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  • Destination: why the flag of Norway is fluttering just about everywhere

    Once you're on vacation in Norway, you'll notice the Norwegian flag fluttering quite a bit on all sorts of occasions. First and foremost, it's a sort of national pride (not to be confused with nationalism). That is because Norway is a fairly young country, with a long history of dependence and domination by other (Scandinavian) powers. But there's also the use of a Norwegian pennant, indicating whether people are at home or not. Of course, this isn't something you'd see much in the larger cities, but in the countryside and areas where many Norwegians have their holiday cabins, you'll often see a Norwegian flag or pennant flying. And, it's widely used for marketing purposes; the brand 'Geographical Norway' you probably heard of? Beanies, sweaters, jackets, the lot. They all have Norwegian flags glued onto them...for some unfathomable reason. Also, during the day of the Constitution, which takes place on May 17th, there's a kind of Red-White-Blue haze over the country. It's a delightful day, it really is. No military parades, but a parade for, and by the children. As they are seen as the country's future. What a country, right? If you ever consider coming here, it's not a bad idea to visit Oslo during may. Just saying. Now a bit about the history of the flag. The Norwegian flag, commonly known as the "Flag of Norway" or "Norges flagg" in Norwegian, has a history dating back to the early 19th century. The design is a combination of a red background with a blue cross outlined in white that extends to the edges of the flag. Did you know, by the way, that the Danish flag (a white Nordic cross on a red background) is the oldest continuously used flag in the world? It’s been continually in use since the early 14th century. Alright, back to the Norwegian. The origins of the Norwegian flag can be traced back to the early 19th century when Norway and Sweden were in a union. The union between Norway and Sweden, known as the United Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway, lasted from 1814 to 1905. During this time, the Norwegian flag went through some changes. In 1821, a contest was held to design a new flag for Norway. The winning design, created by Fredrik Meltzer, featured a red field with a blue cross, similar to the current flag. However, it wasn't officially adopted at that time. In 1825, the Union Mark was added to the flag to symbolize the union with Sweden. The Union Mark was a blue square in the upper left corner of the flag, containing the Swedish and Norwegian coats of arms side by side. This design was used until the dissolution of the union in 1905. After Norway gained independence from the union with Sweden in 1905, the Union Mark was removed, and the flag adopted its present form. The red background represents the blood and sacrifice of the people, the blue cross signifies Norway's link to other Scandinavian countries, and the white border around the cross represents the country's commitment to peace. The Norwegian flag has since become a symbol of national identity and pride, and it is displayed on various occasions, including national holidays and events. And more often so for joyous reasons, instead of well...nationalistic ones. If you have any plans waving a Norwegian flag around while being here, please to take notice of the flag etiquette as states in the Norwegian flag law. Here are some key points: Respectful Treatment: The Norwegian flag should be treated with respect and dignity. It should not be used for inappropriate or offensive purposes. Correct Usage: The proportions and colors of the flag should be in accordance with official specifications. The red color should be a specific shade known as "Norwegian Red," and the blue cross should be a darker blue. Flag Position: When displayed with other flags, the Norwegian flag should be given a place of honor. It is customary to raise the Norwegian flag first and lower it last when displayed with other flags. Half-mast: The flag should be flown at half-mast as a sign of mourning. The decision to lower the flag is typically made by the government and may be done in the event of the death of a prominent figure or a national tragedy. Flag Burning: Burning the Norwegian flag is generally not illegal, but it is considered highly disrespectful. It is not a common or accepted form of protest in Norway. Commercial Use: The flag can be used for commercial purposes, but it should not be defaced or used in a manner that is disrespectful. Private Use: Individuals are free to display the flag on their private property. There are no strict regulations governing the use of the flag by private citizens, as long as it is done with respect.

  • Destination: Hardanger highlights; puppy-love and the Hardanger Fjord Lodge

    Let me confide in you with a secret. The initial time I stepped foot in Norway, I found myself madly in love. Yes, undoubtedly, with the awe-inspiring landscapes and cherry blossoms, but also with a captivating young lady. At 18, in the throes of naivety, still mentally a child, as is the way with most young men of that age; it was what they call puppy love. Yet, in that moment, it felt authentic. As time passed, that enchantment waned, but my fondness for Norway endured, truly blossoming in and around the Hardangerfjord. The allure of the beauty and expansiveness left an indelible mark, drawing me back time and again. I won't endeavour to present an exhaustive list due to the sheer magnitude, but I do wish to offer insights to enrich your exploration of this magnificent region. Allow me the liberty of promptly acquainting you with the most enchanting lodging along the fjord coast. Let me commence by detailing the setting. Nestled along a narrow road, typical of the Norwegian fjords, this hotel in the diminutive village of Mauranger, boasting fewer than 30 houses, discreetly houses a world-class establishment. It's a well-kept secret, and you might inadvertently pass by; there's no sign or arrow, ensuring only those with a genuine desire stay. My emotions are stirred as I attempt to capture this place in words. Upon entering, meticulous attention to detail becomes apparent. The hues on the walls, floor tiles, furniture, and materials exhibit a sophisticated nonchalance. This initial impression permeates every facet, from the cuisine, where the attention to detail rivals no hotel chain, to the overall experience. I boldly assert, without hesitation, that this is the most characterful accommodation along the entire Hardangerfjord. When embarking from Bergen to explore the fjords, one owes it to all of Hardanger to revel in Norwegian hospitality at its zenith. Secure a night at the Hardanger Fjord Lodge; it promises to imprint a positive memory on your Norwegian journey and is a tribute to dedicated individuals infusing energy and love into such places. The surrounding area offers plenty of activities; consider a scenic walk through Bondhusdalen to the azure blue glacier lakes further down the valley. Another highlight on your traverse through Hardangerfjorden is Rosendal, a comprehensive experience offering aristocratic allure, a splendid rose garden, a classical music festival, a quaint café, and the prospect of overnight stays. Providing historical context, Baroniet Rosendal was a singular barony in Kvinnherad, Vestland, established in 1678 by King Christian V of Denmark-Norway. Completed in 1665, the castle now serves as a living museum, offering tours, concerts, lectures, theater, art exhibitions, accommodation, and catering. In a nutshell, the estate, a bequest of affluent nobility, invites a delightful afternoon. Rarely have I encountered such a splendid collection of roses, and a '60s Jaguar E-type in the parking lot provides testament to the refined taste of the clientele, a realm I, despite my humble apartment and wornout Mazda 3, am delighted to join. Oh, and one can spend the night here too. For those eager to conquer a fear of heights, a stylish method presents itself. In 2016, architect Carl-Viggo Hølmebakk unveiled a spectacular design, offering a breathtaking view of the immense Vøringsfossen and inducing a thrill with a narrow bridge over a vast chasm. Admitting to a modicum of acrophobia, not sufficient to deter me from traversing such bridges but ample to grip the railing and savor the panorama with a knot in my stomach. Yet, it's the epitome of waterfalls, and Hølmebek's design is nothing short of breathtaking. A must-stop on the descent from Hardangervidda, particularly in autumn when the softer light and yellowing birch trees in the lower valley enhance the experience. It's one of those places worthy of a spot on your bucket list. Curiously absent from my discourse is Trolltunga, and that's by design. I find it somewhat overrated. Undoubtedly, the vista is spectacular, and the protruding rock offers an opportunity for a picturesque Instagram photo. However, the wait of half an hour, orchestrated by around 40 influencers taking a fair amount of time while diligently positioning their back-ends into the best angle for a modest Instagram following, seems contrary to the essence of a visit to Norway. Let's skip that, shall we? The true allure lies in locally produced fare, and Hardanger, in particular, is a fecund source of an array of fruits and dairy products. Exceptional apple cider and cheese are crafted here. Spildegaarden, for instance, offers a glass of ice-cold apple cider and a delectable lunch in the spring sun. The lovely hostesses / owners greet you with a generous smile and a heavy Norwegian accent. Besides Spildegaarden there are numerous gems along the Hardanger Fjord that beckon exploration of locally produced drinks and food, too many to enumerate. Maybe read my article I wrote previously on farm shops, consult the map, and chart your course. Heit Sauna Sørfjorden extends an invitation to a steaming sauna and a rejuvenating fjord bath. From my vantage as an experienced hiker, nothing surpasses the delight of unwinding muscles in a sauna with a panoramic view of the fjord, mountains, and snow-capped peaks after a day in the open. The sauna, perched at the quay's edge, offers a captivating panorama. A sauna master warmly greets you, ensuring the sauna radiates warmth. The Finnish-designed sauna stove, fired with wood, complements the experience. It's a bit of a rite of passage to take a dip in the icy fjord water. After a few immersions, a peculiar equilibrium is reached, and the demarcation between warmth and cold becomes imperceptible. A uniquely invigorating and almost transcendental encounter; reservations are prudent as this spot garners popularity. For an exceptional dining experience, securing a table at Buer is imperative. Nestled in a narrow valley with a glacier view, its remote location metaphorically mirrors Buer's distinction as the premier restaurant in the entire Hardanger region. Helmed by a proficient chef from Voss and attended by a charming Danish waitress, it's an unequivocal recommendation! Here, a distinctive and thoughtful fusion of wine and dishes unfolds. The ambiance is warm, and each staff member radiates enthusiasm. The presentation and flavor of the dishes here truly attain world-class status. If the urge for dining out strikes, do yourself a favor and reserve a table at Buer. A commendable performance! As a parting gift, consider an idyllic tip for complete relaxation during an overnight stay. Christel and Sverre now offer a diminutive 'lookout box,' affording a splendid view through the trees onto the Hardangerfjord. Beyond being exceptional hosts, it's a quaint retreat, unassuming and exclusively yours. And everything is there, squirls included! Jolly charming alltogether! As previously noted, an attempt to encapsulate the entirety of the Hardanger Fjord in a single blog post would be ambitious (understatement). Expect more articles detailing specific places along the fjord. My objective is not exhaustiveness; rather, it's to furnish original tips to check of some of the Hardanger highlight for an enchanting trip through this gorgeous area. And do share your encounters with me. I'm on Instagram and LinkedIn. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive at Bergen Flesland Airport (BGO). From there public transport is a bit of a challenging way to explore Hardanger properly, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Language: learning the easiest language in the world; how to say thank you in Norwegian

    I frequently host friends from overseas, and inevitably, the perennial question arises as we venture into town: 'how do I say ... (thank you)... in Norwegian?' For the true language enthusiasts, Innovative Language promises a fast-track towards considerable fluency in just three months. Remarkably, for English speakers, this journey is often swifter than anticipated, given that a significant array of English words traces its origins back to Old Norse, yes, that's right! We have a lot in common. For those not inclined towards linguistic pursuits and disinclined to ascend their Norwegian proficiency to a B1 level, keep reading. The typical Norwegian, with few exceptions among the boomer generation, converses fluently in English and exhibits an extraordinary willingness to assist when asked. Hence, responding to popular demand, it is fun to read a bit on etiquette and expressions. This knowledge might serve as a source of personal pride when a Norwegian graciously points you towards the nearest coffee establishment and you can thank them for doing so. Let us set off: "Hei!" The 'Hi' salutation is applicable throughout the day, whether addressing the mayor, the doctor, or a cherished companion. It's all fine. "God dag!" A more formal greeting, reserved for daylight hours. For instance, I employ it during visits to my girlfriend's grandmother, recognizing that older individuals often place a premium on courtesy—an inclination I share, despite not yet reaching the status of seniority. "God morgen!" A simple expression meaning 'good morning'. The temporal boundaries are somewhat nebulous, yet I refrain from its usage after 11 am, using it only after if it concernes my girlfriend, with a coiffure disheveled from a night of on town, emerges from her slumber around noon. "God kveld!" This way of saying 'Good evening' carries a touch formality. I use it when meeting my girlfriends grandmother for example. The elderly often appreciate a bit etiquette. "Takk!" This is how to say thank you in Norwegian. Expressed for a myriad of occasions, gratitude extends to having your coffee served to you, the polite declination or acceptance of an offer (Nei, takk; ja takk), or acknowledgment of a (not so very personal) compliment. "Tusen takk!" This one you use in profound gratitude as it translates as 'a thousand thanks), whether in the sprint for a bus where the driver kindly waits or upon receipt of an exceptional gift, this phrase is the on the use. "Mange takk!" A refined variant of the foregoing translating as 'many thanks', nuanced and elegant, though regrettably a bit old fashioned. But that's how I like it. Nevertheless, as a tourist, you might gain some bonus points here! "Takk for hjelpen!" Norwegians, are known for their strong willingness to help out. Be it a lift to the next village, directional guidance, or clarification of a puzzling matter, their seamless transition to English is met with an immediate commitment to sort you out. Thus, it behooves you to extend your gratitude in Norwegian. So preparing yourself by mastering the phrase 'takk for hjelpen' (thank you for helping) will pay off. And as mentioned before, you're not that far off from learning Norwegian quickly as an English speaker. Much of it you'll already understand while reading. So might as well give it a try, right? Why not test and try a little bit.

  • Stay: the hotel in Oslo that isn’t a hotel, but is still a hotel but also isn’t; Numa Stays

    Close to the heart of Oslo (or close to the royal heart of Oslo at least) there exists a unique kind of lodging that defies convention. Numa Stays Oslo. It's not your typical hotel, yet it embodies the essence of one, all while remaining remarkably budget-friendly. Join me as we dellllllllve into this intriguing concept. It may seem as though I've gone to great lengths to craft a title that's as complex as can be, and indeed, that's true. However, it was the only way to describe the hotel I'm about to discuss in this post. And here's why. I've become rather selective when it comes to accommodation. While I occasionally opt for hotels for sheer convenience, my inclination has shifted towards a different preference. What I truly desire is a comfortable bed, a clean room, and the flexibility to make my own choices. To some extent, Airbnb fulfils these desires, but all too often, it comes with host-related hassles and uncertainties about room conditions. Moreover, there's the matter of breakfast – a pivotal aspect of my travels. It's not that continental hotel breakfasts aren't good; it's just that I firmly believe that food plays an indispensable role in shaping one's experience of a destination. I yearn to sample a myriad of flavors, being a devoted enthusiast of delectable bread and dainty treats. Therefore, my ideal morning involves venturing out for breakfast and a cup of coffee at a place that resonates with me. And that's precisely what you can do excellently in Oslo – curate your own breakfast experience. If you share my sentiments, then I have an exceptional recommendation for you: Numa Stays. The affordable hotel concept is elegantly simple – self-check-in via a mobile app, generously spacious and tastefully designed studio’s, and an ambiance free from the clamor of fellow hotel guests. These 'hotel' rooms are discreetly scattered throughout the city, though they typically find their home in some of Oslo's most distinguished neighbourhoods. This is a noteworthy feat, considering that square meter prices in these areas are often exorbitant, making it challenging to establish a any viable hotel of any kind. For instance, in Oslo's Urianienborg, you can find studios for approximately 160 euros / dollars / whatever coin you use per night, a bargain considering this is one of the city's most sophisticated districts, housing numerous embassies and showcasing an impressive array of street-parked Porsches. It's important to note that the appeal of Numa Stays extends beyond the luxurious neighbourhoods. These areas offer serene nights, as well as a plethora of charming local and off-the-beaten-path restaurants, coffee shops, and boutiques. Before we conclude, allow me to recommend the best-situated studio – one that lies in close proximity to the Royal Palace, within walking distance of the city centre and Majorstuen. You can book your Numa Stay here. Oh and one more thing, pets are allowed! So bring your furry, scaly or feathery friend if you please. After you've woken up wonderfully in your Numa hotel, it's time for a fantastic breakfast. You find yourself in the heart of one of the capital's most elegant neighborhoods. Surrounded by stately townhouses and beautiful apartment buildings from the late 19th century, you can stroll to Oslo Raw in less than 5 minutes. You can confidently consider this one of the best places in Oslo for breakfast. And, as you might imagine, most mere mortals have their breakfast at home. Therefore, it won't surprise you that the clientele here is, well, quite unique. It's mostly young people, dressed in expensive attire, who somehow manage to look like they've just returned from a holiday all year round. But don't let superficial appearances distract you. You're here for a good breakfast. Oslo Raw opens its doors at 9 AM on weekdays and 10 AM on weekends. They pull out all the stops, serving everything from oatmeal to turmeric lattes and chaga hot cocoa. This establishment offers delectable vegan and predominantly healthy fare, making it perfect for those seeking a nutritious start to their day. On the menu, you'll find acai bowls, coconut yogurt, wraps, avocado toast, and Belgian waffles. Do indulge in a smoothie and a "savory waffle" featuring beet hummus, avocado, and pickled red onion – an exquisite treat. Here are a few more recommendations within walking distance if you're staying in Frogner or Uranienborg: The most renowned park in Oslo: Frogner Parken. A lengthy shopping street boasting numerous charming boutiques: Bogstadveien. An exceptional wine bar and an equally outstanding restaurant: Cru. The bar at Hotel Sommerro. There's often live jazzzzzzzzzz there.

  • Music: one handshake away from Miles Davis; how I got starstruck in retrospect

    You may have come across some of my writings, and I certainly hope that you have. Now and then, I take the liberty of hoping that my words have found their way to your discerning eyes. If that's indeed the case, then you're probably aware of my deep affection for the melodious tunes of jazz and the lesser-known gems hidden within the intricate labyrinth of musical genres. Let me not lay any grand claim that jazz is an obscure art form (which it absolutely isn't), but it's fair to say that some consider it a refined taste, an acquired appreciation, if you will. Now, let's flip through the pages of my life's recent chapter: my journey from the bustling canals of Amsterdam to the serene embrace of Kristiansand. To be entirely honest, my knowledge of this newfound haven was as shallow as a wisp of morning mist. Before my move, Kristiansand was just a name on a map, a place I had only visited once for a job interview. I was stepping into a blank canvas, intentionally so. Sure, I had read up a bit about it, but the perilous condition known as "analysis paralysis" had taken root in my mind. When you overthink things, your intuition tends to fade away. The pros and cons pile up until they become an impenetrable wall, making decisions an elusive pursuit. Let's keep this story concise. The revelation that awaited me in Kristiansand was nothing short of remarkable. Equally astonishing was the day when, after my first night in this new territory, I ventured into the modest town and discovered elegantly designed posters announcing an upcoming music festival. This extraordinary event was a showcase of artists I had long admired. My excitement knew no bounds. However, here comes a confession: my financial situation at that time was far from rosy. The expenses of my move and the unexpected salary delays due to an administrative maze had left me in a dire financial state. You can probably picture it now. Buying a festival ticket seemed like a distant dream. On that first day, though, I was blissfully unaware of the delayed salary, so I impulsively purchased a weekend pass. Fast forward three weeks, and the much-anticipated moment had arrived. Eivind Aarset, Nils Petter Molvær, Jan Bang, Arve Henriksen, and other virtuosos were about to grace the stage, and I was overflowing with excitement. The details of the first concert have faded with time, but the memory of the final performance remains vivid. It was a live remix, a musical feat where two performances merged seamlessly. A curious concept, indeed. Sitting next to me was a cheerful woman, clearly savoring every note. Our conversation's origins are a bit hazy now, but it began with mutual curiosity about our presence there. We exchanged jokes and playful banter until the next musical piece commanded our attention. After the final notes, we introduced ourselves. "I'm Marylin," she said, "a percussionist." My response, a mix of curiosity and anticipation, was, "Will we have the pleasure of witnessing your percussion skills on stage tonight?" Alas, she humbly shared that she wouldn't be performing that evening but regaled me with stories of the illustrious artists she had collaborated with. The next concert and live remix on the same stage marked the end of our conversation as the audience dispersed. Later, I found myself at Vaktbua, a cozy café hosting an afterparty. Once again, I was surrounded by luminaries, as nearly all the festival's artists were in attendance. What followed was a lavish soirée filled with dance and drinks. At a point when Norwegian law dictated the end of alcohol service, the party migrated once more. By then, I had struck up a conversation with a Czech journalist, who happened to have an invitation to this new destination. To keep things brief, I was invited to join them. This time, our destination was a spacious underground venue beneath Dronningsgate. Its ambiance was more reminiscent of a lively tavern than a typical underground setting. Drinks flowed freely, food was served, and the room buzzed with virtuoso musicians. My memories of that night are a bit fuzzy, but it suffices to say that it was a splendid evening that solidified my sense of belonging in my new city. The following morning, I woke up with a substantial hangover. As I strolled along Bystranda, the city's beachfront haven, I found myself delving into the depths of the internet. Suddenly, the memory of the lively woman I had met resurfaced. Her name had momentarily slipped my mind but soon returned. In a world abundant with talented female percussionists, the name "Marylin" isn't exactly common. Remarkably, I swiftly located her, confirming her collaborations with musical giants like Miles Davis, Wayne Shorter, and Jan Garbarek. She was even the only woman to have graced Miles Davis's band. Once again, I was struck with awe, though this time, it was tinged with the remnants of a hangover, against the backdrop of a city completely foreign to me. That very afternoon, the festival's final series of concerts began. I didn't cross paths with Marylin again, but by then, I had fallen head over heels for the eccentric yet enchanting world of PUNKT. I embarked on two more visits to this extraordinary festival, each time indulging in a captivating tapestry of musical wonders. Punkt caters to a niche of musicians and enthusiasts dedicated to the spontaneity and virtuosity of musical expression. The atmosphere it creates is nothing short of magical. As a fervent music lover, I feel compelled to champion the remarkable artists whose talents, while interconnected within the musical sphere, often elude the broader public's awareness. If you have even a modicum of affection for music, I implore you to experience this splendid festival at least once in your lifetime, complemented by the manifold pleasures and amusements that Kristiansand has to offer. You can find more details in the accompanying article I wrote earlier. And, of course, I couldn't resist curating a modest little Spotify playlist to offer you a glimpse of the auditory tapestry that awaits (or eludes) you at the Punkt festival. To Jan Bang, if you happen to come across this, you are a hero! And to Nils P. Molvær, if by some chance you read this, rest assured that if I meet my end, "Alone in the Bathtub" will be played at the ceremony—twice.

  • Eat: the Royal navy had no clue (updated 25.09.2023)

    The word 'Dass' is a somewhat rude way to describe a toilet in Norwegian. And that's what hangs above the toilet door in bright letters. However, that doesn't set the tone for what awaits you here. It's in fact quite the opposite. But it does indicate that things are laid-back around here. The service is absolutely perfect, mind you, and strictly adheres to etiquette, but it's carried out by a hip dude wearing a cap, complicated sneakers, Berlin-ish retro glasses, and matching mustache. That's the kind of vibe you should have in mind. I reckon El Brutus is, in a way, a place for discerning palates who aren't afraid of surprises. The first time (out of four) I dined at Brutus (now it's El Brutus) left an impression. They had Icelandic pancakes (blibber-blabber-kakur), whale tartare, and something with beetroots on the menu. The dishes and the combination with the chosen wines can best be described as being tickled in a way that you can't possibly sit still. And in my case, that's a huge compliment. The portions are small but they make an impact with their simplicity and bold flavors. Nothing is what it seems, as the menu describes the dishes rather vaguely. But that's what makes it awesome. Don't expect any pretentious Barolo's or heavy-handed Bordeaux wines here, but rather obscure natural wines sourced from tiny vineyards on an island that not even Columbus, the Royal Navy, or NASA knew about. I've eaten there three more times afterwards, and I'll surely do it again. Especially since they've now changed their name from Brutus to El Brutus. I guess this is the most exiting winebar in Oslo. And then I haven't even tasted their newly presented Spanish menu. Anyway... Habla español to me cool-looking-waiter! *Update 25.09.2023: We tried El Brutus, the Spanish take on what once was just Brutus. Flavours were 'ok', the wine great. But perhaps it was the potent combination of inflation, rising interest rates, and increasing wage costs that necessitated the rather hefty pricing of the dishes. A small plate of cauliflower, for instance, cost around 180 NOK. That together with a rather 'blank' and uncommitted waiter, made that things didn't really add up in my head. So, I don't really know what to say...because I would love to be as lyrical as I was the first time I had dinner at Brutus. But it just...it didn't add up.

  • Clothes: bric-a-brac

    Recently, I found myself falling from one astonishment to the next in rapid succession. Allow me to recount the experience. I was strolling through 'Løkka,' en route to either drop something off or retrieve it—I can't quite recall. Somewhere in the vicinity of O’Reillys Irish bar, much to my surprise, I beheld a second-hand store that I must have passed by at least 15 times before. This revelation says far more about my own observance than the store itself. I speak from experience. I'm selectively blind. Upon descending the stairs, I found myself in a sequence of peculiar cellar spaces, each brimming with the most marvelous and eccentric assortment of items imaginable. From sculptures to vintage posters and curious lamps, the collection was nothing short of captivating. Moreover, there was a considerable abundance of peculiar clothing items: overalls, dungarees, and eccentric dresses. The establishment is run by a Frenchman, and I strongly suspect that he occasionally takes a voyaaaaage to France in his Citroen H, topping off his van with curiosities to astonish guys like myself. Had my home not already been replete with an abundance of bric-a-brac, I would undoubtedly have made a plethora of purchases. God forbid! Keep in mind that you might need to make some space in your suitcase if you decide to indulge in this treasure trove. Check out his store ask: 'ca va?'

  • Music: during the cold months

    The winters are quite long here. Meaning it's dark and cold from October until April. And exactly because of that, the cultural offerings during those months are immense, and that's precisely why a visit to Norway in November or December is not a bad idea at all. It's cozy, intimate, and magical around this time of year. If you decide to come to Norway during the cold months, there's one thing you absolutely must do, and that is to buy a ticket for a Christmas concert. During the dark months before Christmas, there are Christmas concerts happening every week in all major cities. And this can range from jazz and classical to pop and rock. Both renowned and up-and-coming artists slightly adjust their repertoire and perform concerts in the most extraordinary venues. Think of churches, chapels, museums and barns. A few years ago, for instance, just before Christmas, I went with my sister and her husband to a concert by Silje Nergaard in one of the smaller intimate churches in Oslo. Not only do you feel like a part of the local life in this way, but you also experience music in a very special and magical setting, with lots of candlelight, fresh snow, and the scent of cinnamon and hot chocolate. First and foremost, it's important to find a Christmas concert that suits your taste. Use 'Julekonsert' as a search term on Ticketmaster and see what's available. It might be handy to have Spotify at hand so that you can listen to a repertoire in advance because you will undoubtedly come across artists you've never heard of before. Once you've found something, buy your ticket. Don't wait too long, as these concerts consistently sell out. My favorite: the Christmas concerts 'It's snowing on my piano' by jazz pianist Bugge Wesseltoft (NO).

  • Transport: how to travel in Norway; planes, trains and electric automobiles

    Embarking on a Norwegian adventure often feels like navigating a puzzle due to the vastness of the country. Picture this: you'd like to immerse yourself in the vibrant energy of Oslo, a yearning to witness the beauty of the west coast's fjords, and you've watched countless insta reels, tempting you to explore the enchanting island of Senja. The ticking clock suggests time will force you to compromise, but allow me to introduce a more nuanced perspective. Planes and trains Let me start with an example. Your journey begins with a plane touching down in Oslo, a city that beckons you to linger for a few days, for good reason. Yet, the allure of Bergen calls, and a flight seems the swiftest course of action—undeniably true. But ponder the actual time siphoned by air travel. Thirty minutes from Oslo to the airport, a luggage check-in dance ideally performed 2 hours before liftoff, a one-hour flight to Bergen, and an additional 40 minutes from Bergen's airport to its city centre. A grand total of approximately 4.5 hours from hotel doorstep to hotel doorstep, or realistically, a journey spanning 5.5 hours. A timeframe not filled with noteworthy sights but rather with anticipatory waiting, be it in airport lounges or the confines of an aircraft. For this escapade, I would recommend to explore the possibility of a train journey. Not necessarily to gain time, but to spend that otherwise lost time in quality. Imagine, instead of languishing in an airport, being ensconced in a train carriage, gazing upon the mesmerizing Norwegian panorama from the comfort of a plush seat, coffee in hand, and WiFi at your fingertips. The train voyage from Oslo to Bergen, a legendary odyssey, perennially gracing top 10 lists of awe-inspiring train journeys. My inaugural journey had me, for about 6 hours, glued to the window in complete awe of the passing scenery. A nugget of wisdom: reserve a seat facing left in the driving direction. As you traverse past Finse, you'll be treated to the spectacle of Hardangerjøkulen, a breathtaking glacier. Seven hours on the train, a mere two hours longer than the airborne alternative, but seven hours spent in fruitful contemplation. Secure your train tickets at VY well in advance, for this sought-after journey tends to sell out far in advance. Should the skies beckon, book your flight here. Electric automobiles Should the siren song of exploration guide you to traverse the entirety of this land, planes become an inevitability. Senja's allure, for instance, mandates a flight to Narvik. But what then? Enter the Norwegian crucible of electric driving, where frequent charging stations are a given. I propose the contemplation of an electric vehicle. Beyond the serenity of their silent hum, the economics are quite obvious. Last week's petrol and diesel prices flirted with 25NOK per liter (which is more or less equal to $2,50), a steep investment if you're considering a small road trip. In contrast, charging a Polestar 2 comes at about 150NOK, propelling you 500km. The equivalent petrol journey demands a purse 10 times heavier. The moral is clear. Should the whispers of a road trip already stir within, I advise you to reserve an electric car as soon as you have a rough idea of your itinerary. The high season depletes the electric car reservoir at most rental companies, and an early reservation ensures the exact car for your journey, often with a fair period for reconsideration. A word on acquiring a vehicular rental at an airport: not all 'airstrips' boast car rental services. Opt for the slightly more endowed airports, where a car hire awaits amidst the control towers and runways. Behold, the following aviation havens extend this convenience: Oslo Gardermoen Airport (OSL), Bergen Flesland Airport (BGO), Stavanger Sola Airport (SVG), Trondheim Værnes Airport (TRD), Tromsø Langnes Airport (TOS), Kristiansand Kjevik Airport (KRS), Ålesund Vigra Airport (AES), Bodø Airport (BOO), Sandefjord Torp Airport (TRF), Molde Årø Airport (MOL), Harstad/Narvik Airport (EVE), Haugesund Karmøy Airport (HAU), Evenes Airport (EVE). Public Transport Much of your sojourn can be orchestrated with the finesse of public transportation, particularly within cities boasting stellar transit networks. Oslo's metro, a masterpiece in motion, even elevates you to Frognerseteren, one of the city's pinnacles, affording a regal view of fjord and city. To navigate this symphony, wield the ENTUR app—an oracle of nationwide timetables offering an array of choices. Occasionally, this app may lead you to other maestros, prompting the purchase of tickets through a different melody. Fear not, for clarity prevails. Prepare for your venture with the anticipation of these downloadable overtures: - VY (bus and train) - ENTUR (travel planner, ticket sales) - Widerøe (serving the smaller airports) - Norwegian Air Shuttle (conducting flights to larger airports) - SAS (orchestrating most routes between larger airports) How to travel in Norway is truly is up to each individual to decide how they wish to shape their journey. However, these are your key tools to make your trip unforgettable and enjoyable. Godspeed!

  • Destination: what the kids think; art in Oslo

    I have fortunately enjoyed a considerable amount of art education through my studies, which has fostered a natural inclination towards art in various forms of expression. However, it sometimes triggers a strong adverse reaction when I find myself in a gallery contemplating yet another pile of polyurethane foam that purportedly symbolizes the artists challenging childhood in a wealthy Western city. Of course, the numerous museums in Norway are truly worthwhile. Honestly, when in Oslo I implore you to visit the Nasjonal Museet and spend an entire day there. Nevertheless, to put it all into perspective, the International Museum of Children's Art in Oslo serves as a splendid antidote. The immense collection of (international) works is overwhelming and often deeply moving. Almost daily, I am convinced that we should listen more to children to refine our standards and values. Embarking on a visit to this remarkable museum is a good starting point, as it is far from childish. It showcases artwork from children worldwide, and there is often a special exhibition dedicated to a current theme. An admission ticket costs a mere 75NOK, so there's no reason to abstain on that account.

  • Eat: spend your money wisely; cheap food in Norway

    It may be the case that you hail from a region where money holds a different value, or perhaps you are a student on an exchange program. Or like me, you live here and you still consider everything to be outrageously expensive. But you can get your hands on cheap food in Norway. And I am delighted to provide you with some tips on how to easily and enjoyably save on food expenses. The very first tip pertains to supermarkets, particularly Coop and Meny. In nearly all cases, they have a refrigerated section where products nearing their expiration dates are offered at a significant discount. Everything from milk to vegetables, and from meat to fish. Saturdays, especially towards the end of the afternoon, present the best opportunity to purchase excellent items at a 40-70% reduction. Whether you are backpacking or embarking on a camper adventure, it is worth stocking up here. Seeking something a tad pricier? Then pay a visit to Jacobs. It is an exceedingly expensive supermarket, but it boasts an exceptional and extensive selection of seafood. Due to this very reason, there is always an excess that is sold at a substantial discount. One of my personal favorites is Toogoodtogo. What began as an idealistic Danish notion to rescue food from demise has now grown into an extensive network of restaurants, supermarkets, bakeries, and petrol stations that often offer food products at greatly reduced prices towards the end of the day. Here is how it works: You download the Toogoodtogo app and grant it access to your phone's location. Subsequently, you can peruse the nearby establishments offering discounted items. Personally, I am particularly fond of the somewhat pricier bakeries. Suddenly, for around 50 kroner, you find yourself in possession of a delectable sourdough bread, a few cinnamon rolls, and perhaps even some ready made sandwiches. You never quite know what you will receive, but rest assured, it will be more than sufficient for your breakfast the following morning. Since you can often collect your surprise bag at the end of the business day, it is important to arrive on time. However, such details are usually clearly indicated within the app. Another tip: Purchase directly from farmers. Especially in the summertime, Norway becomes somewhat of a food factory. For example when driving through Hardanger, you will encounter a fruit or vegetable stall approximately every 300 meters. The charming aspect is that most of these stalls are unattended. You can freely select whatever catches your fancy, and often, payment is made by placing some money into a mailbox. Therefore, it is advisable to always carry a small amount of change with you. Additionally, you can often find other items such as honey, jam, eggs, and other specialties at these farms. If you come across a sign saying "Gårdsbutikk," it is nearly always worthwhile to take the swing and explore what is on sale. Do your grocery shopping at Asian, Arab, or Turkish supermarkets. They frequently offer an impressive range of fresh produce and are generally considerably cheaper than regular supermarkets. Why? Because they do not have a management team earning a hefty sum each year, nor do they use any funds on marketing. My personal favourite is Real Frukt & Grønt located in Grønland here in Oslo.

  • Clothes: your jacket is your home when visiting Norway; where to buy the best one

    In my younger years, I took pride in sailing a small open boat. It was a passion that captivated me for several years. During each summer, I dedicated four full weeks of hard work to cover the expenses for maintenance and mooring. Whenever I had a brief moment of respite, I seized the opportunity to embark on my boat. Time was a precious commodity, which meant I wouldn't let unpredictable weather deter me. It was common for storm warnings to be issued, rain to fall like poetic droplets, or for the wind to remain absent. Yet, these uncertainties didn't faze me; I felt at one with the water. A sense of peaceful wanderlust filled my thoughts, and the essence of freedom was almost palpable. I dressed appropriately, guided by the whispered advice of weather forecasts, and set sail without hesitation. Now residing in Norway, I frequently rekindle that past euphoria. Regardless of the thermometer plunging to 10 degrees or the raucous cries of stormy skies, even if the landscape is blanketed in cloudiness, my heart yearns to explore the outdoors and relive the liberating sensation akin to my time on the sailboat. This passion for endless exploration thrives due to the remarkable clothing I possess. There's hardly anything to hinder my adventures, no matter the prevailing conditions. If you're considering a stay in Norway lasting several weeks, being prepared to face a range of weather variations is crucial. While sunny rays and clear skies may fortuitously grace your stay, the opposite is just as likely, with consecutive weeks of clouds and rain. Caution should guard against the intrusion of harsh weather during your visit. At the forefront of your readiness should be a dependable jacket. Though this might sound obvious, it warrants emphasis, given the number of travellers caught off guard by fickle mountain weather. Five years ago, I bestowed upon myself a great favour by acquiring a high-quality jacket. When I say 'good', I mean a jacket with these key features: An outer layer that repels wind and moisture, coupled with an insulated inner layer that envelopes you in warmth, retaining your body's heat. Importantly, these two layers must be separable, allowing for adaptability. Hence, in warm rain, you wear the waterproof outer layer; in cold rain, both layers cocoon you. This apparent simplicity holds great significance, for even the simplest hike can subject you to a sudden temperature drop of up to 15 degrees due to weather shifts and altitude changes. As the saying goes, 'four seasons in a day'. This sentiment resonates through my personal experiences. So, whether your journey involves rustic escapes or urban adventures, ensure such a jacket finds a place in your luggage. Bear in mind that, when you step onto Norwegian soil, your jacket becomes a sanctuary – a reliable bulwark against nature's whims. Allow me to offer guidance on obtaining the ultimate choice. I personally think the best jacket to buy when visiting Norway is one from Norrøna. They are by far the best manufacturers on the market. With a rich legacy in crafting outdoor apparel, this brand hails proudly from the Norwegian landscape, adding an extra layer of charm to their offerings. While it may necessitate a modest financial commitment, ponder the enduring value it will bestow, a companion for the entirety of your lifetime. Regard it as an extension of your home, a cocoon of comfort and protection.

  • Stay: a medieval tavern for pilgrims in Gudbrandsdalen

    When driving along the Kingsroad through Gudbrandsdalen, it's difficult not to succumb to a kind of gently sweet daydream about rural romance. That sentiment is both justified and unjustified. Life was once impoverished and harsh around here, with agriculture and forestry as the only modest economic activities. But times have changed. Especially in the summer, the landscape takes on a picturesque charm. The association with romance and nostalgia is now fitting. Particularly when you turn right or left (depending on the direction of travel) and make your way down the long driveway to Sygard Grytting. This is one of Norway's oldest surviving farms, with a history that reaches deep into the Middle Ages. It was the place where pilgrims traveling from Oslo to Trondheim could find lodging. And so can we, although our purpose may be slightly less noble nowadays. I believe this is your only opportunity in Norway to spend the night in a medieval inn. Additionally, traditional food is served here. If you're not yet convinced, take a look and book your stay. I promise you won't regret it. Have you spent all your money on great food from 'gårdsbutikker'? Then consider a slightly more affordable stay in an Arctic Dome. But do pay a visit to Sygard Grytting anyway. **Getting there: it is most likely you'll arrive either at Oslo Airport (OSL). Public transport really takes forever to get you there, so it is most wise to reserve a car in advance. Since Norway has one of the best fast-charging networks in the world, I would advise you to rent an electric car. Better for the environment, cheaper to charge and it gets you everywhere. Check here for availability.

  • Eat: if you see shrimp on the menu in Norway, order them. But not before you've read this.

    The Norwegians possess a profound affinity for all that emerges from the sea: crabs, cod, and more. This predilection is hardly surprising when one considers that the world's finest fishing waters lie just off the coast of Norway. Especially near Senja's shores, the fish almost leap into your lap (slight exaggeration, but not by much). If you're a seafood enthusiast or enjoy angling for it, I recommend perusing my earlier article on Senja. Nevertheless, I digress slightly. A firm favorite among Norwegians, shrimp grace the menus of many a quaint eatery and seafood restaurant. Even on private terraces, boats, or piers, they constitute a customary ritual throughout the summer. However, this can occasionally bewilder tourists. You expect to order a shrimp dish, and you receive a mound of unpeeled shrimp, a few slices of bread, some mayonnaise, and a couple of lemon wedges. But once you're in the know, it all becomes clear. Picture a sun-drenched day in July. You're seated at a seaside terrace, with an ice-cold beer or a glass of Riesling in front of you, indulging in colossal, freshly-caught shrimp. There's truly nothing better in that moment. But how to eat to eat shrimp in Norway? That's what I'm about to tell you and prepare you to not be caught off guard when that platter of unpealed shrimp is placed before you. So, you might wonder, how does one proceed? Firstly, take a slice of bread and spread it with a touch of mayonnaise or aioli, as per your preference. Add a pinch of pepper to taste. Then, embark on the delicate task of peeling the shrimp. Begin by pressing with two fingers just behind the head; once it detaches, place it in a dish for the shells. Next, start at the belly of the shrimp and gently remove the remaining shell. Repeat this process about 15 times until your bread slice is generously adorned. Sprinkle a bit of lemon over it, order another glass of wine, and you're ready to enjoy your meal. Shrimp often grace the menus of many simpler eateries and brasseries, but there's no need to limit yourself to restaurants. What's even more enjoyable is purchasing shrimp on your own, preferably directly from a fisherman. This is often possible in smaller coastal towns. It may not be prominently advertised, but inquire with a local Norwegian, and you'll likely receive an excellent tip on which fisherman is arriving at the harbor and whether they've caught any shrimp. There are even entire WhatsApp and Telegram groups where nearly the entire village is a member of, sharing announcements of available fish or shrimp. If all of this sounds too complex, you can always buy individual shrimp. For two hearty eaters, a kilogram is often more than sufficient. Just be sure to choose fresh, not frozen shrimp. So, if you see shrimp on the menu in Norway, order them. This summer for example, I found myself in Narvik, a town not particularly renowned for its culinary culture. However, it boasts a "fiskehallen" (fish market) where you can truly acquire the very best shrimp. There's also an adjacent seafood restaurant that is absolutely worth a visit. If you find yourself in Narvik, make it your lunch destination—you won't regret it.

  • Geography: Norway on the world map; and why it looks far bigger than it is.

    Don't get me wrong; Norway is still colossal. But when you glance at Norway on a world map, the Mercator projection throws a spanner in the works. Anything closer to the poles appears disproportionately large, while anything nearer the equator seems disproportionately small. In a nutshell, Greenland seems colossal, while the entire continent of Africa appears minuscule. For those momentarily fuzzy on the Mercator projection, here's a brief refresher: The Mercator projection is a cartographic method widely used to represent the Earth's surface on flat maps, particularly for navigation and sea charts. It's named after the Flemish cartographer Gerardus Mercator, who presented it in 1569. Norway shares its western and northern borders with the North Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. To the east, it borders Sweden, while in the northeast, it shares borders with Finland and Russia, and to the south, it neighbors Denmark. It boasts an extensive coastline along the North Sea and the Norwegian Sea, featuring deep fjords cutting through the interior. However, determining the length of this coastline is a matter of debate due to the vast number of deep fjords, islands, and inlets that characterize Norway's coast. Consequently, the coastline varies depending on the methodology. If we consider the mainland coastline, excluding fjords and inlets, it's estimated to be around 2,650 kilometers (approximately 1,650 miles). Yet, if we include the fjords and inlets, the total coastline becomes much longer, estimated at around 25,000 kilometers (about 15,500 miles). Now, you're starting to grasp the geographical complexity of the country. In fact, should you decide to drive from the southernmost point of Norway, Lindesnes, to the extreme northeastern corner of Vardø (on which I wrote an extensive piece), it would take you approximately 29 hours of continuous driving, depending on weather conditions. And this route primarily goes through Sweden and Finland. That's roughly the same distance as driving from Denver to Washington D.C. If you were to stick to Norway for the entire journey, I'd venture to guess it might take three to four times as long. So if you're planning a trip to Norway soon, it's wise to make a careful selection of what you want to see for this land is still massive, yet not as big as it seems on the map.

  • Clothes: (NSFW) I considered it nessecary to tell you about why I wear woolen underwear

    When you're at work, you might want to save this article for later, as I'm going to discuss my underwear. It could be quite awkward if your boss happens to glance over your shoulder and sees you reading an article about some random guy on the internet waxing eloquent about woolen undergarments. Nevertheless, that's precisely what we're addressing here. In fact, I considered it absolutely necessary to talk about my underwear. Let's build up the suspense by first debunking a few myths. Woolen underwear is indeed crafted from wool, but not the coarse type that makes your neck itch. Furthermore, calling it "underwear" is a bit of a misnomer. It's worn beneath your regular clothing as an additional layer that greatly reduces heat loss. Underneath that, you wear your actual underwear. Now that we've clarified all of this, allow me to briefly explain why woolen underwear is a must-have if you plan to visit Norway between October and June. I purchased my very first set about seven years ago. Autumn had just begun, and my craving for outdoor adventures was insatiable. My plan was to beat the first snowfall and embark on a mountain trek near Hovden (which, by the way, is a fantastic ski area if you're interested). It was a radiant day in early October. The cold air nipped at me as I took deep breaths through my nose. My backpack sat comfortably, neither too light nor too heavy. My shoes were well broken-in and kept warm by my woolen socks (yes, more wool). The temperature hovered around freezing, evidenced by the thin layer of frost giving the autumn foliage a whitish glow. After the first half-hour of hiking, I stood still for a moment and uttered a few euphoric words, something along the lines of "beautiful" and "happy." What I eventually muttered was, "Hmm, it's a bit chilly." You see, I was wearing a very thin hiking pants. Usually, you warm up as you walk, but when it's freezing and the wind is brisk, as it was that day, the thin fabric offers little protection against the cold. There was no alternative but to sit down in the middle of a vast open valley, take off my shoes, lower my pants, and clumsily wriggle into my woolen underwear in a Mr. Bean-like fashion. I had been overly optimistic regarding the temperature. The beauty of woolen underwear is that it warms you up immediately. There are few materials that insulate as effectively as wool. Anyway, with renewed determination and warm legs, I continued my journey—a five-hour hike to a small cabin at an elevation above 1,200 meters. Upon arrival, I just managed to have an ice-cold beer just before the sun disappeared behind a mountain ridge. The thermometer attached to the cabin read -7 degrees Celsius. Still warm from the long hike and sporting my somewhat unfashionable 1990s Dale of Norway (woolen) sweater, I felt like a king. And warm, indeed. That night, the temperature would drop to -11 degrees, making me thoroughly appreciate the wood-burning stove I had lit upon arrival. The moral of this story is surprisingly simple: invest in a set of woolen underwear. Whether you're camping, skiing, or hunting for the Northern Lights in Tromsø, you'll derive immense pleasure from warm legs and an equally toasty upper body. If I managed to convince you, or the prospect of very low temperatures during your visit to Norway managed to convince you, have a look here! A quick disclaimer: I'm writing about splendid weather in October. While it happens frequently, it's by no means guaranteed. The rain can pour down in torrents. So, always travel well-prepared ('Yes, dad').

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