When you're at work, you might want to save this article for later, as I'm going to discuss my underwear. It could be quite awkward if your boss happens to glance over your shoulder and sees you reading an article about some random guy on the internet waxing eloquent about woolen undergarments. Nevertheless, that's precisely what we're addressing here. In fact, I considered it absolutely necessary to talk about my underwear. Let's build up the suspense by first debunking a few myths. Woolen underwear is indeed crafted from wool, but not the coarse type that makes your neck itch. Furthermore, calling it "underwear" is a bit of a misnomer. It's worn beneath your regular clothing as an additional layer that greatly reduces heat loss. Underneath that, you wear your actual underwear. Now that we've clarified all of this, allow me to briefly explain why woolen underwear is a must-have if you plan to visit Norway between October and June. I purchased my very first set about seven years ago. Autumn had just begun, and my craving for outdoor adventures was insatiable. My plan was to beat the first snowfall and embark on a mountain trek near Hovden (which, by the way, is a fantastic ski area if you're interested). It was a radiant day in early October. The cold air nipped at me as I took deep breaths through my nose. My backpack sat comfortably, neither too light nor too heavy. My shoes were well broken-in and kept warm by my woolen socks (yes, more wool). The temperature hovered around freezing, evidenced by the thin layer of frost giving the autumn foliage a whitish glow. After the first half-hour of hiking, I stood still for a moment and uttered a few euphoric words, something along the lines of "beautiful" and "happy." What I eventually muttered was, "Hmm, it's a bit chilly." You see, I was wearing a very thin hiking pants. Usually, you warm up as you walk, but when it's freezing and the wind is brisk, as it was that day, the thin fabric offers little protection against the cold. There was no alternative but to sit down in the middle of a vast open valley, take off my shoes, lower my pants, and clumsily wriggle into my woolen underwear in a Mr. Bean-like fashion. I had been overly optimistic regarding the temperature. The beauty of woolen underwear is that it warms you up immediately. There are few materials that insulate as effectively as wool. Anyway, with renewed determination and warm legs, I continued my journey—a five-hour hike to a small cabin at an elevation above 1,200 meters. Upon arrival, I just managed to have an ice-cold beer just before the sun disappeared behind a mountain ridge. The thermometer attached to the cabin read -7 degrees Celsius. Still warm from the long hike and sporting my somewhat unfashionable 1990s Dale of Norway (woolen) sweater, I felt like a king. And warm, indeed. That night, the temperature would drop to -11 degrees, making me thoroughly appreciate the wood-burning stove I had lit upon arrival. The moral of this story is surprisingly simple: invest in a set of woolen underwear. Whether you're camping, skiing, or hunting for the Northern Lights in Tromsø, you'll derive immense pleasure from warm legs and an equally toasty upper body. If I managed to convince you, or the prospect of very low temperatures during your visit to Norway managed to convince you, have a look here! A quick disclaimer: I'm writing about splendid weather in October. While it happens frequently, it's by no means guaranteed. The rain can pour down in torrents. So, always travel well-prepared ('Yes, dad').